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girlscoutdropout posted:How old is he? If he does start the territorial marking, remember that you will still probably have 6+ weeks of that after you get him neutered before the behaviors completely subside. I would go ahead and (s)nip in the bud, before it gets out of hand. Spraying rabbits are not one bit of fun. I was still finding pee months and months afterwards, not having any idea how pee could of ben sprayed there from my 2 unneutered males i fostered. He's um.. I think about 11 months old now. I guess I was sort of hoping this was the worst of it. Because there haven't been other pets living in this house for years and he knows the whole place is his. Then again I'd hate to find out I was wrong about this. And yesterday he lunged and bit at my hand again. I guess I'll be making that vet's appointment VERY soon now.
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Jun 5, 2008 08:59
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DS at Night posted:I guess I'll be making that vet's appointment VERY soon now. Do it. It really does make a huge and positive difference in behavior. My very first rescue rabbit was a 10lb New Zealand white named Roo. He came intact from the local shelter and since he was at that time my only rabbit and had excellent litterbox skills, I figured he'd be fine intact. Not so. He decided to become a foot rapist and constantly try to hump any feet wearing white socks. If he couldn't hump (say, you were defiantly wearing shoes), he'd chase you into a corner, circle your feet going WUFF WUFF WUFF and then start nipping at your jeans. A small surgery and recovery period later and he became much more adorable. He didn't pay any less attention to people and wasn't any less active, but now all that sexual rage was channeled into platonic love; he races across the living room and throws himself in front of you to get scritches.
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Jun 5, 2008 15:12
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I imagine I am lucky, after reading stories of foot rape, that Mo was only interested in the cat when he was intact, and he and Cowslip were into the dominance humping when they were intact as well. Got a nice picnic blanket for the buns to roam on, and now I'm hitting myself for giving away the metal build-a-storage crate bin things, because I need to fence in the new play area (past experience has taught me that Cowslip can and will squeeze around anything to eat my fish tank stands.).
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Jun 7, 2008 03:30
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I'll count myself fortunate that so far Billy's affections towards human beings have been purely platonic. There's a small stuffed Pikachu toy in his cage who will never regain his innocence though. And I very much hope I never have to touch it again.
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Jun 7, 2008 09:32
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DS at Night posted:I'll count myself fortunate that so far Billy's affections towards human beings have been purely platonic. Interesting; I left a plush bunny in Zen's pen and all she does is nudge it out of her way. Then again Zen is the pickiest creature ever. The plush obviously does not suit her tastes. :/ (My arm however. Oh lord. Zen is spayed and she still thinks a moderately upright arm is OMG MUST HUMPPPPPPPP.)
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Jun 7, 2008 16:18
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Since both of my buns were fixed before I got them, I never got to experience all this humping you guys are referring to. However, the normally anti-social Ben has taken up an adorable habit. My alarm goes off, and he races of to where he knows I dangle my hand after hitting the snooze. If petting doesn't start immediately, he'll lick my fingers for a good two minutes. It is a rather nice way to wake up.
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Jun 7, 2008 17:26
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The ambient temperature in our hallway where our rabbit plays is 80-85 degrees, this entire week is going to be pretty humid and terrible. I read somewhere that the ambient temperature should be more like 60-70 degrees. So I turned on a circular fan a few yards from her cage. Is this recommended? I don't want her to overheat.
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Jun 9, 2008 00:38
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I keep a fan on my buns, but I don't know if it's recommended. Try getting a marble or ceramic tile for him/her to lay on to stay cool. Freeze a 2 liter water bottle for her to lay next to. You can check to see if your bun is overheated by the temperature of their ears...if they feel hot, the bunny is most likely hot...same goes for cold.
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Jun 9, 2008 01:04
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This week my girlfriend and I are on a trip to her parent's, and being that our only bunny-sitter is in another city planning her wedding, we had to take them with us. While we were in the car I noticed Milly was drooling... she did it for about half an hour, then not for the rest of the trip. I've never seen her do it before and I haven't seen her do it again yet. Her eatings habits haven't changed, she chews on hard things as much as ever. I'm planning on getting her a vet appointment when we get back just to be safe. In a way it seems like nothing to worry over, but from everything I've read drooling is never anything good or OK. I'm hoping it just has something to do with the car ride (even though I've never heard of that). Wishful thinking?
GoodApollo fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jun 12, 2008 |
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Jun 12, 2008 18:40
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edit: removed
Vonbrigðum fucked around with this message at 20:23 on May 27, 2012 |
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Jun 19, 2008 04:56
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Our buns! Lola (on the left) and Mr. B (on the right) We adopted Lola first and Mr. B about 4 months after, and it took about 6 weeks to bond them. Lola is definitely the dominant bun and she will still occasionally hump Mr. B. Mr. B is a special needs bun, before we adopted him he had an EC infection so he's got some balance issues. When he tries to stand on his back legs sometimes he'll fall over backwards. It's really cute in a pathetic sort of way.
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Jun 20, 2008 13:02
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That's a really excellent photo! I'm boarding an EC bunny right now, he does the same falling-over-backwards thing. This is Gracie.  She's our new Sanctuary bunny, flown in from NC. She's a Californian, around 7 years old. Her owner adopted her five years ago and is now moving, and for some reason she couldn't take Gracie along. But she was willing to pay for vet costs and shipping fees to send her up to us. I haven't spent any time at all with her yet (got home at midnight, had to turn around and leave for work again at 630) but the girl who was fostering her in Raleigh says she ADORES that teddy bear: grooms it, cuddles with it, brings it toys... She's been alone (except for the bear) since her last partner died about 3 years ago, but she has a good history of bonding with neutered males, so I'm really hopeful that she'll bond with my old men Roo and BunBun. They're all the same size (8-10 lb range) and a trio of giant rabbits rampaging through my house would be the best thing ever.
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Jun 20, 2008 14:50
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Awww I want a bunny trio. Don't temp me, I'll be out looking for a third wheel for Portia and Ender 
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Jun 20, 2008 22:14
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Well, I don't have any pictures of Thomas, but he's my third bun. He's bonded quickly with Buster, my female, after a harrowing week where she was growling and charging at his cage. She would even get on top of his cage and pee on him, and drop smelly territory poops on his head. She stopped doing that after a few days, thankfully. They get along great now. Nobbers (My first, and my male) and Thomas haven't sorted out their dominance issues yet; They don't try to attack each other through the bars anymore, but normal humping turns to fur-flinging scuffles pretty much instantly. I'm giving them a bit more time before I start really working with them. I broke up with my boyfriend, which threw me into someone else's house. They don't like the buns running around inside because their rec room isn't properly bun-proofed (and can't be), so we set up an outdoor area for them to run in. It's a large rectangular area that's fenced in, and we have a large wooden house-thing in there they like to hide under. I put them out in the afternoon and take them in once it starts to get chilly. They're out of the sun and safe from... well, there aren't many predators around that we know of. But they're still safe from them. I was really, really nervous about it at first, was having nightmares where they escape, or something got to them, but, while I'm still a bit cautious, I've gotten over it... Oh, I also have to put their litterbox outside with them because they won't pee or poo on the dirt. :/
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Jun 21, 2008 16:04
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Bagleworm posted:Oh, I also have to put their litterbox outside with them because they won't pee or poo on the dirt. :/ Well of course not! Do you expect your buns to eat their own feces after it's been sitting on the dirty ground? 
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Jun 22, 2008 07:52
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So like I've posted before, I got 2 kittens within the last month (gotta love kitten season). They've had minimal contact with the bunnies. Jack is indifferent about them, Lucy is TERRIFIED. She stomps, she runs, she hides. I feel so bad for her. Will she ever be comfortable with them? I'm timid to let them out together because the kittens are kittens and I dont want them to try to roughhouse with the bunnies like they do with each other. Would it best to just keep them separated until they are older and then go through the introduction process or work on it while they're little? I can't wait to perhaps one day have a house with kitties and bunnies running freely together.
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Jun 22, 2008 23:06
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girlscoutdropout posted:So like I've posted before, I got 2 kittens within the last month (gotta love kitten season). They've had minimal contact with the bunnies. Jack is indifferent about them, Lucy is TERRIFIED. She stomps, she runs, she hides. I feel so bad for her. Will she ever be comfortable with them? I'm timid to let them out together because the kittens are kittens and I dont want them to try to roughhouse with the bunnies like they do with each other. Would it best to just keep them separated until they are older and then go through the introduction process or work on it while they're little? Personally, I think it is probably best to wait until the kittens outgrow most of the crazy spasmodic jumping/clawing phase at three-four months, but that could make household relations awkward, and it might actually be better to socialize them with the bunnies early so that you can establish some 'rules of conduct' with a spraybottle. If you're concerned about too much roughhousing, why not try SoftPaws? They're like a little plastic sheath that you glue onto the claw with non-toxic adhesive, and they'll fall off naturally after about two weeks. The cats can still run, climb and jump successfully, but the edges of their claws are blunted. My kitten wears them on both front and back feet; he absolutely hates having them put on (it requires two people or a kitty towel burrito) but once they're on, he ignores them. They're not too expensive either, and I believe they have a Kitten size. To help Lucy get over her fear, why not put the kittens in a cage of some kind and let Lucy sniff them through the bars? That way she can come check them out at her own pace, and they can't scare her away. You could also try putting the bunnies in the area where the kitten smells are strongest (near the litterbox, usually) and feeding them a special treat that they rarely get. I think that would help form an association between the two, and also, since rabbits learn so much from social interaction, I bet if Lucy sees Jack enjoying or tolerating the kittens, she will be curious and want to test the theory. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Jun 23, 2008 |
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Jun 23, 2008 00:02
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Is human food (or some human food, even) supremely bad for bunnies or are there some things that are okay, just not great? Zen gets really curious when I'm eating, and I've given her a nibble of rice or crackers (no meat; I have a pretty good idea of where bunnies are on the food chain) but my friend mentioned that people think a little chocolate is TOTALLY fine for a dog and it's really awful for them, so I thought I'd ask. :/ Hopefully I haven't made her sick. Zen adores a nibble of Ritz cracker, and will crawl all over my lap to try to get another taste. (It's unbearably cute, but of course I'll stop indulging her if there are real adverse effects.)
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Jun 25, 2008 00:01
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angelicism posted:Is human food (or some human food, even) supremely bad for bunnies or are there some things that are okay, just not great? Tiny little nibbles aren't going to hurt anyone. I would never give a rabbit dairy, meat, or any sort of sweet/candy. When mine beg, I let them smell what I have. Normally they don't want it and they realize they're not getting anything. Or just keep some greens around to give them if they beg, but then you get a really abnoxious rabbit 
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Jun 25, 2008 02:20
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One of mine is a chocolate fiend. Debbie once found a peanut m&m that was sitting atop my headboard(I don't even know why) and before I knew it she had eaten a quarter of it. Every day for a week, she'd run into my room and hop onto the bed looking for more. She has also tried to abscond with chocolate treats on other occasions. I can never really be too sure what is out of reach for her because she is more like a cat than a rabbit sometimes.
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Jun 25, 2008 02:29
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angelicism posted:Is human food (or some human food, even) supremely bad for bunnies or are there some things that are okay, just not great? Yeah, little nibbles won't hurt. Seconding the steering clear of meat, dairy, and sweets. My rabbits LOVE LOVE non-quick cooking oats (like Quaker). I give them a teaspoon or so every once and while (bunny approved treat given sparingly) and they go crazy for it. If your bun likes crackers, she might like the oats too.
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Jun 25, 2008 02:34
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Jack's "private area" fur gets too long and when it does, it causes him to pee all over himself (it's not a UTI). It's a pain to get clip (I actually travel an hour to get the lady I adopted him from to help me). He's good for about 6-8 weeks and then it needs to be done again. She suggested me going to a vet and getting him shaved down there (kinky, huh?) they have to put him to sleep to do it and that makes me nervous. She said it's totally worth it because it lasts like 8-9 months. Has anyone done/heard of this?
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Jun 25, 2008 02:36
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Windy posted:One of mine is a chocolate fiend. Debbie once found a peanut m&m that was sitting atop my headboard(I don't even know why) and before I knew it she had eaten a quarter of it. Every day for a week, she'd run into my room and hop onto the bed looking for more. She has also tried to abscond with chocolate treats on other occasions. I can never really be too sure what is out of reach for her because she is more like a cat than a rabbit sometimes. I definitely indulge Bowser with the occasional bites of cereal or crackers. She just wants them SO drat much... if she's not being insufferably annoying and trying to tear the food out of my hand (she's a pushy bitch!), I'll give her a bit. Before she had ever even tried any of those things, she would jump into my lap as I ate. Same goes for when I eat apples and berries, oh god... it's like a zombie bunny. BRAINS BRAINS BRAINS She's also really crazy for chocolate, which I discovered when I found her on top of the coffee table, trying to abscond with a snickers bar. She really hates being on top of anything, but if there's sweets or cereal to be had, she'd climb the Empire State building. I have a habit of keeping ziplock baggies full of wheat chex in my purse for snacking, and I ALWAYS forget to get it out until I find Bowser armpit-deep in my purse. Sigh.
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Jun 25, 2008 03:33
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girlscoutdropout posted:Jack's "private area" fur gets too long and when it does, it causes him to pee all over himself (it's not a UTI). It's a pain to get clip (I actually travel an hour to get the lady I adopted him from to help me). He's good for about 6-8 weeks and then it needs to be done again. She suggested me going to a vet and getting him shaved down there (kinky, huh?) they have to put him to sleep to do it and that makes me nervous. She said it's totally worth it because it lasts like 8-9 months. Has anyone done/heard of this? I don't see why he'd need to be anesthetized to be shaved, especially at a clinic with 4-5 people able to restrain him. If they were shaving him bald to prep for surgery, maybe, but I have two obese arthritic buns whom I clip myself. I bought a $20 pair of Wahl clippers at Target, and I use the smallest attachment (1/8" I think) so I'm sure not to pinch any skin. You definitely need one person to restrain and one to clip, and it only lasts 2-3 months. If I let it go much longer I'm once again trimming mats and cecals out of long fur, rather than doing a touch-up trim on short fur. Also, update on Gracie: I have my triple!  Together this is nearly 30lbs of rabbit. The only thing that happened when I put them together was that Gracie humped both of the boys as much as possible. They can easily get away, though - she's got to be pushing 12 lbs, she's way fatter than Roo despite having a more slender frame under her lardass, and she can't chase them for long. She can't even reach her cecals, so butt trimming is going to be a regular requirement, and unfortunately she misses the litterbox about as often as BunBun, who is twice her age.
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Jun 25, 2008 14:53
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Melicious posted:I have a habit of keeping ziplock baggies full of wheat chex in my purse for snacking, and I ALWAYS forget to get it out until I find Bowser armpit-deep in my purse. Sigh. The mental image this gave me made my giggle. I don't have any purses large enough for Zen's chubby butt to get into, but she does take some occasional paw swipes into them sometimes to see if there's anything interesting within reach. I swear sometimes she's like a cat. 
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Jun 25, 2008 15:40
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I really did not realise how much of a complete sucker I am for all Bunny-kind until I started looking through this thread... Here's our lot:  MattDamon is the ginger one doing the Hitlergruß, he is a gender-confused transvestite bunny, brought up as a boy until we took "him" for the snip. He is called that because my boyfriend knows how I can't stand his name-sake and so thought it was hysterical to have a bunny called MattDamon. He's a timid thing but with a little time, he's a complete slut about the nose scrathes and the ear rubs. McLovin' likes very much to jump on me when I least expect it as well as suddenly appearing on my rolling tray causing untold damage to my endeavours. All of this he does with his "adore me" face on.  I take a lot of photos of them and I have managed to capture them both with this rather splendid face:   We originally got MattDamon along with his brother, who also turned out to be female. Sadly some gawdawful infection arrived in our area and my darling wee Huxtable didn't survive it. He was my sweetheart and had this gorgeous white stripe running down the middle of his face over his nose, under his chin down one leg and over his paw, simply adorable! Hats off lady's and gents as I present you with, Huxtable: 
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Jun 25, 2008 21:20
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I have an Opal mini-rex named Bun-bun, Bunny, or Bunny Love depending on what I call her. She is an outdoor bun, and is currently caged. I know, I know.. She simply cannot live inside, although I do bring her in to let her run around occasionally. Thus, I am going to be building her a hutch today. The hutch is going to be outside and have a run attached to it. I wish she could live inside like all of your adorable buns but it's not my house so it's not my descion. I want her to be as comfortable as possible. Right now she lives in a 5x4 (I think) wire cage which is supported by PVC pipe and she has a mini version of our house (Stucco and all). My plans are to build the frame then staple or nail wire to the frame. I was wondering if anyone could tell me a safe wood to use. The wood will be exposed to the elements so I need something that will last. I know that treated wood is not good for the rabbit. I was thinking something like the attached picture except I will be using wire and not those fancy bars. My plan is to make the run 6x3x3 and I have not fully thought out the dimensions of the hutch. I will post some pictures later of her current house and cage and in the near future her new home. Fun story: We thought it was a "he" until we took her to get neutured and ended up getting her spayed.
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Jun 26, 2008 16:42
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munchies posted:I have an Opal mini-rex named Bun-bun, Bunny, or Bunny Love depending on what I call her. She is an outdoor bun, and is currently caged. I know, I know.. She simply cannot live inside, although I do bring her in to let her run around occasionally. Thus, I am going to be building her a hutch today. The hutch is going to be outside and have a run attached to it. I wish she could live inside like all of your adorable buns but it's not my house so it's not my descion. I want her to be as comfortable as possible. That's actually a very cute hutch...for being a hutch. Nice and big Rabbits are very hard to sex if you don't know what you're looking for. I can post pictures of how to do it if anyone is interested. Be prepared for pornographic bunny images 
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Jun 26, 2008 22:01
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walk unafraid posted:I take a lot of photos of them and I have managed to capture them both with this rather splendid face: God, rabbits with their mouths open are terrifying.
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Jun 27, 2008 15:35
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DS at Night posted:God, rabbits with their mouths open are terrifying. Nobody believed me when I told them a yawning bunny was horrifying.
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Jun 27, 2008 23:44
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I posted in another thread about my recent inheritance of a Netherland Dwarf who we named Rupa. He arrived with no vaccinations, uncastrated, and his nails hadn't ever been cut.  He's about 2 years old and he loves human company, but my boyfriend and I are going to university soon and can't take him with us, meaning that he will be left on his own for much longer. After we get him neutered and vaccinated, we're looking to get him a spayed female for company. Would it be easier if we got another Netherland Dwarf, or is the breed not too important? Also, around what age should we be looking?
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Jun 28, 2008 02:04
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Benzene posted:I posted in another thread about my recent inheritance of a Netherland Dwarf who we named Rupa. He arrived with no vaccinations, uncastrated, and his nails hadn't ever been cut. The breed is not important; whether the two potential partners like each other, is. It's best to contact a reputable rabbit rescue who can do "dates" and introductions according to HRS protocols. They'll be able to tell very quickly whether the pair will get along with little effort, or whether they will need separate cages and daily supervised interaction. I have a post way upthread that summarizes how rabbit introductions typically work, or you can check rabbit.org. Let me know your zip code and I'll let you know the HRS chapter closest to you. Another rabbit around the same age would be best. Personally I would inquire about a slightly older rabbit (3-4) - they tend to be a little more laid back, and lots more of these will be available, than younger rabbits. But again it ultimately comes down to what the rabbits want - he may bond with an 8 month old, or a 6 year old, and you should be comfortable letting him make his own choice. Remember, he needs to wait at least 30 days after his neuter to meet a potential girlfriend. It takes that long for his hormones to die down. Who is going to be caring for him once you are gone to university? That may be a factor in arranging an adoption. Most chapters will not adopt to you alone in that situation, they would want the future caretaker heavily involved in the adoption process too. This helps them make sure that both rabbits will continue to be as loved and cared for after you leave, and that the new caretaker won't suddenly be overwhelmed and decide to give them up once you're gone.
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Jun 28, 2008 04:59
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So I came home the other night after an evening of not-so-casual-drinking and I go to find my bunnies to give them a bit of petting and this is what I see: Ok fine, I know you disapprove, you don't have to show me THAT much. Neither would come out from under the bed either  .
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Jun 28, 2008 17:31
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Deceptor101 posted:So I came home the other night after an evening of not-so-casual-drinking and I go to find my bunnies to give them a bit of petting and this is what I see: Obviously next time you need to share. Don't bogart the drinks, man.
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Jun 28, 2008 20:06
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alucinor posted:Who is going to be caring for him once you are gone to university? That may be a factor in arranging an adoption. Most chapters will not adopt to you alone in that situation, they would want the future caretaker heavily involved in the adoption process too. This helps them make sure that both rabbits will continue to be as loved and cared for after you leave, and that the new caretaker won't suddenly be overwhelmed and decide to give them up once you're gone. Thanks very much for your awesome advice. With regards to who's going to be looking after him, he lives in my boyfriend's mother's house since there isn't anywhere else for him to go. He was pretty much abandoned by my boyfriend's brother. His mother cares for him pretty well and has done for months. He's allowed to run around the living room for hours daily and she's been reading up on rabbit care and diet so she seems like she'll cope. I live in England, would you still be able to give me HRS information? If so, I'd be grateful if you could send me an email at petislandemail@googlemail.com He had his myxomatosis vaccination yesterday. He was so traumatised he sat in a corner for hours.
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Jun 28, 2008 20:16
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Benzene posted:Thanks very much for your awesome advice. With regards to who's going to be looking after him, he lives in my boyfriend's mother's house since there isn't anywhere else for him to go. He was pretty much abandoned by my boyfriend's brother. His mother cares for him pretty well and has done for months. He's allowed to run around the living room for hours daily and she's been reading up on rabbit care and diet so she seems like she'll cope. Just be sure that his mom is named as the primary caretaker during the adoption process, even if right now that's technically not true, and you should be fine. The UK links to start with are: http://www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/ http://www.houserabbit.co.uk http://www.farplace.co.uk/ Any of these should be able to direct you to specific local resources.
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Jun 28, 2008 23:26
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girlscoutdropout posted:Jack's "private area" fur gets too long and when it does, it causes him to pee all over himself (it's not a UTI). It's a pain to get clip (I actually travel an hour to get the lady I adopted him from to help me). He's good for about 6-8 weeks and then it needs to be done again. She suggested me going to a vet and getting him shaved down there (kinky, huh?) they have to put him to sleep to do it and that makes me nervous. She said it's totally worth it because it lasts like 8-9 months. Has anyone done/heard of this? Don't give up on trimming him yourself. I have to trim my fluffball every two weeks or less and it's not that big of a deal. Getting the underside IS the hardest part but if you're only doing his junk I think you could do it in less than 5 minutes. If you can get him tranced it'll make things a lot easier. I just flip Lewis on his back and tuck his ears between my legs and try to brush/trim fast.
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Jul 5, 2008 20:29
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Foaming Chicken posted:Don't give up on trimming him yourself. I have to trim my fluffball every two weeks or less and it's not that big of a deal. Getting the underside IS the hardest part but if you're only doing his junk I think you could do it in less than 5 minutes. Oh yeah, Jack is the easiest bunny ever to trance out. I guess since he's finally been losing weight he's been able to clean himself thank goodness. I still need to trim him though.
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Jul 6, 2008 22:20
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I know this has been discussed before in this thread. But, there is a good chance my bunnies have fleas. I thought we got rid of all the fleas when we got our new kitten, but we've been finding 1-2 on her each day now. I just assume the other kitten has them, we just can't see them because she's dark. The kittens go in the bunny room when I feed them, and then Jack has been downstairs where the kittens are. So I bet the bunnies have fleas too. I put a 1/2 tube of Frontline on each kitten 2 weeks ago (vet advised only a 1/2 because they only weigh 2-3 pounds). I split a pack with my friend, but I can't afford right now a whole box ($50-$60) just for my kittens. I suppose my question is: Should I just wait it out, but a 4 pack of Advantage (when I can afford it) and get all the bunnies and kittens at once and spray my house? Should I not spray my house? Should I buy some flea shampoo and at least wash the kittens and spray the house? No one is seriously infested, but I also know fleas reproduce like crazy. ...stupid little insects
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Jul 7, 2008 10:23
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girlscoutdropout posted:fleas I know you are well aware of this, so I'm just repeating it for any new readers: Frontline is toxic to rabbits. That's why we're talking about Advantage, which is safe for rabbits. Revolution and ivermectin are other rabbit-safe options for parasite control. I would not spray the house, but I WOULD get some Advantage. A single tube should be more than enough for both rabbits, and the kittens will still be protected by the Frontline for a couple more weeks. If you can get your vet to sell you one tube instead of one box, it'll be significantly cheaper (like $12 or so). Check with your vet about a proper dosing schedule. I'm not sure about the kittens, but for rabbits, Advantage is safe enough to be applied every two weeks, if your vet were to recommend that. So you could dose the rabbits now and then again in 2 weeks when you re-dose the kittens. With regard to the house, my vet claims the thing to do to is vacuum frequently and clean out any bedding the animals use. She says the eggs are laid on the animal, but fall off and hatch in the habitat. Both Frontline and Advantage claim to kill adult and larval fleas, and Frontline claims to kill the eggs it contacts, so environmental cleansing helps with eggs that aren't on the animal. For the rabbits, I would throw out any unwashable bedding they currently have (carpet squares, grass mats, etc), clean any towels or washable beds, wash down the habitat in vinegar and water, and then rebuild with clean bedding. It may comfort you to know I'm dealing with this same issue. In June I boarded bunnies for a friend of mine - they were not treated, but I trusted her because a) she's a vet student, and b) I know she treats her dogs religiously.  But within 4 days we were seeing fleas in the house, and within a week they were on the other animals. We're getting ready for our second dose of Revolution this week. It takes me 4 full tubes to do the whole hoard.
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Jul 7, 2008 14:36
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