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I just got a used '94 miata, and it has only one problem: the AC drips heavily on the passenger side, from underneath the dash into the passenger's foot area. At first I just ignored it, but it actually drips pretty heavily, and is able to completely soak a towel in about an hour. Anyone have a similar problem that they've fixed?
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Sep 9, 2008 19:29
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That'd be the heater core. I've never done it on a miata and I'm sure it's a bitch. EDIT: VVV Out of curiosity, how bad is the heater core replacement job on a Miata? Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Sep 10, 2008 |
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Sep 9, 2008 20:18
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Hypnolobster posted:That'd be the heater core. I've never done it on a miata and I'm sure it's a bitch. Not necessarily. If its the A/C only, its the evaporator drain hose, it should be connected to the evap core casing and go out through the firewall nearby. Its likely plugged, broken, or disconnected. Miata heater cores leak coolant, not just water if that is what problem Celot is having.
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Sep 9, 2008 20:25
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Baby Hitler posted:Not necessarily. If its the A/C only, its the evaporator drain hose, it should be connected to the evap core casing and go out through the firewall nearby. Its likely plugged, broken, or disconnected. Miata heater cores leak coolant, not just water if that is what problem Celot is having. Also, while it's quite obvious, it should be stated that this car is not suited for Khanacross!  While I've seen many tracks that are simply flat and unsealed, this was a very beaten path and i would have loved SOFT ROAD suspension. Plus, while wearing a helmet, I hit my head on the hardtop on all but the smallest bumps. PancakeTransmission fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Sep 9, 2008 |
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Sep 9, 2008 21:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:It depends on what you're looking to do with the car. If you want to turbocharge it, you usually want a '94-'95 - OBDI computer, 1.8L engine. If you don't care about that but want the upgrades, you usually go for a '95+. The early '90-'91 cars do have the short nose crank issue but it's not a big deal if you make sure to be careful about it when you do your timing belt. Well, I'll be DDing it, and tracking it as often as possible. Eventually it will probably be turbocharged, provided something terrible doesn't happen to it on a track, but that would be at least a year after I buy a car. For the time being the goal is to get better mileage, have fun with something that's a little more taught and fun than a rusty Grand Marquis and learn as much as possible on a track. I think I should be looking for a 94. 1.8 engine, OBD-I, light (though not as light as the previous cars) and it should keep me satisfied longer before a turbo seems necessary for fun on a track. Is my logic flawed at all? Also, can anyone explain what exactly the facelift was in 94? It seems to be very subtle.
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Sep 10, 2008 15:22
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Hypnolobster posted:Is my logic flawed at all? Also, can anyone explain what exactly the facelift was in 94? It seems to be very subtle. There wasn't one. Might I suggest trying a season of autocross before tracking the car? Tracking is pretty hard on a DD.
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Sep 10, 2008 16:12
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http://www.miata.net/faq/miatachanges.html That's what I was going by, and it mentions a facelift, though I can't tell any change. I should restate that as "tracking it as often as reasonable" rather than possible. I'll try to get to every autocross I can, and once I'm comfortable in the car I'll take it nelson ledges in Ohio from time to time with friends, so it would probably only end up doing 5-6 laps in a day after rides in friends cars, etc. I imagine I would be burning through brakepads, tires and beyond that just general wear on a track, right?
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Sep 10, 2008 16:18
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Ziploc posted:There wasn't one. Alloy Wheels changed shape.
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Sep 10, 2008 16:20
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ChiliMac posted:Alloy Wheels changed shape. That has nothing to do with the face.  They probably did some interior changes too.
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Sep 10, 2008 16:24
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Hypnolobster posted:Also, can anyone explain what exactly the facelift was in 94? It seems to be very subtle. They changed the dash, its built a lot more solidly. There's a passenger air bag. They added the toilet seat logo to the front bumper. The door panels are a bit different. Slightly larger front brakes and as said before the wheels. But I wouldn't call it a facelift.
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Sep 10, 2008 16:28
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We just recently (a few weeks ago) purchased a 2008 Stormy Blue GT PRHT (So we have the Bose sound system). I've been looking into the various options for iPod links... Obviously I don't like the official Mazda link because it doesn't allow control from the iPod. The one thing that irks me about the Audio Link connection is that choosing the iPod input is apparently done by selecting "CD" multiple times. We have these unused SAT and MEDIA buttons--I'd rather select "MEDIA" to get to the iPod! Apparently there is another iPod link from a company called Axxess, but I'm having difficulty finding any real reviews/user reports about the product online. The company's web site doesn't give me any more confidence in their legitimacy The instructions, however, seem to indicate that the Axxess iPod link connects through the port intended for an MD player, which would mean selecting the iPod input would be done by pressing the "MEDIA" button, as I would want. I'm a little bit concerned that The RPM Store seems to think that the Axxess iPod link doesn't work with iPod touch/iPhone. I'm wondering if this is an indication that the Axxess iPod link is using one of the older iPod protocols and thus might not be compatible with future iPods. Has anyone tried the Axxess iPod Link? How well does it work? Is there some other way I could get the more tried-and-true Audio Link to come up by pressing one of my unused head unit buttons?
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Sep 12, 2008 06:28
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Has anyone got a picture or several pictures of an NA/NB totally stripped down, ie everything removed that can be. Doors, interior, trunk, hood, roof, bumpers, everything. I've been looking around but couldn't find anything. Also, how structural is the A-pillar? What would happen if you removed the windshield and cut off both a-pillars at door level?
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Sep 12, 2008 19:03
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Slothophile posted:Has anyone got a picture or several pictures of an NA/NB totally stripped down, ie everything removed that can be. Doors, interior, trunk, hood, roof, bumpers, everything. I would imagine that you would lose a ton of chassis rigidity if you lopped the whole A-pillars off. I don't know how integral to the structure of the car they are, though. I imagine not very, but I'm no automotive engineer so don't take my word for it.
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Sep 12, 2008 19:05
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Slothophile posted:Has anyone got a picture or several pictures of an NA/NB totally stripped down, ie everything removed that can be. Doors, interior, trunk, hood, roof, bumpers, everything. https://www.targamiata.com Bunch of photos of an NA unibody on a roller with *nothing* attached to it.
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Sep 12, 2008 19:09
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Savington posted:https://www.targamiata.com Perfect.
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Sep 12, 2008 19:19
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I think my clutch throw out bearing is going bad. When I push in the clutch there is a slight grinding sound... releasing the pedal makes it go away. I can only hear it when starting off from a stop or if i am sitting stopped, clutch in, and put it in gear. It happened a few times, went away, but is now back. If it is the throw out bearing I might as well change the clutch (95,000 miles on the factory clutch), etc. Maybe even the flywheel. Here are my options: 1) $100 - buy decent quality aftermarket replacement http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16410&cat=320&page=1 2) $200 - use OE parts http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16869&cat=320&page=1 3) either 1 or 2 plus $340 for a 8lb Fidanza aluminum flywheel http://www.949racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=74&HS=1 4) $350 - upgraded clutch made for 1.6L miatas (Spec stage 2) plus $340 for 7lb Fidanza aluminum flywheel. This setup would weigh about 17 lb vs the stock 30 lb setup. http://www.949racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=75 http://www.949racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=74&HS=1 Do you think this is the throw out bearing? If not, what else could it be? If it is and I should change out the parts, which of the above options do you like best?
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Sep 14, 2008 05:10
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Well, my '94 Miata won't start. My roommate thinks it might be because of a puddle I drove through about a month ago. McGee street floods really terribly, and I drove through perhaps a 40 foot section of water that was above the bottom of my door. I think it is just because I left my parking lights on overnight and the battery is dead. In any case, I tried jump starting, and this didn't help. The engine doesn't even try to turn, and the headlights/instrument panel do not light up. I went to Autozone and they said it might be the fuses or starter. what steps should I take to diagnose the problem? Should I start by looking at the fuses? Could the battery be totally hosed? What order should I check my poo poo? Do I need a multimeter? Thanks Celot fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Sep 15, 2008 |
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Sep 14, 2008 20:39
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Well i figured I should post here seeing as I picked up a miata recently. The best thing about it so far is that the engines a hell of a lot easier to work on then my MK1 MR2 was. I managed to pick up a white '93 with ~180k for $2,000. It has a custom leather interior, which is red although its not too obnoxious and the seats are really comfy, a bunch of lovely schucks interior mods which were promptly removed and the soft top is in pretty good shape. Well shortly after I bought it, I realized why it was so cheap, the guy was a idiot and dumped a ton of the radiator stop leak into the engine to try to fix a leak. Well the leak was coming from a rusted out freeze plug, and thanks to me trying to clean the coolant system, it started spurting water everywhere. Luckily its the front one just under the header, so it was a pretty easy fix. I also had to replace the upper radiator hose, one of the heater core hoses, thermostat and radiator cap, but its running like a champ now. I am pretty happy with it, although it can really touch my old mr2 that it replaced after a Mercedes Sprinter van decided that he didn't have to stop at the red light I was stopped at and hit me doing about 35mph. Hopefully I'll get around to doing some more work to it soon. Its begging for new suspension, especially after my MR2 it feels pretty soft.
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Sep 14, 2008 21:39
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1993's have a special edition which has a red leather interior. Potentially "congrats".
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Sep 15, 2008 00:47
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Phone posted:1993's have a special edition which has a red leather interior. Potentially "congrats". Why don't most manufacturers offer this, and other similar options standard? I think my car would look cooler with red-trimmed seats. (like in the Limited) I want to see a manufacturer go balls-out and not hold back anything in the name of being conservative. Just like I want to see a 260hp turbocharged miata stock that looks evil and has a tight suspension and no wheelwell gap. But it will never happen. For some reason. gently caress.
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Sep 15, 2008 04:02
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Anyone done a manual window regulator replacement? I plan to go by the instructions here: http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/windows/index.htm (which seems to be going in and out of 404 for some reason) Any additional tips / hazards?
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Sep 15, 2008 17:59
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Negromancer posted:Well i figured I should post here seeing as I picked up a miata recently. The best thing about it so far is that the engines a hell of a lot easier to work on then my MK1 MR2 was. I managed to pick up a white '93 with ~180k for $2,000. It has a custom leather interior, which is red although its not too obnoxious and the seats are really comfy, a bunch of lovely schucks interior mods which were promptly removed and the soft top is in pretty good shape. Well shortly after I bought it, I realized why it was so cheap, the guy was a idiot and dumped a ton of the radiator stop leak into the engine to try to fix a leak. Well the leak was coming from a rusted out freeze plug, and thanks to me trying to clean the coolant system, it started spurting water everywhere. Luckily its the front one just under the header, so it was a pretty easy fix. I also had to replace the upper radiator hose, one of the heater core hoses, thermostat and radiator cap, but its running like a champ now. I am pretty happy with it, although it can really touch my old mr2 that it replaced after a Mercedes Sprinter van decided that he didn't have to stop at the red light I was stopped at and hit me doing about 35mph. Hopefully I'll get around to doing some more work to it soon. Its begging for new suspension, especially after my MR2 it feels pretty soft. That is good you are working to fix the cooling system, but you are probably going to need to change everything, heater core and water pump included. If I was buying a Miata, every one of those little hoses would be changed, they aren't particularly well molded and do a lot more work than a 1/4" hose should do.
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Sep 15, 2008 18:12
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well, no one else has said anything yet...XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:1) $100 - buy decent quality aftermarket replacement http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16410&cat=320&page=1 quote:2) $200 - use OE parts http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16869&cat=320&page=1 quote:3) either 1 or 2 plus $340 for a 8lb Fidanza aluminum flywheel http://www.949racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=74&HS=1 quote:4) $350 - upgraded clutch made for 1.6L miatas (Spec stage 2) plus $340 for 7lb Fidanza aluminum flywheel. This setup would weigh about 17 lb vs the stock 30 lb setup. http://www.949racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=75 Also, since you're already in for this, just get the 100.00 finish line clutch, but get it in 1.8L, and get the 1.8L lightweight flywheel... more clutch for your buck, and that's a direct drop in (provided you also use 1.8L pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearings, which come in the kit). quote:Do you think this is the throw out bearing? If not, what else could it be? If it is and I should change out the parts, which of the above options do you like best? Another thing, while you're in there doing the clutch, have them replace the rear main seal... you can get the seal for about 15 bucks from autozone or advance, 20-30 from the dealer, and since they're already going to have the back of the engine free, it's small change to swap the seals out. AND go ahead and flush and fill the tranny with MTL... I've finally finished mine for a while... MTL in the tranny and turret, 75w-90 Redline in the diff, new clutch, shaved the flywheel. I am much happier now that she's not making any obnoxious grating noises...
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Sep 15, 2008 22:11
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Phone posted:1993's have a special edition which has a red leather interior. Potentially "congrats". I thought the same thing, but its definitely after market. I may be wrong, but I was under the impression that the SE model was the top of the line with power windows/door locks/steering, and AC, which mine has none of those features. I am actually really happy with the bottom of the line model, less poo poo to break. Now I just need to track down a hardtop... Baby Hitler posted:That is good you are working to fix the cooling system, but you are probably going to need to change everything, heater core and water pump included. If I was buying a Miata, every one of those little hoses would be changed, they aren't particularly well molded and do a lot more work than a 1/4" hose should do. I have pretty much replaced all the hoses and such, but I am going to try my best to not replace the water pump, as I was told it was done recently along with the timing belt. I am 90% sure I have got all the coolant issues tracked down and fixed at this time. All that seems to be leaking a little nit is the rubber freeze plug I put in, although thats gonna get replaced with a proper brass one soon. The other nice thing is it has a new radiator, that actually has metal end caps. I am not too concerned about the engine thats in it, as long as it lasts me long enough to build up a 1.8 with a turbo I will be happy. Also, depending on this election, I may be moving up my plans to move to New Zealand, so then I'll have to get rid of it anyways. slurry_curry fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Sep 17, 2008 |
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Sep 16, 2008 19:32
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Phone posted:1993's have a special edition which has a red leather interior. Potentially "congrats". All the 93 SEs were Black with red leather interior and the BBS wheels.
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Sep 16, 2008 19:42
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Hypnolobster posted:I imagine I would be burning through brakepads, tires and beyond that just general wear on a track, right? Guinness posted:I would imagine that you would lose a ton of chassis rigidity if you lopped the whole A-pillars off. 
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Sep 16, 2008 21:40
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Vitamin J posted:The A pillar is just there to provide rollover protection and a windshield frame: What class are those? And which car is generally the higher class, RX-7 or Miata?
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Sep 16, 2008 21:53
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Those are both EP cars. Classing is very complicated and both cars can be competetive against eachother in many different classes. Back when the RX7 and Miata were new, the RX7 would be in a higher class because of its more powerful engine and larger stock tires, though thats not to say it would be faster.
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Sep 17, 2008 03:40
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I am trying to get hold of a mystery noise and would like to disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox, so I can see if the bansheelike screaming stops. Can I reach the connector when I remove the center console or do I have to jack the car up and disconnect it from below ?
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Sep 18, 2008 21:13
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duep posted:I am trying to get hold of a mystery noise and would like to disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox, so I can see if the bansheelike screaming stops. Can I reach the connector when I remove the center console or do I have to jack the car up and disconnect it from below ? If its the same as the 2nd gen RX-7 then its just screwed onto the transmission side and you need to get it from under the car. If the other end is an option the gauge surroun on the NA just pulles forward and pops off. I think there might be 2 screws on the bottom. but can't recall even though i took it off like 2 weeks ago.
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Sep 18, 2008 22:01
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Good news first: I managed to replace my flyweel bearing and the noise is gone. Bad news: I managed to break one of the bolts mounting the transmisson onto the clutch casing. Any suggestions how to get whats left of it out of the socket without drilling ?
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Sep 19, 2008 16:40
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duep posted:Good news first: I managed to replace my flyweel bearing and the noise is gone. The correct way: Get a screw extractor... you DO have to drill a pilot hole into the broken bolt shaft, but then you just screw this thing into it, and as you do so you back the broken shaft out. The cheap way, that may work, or may not if it's a high grade bolt: take a cheap phillips screwdriver and hammer it into the end of the broken shaft, then just unscrew. I've used both methods before. The cheap screwdriver method works well, as long as the bolt isnt frozen in place. I'm assuming here that you broke it by torquing it down too tight, so it should just come right out. If it's frozen, you'll get better results by spraying it a few times with WD-40, or some other penetrating oil, letting that soak for a bit between applications, then pulling it with an extractor...
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Sep 19, 2008 16:54
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kimbo305 posted:Anyone done a manual window regulator replacement? I plan to go by the instructions here: http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/windows/index.htm (which seems to be going in and out of 404 for some reason) This is for my 1995 miata. I just replaced my driver side regulator yesterday. I was a bit nervous at first but I just decided to do it and get it over with. You'll need 10mm and 14mm sockets. Removing the trim piece on top of the window isn't difficult, just be gentle and pry up on the outside lip till you can see a little plastic tab. Push the tab, and then move to the next one. My door had 5 of them. Once they are all released it'll pop right out. Next remove your door panel. After that remove the plastic sheet from the door (to take it completely off, remove the 3 screws holding the door handle and pull it through). Next take a sharpie marker and mark the holes securing the window stops (1 10mm bolt for each) and regulator crank area (3 10mm nuts) Then basically crank the window up to where you can access the 3 screws holding the window to the regulator. Gently pull the window out and set somewhere safe. Pull the 4 14mm nuts holding the regulator in to the door (2 in the upper door, 2 under the door) and the 3 10mm nuts from the crank area. Then push the plastic tabs in with a pair of needle nose pliers. I had to remove the 10mm bolt holding the a pillar window in the door area so I could gently bend it out of the way so I could wiggle the crank out of the door. It really wasn't that difficult. All I can say is that the window rolls up and down like butter now. It's so incredibly smooth that I'm simply amazed. No more 2 hands on the crank trying to roll the drat thing up (even when I greased it). Oh, when re-installing the window, make sure that you get the window into the a-pillar weatherstrip. I first installed it and it was riding on the outside of the strip. When you put the window in the weather strip it should snugly fit into the window track also. Then gently let the window down onto the regulator that you've since replaced. There is a plastic hook on the window that will catch on the regulator. Simply align the holes and put the 3 screws back in. Then re-assemble.
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Sep 19, 2008 17:08
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I have a new disconcerting noise coming from my front passenger corner that wasn't there when i drove it on monday. Its sounds kinda like the tire is rubbing when i go over decent size bumps. I will be very unhappy if the shock is blow... Gonna jack it up when I get home and see if there's anything obvious. Edit: Looks like it may just be the tire, it seems to have leaked much air so I get to search for foreign objects later. vv I didn't say it was rubbing, I said it sounded like it. Also my car is lowered a lot. FireTora fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 19, 2008 |
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Sep 19, 2008 18:54
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FireTora posted:I have a new disconcerting noise coming from my front passenger corner that wasn't there when i drove it on monday. Its sounds kinda like the tire is rubbing when i go over decent size bumps. I will be very unhappy if the shock is blow... Gonna jack it up when I get home and see if there's anything obvious. If it is a tire rubbing it shouldn't occur because your shock is blown. Even at max compression your tire should never hit the inner fender.
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Sep 19, 2008 20:07
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Figured out the noise was my bushings, I fixed it by driving the car hard for 30 minutes. No more weird noises.
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Sep 21, 2008 23:11
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FireTora posted:Figured out the noise was my bushings, I fixed it by driving the car hard for 30 minutes. No more weird noises. Ah yes, the old Italian tune up.
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Sep 22, 2008 00:44
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And that is why I beat the gently caress out of my Miata every time I drive it... I think it likes it best that way.
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Sep 22, 2008 02:48
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Schwack posted:And that is why I beat the gently caress out of my Miata every time I drive it... I think it likes it best that way. I know I like it best that way, its fun to drive then and doesn't make me want a faster car quite as much.
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Sep 22, 2008 03:15
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How do I adjust the latches on my hard top? The front right and front side latches refuse to stay closed if I have the soft top latches down when I put the hard top on. If I leave the soft latches up, so they don't touch the hard top's latch restrainer things, then they'll stay shut, but that adds yet another rattle to an already rattley cabin.
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Sep 22, 2008 03:38
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