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destructo posted:CAS fix shouldn't take more than a hour and you don't even have to take the valve cover off. I'd try and lowball them, but take it anyway. If it's a 94+ you might have to deal with fixing the heater core hoses, and that's a bit of a pain. off to lowball...
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Sep 4, 2008 23:55
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Bought it. It's gonna be my runabout and fix-to-keep-running car. good: - new metal radiator - hoses in great condition - no leaks under the engine or radiator - belts in good shape - new front springs - new rotors, calipers, pads, tires all around - top in decent shape - little rust for 19 yo car. - all lights, wipers work, for inspection - shifter is really fun (not really a statement of condition) bad: - CAS leak - driver's side window regulator busted - paint in not great shape - minor dents on door and rear quarter - short nose crank pulley - clutch is on its last legs I got it for $1600, which I know isn't a great price, but is fair for Boston. Plans are to order the O-ring, give a real close inspection of that pulley and the belts, and to take a look at the drainage hole situation. I have $1000 set aside to get this thing running nicely / emergency repairs. Thanks for the response and this thread. I'll be wading through it now that I have one.
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Sep 5, 2008 03:44
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'Grats! Are you sure it's the window regulator? The console switch is well known to corrode. I had the same issue in my 1990, a bit of contact cleaner and some steel wool fixed the problem .
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Sep 5, 2008 03:58
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Heater hoses and a CAS o-ring are probably bad on 90% of the cars on the market. Parts are cheap and the job is easy. That would be on my list of required maintenance for ANY Miata I had just bought, unless I had a reciept for those items being recently replaced.
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Sep 5, 2008 04:07
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destructo posted:'Grats! Are you sure it's the window regulator? The console switch is well known to corrode. I had the same issue in my 1990, a bit of contact cleaner and some steel wool fixed the problem . It's manual windows. Maybe I'm using the wrong term? The ratchet from the window crank to the rack that the window moves on -- that's the thing that is slipping.
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Sep 5, 2008 04:10
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Miata elders, I seek your help again. When I was looking under the engine bay after morning drive, I noticed a hairline crack in the water thermoswitch, and when I poked it, it came apart:  Click here for the full 480x640 image. Is this just a casing for wiring? Or should it be replaced? I imagine it's not good for accuracy on the thermostat (which has stayed just left of the midway point). Double checking on the CAS leak:  Click here for the full 768x1024 image. Given the position of the oil under the CAS housing, seems like the right culprit, but can't be too careful. I ordered the O-ring. Should I stay off the car til then? Drive light? What is a recommended coolant? I've got some Zerex GO5 which should fit the ethylene glycol bill, but I know wisdom is to avoid mixing coolants. I'd like to top mine off and start looking for leaks. Here's a shot of what's in there now (just for color reference):  Click here for the full 480x640 image. I must say, the manual's maintenance procedures live up to the Miata's ease of maintenance reputation. Unbolt A, fill from B, rebolt A describes so many things. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 5, 2008 |
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Sep 5, 2008 16:28
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Ziploc posted:
 Specifically it's an Astina, so that picture is probably from Australia or New Zealand. Other than the fact that it came with a BP it has nothing in common with the miata. Even then the BP came in a million different cars and the one that went into the 323f is pretty different.
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Sep 5, 2008 17:09
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Chalk up another needing to repair a broken window regulator. Finishlineperformance.com (Rosenthal Mazda recommended by miata.net) sells them for $59.00 or so. I've never replaced a regulator, anyone have tips/tricks? I've seen a few guides, but I'm still not totally comfortable. Mostly because I haven't pulled it apart yet.
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Sep 5, 2008 21:01
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My top isn't doing to well these days. All these drat hurricanes and tropical storms mean that the seats get soaked and the car smells like a wet dog for a few days. 
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Sep 5, 2008 21:45
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Dominoes posted:So what? The S2000 is a better-looking car. I'm not saying it should imitate an S or any other car, but it's still a step in the right direction. i guess to each his own, i like the 1st and 2nd gen body styles more reminicent of Mgs and such i'm not a big fan of the NC or a huge fan of this one, b ut its all personal opinion. One of the things that makes these cars classics is that they havn't really changed the body styling too much over the years.
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Sep 5, 2008 23:17
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Grayham posted:My top isn't doing to well these days. All these drat hurricanes and tropical storms mean that the seats get soaked and the car smells like a wet dog for a few days. That's what the heated seats are for, drying them out when you get caught with your top down. (Or leaking.) 
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Sep 5, 2008 23:24
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kimbo305 posted:What is a recommended coolant? I've got some Zerex GO5 which should fit the ethylene glycol bill, but I know wisdom is to avoid mixing coolants. I'd like to top mine off and start looking for leaks. ordered new thermosensor and thermostat parts, but still have doubts about the coolant. I think I'd like Zerex Original Green in there, but amn't sure if that's what's in there now. If I took it in to Valvoline, do they have the means to tell me? I'd rather top off than do a full flush and drain for relatively new looking fluid.
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Sep 5, 2008 23:46
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kimbo305 posted:ordered new thermosensor and thermostat parts, but still have doubts about the coolant. I think I'd like Zerex Original Green in there, but amn't sure if that's what's in there now. If I took it in to Valvoline, do they have the means to tell me? I'd rather top off than do a full flush and drain for relatively new looking fluid. Replacing the thermostat is gonna require you drain some of the coolant. And since you'll be at it you might as well replace it so that you know its done right. I use regular Prestone coolant myself but live in the bay area where it never freezes.
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Sep 6, 2008 00:04
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FireTora posted:Replacing the thermostat is gonna require you drain some of the coolant. And since you'll be at it you might as well replace it so that you know its done right. I use regular Prestone coolant myself but live in the bay area where it never freezes. Yeah you're right, I can't ever bring myself to halfass anything. I guess I'll self prescribe a couple cycles of drain and top with distilled water, and then fill appropriately with coolant. Some hippies better not see me hurting the environment if I spill something.
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Sep 6, 2008 00:18
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Have been perusing the Miata thread the past few days because of the possibility of today. In just four hours, I am going to go look at a '94 Miata that my boyfriend's friend owns. It's pretty much a done deal, we just want to go over it with the proverbial fine-tooth comb to make sure there's nothing that would leave me stranded on the side of the road and that we'd have to sink more money into over the next few months. I'm so excited! I've wanted a Miata ever since my aunt & uncle got their '92. I should add that they bought theirs new off the lot, so I've been wanting this for a long time... Wish me luck; I'm hoping I can drive it home today. I'll be sure to post pics to show off!
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Sep 7, 2008 15:51
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I mentioned a little while back that I'm looking for a Miata for as little as possible. I checked out this one and it's a complete mess. You may notice the stick on portholes. I don't want to get into working on that because the car is pretty much destroyed/riced. http://toledo.craigslist.org/cto/821311887.html This one is slightly closer (I live in Medina county in Ohio, so this is still about 2 1/2 hours away) and looks to be in much better shape that the previous one. This brings up a question. What year was best for NA Miatas? Also, in the way of suspension and a roll bar, how does this look? I don't have a car yet, but I like to know what I'm getting into when it comes to suspension work and such.  GoMiata.com shopping cart It'll be a daily driver unless I'm working on it/dont feel like looking homosexual, and a pretty frequent track and autocross car. I imagine it will eventually be turboed, but for now I'd like to be able to push it as far as it will go before I give it more power. Are there any parts that will be better cost/performance? Also, better place to buy than GoMiata? Note that the brake pads would be likely going on with new rotors, flex hoses and calipers if they're needed, and that the first thing that'll be done to a new car will be timing belt, hoses, etc. I'd prefer to not half-rear end anything. Edit: Are shock tower braces advantageous on Miatas? Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Sep 7, 2008 |
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Sep 7, 2008 16:57
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RubySprinkles posted:Have been perusing the Miata thread the past few days because of the possibility of today. In just four hours, I am going to go look at a '94 Miata that my boyfriend's friend owns. It's pretty much a done deal, we just want to go over it with the proverbial fine-tooth comb to make sure there's nothing that would leave me stranded on the side of the road and that we'd have to sink more money into over the next few months. I'm so excited! I've wanted a Miata ever since my aunt & uncle got their '92. I should add that they bought theirs new off the lot, so I've been wanting this for a long time... MY BOYFRIEND. Jeez, you're not the only one here with a boyfriend. Problem areas: CAS O-ring and worn balljoint boots. Miatas are quite dead reliable and simple, so you should be alright with a 94.
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Sep 7, 2008 17:00
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Hypnolobster posted:
Do not get Tokico Blues/HP's. They suck. I wouldn't suggest the eibachs either. gomiata.com, flyinmiata.com, 949racing.com, miataturbo.net, miata.net, miataroadster.com, racingbeat.com, miatamania.com, trackdogracing.com and those are just the ones i keep bookmarked... "Best" is subjective. Anything past 91 didn't have the short nose 1.6l's. 94 was the lightest of all the 1.8ls. 96 got a small bump in power from obdii. If you really want to get into it - http://www.amazon.com/Mazda-MX-5-Mi...20803755&sr=1-9 - goes into waaay more trivia than I care for. and one more - http://www.bethania-garage.com/ - go directly to the source for the hardcore rollbars. they list options there that gomiata misses. iscariot fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Sep 7, 2008 |
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Sep 7, 2008 17:06
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How about KYB AGX shocks instead? They're considerably more expensive, but I seem to be finding nothing but good things said about them. Any guidance on springs? I'm mostly seeing H&R and Racing Beat springs. FlyinMiata seems to have their own special springs that they don't say much about. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Sep 7, 2008 |
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Sep 7, 2008 17:20
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What's people's opinion on windblockers? Do they work? Is it worth making my own?
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Sep 7, 2008 17:25
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kimbo305 posted:What's people's opinion on windblockers? Do they work? Is it worth making my own? I do not like the self made Plexiglas ones at all. They look ridiculous and do not have the same effect as the real ones. You can get them for not too much money used, look around on ebay etc. But yes, they do keep the wind out of your hair and away from your neck and back. I love being able to drive on the autobahn for two hours even when its cold outside without getting a stiff neck.
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Sep 7, 2008 17:31
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Hypnolobster posted:How about KYB AGX shocks instead? They're considerably more expensive, but I seem to be finding nothing but good things said about them. The flyinmiata springs are great for daily driving if you max out the AGXs. They aren't ideal if it's a track car but they do firm it up a good bit. I'd really consider them the best springs to go with if you aren't getting coilovers.
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Sep 7, 2008 18:13
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w_hat posted:The flyinmiata springs are great for daily driving if you max out the AGXs. They aren't ideal if it's a track car but they do firm it up a good bit. I'd really consider them the best springs to go with if you aren't getting coilovers. Would it be worth it do just go straight to coilovers instead?
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Sep 7, 2008 18:34
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w_hat posted:The flyinmiata springs are great for daily driving if you max out the AGXs. They aren't ideal if it's a track car but they do firm it up a good bit. I'd really consider them the best springs to go with if you aren't getting coilovers. This is the exact setup I'm running. It works quite well. When I was looking I found brand new AGX's on eBay for much less than anywhere else.
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Sep 7, 2008 21:45
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I'm running racing beat street springs and tokico illuminas. They're fine by me. One word on ebay specials - tokico has a bug up their rear end about authorized vendors, and have denied warranties based on ebay purchases. Dunno about KYB, but its something to keep in mind. And this probably goes into the far corner of "awesome setup" but if you're considering coilovers, then you're probably going to want bushings. miataroadster and a few others are offering full Energy Suspension bushing kits, run about $240 iirc for the complete setup.
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Sep 8, 2008 04:29
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Phone posted:MY BOYFRIEND. Jeez, you're not the only one here with a boyfriend. Didn't mean to imply anything other than I knew the person I was dealing with... Got the Miata home. Am going to have to clean it up, is a little dusty from not being driven. (I know, why would any one let a Miata sit?) Going to get the title/registration in the works on Monday. There are a couple cosmetic things that I want to eventually have done/do. The passenger seat needs to be replaced (battery acid ate through it). The vinyl top needs to be replaced at some point (the clear vinyl back window part is discolored). Other than that, it's great! Ran great!
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Sep 8, 2008 05:06
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Before replacing the top for just the rear window - Meguiars's Plastic Polish and Cleaner do a pretty good job. Definitely worth trying for $20 vs. $450 http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+M1708
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Sep 8, 2008 05:24
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RubySprinkles posted:Didn't mean to imply anything other than I knew the person I was dealing with...
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Sep 8, 2008 06:36
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joey deere posted:He wasn't being serious, it's an old catchphrase. 
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Sep 8, 2008 07:02
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So I bought myself an '05 Limited (NC heathen) with the 6 speed Activematic paddle shift transmission.   Just playin', it's a 6 speed manual with the LSD, sports suspension and front strut brace, but no traction or stability control. Had 19,500 km (that's 12,000 miles for you imperialist swines) when I bought it, exterior and interior looks pretty much perfect, only problem is a few scratches on the shifter from a ring or something. Previous owner had the Mazda alarm installed, and according to the service records the dealership charged him almost $1300 (AUD). Ouch. bear scrylls fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Sep 8, 2008 |
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Sep 8, 2008 07:29
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I don't care what anyone says, having driven my dad's NC (6speed and LSD as well, but a PRHT), I love them every bit as much as my NA. I like working on my NA more though. I wish I had a garage, it's too drat hot to be poking around in the sun lately.
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Sep 8, 2008 08:01
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Hypnolobster posted:This brings up a question. What year was best for NA Miatas? It depends on what you're looking to do with the car. If you want to turbocharge it, you usually want a '94-'95 - OBDI computer, 1.8L engine. If you don't care about that but want the upgrades, you usually go for a '95+. The early '90-'91 cars do have the short nose crank issue but it's not a big deal if you make sure to be careful about it when you do your timing belt. In other news, today I had the fun of replacing a wheel lug on the front of the '99, and changing the oil in it. The job that I figured would be a pain wasn't (the lug) and the job I figured would be easy (seeing as I've done it now...10 times on this car) ended up being an all-day ordeal because my goddamn filter wrench failed. One of those lovely plastic end-cap style ones, the square drive wore out and failed.
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Sep 8, 2008 08:01
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Great looking car Joey. I had always wanted one of the limiteds. The interior perks look great on it, and should be an option on all trims. It's actualy an '06, not an '05. I didn't know they made them in any color than Velocity Red, but GG is definitely one of the best-looking colors.
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Sep 8, 2008 |
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Sep 8, 2008 15:46
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RubySprinkles posted:Didn't mean to imply anything other than I knew the person I was dealing with... Another couple things to keep an eye on: Hoses, when was the last Timing Belt / Water pump change done, and does the clutch slave cylinder leak yet? The hoses, if they've not been changed, like any car will get old, brittle and crack. If the timing belt/water pump has not been done recently (you didn't mention the mileage on the car) it may be due. You should go ahead and do everything at once to save yourself the trouble. Everything = timing belt, tension pulleys, water pump, hoses, accessory belts, front main seal, cam seals, CAS O-Ring, cam cover gasket, coolant flush and fill. Sounds like a lot, but doing all that doesn't really add that much time to the timing belt job on it's own. Also, as I mentioned, clutch slave cylinder. They tend to start leaking. Easy fix, but just keep an eye on it...
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Sep 8, 2008 17:41
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bladernr posted:front main seal, cam seals, clutch slave cylinder. Where are these in the car, roughly? I got a CAS O-ring, but not a CAS gasket, since the online instructions avoid having to open that part of the CAS housing. Is that usually ok?
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Sep 8, 2008 19:11
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kimbo305 posted:Where are these in the car, roughly? The front main seal is the seal at the front of the crankshaft right behind the main pulley. The cam seals are at the front of the cams just underneath the front of the valve cover. The slave cylinder is on the drivers side top portion of the transmission. The CAS o-ring is the only seal for that that needs replacing.
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Sep 8, 2008 19:31
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PancakeTransmission posted:Plus, being the MIATA MEGATHREAD, I think there was another joke in there! I caught that after I posted. iscariot posted:Before replacing the top for just the rear window - Meguiars's Plastic Polish and Cleaner do a pretty good job. Definitely worth trying for $20 vs. $450 I'm going to order a bottle. Thanks for the recommendation!
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Sep 9, 2008 03:51
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bladernr posted:Another couple things to keep an eye on: Hoses, when was the last Timing Belt / Water pump change done, and does the clutch slave cylinder leak yet? Just saw this reply to my earlier post, would have combined it all into one post if I had caught it. I'll have to check, or just go ahead and change the hoses/timing belt/water pump just so that I know that it's been done (and so that I can say that I did it). It's at roughly 77,000 miles. The clutch slave cylinder is not leaking, but I'll definitely keep an eye on it; thanks for the heads-up!
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Sep 9, 2008 04:13
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Dominoes posted:Great looking car Joey. I had always wanted one of the limiteds. The interior perks look great on it, and should be an option on all trims. It's actualy an '06, not an '05. I didn't know they made them in any color than Velocity Red, but GG is definitely one of the best-looking colors. bear scrylls fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Sep 9, 2008 |
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Sep 9, 2008 08:32
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Of what diameter should the centering pin for reassembling the cluth be ? One side should fit into the pilot bearing and the other into the throw out bearing, right ?
duep fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Sep 9, 2008 |
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Sep 9, 2008 13:03
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