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Pull down the piece that's hiding a long looking nut. Screw that in/out to adjust how tight the latch is. Plastic piece pulls down.
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Sep 22, 2008 03:40
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^^^I have no idea how I missed this.mobn posted:How do I adjust the latches on my hard top? The front right and front side latches refuse to stay closed if I have the soft top latches down when I put the hard top on. If I leave the soft latches up, so they don't touch the hard top's latch restrainer things, then they'll stay shut, but that adds yet another rattle to an already rattley cabin. Flip the latches down, and you'll see a little barrel nut surrounded by a plastic piece. The piece levers forward, and you can adjust the nut. Then you put the piece back and check to see if the adjustment helped. It's just like the soft-top, unless you're talking about an NC, in which case I have no idea and I've just wasted your time.
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Sep 22, 2008 12:56
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Now I seem to have run into a serious problem, my cooler blew up... I noticed, after driving on the Autobahn for one hour, that within one minute the temperature went up from the "normal" level to very-very-hot to the-needle-doesn't-go-any-further-than-that within one minute. I stopped immediately, and when I opened the hood I was blasted with evaporating cooling liquid. The connector, where the hose comes in from the engine, had a hairline crack. After waiting for quite a few minutes I filled the cooler with water I had with me and tried to start again, but was only able to do so with full throttle. So I had to get a friend of mine tow me to my dorm. Now it feels like I have lost compression, and I suspect I blew the head gasket? I ordered a new cooler already, but I will only be able to really diagnose the engine once I get my tools from home... e: talking about the radiator Mo Hawk fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Sep 22, 2008 |
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Sep 22, 2008 18:11
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Do you mean radiator or water pump?
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Sep 22, 2008 18:19
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Is this miata a good deal? I'm going to be checking it out later today. 1992 miata 5 speed with 100k miles $4000 http://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/849286168.html
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Sep 22, 2008 18:25
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Looks decent. You should be able to knock at least 500 dollars off of it. Push it hard and ask for documentation. Check out the softtop; I wish I did on my old 96, it had the hardtop and a nice big rip along the window for the softtop. If there's a decent shop around you, get a pre-purchase done. vv - SUCK IT UP, RETARD Phone fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Sep 22, 2008 |
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Sep 22, 2008 18:32
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^^ That's the second time today this has happened. > : (kaiory posted:Is this miata a good deal? I'm going to be checking it out later today. 1992 miata 5 speed with 100k miles $4000 It looks to be in amazing cosmetic shape. Be sure to check the softtop as well; I got a hardtop for mine because the softtop tore. That hardtop may have come stock (it's the right color), but it might not. Also check for service records etc... And try to talk him down to $3500 or so; mention winter's coming, and that sort of limits what you can do (without snow tires). If you feel like it, try to factor that cost in, too.
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Sep 22, 2008 18:33
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You're not going to get $3500 if it's in good condition. I bet someone bought it already. Hell, I could easily resell my '90 with hardtop for $5k
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Sep 22, 2008 18:51
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Anyone have any experiences with the Koni STR.T dampers that came out recently? They're in the Tokico HP/Blue class for pricing but are supposed to ride like Koni Yellows at full soft with a wee bit of additional rebound dampening.
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Sep 22, 2008 21:47
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I've got a 99 with 2 tears in my softtop. I don't have the money to get my top replaced now, and I was looking for a quick fix. Does anyone have any idea? The holes are about the size of a quarter.
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Sep 22, 2008 23:36
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BusinessWallet posted:I've got a 99 with 2 tears in my softtop. I don't have the money to get my top replaced now, and I was looking for a quick fix. Does anyone have any idea? The holes are about the size of a quarter. Duct tape, I duct taped the sun roof shut on my old rx7 but that car was beat to hell. But seeing as you'll be getting a new top eventually the tape residue doesn't have to come off cleanly.
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Sep 22, 2008 23:39
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FireTora posted:Duct tape, I duct taped the sun roof shut on my old rx7 but that car was beat to hell. But seeing as you'll be getting a new top eventually the tape residue doesn't have to come off cleanly. Gorilla Tape if you want to spend a little more cash on the roll. It's stickier and has more fibers in the tape. I taped from the bottom and the top to make sure the glue residue didn't get on everything.
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Sep 22, 2008 23:49
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Sport Utility Miata!  Also I hate my point and shoot camera. FireTora fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Sep 23, 2008 |
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Sep 23, 2008 03:26
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kaiory posted:Is this miata a good deal? I'm going to be checking it out later today. 1992 miata 5 speed with 100k miles $4000 Very good deal. Check out the soft top, figure that to be a $600 repair if it's bad.
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Sep 23, 2008 03:42
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kimbo305 posted:Gorilla Tape if you want to spend a little more cash on the roll. It's stickier and has more fibers in the tape. I taped from the bottom and the top to make sure the glue residue didn't get on everything. I tried duct tape, but it just melted and the hole got bigger. 
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Sep 23, 2008 07:31
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BusinessWallet posted:I tried duct tape, but it just melted and the hole got bigger. Bicycle tire patching kit maybe? If the patches are big enough those would probably work well once its glued on.
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Sep 23, 2008 08:37
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duck tape (yes, the duck brand ducttape) worked fine on mine after the top got slashed for around 6 months - though numerous patches from hail damage on my 94 didn't last a week. key is to try and get the ducttape to adhere to itself, so use it on the top and bottom. a more permanent solution is to go grab some cloth backed vinyl maybe from a craft store and some vinyl adhesive. my permanent solution in the 96 was to sew the slash up, just to bring the two pieces together, then cut a piece of the scrap that came with my new top for the 94 (save that scrap!) with about 1.5 inches laying over on each side, then glue it down over top of the stitches. been another 6 months, doesn't leak and doesn't look horrible (better than ducttape anyway).   doesn't look like i have pictures of the more permanent solution. Just remember ducttape likes to stick to itself more than anything else, so give it plenty of surface area to stick onto the vinyl. iscariot fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Sep 23, 2008 |
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Sep 23, 2008 09:41
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Hey I was rotating my tires on my NC and I noticed one of the screws on the front driver's side rotor was backing out. Any idea why it would be backing out? Never had it happen on any of my other cars.
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Sep 23, 2008 18:25
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azzenco posted:Hey I was rotating my tires on my NC and I noticed one of the screws on the front driver's side rotor was backing out. Any idea why it would be backing out? Never had it happen on any of my other cars. You have a screw on your rotor?
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Sep 23, 2008 18:43
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Ziploc posted:You have a screw on your rotor? Some cars do just to hold it in place. I guess for when the wheel is off but I'm not sure. I know cars that use lug bolts instead of studs do. But there are some with studs that do also. For instance the second gen rx-7 has then in the front.
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Sep 23, 2008 19:00
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Well, I guess there are two screws that hold the rotor in or something. Been a while since I've actually replaced a rotor but there are a couple of phillips screws in between the studs and one of them backed out, if that made any sense.
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Sep 23, 2008 19:02
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azzenco posted:Well, I guess there are two screws that hold the rotor in or something. Been a while since I've actually replaced a rotor but there are a couple of phillips screws in between the studs and one of them backed out, if that made any sense. I haven't worked on an NC at all, but the only thing that should be holding the rotor in place is the hub and the pads on either side of it. I know that on the NA rotors, there's a 1/4-20 or something similar hole where you screw in to get it to pop off. 
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Sep 23, 2008 19:05
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Phone posted:I haven't worked on an NC at all, but the only thing that should be holding the rotor in place is the hub and the pads on either side of it. I know that on the NA rotors, there's a 1/4-20 or something similar hole where you screw in to get it to pop off. M8x1.25 *not* 1/4-20
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Sep 23, 2008 19:12
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Schwack posted:And that is why I beat the gently caress out of my Miata every time I drive it... I think it likes it best that way. azzenco posted:Well, I guess there are two screws that hold the rotor in or something. Been a while since I've actually replaced a rotor but there are a couple of phillips screws in between the studs and one of them backed out, if that made any sense. For the non-believers, I'm guessing he's talking about the screws similar to these: http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/honda/newpads.jpg Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Sep 23, 2008 |
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Sep 23, 2008 21:09
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Vitamin J posted:There's another way to drive them? Ive never seen those filled... Usually those holes are left blank so that you can thread in a bolt if the rotor is stuck onto the hub.
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Sep 24, 2008 00:05
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Yeah, those are it. Thanks.
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Sep 24, 2008 00:07
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I'm having doubts my CAS O-ring replacement is working or taking. Would it be safe to make a little aluminum foil "cape" or pan around the underside of the CAS? The idea is to drive with it on a few times, checking under the hood after each trip that it's still attached and whether there's any new oil collected in it. My evidence is that there's still oil covering the hoses and parts around the CAS. I guess it's possible that the oil is so viscous that it won't go anywhere, and looks greasy and fresh after the engine heats it up?
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Sep 25, 2008 21:11
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kimbo305 posted:I'm having doubts my CAS O-ring replacement is working or taking. If you didn't clean off the oil oil that had built up it doesn't just drain itself off. Look around the edge of your valve cover gasket and see if its wet with oil anywhere. If it is you probably have a leaky gasket.
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Sep 25, 2008 21:22
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FireTora posted:If you didn't clean off the oil oil that had built up it doesn't just drain itself off. Look around the edge of your valve cover gasket and see if its wet with oil anywhere. If it is you probably have a leaky gasket. The gasket is good everywhere besides the impact zone of the CAS, so I assume it's ok.
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Sep 25, 2008 22:00
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Even with the body damage, does this sound like a good idea? I saw blue book around 5K, and I can probably make that front quarter panel look semi-decent again. 1999 Miata Convertible 120K Miles http://atlanta.craigslist.org/cto/860460499.html I am looking for something that would be good for the wife, and easy for me to fix. The only thing I worry about is a clutch replacement if it hasn't had one already seeing it is sitting at 120K miles.
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Sep 30, 2008 15:19
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That's probably the roughest non-totaled NB I've ever seen but at $2k, who the gently caress cares? At that price it could have some serious mechanical issues and you'd still come out ahead...that said if you would rather not deal with said mechanical issues, I would inspect it very closely. Even with the passenger fender, driver's taillight, and the top hosed up, I would think that car with bare minimum repairs (i.e. jam the headlight so it points forward again kinda) would probably get between $3-4k in many markets. $2k is cheap enough that I start to worry about what else could be wrong.
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Sep 30, 2008 15:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:That's probably the roughest non-totaled NB I've ever seen but at $2k, who the gently caress cares? At that price it could have some serious mechanical issues and you'd still come out ahead...that said if you would rather not deal with said mechanical issues, I would inspect it very closely. If it were within a reasonable distance of me, I'd be buying it and junking my NA. It doesn't look like the frame horn is even bent. If it runs and drives without any immediately noticeable problems, I'd say it is worth it.
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Sep 30, 2008 15:51
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Arzakon posted:1999 Miata Convertible 120K Miles
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Sep 30, 2008 18:10
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 says that it's sold already.
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Sep 30, 2008 18:14
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Phone posted:
yes, some Spec racer is thumbing his nose at the other prospective buyers as we speak.
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Sep 30, 2008 18:24
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I just got a reply he sent out saying he has overwhelming interest in the car and he is selling it to whoever has cash in hand, $2000 at Piedmont Park in midtown Atlanta tonight. I don't really need it, and don't like the possibility of getting mugged or scammed. Combined with the fact my truck is on a quarter tank, my Mazda is on empty, and traffic at 7PM sucks, I'm just going to let her go. Oh well.
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Sep 30, 2008 18:31
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If anyone near NJ wants to come pick up a set of stock 1990 alloys in mediocre condition with dry-rotted tires still mounted, let me know. If you want another set of four in the same condition, I think my roommate will let his go for $50 or so.
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Sep 30, 2008 22:36
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I'm test-driving a hard-top NC on Saturday. Not really interested in buying that particular model, I'm more interested in an NA or possibly an NB (but I have a hard-on for flip-up lights) Does the NC handle reasonably similarly to the others? Only reason I'm doing it this way is because there's a dire shortage of NAs/NBs here that would be test-driveable.
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Sep 30, 2008 23:24
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Hey let's bring a lot of cash somewhere in the middle of the night and meet someone we don't know!! GREAT IDEA!!! I actually heard someone in Dallas was robbed 'cause he went to someone's house to buy a tv with about 2 g's in cash on him as well. Here's hoping nobody goes. Or if they do they bring some cops.
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Oct 1, 2008 00:14
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| # ? May 15, 2024 01:35 |
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GazChap posted:I'm test-driving a hard-top NC on Saturday. Not really interested in buying that particular model, I'm more interested in an NA or possibly an NB (but I have a hard-on for flip-up lights) The NA/NB/NC all handle very similarly. The NC is really quick when compared to an NA, though.
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Oct 1, 2008 00:25
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