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I believe Mazda tried to tune the exhaust to sound a bit like an MGA.
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Oct 16, 2008 20:57
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well, I bought it. Looks nice with the black paint/white hardtop, and wan't too bad on the 'bahn, either. I'm getting it reg'd monday, and will do an engine was first thing so I can pinpoint exactly where the gunk came from. there's definitely fresh oil from the CAS or valve cover, and we'll see where things go from there. also, I've got mad lifter tick. I'm going to do a oil change with a thinner oil and add a bottle of motor flush. then drive a few days, let that out, and put in clean oil + hydraulic lifter additive that apparently, magically, gets rid of it. here's hoping!
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Oct 16, 2008 21:02
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Frank Dillinger posted:well, I bought it. Looks nice with the black paint/white hardtop, and wan't too bad on the 'bahn, either. I'm getting it reg'd monday, and will do an engine was first thing so I can pinpoint exactly where the gunk came from. there's definitely fresh oil from the CAS or valve cover, and we'll see where things go from there. Nope it won't. Miata engines tick like mad.
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Oct 16, 2008 21:06
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kimbo305 posted:So I need to confirm that I have the right sized socket for the huge axle nut (at least I recall it being pretty big when I last looked). What about staking makes it easier for air tools to take off? Or does the presence of the staking just mean that it's on really loving tight? Does any have a torque spec or references for this nut? I couldn't find it on miata.net or on google. Yeah. I want to say that it's about 24 mm, but it might even be like 29 or 30 or something monstrous like that. It's on really loving tight and it's hard to unstake it all the way with the little room you have. Since it's made of brass, if you don't unstake it all the way an airtool will do it for you by pushing it against the notch in the spindle. Since the steel spindle is far harder than the brass nut, this takes the stake right out. IOwnCalculus's method is definitely easier, especially if you don't have airtools. I was just a bit leery about screwing up the spindle with the hammering or loving up the splines in the stud by pulling it on with a nut. Of course, I also had a nice air impact right there. Torque spec from the '99 FSM is 123 - 159 ft-lb. After you get it in, you should make the stake at least 0.5 mm deep (also from the '99 FSM). A cold chisel works nicely for that.
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Oct 16, 2008 21:25
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n8r posted:Nope it won't. Miata engines tick like mad. And it'll drive you mad. My 1996 never ticked, but my 1994 ticks like no tomorrow. Question of my own; at start up, there is a bunch of noise when clutching in and releasing to go into reverse and/or 1st?
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Oct 16, 2008 21:57
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destructo posted:Maybe I'm biased, but does the BP series seem to have an.. acceptable note for a I4? I've never heard a Honda sound like that. I've heard very few other four cylinder motors that sound as nice as the BP. Even the stock exhaust on my 95M sounds pretty good all things considered. Doesn't sound tinny, anemic, or like your average gutless/ricey I4. Of course it's not amazing like an S54 or LS7 or anything, but I would definitely agree that it is "acceptable" for an I4 even in stock form. My friends that aren't at all car guys thought I was lying when I told them that my car only has a 1.8L 4 banger and does 0-60 in about an hour. They were all like "but it sounds and feels fast!" I suppose being such a small, low, light ragtop helps with that impression, too. It surely won me over enough to buy one. And I still love it 2 years later. 
Guinness fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Oct 16, 2008 |
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Oct 16, 2008 22:09
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VPILF posted:IOwnCalculus's method is definitely easier, especially if you don't have airtools. I was just a bit leery about screwing up the spindle with the hammering or loving up the splines in the stud by pulling it on with a nut. Of course, I also had a nice air impact right there. Consider the forces that spindle gets in a hard corner  It's not like you have to wail on it with a 10lb sledge, either. Phone posted:And it'll drive you mad. My 1996 never ticked, but my 1994 ticks like no tomorrow. My '99 ticks pretty loudly, but my sister-in-law's '95M ticks really goddamn loudly, enough so that even being a BP I think it might need a valve adjustment. But it keeps on running like it should... And yes, ticking aside the BP is a very nice-sounding engine. Nothing amazing, nothing that's going to give you chills down your spine or make you crap your pants, but it really is quite pleasant.
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Oct 16, 2008 22:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:My '99 ticks pretty loudly, but my sister-in-law's '95M ticks really goddamn loudly, enough so that even being a BP I think it might need a valve adjustment. But it keeps on running like it should... 1. Ran it within an inch of its life for one full race. 2. Did minimal repair to fix power issues. 3. PUNCHED A GODDAMN 6" HOLE IN THE BLOCK WHEN A CONNECTING ROD FAILED. 4. Ran it on 3 cylinders for a while. 5. Drained it of oil, sent it back on the track. 6. Ran it approximately three miles under race conditions until it finally seized again. ...Nat claims it still runs, that he started it in his garage when it got it home. I've seen video, but I don't believe it.
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Oct 16, 2008 22:31
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Why the gently caress is it impossible to find a decent Miata in Ohio? I haven't found anything around $2500-$2800 at ALL. While convertible prices get a little lower in the colder seasons, but do the quantities decrease too? Will I ever find a car? 
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Oct 16, 2008 23:07
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Hypnolobster posted:Why the gently caress is it impossible to find a decent Miata in Ohio? I haven't found anything around $2500-$2800 at ALL. From my experience, you're probably going to be looking at a pretty rough example for $2500.
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Oct 16, 2008 23:23
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Hypnolobster posted:Why the gently caress is it impossible to find a decent Miata in Ohio? I haven't found anything around $2500-$2800 at ALL. I don't know what the market like is in Ohio, but in Washington/Seattle, the best Miata you could get for $2800 would be a salvage titled, 230k mile beater with a slashed top. Around here, you're looking at $4000 minimum for a "good" condition, clean titled car without an astronomical amount of miles. Realistically, you'd be looking at more like $5000 for an all-around good condition car, especially a 94-97. And even more if we start talking low miles, special editions, hard tops, new tops, etc. Of course I'm talking in general, as the rare exceptional deal does exist, but you might be waiting months for it. In early spring 2006, I paid $6000 for a 95 M-Edition with 70k miles, full records from day 1, and in overall excellent condition for a 12-13 year old car. It was even a good deal compared to other NAs I'd looked at for the price. I don't regret it one bit, especially considering the only maintenance I've had to do in the 2 years/10k miles is routine oil changes and the 75k plugs/wires/filters. And I did replace the top with a glass windowed top. Not required, but it's a thousand times better and was totally worth it. And also most convertible owners know not to sell their cars in the winter unless they really need to. Selling in spring/summer pretty much gives you a 25%+ price increase just because of the convertible factor. Guinness fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Oct 16, 2008 |
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Oct 16, 2008 23:23
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Hypnolobster posted:Why the gently caress is it impossible to find a decent Miata in Ohio? I haven't found anything around $2500-$2800 at ALL. It depends how lucky you get. I picked my 92 up in the bay area for $3400 at the end of may last year. Got it with 124k, a hard dog roll bar and a hard top. But externally its a bit beat up, it has a few ding and the paint isn't in very good shape. There are many more Miatas in the bay area than most other places I'm sure though affecting pricing a little. I've also never been to Ohio so I don't know what the car market there is like.
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Oct 16, 2008 23:31
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Picked up a '95 Popular package with 97,000 miles on the clock and documentation from 81,000. Tires have maybe 5,000 miles on them, top in great condition, and a very clean interior. There are a few niggling issues, like the paint looks pretty worn and there is a grounding issue with the after market CD changer, but if you leave it unplugged the battery won't drain. Also came with Jackson Racing headers and whatever cat back they offer. Driven it maybe 10 miles today and I'm already in love. Set me back $3400. How did I do AI? (Pictures maybe tomorrow)
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Oct 17, 2008 00:12
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rex rabidorum vires posted:Set me back $3400. How did I do AI? (Pictures maybe tomorrow)
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Oct 17, 2008 00:24
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Phone posted:Question of my own; at start up, there is a bunch of noise when clutching in and releasing to go into reverse and/or 1st? Define "bunch of noise". Does it happen throughout the clutch in and out, or only at a certain point? At a guess, without knowing more, Id say check the clutch slave (easiest) and then suspect a bad throwout bearing (yay, new clutch)
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Oct 17, 2008 15:32
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It makes a noise throughout. I have no idea if I'm still on the original clutch or not, but I'm sitting at 157k so it could really go either way. It only really makes the noise on a cold startup. If I go run into a store and come back within 15 minutes, I don't hear the noise.
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Oct 17, 2008 23:31
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Could just be a squeaky clutch linkage--but I imagine it wouldn't only be on cold starts then.
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Oct 17, 2008 23:49
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ChiliMac posted:Could just be a squeaky clutch linkage--but I imagine it wouldn't only be on cold starts then. Is this easy to confirm/look at? I have a chronic rotating squeak (that is, it squeaks as flywheel turns) in the last inch or so of engagement. If I push the clutch in an inch, it goes away.
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Oct 17, 2008 23:53
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kimbo305 posted:Is this easy to confirm/look at? I have a chronic rotating squeak (that is, it squeaks as flywheel turns) in the last inch or so of engagement. If I push the clutch in an inch, it goes away. I haven't tried but: miata.net posted:Anyone had this squeaking sound comeing from the floorboard when the push the cluthc pedal down and up? My miata is a 1k or less miles per year car. Is this a lubrication issue or bigger problem. curious to see if anyone else has encountered and proposed fixes. http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/index.php/t-49647.html Additional clutch pedal sounds: http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s003_95.html
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Oct 18, 2008 00:46
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destructo posted:The ebay Tsudo N1 doesn't have a bad sound to it and you can get that for around $200 shipped if you try and get a seller to cut a deal. It's 2.25 piping the whole way through. Doesn't sound half-bad There's currently only 1 store selling those on eBay. How do I go about cutting a deal? Just email them? How do I ensure they don't run off with my money? edit: I also found a website offering it for $240 shipped. http://www.eracingzone.com/TSUDO-N1-90-97-MIATA-CATBACK-EXHAUST-p-21286.html Ripoff? Seems like the next cheapest exhaust is Flyin' Miata's at just over $400, but to be honest I haven't been particularly impressed with what I've read of them lately. mobn fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Oct 18, 2008 |
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Oct 18, 2008 21:37
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mobn posted:There's currently only 1 store selling those on eBay. How do I go about cutting a deal? Just email them? How do I ensure they don't run off with my money? Racing Beat's single tip is a bit under $300 and Enthuza's budget one is just under $350. http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=56451 http://shop.enthuzacar.com/category.sc?categoryId=4 You can also get ~30% back on buy-it-now items on ebay now with this deal in the coupons forum. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2877766. I'm tempted to get an exhaust but I'm kinda tired of spending money on the Miata, I want something newer and faster but I donno...
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Oct 18, 2008 22:32
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destructo posted:Maybe I'm biased, but does the BP series seem to have an.. acceptable note for a I4? I've never heard a Honda sound like that.
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Oct 18, 2008 23:28
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My new floor mats and a cupholder arrived yesterday. After 6 years a cupholder in there will be convenient, and my wife reports the floor mats are good for driving it with heels. 
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Oct 19, 2008 04:25
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FireTora posted:Racing Beat's single tip is a bit under $300 and Enthuza's budget one is just under $350. Is that Racing Beat unit just the muffler, or is it a full exhaust? My entire exhaust is pretty much rusted through, and there's a big rear end hole in the muffler. The whole thing needs replacing. edit: No, it isn't. The rest of the system is an extra 130 bucks. I suppose if I don't shell out for a decent exhaust now though, I'll just regret it later when I do other work to the car. How does the Racing Beat exhaust compare to Flyin' Miata's? mobn fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Oct 19, 2008 |
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Oct 19, 2008 05:33
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mobn posted:Is that Racing Beat unit just the muffler, or is it a full exhaust? My entire exhaust is pretty much rusted through, and there's a big rear end hole in the muffler. The whole thing needs replacing. I'm not sure how they compare. I haven't seen or heard any Miata exhaust myself, if its as nice as their RX7 ones though it'll be very well built and sound good.
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Oct 19, 2008 06:14
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I bought a Bosal OE replacement exhaust from http://www.autopartsway.ca and it does everything I need it to. It was cheap and sounds good.
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Oct 19, 2008 07:21
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Suniikaa posted:I bought a Bosal OE replacement exhaust from http://www.autopartsway.ca and it does everything I need it to. It was cheap and sounds good. If I just wanted to replace it that way, I'd just let a shop weld in new piping themselves. The point of buying a pre-fab exhaust is that hypothetically some extra engineering and tuning went into its design. Edit: I found some youtube vids of the Racing Beat exhaust, and it sounds pretty decent. Those of you with experience, does their stuff bolt on as easy as they say it does? I'm gonna order it tonight, and I need to know whether I can do it myself or reserve some garage time. mobn fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Oct 19, 2008 |
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Oct 19, 2008 15:55
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So I finally got around to putting my mom steering wheel and quick disconnect hub on my miata. It makes a big difference in the leg room I have as well as the steering feel. Now I am just concerned whether or not I need to cut the extra loops in the seat belt, which is what miata.net suggests to do. Have any of you guys done this before?
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Oct 19, 2008 23:51
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Negromancer posted:cut the extra loops in the seat belt I've never heard of this before, what is it for? Could you link to a garage page/thread about it? Also where did you get your hub adapter from? I've been looking for somewhere to get a wheel/hub from.
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Oct 20, 2008 00:01
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So three questions. IS the Rag top really loud inside? I have heard it is. Is the hard top much quieter? Does the Hardtops extra weight degrade the performance? What is the Auto Transmission like in the new models? Smooth?
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Oct 20, 2008 08:36
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isoprenaline posted:IS the Rag top really loud inside? I have heard it is. Depends on your definition of loud, I guess. Louder than a fixed roof car, obviously, but you can most definitely hold a conversation at freeway speeds with the soft top on. Also the car in general just has almost no sound deadening. The top is only one piece of the equation. If you're looking for quiet, you're not looking for a roadster. Especially not a Miata. For what it's worth, my Miata is my only car. I can commute happily in it, but I'm a car nut and love the noisy cockpit, high strung engine, stiff suspenion, and responsive-to-the-point-of-twitchy handling. I also know people who would HATE daily driving a Miata (most non-car people). It's all about what you want in a car. quote:Is the hard top much quieter? Does the Hardtops extra weight degrade the performance? Are you talking about the removable hard top of the NA/NB, or the PRHT of the NC? I don't have any experience with the PRHT NC, but the hard top of the NA/NB is a bit quiter than the soft top, but it's still not like a fixed roof car. The insulation helps, but the car is still extremely light on sound deadening material. There's simply no way around that. The road and wind noise are all a part of the charm of the car. They contribute to the direct, connected driving feel and experience. The car is not designed to be a quiet, comfy freeway cruiser. The extra weight of the hardtop is pretty negligible. If you start really nitpicking over numbers and lap times, there will be a small loss of performance by adding on a hardtop. But unless you're looking to squeeze every last fraction of a second off your autocross or track time, it's not a significant difference. Having a passenger in the car will affect performance more than the hard top will. quote:What is the Auto Transmission like in the new models? Smooth? Waste of time. High strung four bangers and automatic transmissions do not go together well AT ALL. The Miata is the kind of car that you have to keep at the top end of the rev range to make any sort of power. When I'm driving mine like it is meant to be driven, I'm pretty much solely between 4000 and 7000 RPM. Plus, Mazda detunes the engine for less power in the automatic version of the car. This is on top of the auto tranny being less efficient than the manual tranny, too. This is true for every generation of the car: NA, NB, and even NC. And let's be frank here: the Miata doesn't have a lot of power in the first place and definitely doesn't need to lose more of it. I'm sure the NC auto tranny is better than the NA/NB auto, but it's still not appropriate for car at all. The whole point of a roadster is to have a highly responsive car with a highly involved and communicative driving experience. An automatic transmission tarnishes both of those. There's a drat good reason nearly every Miata for sale is a manual, and why automatic Miatas have such lovely resale value (hint: no one wants them). Guinness fucked around with this message at 09:04 on Oct 20, 2008 |
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Oct 20, 2008 08:56
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einTier posted:I am convinced that the B-series engine is nigh-well unkillable. At 24 hours of Lemons, we did the following:  Should have tried this.
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Oct 20, 2008 10:09
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Suniikaa posted:I've never heard of this before, what is it for? Could you link to a garage page/thread about it? How would one replace the airbag'd steering wheel? Is that legal? And seconding on the loops thing; I'm intrigued.
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Oct 20, 2008 15:57
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Will 13" wheels fit on a 96 Miata with stock brakes? I'm seeing great deals on used good condition snows, and even brand new 13" snows are a lot cheaper than 15" or even 14.
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Oct 20, 2008 15:59
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I think 13s will work because you see a bunch of people at autocrosses running 13x8s on their NA Miatas. I'm not sure if the ones I saw this weekend were 1.6Ls or not, though.
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Oct 20, 2008 16:00
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FluffGrenade posted:How would one replace the airbag'd steering wheel? Is that legal? It is legal for the owner of the car to disable his airbags himself. Or install an aftermarket wheel with no airbags. I'm not sure this is true for every state in the US, though.
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Oct 20, 2008 16:18
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Suniikaa posted:I've never heard of this before, what is it for? Could you link to a garage page/thread about it? This is the hub adapter I got: http://www.gomiata.com/mihubadplpl9.html Its a bit more expensive than the normal momo or nardi ones, but install was cake as it is designed for a na miata and even has the little harness on it to keep the airbag light off. Also, depending on how tall you are, you might want to look into getting a quick disconnect hub for the steering wheel too, as it pushes the wheel farther back and gave me a ton more leg room. With that and my MOMO Tuner wheel it makes the car much more comfortable to drive. And here is the miata.net article: http://www.miata.net/garage/momo/index.html That is actually using the exact same hub adapter as the one I got from gomiata.com. In the last step they say: 'A final step, although one that some consider controversial, is to make a permanent modification to the seat belt. With air bag equipped cars you'll find under the black cover (shown in photo) a double loop of belt. This is for air bag cars only - it allows some forward movement of the driver to the air bag during a crash. With no air bag this would be a problem! You can remove this cover using a razor blade and then cut all the stitching holding the looped belt. The extra belt now returns to the seatbelt reel.' I usually trust miata.net, but for some reason this doesn't sound right... FluffGrenade posted:How would one replace the airbag'd steering wheel? Is that legal? To the best of my knowledge, there is no law saying that a vehicle with an airbag has to retain its airbag. Personally I feel much better now that the airbags gone, as I don't trust them in the least, especially on older cars that had the first generation style airbags. As for replacing it, the miata.net article has step by step instructions. Just hope the airbag doesn't go off in your face while removing it.
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Oct 20, 2008 16:20
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Guinness posted:The extra weight of the hardtop is pretty negligible. If you start really nitpicking over numbers and lap times, there will be a small loss of performance by adding on a hardtop.
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Oct 20, 2008 16:42
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destructo posted:See I was under the impression that track times dropped with a hardtop due to the better aero. It presumably depends on how fast the track is.
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Oct 20, 2008 17:46
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Guinness posted:The extra weight of the hardtop is pretty negligible. If you start really nitpicking over numbers and lap times, there will be a small loss of performance by adding on a hardtop. But unless you're looking to squeeze every last fraction of a second off your autocross or track time, it's not a significant difference. SM drivers say the hardtop adds 3-5mph on every straightaway. I leave mine on for track days and remove it for autocross. 13" wheels will fit, but you need a lot of backspacing (low offset) to clear 1.8 brakes. The 13x8 +4 Rotas fit, IIRC. Be sure to check.
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Oct 20, 2008 20:55
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