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Is there any way to get more power out of the charging system? I installed some heated grips, and they work pretty well at above ~2500 rpm. The problem is that they have some battery-saving circuit that cuts them off when the voltage drops below 11.5v, which it does at idle. So any time I stop for a light, the heat shuts off. Turning it on again means holding the on button for like 3 seconds, and then pressing it 3 more times to get the setting to 100%. Which is kind of a pain. This is an old bike (82 GPz 550), so I'm guessing I don't have many options, but any ideas would be helpful.
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Oct 30, 2008 15:01
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There's really not a lot you can do. You're looking at the wattage limit of your stator. Things get rather confusing, because you could potentially have a 200v output, but if you draw enough amperage on it, the voltage will drop right down to inexcusably low levels. My first suggestion would be to buy a new battery, and keep it on a charger at night. That would likely keep the battery voltage high enough. If your r/r is set low, that "could" be the issue. But given that your heat works above 2500rpm, I think your r/r is ok. Honestly, I'd find a new grip heater controller. :-)
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Oct 30, 2008 15:13
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Nerobro posted:There's really not a lot you can do. You're looking at the wattage limit of your stator. Is it possible to get a better stator in these things? In cars, you buy a higher amp alternator, but I dunno if you can do that on a bike. For now though, I've wired it directly to the battery and it seems to work. My voltmeter @4k rpm shows the battery @ 13v when the heater is on, and ~13.5-14 when it's off. So the thing is definitely pulling some amps. I'll have to keep an eye on things to make sure the battery is still being charged. It looks like it is, just not as fast as it might otherwise. Just have to remember to shut the stupid grips off when I'm done riding.
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Oct 30, 2008 15:37
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chryst posted:Thanks. I plan on taking it up with the heater people, and see if they can do anything. It is a brand new battery ( < 6months). Set up a relay box: http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php Must have for any accesories, IMO. I've done them on 3 bikes now and they're essential.
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Oct 30, 2008 15:45
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Z3n posted:Set up a relay box:
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Oct 30, 2008 16:05
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I have a few questions that I don't recall reading. On cold days is it okay to choke your bike to start and leave it choked till you are moving? I just got a 08 Ninja 250r and tried letting it warm up with the choke, dechoking, then starting, but it always dies when I let out the clutch. If I leave the choke in till I'm moving then it does fine. Where do you guys normally park when in town? I rode to Walmart yesterday (first long ride) and parked on the big empty sidewalk next to the door where I've seen other guys park in the past. Will that cause problems? I don't really want to get a ticket, but taking up a whole parking spot seems kind of silly. Plus I figure people are less likely to mess with it up there. Oh and on that note, do you normally leave your helmet with your bike or carry it with you? My bike has no where to store it (haha storage), but I could leave it hanging from the handlebars I guess. Is there any way to install a gear indicator? The only problems I had on my ride to town was when pulling up to a stop sign and not picking my foot up enough between downshifts. So it ended up in 2nd or 3rd instead of first. Of course when I tried to start off it died. I toed to the side and let the cars behind me go ahead so I could figure out my mistake. A little led display with a 1-6 would be handy. No idea why they didn't do that instead of a simple neutral light. Last one, is it just me or do the mirrors seem pretty awful? You either see off to the sides of the road or you see your arms. If I want to see anything behind me I have to pull my arms in and lean my head a bit. Is this normal? I guess they're just not far enough out.
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Oct 30, 2008 17:53
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I usually park in a parking space, but it does seem pretty common to park on the sidewalk near stores - I imagine it's probably fine. Your bike should have a helmet lock (I was pretty sure Ninja 250s did, anyway) - look for a small keyhole near the backend of the bike. It operates a clip for the d-ring of your helmet. Gear indicators are possible, but the reason they don't do it rather than a neutral light (esp. on "cheap" bikes) is that it adds considerable complexity. Something like this, though that one doesn't say it works with the 250r. I'd call them to check. I'm still having the same problem with my mirrors. I'd imagine aftermarket mirrors might be better, but the only way I can think of to solve it would be mounting them further up/out and mine are already pretty out there.
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Oct 30, 2008 18:08
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QnoisX posted:I have a few questions that I don't recall reading. On cold days is it okay to choke your bike to start and leave it choked till you are moving? I just got a 08 Ninja 250r and tried letting it warm up with the choke, dechoking, then starting, but it always dies when I let out the clutch. If I leave the choke in till I'm moving then it does fine. It sounds like the bike isn't really warmed up yet. I've heard people say the Ninja 250 takes longer to warm up than some (those same people described this same problem). If you're late for work you can give it more throttle when starting before you let out the clutch and let the clutch slip more as you release or ride it for a minute or so with it choked, but neither are particularly good for the bike.
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Oct 30, 2008 18:14
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I warm my bikes up on the move. That's the best way of doing it anyway. :-) If it's stalling out, slip the clutch a little more. by your second or third stopsign the bike will be warmed up.
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Oct 30, 2008 18:22
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Nerobro posted:I warm my bikes up on the move. That's the best way of doing it anyway. :-) If it's stalling out, slip the clutch a little more. by your second or third stopsign the bike will be warmed up. It's hard to outrun loose dogs when your cold carbed bike sputters instead of taking off.  Thankfully with 139 dB of Stebel airhorn, you don't have to. 
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Oct 30, 2008 18:30
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chryst posted:Is there any way to get more power out of the charging system? I installed some heated grips, and they work pretty well at above ~2500 rpm. The problem is that they have some battery-saving circuit that cuts them off when the voltage drops below 11.5v, which it does at idle. So any time I stop for a light, the heat shuts off. Turning it on again means holding the on button for like 3 seconds, and then pressing it 3 more times to get the setting to 100%. Which is kind of a pain. a relay will work fine in your case, but if you're at the limit of what your bike can supply switching to LED tail lights and indicators can free up a few watts. Whoa. Wife Turds posted:If you're late for work you can give it more throttle when starting before you let out the clutch and let the clutch slip more as you release or ride it for a minute or so with it choked, but neither are particularly good for the bike. riding with the choke on isn't great for the bike, excess fuel will wash lubricating oil off the cylinders and accelerate wear, i don't think you'd notice it for a long time buy why risk it, however slipping the clutch isn't harmful, its designed to slip. if the bike is slow to warm up a jet kit or even a bit of fiddling with the pilots could help. echomadman fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Oct 30, 2008 |
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Oct 30, 2008 19:47
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My bike has a very specific cold routine, it's very reassuring and it has created a deep bond between us. If it's real cold I'll give it full choke. It starts right away and the mechanical sound is a bit rough. Five six seconds later oil pressure has built up, the noise quiets and the engine speeds up, I then push the choke lever in to let it idle around 1700 rpm. 20-30 seconds later the engine mechanicals quiet yet more, it speeds up again and I readjust again. Then it can sit for a few minutes before yet another increase in speed, but I usually take off before this. I have some lights just outside my house and I leave 1/4 choke on until I'm past them, then I just push it closed and get on my merry way. Just tried my first oil change of synthetic and the first transition of noise/idle speed sets on s little quicker.
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Oct 30, 2008 20:04
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Oh I forgot. I have a stupid question about valve adjustments. From what little I know, there are various ways valves go out of whack. On some engines the valves wear into the head and eventually go tight against whatever actuates it as it eventually sits higher. Does this eventually wear out the head? If so, is it usually engineered to have a replacement mileage higher than the expected life? I said "on some" because I remember hearing just that somewhere, are there other wear modes and ways valves can go out of adjustment?
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Oct 30, 2008 20:16
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QnoisX posted:I have a few questions that I don't recall reading. On cold days is it okay to choke your bike to start and leave it choked till you are moving? I just got a 08 Ninja 250r and tried letting it warm up with the choke, dechoking, then starting, but it always dies when I let out the clutch. If I leave the choke in till I'm moving then it does fine. I just take up a full spot when parking, but leaving a bike on the sidewalk isn't the norm around here. I've never seen anyone do that and I would assume I'd get a ticket if I tried. I usually take my helmet with me because I'm paranoid and my helmet lock puts it right on the exhaust. I leave it with the bike (on the rear turn signal or on the ground) at certain locations where I feel comfortable that no one will gently caress with it. Just practice pushing through all the gears as you're stopping. It'll become second nature. I don't know about Ninja, but on my bike, I have a very small limit in which I can adjust the mirror. If I try to go too far out, the mirror will tilt down and show me nothing but road. I had to trial-and-error with rotating the mirror stalk to a position that would allow me the correct adjust range. Try messing with the stalks and see if you can get better range.
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Oct 30, 2008 20:27
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Bugdrvr posted:I would agree with Neroboro and say you should probably look at cleaning the pilot jets in your carbs. I went ahead and cleaned my carb. Took everything out cleaned it all pretty good, and my bike still wont start. I thought it was the cold because it started the day before it got chilly, but now its pretty warm again and I still cant get it to start. After fiddling with my carb and putting it back on I noticed my horn wasn't working. Maybe I accidentally unplugged something or another and my killswitch is being tripped, I'm not sure. Ok so other than carb, sparkplug, and wiring, what could have gone wrong in the last 5 days. I haven't opened it yet so im sure my timing is still good. I thought I may have fouled my plug chocking it so much, but it still sparks. And I don't think my compression could have been affected over the week iv owned this. When I took apart my carb I unscrewed all the jets, not sure exactly which is the pilot jet, or how to adjust it, but I unscrewed everything, sprayed carb cleaner, and put it all back together. Am I missing somthing?
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Oct 30, 2008 20:34
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philkop posted:but I unscrewed everything, sprayed carb cleaner, and put it all back together. Am I missing somthing? Lots. There are lots of how-to guides for cleaning carbs. You should have followed one of them. Most likely, you never actually cleaned the portion of the jets that needed cleaning, and in the act of screwing and unscrewing everything you have closed off your pilot screw. You are now in moderately deep do-doo. At this point, you'll need to look up a factory service manual, and check to see where your pilot screw should be set. And what notch your carb needle should be set to.
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Oct 30, 2008 21:28
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Ola posted:Oh I forgot. I have a stupid question about valve adjustments. From what little I know, there are various ways valves go out of whack. On some engines the valves wear into the head and eventually go tight against whatever actuates it as it eventually sits higher. Does this eventually wear out the head? If so, is it usually engineered to have a replacement mileage higher than the expected life? I can't help with the other wear types, but it won't eventually wear out the head. Adjustments on shims are measured in the .05 of a mm range, so you'd be looking at hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of miles on most bikes. I'm sure there are exceptions to this rule, like for hardcore racebikes and such, but for normal bikes, you're talking about an adjustment of about .05mm every adjustment interval, so...not really significant.
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Oct 30, 2008 21:28
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Ola posted:Oh I forgot. I have a stupid question about valve adjustments. From what little I know, there are various ways valves go out of whack. On some engines the valves wear into the head and eventually go tight against whatever actuates it as it eventually sits higher. Does this eventually wear out the head? If so, is it usually engineered to have a replacement mileage higher than the expected life? What does wear out, eventually, are valve guides. I could see a shot to hell valve guide lettinga valve rattle enough that it wears the head in some signifigant fashion.
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Oct 30, 2008 21:41
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Nerobro posted:Lots. There are lots of how-to guides for cleaning carbs. You should have followed one of them. Most likely, you never actually cleaned the portion of the jets that needed cleaning, and in the act of screwing and unscrewing everything you have closed off your pilot screw. Ok so I have a service manual. Id rather not mess it up any further so can anyone help me make sense of this. I know where my jets are now, do the numbers have anything to do with how tight or loose they should be?  Click here for the full 792x1336 image.
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Oct 30, 2008 23:15
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philkop posted:Ok so I have a service manual. Id rather not mess it up any further so can anyone help me make sense of this. I know where my jets are now, do the numbers have anything to do with how tight or loose they should be? Those numbers in the service manual page are mostly specs. The jet size and such along with float level. Did you clean the holes in the jets when you took them out? You might have needed something more than carb cleaner if they are clogged. You should be able to see through them if they are clear. Did you check float level? You don't need to screw the jets in really tight at all. Just a tiny bit of a snug after they make contact with the carb body. Before you do anything else, you really do need to find out why your horn isn't working. If you blew a fuse somehow or disconnected a power wire it could possibly go to things like your ignition system, in which case you are never going to get it started. Just remember not to get frustrated with it. All of us have been through the nightmare that is your first carb cleaning. It only gets easier the more you do it.
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Oct 31, 2008 01:17
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Thanks, I cleaned out all of the jets, I cut some guitar string and poked through after soaking them in carb cleaner. Turned them all until I felt a slight bit of resistance and left em there. So the carb is cleaned to the best of my ability, if all else fails I'll try it again. As for the horn, I think its running off the battery circuit, which may or may not be dead. I thought it might have to do with that so i did my favorite test, telling a friend to hold the spark plug cable while I kick..  . I'm sure he can confirm, we do have a charge going through to the spark plug. I'll try to fix the electronics a little better too. Kind of a stupid question, but all I need from the electronic portion to start is a charge to the spark plug right? I just went out about 20 mins ago, screwed back on my carb, rehooked everything, and still nothing. I'd feel a lot better knowing the problem is the carb, so could I just take the carb off, pour enough gas or carb cleaner into the engine, screw back on the carb and kick? I'm obviously not the best mechanic but it seems like this would get it to combust and turn over at least a few times.
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Oct 31, 2008 01:50
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when you took it apart, and reassembled it. you likely removed the pilot screw. It may be called mixture screw. That needs to be set right, or the bike will not start.
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Oct 31, 2008 01:53
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Nerobro posted:when you took it apart, and reassembled it. you likely removed the pilot screw. It may be called mixture screw. That needs to be set right, or the bike will not start. Yeah the I found out which is the pilot on the inside thanks to the manual. I have some pictures of it above, I couldn't find anything on exactly how to set it, so I just screwed it in until right before it gets tight. Once my carb was back on the bike I tweaked the external idle mixture screws in every possible way just in case.
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Oct 31, 2008 01:56
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exactly how to set it, is important. You'll need to scrounge some honda sites to find the proper setting. 1.5 to 2.5 turns out is probally the right range.
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Oct 31, 2008 02:10
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Oh man, I didn't think it was that sensitive. I'll look around some more and fiddle with it in the morning. If I can pull this trough and bring this bike back to life, I think I'll treat er to some new lights. Iv been looking around, there's some decent ones, but does anyone have any recommendations for a brake light kit(switch and all), maybe with turn signals as well. I'm basically going to slap it on separate to the current wiring, its so old I think id be better off just starting out new. I was also wondering, I know you technically need turning signals (at least in FL) but has anyone every actually gotten in any trouble for using hand signals?
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Oct 31, 2008 02:48
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I own a 2006 Suzuki SV650S that I'm breaking down for winter storage. I've taking it all apart as I've got some upgrades to put on it(Gixxer rear Shock, power commander, single headlight/fairing delete). Anway I took the tank off, put it up on rearstands, turned the kill switch off and cranked the starter for about 3 seconds to get some oil on the cylinder walls. I then pulled the top of my air box off and pulled the filter and crankcase breather filter. As soon as I pulled the filter I noticed some white frothy poo poo on the bottom of the crankcase breather filter. I checked my coolant and it's green as green can be, I had to stop myself from drinking it it looked so good. I have yet to drain the oil for the winter, I'll do that tomorrow I think, but could cranking the engine with no gas cause some froth into the breather? I'm nervous kids 
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Oct 31, 2008 18:20
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I'll ask some guys around here if parking there in fine. It's not so much a sidewalk as a big empty spot between the doors and the garden center. Only biker I've seen park in a regular spot was a old guy on a massive, small car-sized trike. But we don't have a lot of motorcycle riders around here, so dunno. I tried to adjust the mirrors out more, but it's not happening. They're attached to the side of the bike and fixed. They're only adjustable by tilting like a car mirror. I'll just have to get used to moving my arm out of the way. Pretty sure I can lock the strap of my helmet under the passenger seat. It locks in place and has plastic tabs that would hold the strap. I need to practice taking it on and off a bit more so I don't have to fiddle with it so much, but it should be better than carrying the helmet around with me. I'll have to let it warm up more next time I head out on a cold night. I dechoke it as soon as I'm rolling if that doesn't work, so maybe it won't cause too much harm. That gear indicator won't work for my bike. It requires an electronic speedometer. It's not a big deal anyways, I only stalled out that one time. Now I know to pick up my foot a bit more so it'll actually downshift instead of just trying to fool me.
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Oct 31, 2008 19:43
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TheFonz posted:I own a 2006 Suzuki SV650S that I'm breaking down for winter storage. I've taking it all apart as I've got some upgrades to put on it(Gixxer rear Shock, power commander, single headlight/fairing delete). Anway I took the tank off, put it up on rearstands, turned the kill switch off and cranked the starter for about 3 seconds to get some oil on the cylinder walls. I then pulled the top of my air box off and pulled the filter and crankcase breather filter. As soon as I pulled the filter I noticed some white frothy poo poo on the bottom of the crankcase breather filter. Yeah, they'll spit a little condensation or the like up there sometimes. I wouldn't be too concerned about it.
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Oct 31, 2008 19:46
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TheFonz posted:I own a 2006 Suzuki SV650S that I'm breaking down for winter storage. I've taking it all apart as I've got some upgrades to put on it(Gixxer rear Shock, power commander, single headlight/fairing delete). Anway I took the tank off, put it up on rearstands, turned the kill switch off and cranked the starter for about 3 seconds to get some oil on the cylinder walls. I then pulled the top of my air box off and pulled the filter and crankcase breather filter. As soon as I pulled the filter I noticed some white frothy poo poo on the bottom of the crankcase breather filter. done any short rides in cold weather lately? condensation from inside the engine cases will emulsify with oil and make that milkshake poo poo, if the engine doesn't get up to full temp and stay there for a while it doesn't boil off, my SV's filler cap is always milky these cold mornings because i only have a 4 mile commute now, if i take the bike out and roast it for 20 mins all that poo poo disappears
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Oct 31, 2008 19:56
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Bam. That's exactly it. It's been about 20-30 degrees and I have a 5 mile commute never about 50 mph.
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Nov 1, 2008 14:43
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I have a 2006 Suzuki GS500 that I daily drive about 40 miles each way, 35 or so of which is on the freeway. Within the last 2 weeks or so it has started giving me this somewhat strange issue. After some time on the freeway, usually around the last leg of the way home, it starts to die. It dies in the same way that it does when it runs out of fuel; cutting out bit by bit. If I let it die and stop for a minute (literally a minute, it starts right back up) it will run fine all the way home again. If I throw it over to reserve while it’s still running, then put it back to ‘on’ after a minute or so, it once again runs normal. Other than that it runs completely normal all the time. No issues starting/idling, pickup feels the same that it always has etc. Hope this gives a good picture of whats going on.
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Nov 1, 2008 17:50
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Ok, so I finally get this thing started. New plugs, full carb clean, adjusted the jets according to the manual, all that. It still has a clutch problem so I look in the manual I now have and find its just a small nut on the outside, no derby cover or anything, must be for easier adjusting being that it is basically a dirt bike. Anyways... I unscrew the nut, experiment with the screw position, finally find sometehing that feels good on the clutch lever... all is good. I go to kickstart my bike (which now starts in 2-3 kick ) and the kick stand just kind of drops!!! I kick it down, no bounce back or anything, it just stays down!! poo poo WHAT DID I DO TO IT?!! EDIT: If you live in the greater Orlando area, and like crappy old bikes that no longer run, have I got a deal for you. Every time I try to fix something on this thing something else goes wrong. I just need to get to work, I'm sure somebody with more skill could easily fix this thing, I'd like to get some money back on this thing, I spent 700 on it a few weeks ago when it worked, and since it no longer works I'd do 450$. Let me know if your interested... After this I think I'm going to get me a nice little scooter..:P philkop fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Nov 1, 2008 |
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Nov 1, 2008 18:46
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Hibajubwa posted:I have a 2006 Suzuki GS500 that I daily drive about 40 miles each way, 35 or so of which is on the freeway. Within the last 2 weeks or so it has started giving me this somewhat strange issue. Plugged tank vent comes to mind here. I had the same problem on a Ducati I owned, the DPO had ziptied the tank vent hose to the frame with a vengance. The bike would stop like clockwork every 10 miles. Eventually I gave up on the vent line and pulled the hose off the tank. Edit-2006 has a carbon canister type system to catch all the vapors from the fuel tank-if that canister fills up with crap or gets plugged up somehow it'll cause these issues. Time for a canisterectomy! Gnomad fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Nov 1, 2008 |
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Nov 1, 2008 20:00
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Hibajubwa posted:I have a 2006 Suzuki GS500 that I daily drive about 40 miles each way, 35 or so of which is on the freeway. Within the last 2 weeks or so it has started giving me this somewhat strange issue. Try opening your gas cap when it quits. It sounds like you might have a blocked tank vent. If the vent is blocked the tank will start to have vacuum in it as you ride. After a while the carbs will stop getting fuel. When you sit for a while the pressure equalizes and you can go again for a while. If the gas cap thing works, you need to find out where the vent lines are and make sure they are not pinched or filled with a spider web or something.
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Nov 1, 2008 20:02
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Is it just my bike or do all of them make a high pitched noise when they warm up? I was told it's the gas tank venting pressure or something, but it will freak you out if you're going slow and not expecting it. You can barely hear it if you're at highway speed and wearing a helmet. Anyways, is this normal or something I need to fix?
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Nov 1, 2008 21:29
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QnoisX posted:Is it just my bike or do all of them make a high pitched noise when they warm up? It's a Kawasaki, right?
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Nov 1, 2008 22:17
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PuntCuncher posted:It's a Kawasaki, right? Yeah, 250r Ninja.
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Nov 1, 2008 23:59
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Gnomad posted:Plugged tank vent comes to mind here. I had the same problem on a Ducati I owned, the DPO had ziptied the tank vent hose to the frame with a vengance. The bike would stop like clockwork every 10 miles. Eventually I gave up on the vent line and pulled the hose off the tank. I'll go check out my vent lines, and hopefully find that canister-thing. Thanks.
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Nov 2, 2008 01:20
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I had the same thing happen on my 1980 GS550. it vents through the gas cap, so I had to clean the insides of the gas cap
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Nov 2, 2008 02:27
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PuntCuncher posted:It's a Kawasaki, right?  Mine only is really noticeable when I get below 1/4 tank. Why is it only on Kawis?
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Nov 2, 2008 06:18
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