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Savington posted:SM drivers say the hardtop adds 3-5mph on every straightaway. I leave mine on for track days and remove it for autocross. Ah, I didn't account for the aero improvement over the soft top on fast tracks. I was thinking more in terms of AutoX and the extra bit of weight. I'd be very much inclined to believe SM drivers about the hardtop on a track. 
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Oct 20, 2008 21:48
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Guinness posted:Ah, I didn't account for the aero improvement over the soft top on fast tracks. I was thinking more in terms of AutoX and the extra bit of weight. There's not a huge weight difference if you remove the soft top!
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Oct 20, 2008 21:51
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Autox, you're better off with a softtop. The hardtop for the NA/NB is about 50lbs of fiberglass, and it reduces drag. Also just a tad bit more slash resistant than a softtop.
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Oct 20, 2008 22:33
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Guinness posted:For what it's worth, my Miata is my only car. I can commute happily in it, but I'm a car nut and love the noisy cockpit, high strung engine, stiff suspenion, and responsive-to-the-point-of-twitchy handling. I also know people who would HATE daily driving a Miata (most non-car people). It's all about what you want in a car. I have two NAs and they are my only cars too... well, I also have an F-150 4x4, but I only drive it two and from the dump on trash days (and on the occasion I need lumber or dirt, gravel, etc). My wife gets on my case because "there is no reason you should have to rev that car more than 3000 rpm! you're just going to burn the motor up!" I have yet to convince her that the 1.6 isn't even starting to do what it's supposed to do until at least 4000 rpm. But I'll add that I do daily drive both my NAs, and I do NOT have hard tops for either of them. The Red 91 with factory exhaust is somewhat noisy, but not bad. the 91 BRG with the Borla exhaust is several times louder, but you can STILL hold a converstation without yelling in the car AND hear the stereo too. One thing I have noticed though, is that the condition of the top matters. The red one has a worn out top and a torn rear window, and there is a definite difference in noise levels compared to the BRG with a practically new top, even if you exclude the difference in exhausts. And also, get the manual. The auto sucks, at least on the older models. I have heard that the NC models (especially the 6spd auto/paddle shift) is actually pretty good, but I've not had the chance to drive one myself.
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Oct 20, 2008 23:01
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mobn posted:I found some youtube vids of the Racing Beat exhaust, and it sounds pretty decent. Those of you with experience, does their stuff bolt on as easy as they say it does? I'm gonna order it tonight, and I need to know whether I can do it myself or reserve some garage time. The racing beat exhaust is bolt on and yeah its pretty easy, I believe it just uses the stock hanger points. the stock rubber exhaust hangers can be a bitch to remove though. Other than that, you just have to make sure you bolt everything together carefully as to avoid exhaust leaks, but thats really the hardest part.
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Oct 21, 2008 05:19
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isoprenaline posted:IS the Rag top really loud inside? I have heard it is. quote:Is the hard top much quieter? Does the Hardtops extra weight degrade the performance? quote:What is the Auto Transmission like in the new models? Smooth? bear scrylls fucked around with this message at 10:14 on Oct 21, 2008 |
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Oct 21, 2008 06:41
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In regard to complaints about road noise, there are several good threads over on Miata.net that go into detail about using sound-dampening materials to make the car quieter. Some have just stuck some asphalt liner under the trunk liner and said it makes a difference, and one guy took half the car apart to put dynamat in the trunk, roof chamber, doors, etc. and he was able to measure a decrease in road noise. As others have said, however, if you want a Lexus-quiet car, a Miata isn't it. Just go test-drive one and see how it treats you.
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Oct 21, 2008 17:48
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Ethyx posted:In regard to complaints about road noise, there are several good threads over on Miata.net that go into detail about using sound-dampening materials to make the car quieter. Some have just stuck some asphalt liner under the trunk liner and said it makes a difference, and one guy took half the car apart to put dynamat in the trunk, roof chamber, doors, etc. and he was able to measure a decrease in road noise. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2651683&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=49#post348566569 I used the butyl based RAAMmat in my car. I've only done the trunk floor board, doors and the main cabin. the trunk got rid of the most drone that I get when I have the hard top on, the cabin eliminated a lot of other smaller noises though.
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Oct 21, 2008 18:27
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The exhaust came today. Can I just say that I loving hate "kits" that make you reuse the original bolts, especially when these kits are designed for 15 year old cars. I can't loving "save the bolts connecting the cat" because those "bolts" are made out of rust. gently caress the $10 savings or whatever and just include the god damned bolts.
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Oct 25, 2008 04:58
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mobn posted:The exhaust came today. Can I just say that I loving hate "kits" that make you reuse the original bolts, especially when these kits are designed for 15 year old cars. I can't loving "save the bolts connecting the cat" because those "bolts" are made out of rust. gently caress the $10 savings or whatever and just include the god damned bolts. Agreed, I've taken a liking to OSH since they carry grade 8 metric hardware that I can use from many things when I need new bolts.
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Oct 25, 2008 05:07
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well, my lifter tick is gone...every last bit of it! I used an "engine sludge cleaner" and then fresh oil + a special additive for hydraulic lifters. now I need to get my seat heaters working and readjust my e-brake. I changed the pads yesterday, following some instructions from miata.net. however, one of the allen bolts was turning kind of weird, didn't turn smoothly. I tightened until the wheel wouldn't turn, then backed it off a bit. did I wreck anything? my brakes are working fine, but I have no e-brake 
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Oct 25, 2008 16:17
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Frank Dillinger posted:well, my lifter tick is gone...every last bit of it!  I don't have any advice brake-wise, but your seat heaters, where did you get them from?
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Oct 25, 2008 17:03
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Is there anything I should do for my soft top in the winter? (it's my first outside florida) I was going to buy a hard top but that seems like an expensive investment if that's my only reason. Also I mentioned it in the stupid question thread but does taking out the alignment bolts affect the alignment if I replace them simultaneously?
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Oct 25, 2008 17:26
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Well, the Racing Beat exhaust is on, and it's actually quieter than my rusty-rear end stock one was pre-hole. It sounds nicer too. And there's this awesome little placebo effect making it seem more responsive. I don't think there's any performance benefit since pre-cat is still the original manifold, which is all the narrower piping. I don't want to put the RB manifold on though, because eventually I want to go turbo, and I imagine an entirely different manifold is required for that.
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Oct 25, 2008 18:31
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Frank Dillinger posted:well, my lifter tick is gone...every last bit of it! Loosen the e-brake handle LOTS. Then do the adjustment to the calipers. Then re tighten the e-brake handle. Worked for me.
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Oct 25, 2008 18:36
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mobn posted:I don't want to put the RB manifold on though, because eventually I want to go turbo, and I imagine an entirely different manifold is required for that.
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Oct 25, 2008 20:28
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destructo posted:Glad to hear your tick's gone They were in there when I bought it, but it's a universal kit by waeco I don't have a clue if they're any good, but once I figure out whats wrong, I'll tell you :P
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Oct 25, 2008 21:06
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destructo posted:Yeep, waste of money, even if you weren't going to go turbo. HP/$ sucks all the dicks on NA parts, Yup. "Higher flow" is utterly useless when an engine is displacing less than 2 litres and it's not FI. I've got to do the suspension before I do engine work though. This fucker is still riding around on the original 136,000 mile old springs and shocks. Those need replacing, and probably the struts too. poo poo, if they made affordable replacements, I'd actually replace the wishbones in the back too. They're rusted all to gently caress.
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Oct 26, 2008 06:23
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UPDATE: well, my handbrake works again, after I went for a spin over some twisty roads  I guess it must have self-adjusted. Its all cleaned up too, so I can finally show it to you guys! Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Oct 27, 2008 18:26
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What signals control the IAC signal on a 1994 miata? Miata idle problems. 94 130k miles My idle takes forever to settle when the engine is warm, and idles very high when cold. When I start my car in the morning, the idle immediately jumps to 2000 rpm, settles within 5-10 seconds to 1500 rpm and stays there until I start driving my car (the most I've waited has been slightly over a minute). After the car warms up ( actually, the temp gauge won't even be at normal operating temperature) the idle will stay high for a time after closing the throttle but will eventually settle. The amount of time it takes to settle varies but usually happens within 5-10 seconds of coming to a stop. Until it settles, it usually sticks around 1500 rpm. When it finally settles, the car might idle at the mechanical rpm (by this, I mean the rpm the car holds when the IAC is unplugged, 850-900 rpm approx) or the idle might be a little above the 1000 rpm mark on the tach. Other symptoms: The car responds kind of oddly to increased loads that the IAC would normally respond to, in particular headlights, A/C, turning on/off the passenger compartment fan. I need to check, in order to give accurate details, but just know that the behavior is a little odd. So, this started when I tried to clean the IAC while troubleshooting a slightly rough idle. I cleaned it according to the article on miata.net. Given the timing of the failure, I just assumed the chemicals I used were to harsh for some seal on the IAC and purchased a used one off ebay. But, the problems didn't go away. Using my multimeter it seems the signal to IAC is the problem, not the IAC itself. The voltage is high, causing the IAC to stay open and keeping my idle high. I believe this is true, because my idle does eventually settle. So, does anyone have a problem area they'd suggest? Or can anyone tell me all the signals the ECU uses to control the IAC?
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Oct 29, 2008 19:08
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I decided to try the clutch made by Spec for 1.6L miatas and the fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheel. The pedal feel ended up feeling MUCH lighter than stock and revs drop a bit quicker than stock. I drove the car normally in day to day driving for the first 200 miles, then drove it a little quicker up until 500 miles. After that I did my first WOT runs with shifts in each gear at redline... When driving the car aggressively (but not dropping the clutch from a stop) the feeling of the clutch pedal changed. After a quick run through each gear there was a VERY STRONG vibration feeling through the clutch pedal (through the entire motion of the pedal), and when I say very strong I mean that it felt like something was going to break. I was nearby my destination so I just stopped there. When I came back (many hours later) I was expecting it to feel the same after starting the car but everything felt normal again. The same thing has happened a couple other times since then... but the last time it happened i came up to a stop light and when I was pulling away after green I slipped the clutch quite a bit in a slow start on purpose to see what would happen and the vibration went away completely! Tonight I was driving and when i came to a stop i couldnt get the transmission back into gear. I turned off the car, put it into 1st, started the car and drove away. The rest of the way home I just rev-matched every gear and didnt come to a stop until I got home. I looked around under the hood and under the car with a flashlight but didnt see anything out of the ordinary. What could be causing this? Could it be faulty clutch materials? Could it be due to a bad install (I paid to have a shop very familiar with miatas install the assembly)?
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Oct 31, 2008 08:04
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I'm having clutch problems, too. Engages/disengages just at the top of travel. Moving from a stop requires a little more slipping than usual. I tested to see if my clutch was shot by going WOT about 35-40mph in top gear, no slip. Is my clutch on the way out, or is this a common symptom of the infamous slave cylinder? I flushed the fluid when I got it last winter, maybe 9-10 months ago, and its black again. EDIT: Found the pedal adjustment guide on Miata.net Garage for those interested: http://www.miata.net/garage/adjust_clutch/index.html goku chewbacca fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Oct 31, 2008 |
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Oct 31, 2008 14:25
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XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:Tonight I was driving and when i came to a stop i couldnt get the transmission back into gear. I turned off the car, put it into 1st, started the car and drove away. The rest of the way home I just rev-matched every gear and didnt come to a stop until I got home. I looked around under the hood and under the car with a flashlight but didnt see anything out of the ordinary. goku chewbacca posted:I flushed the fluid when I got it last winter, maybe 9-10 months ago, and its black again.
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Oct 31, 2008 16:48
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destructo posted:Just for the hell of it, see if pumping the clutch allows you to get into gear, it's always worth checking for a faulty master/slave. I tried and it didnt do anything
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Nov 1, 2008 03:15
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Is there anything in the clutch master cylinder reservoir? They can fail stunningly quickly. Bonus pic of my new acquisition  
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Nov 1, 2008 04:21
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Savington posted:Is there anything in the clutch master cylinder reservoir? They can fail stunningly quickly. And to think that you have the gall to call me a ricer human being. Pot, kettle, black.
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Nov 1, 2008 06:03
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The rear latches look awful. Whats the build quality on that?
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Nov 1, 2008 06:05
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Did you get that from the guy selling the non assembled tops? by the looks of it, i'd say thats ce28n's old hardtop?
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Nov 1, 2008 07:00
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Dicker posted:Did you get that from the guy selling the non assembled tops? by the looks of it, i'd say thats ce28n's old hardtop? Not sure, honestly. The last real owner was a track junkie from Novato. The rear latches do look like total poo poo. I'm going to try to find a set of stock latches and just bolt them down on top of those to make it look decent. Other than that, though, I loving stole the thing (paid $1300, sold my other top for $1200) and it's in pretty nice shape. The clear is a little faded in a couple of places but I've heard some tricks that can bring it back, and my car is garaged 22 hours a day so I don't need to worry about any further sun fading. I am going to do a carbon hood and probably a carbon trunk at some point to match the top. As far as build quality goes, I am seriously impressed. It fits like OEM, both windows are watertight (it's raining right now, actually, and the car is 100% dry inside). The OEM glass and seals fit perfectly. It's a little loud on the highway since the center of the front lip is like 1/8" too high, but it still keeps water out so at that point I'm nitpicking.
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Nov 1, 2008 07:54
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Savington posted:Is there anything in the clutch master cylinder reservoir? They can fail stunningly quickly. Its full and hasnt lost anything in the past year (when I changed the slave cyl)
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Nov 1, 2008 22:16
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Have a friend hit the pedal while you check the slave cylinder. If the slave is actuating the clutch, but it's not disengaging, something's hosed up in the bellhousing.
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Nov 2, 2008 04:11
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Savington posted:Not sure, honestly. The last real owner was a track junkie from Novato. The rear latches do look like total poo poo. I'm going to try to find a set of stock latches and just bolt them down on top of those to make it look decent. Other than that, though, I loving stole the thing (paid $1300, sold my other top for $1200) and it's in pretty nice shape. The clear is a little faded in a couple of places but I've heard some tricks that can bring it back, and my car is garaged 22 hours a day so I don't need to worry about any further sun fading. I am going to do a carbon hood and probably a carbon trunk at some point to match the top. Here tops go for about €300, how come y'all pay so much for them?
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Nov 2, 2008 18:13
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Mo Hawk posted:Here tops go for about €300, how come y'all pay so much for them? I think it's Spec miata that keeps the prices kind of high, but don't quote me on that. You can find them for cheaper, but the cheapest, decent condition(All parts and passable paint, no cracks) hardtop I've seen was still $700 (This is in my area, others it could be cheaper).
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Nov 2, 2008 18:39
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Mo Hawk posted:Here tops go for about €300, how come y'all pay so much for them? Spec Miata racers need hard tops since they're much more aerodynamic than the soft tops. Of course, they're required to use an OEM hard top if they want to do that, so our good friends supply and demand kick in. This is the common explanation I hear, anyway.
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Nov 2, 2008 18:40
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Also, black is a fairly uncommon/rare color and he's in SoCal, so the price just adds up.
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Nov 2, 2008 21:55
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Yo Savington, is that a proper CF hardtop or is it one of those VIS-like fiberglass ones with a CF overlay? Either way once you get the matching Autokonexion trunk/hood it's gonna be awesome.
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Nov 3, 2008 00:51
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Well, we'll see if Mobil 1 will cure the noisy tappets. Clutch checked out, so the grinding noise might have been a fouling heatshield from the exhaust. Had the slave cylinder replaced, and got the acid damage in the trunk POR'd. Next stop, new dampers (shocks to you).
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Nov 7, 2008 22:07
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destructo posted:Yo Savington, is that a proper CF hardtop or is it one of those VIS-like fiberglass ones with a CF overlay? Either way once you get the matching Autokonexion trunk/hood it's gonna be awesome. It's a C-West CF top, never seen one live before though so I don't know how it is.
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Nov 7, 2008 22:11
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Dr JonboyG posted:Well, we'll see if Mobil 1 will cure the noisy tappets. Don't count on it. After having my 96 which ran like a top and never gave me any problems engine wise, the 94 I have seems to be a better sample as to whats out there. Valve ticking seems to be more present during cold weather, but I've been in 4th gear cruising around 40mph and it just starts in. It pisses me off because its kind of annoying, but everybody and everything I come across says its the norm and nothing to worry about. Think of it as one of the Miatas "quirks".
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Nov 7, 2008 23:47
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Phone posted:Don't count on it. After having my 96 which ran like a top and never gave me any problems engine wise, the 94 I have seems to be a better sample as to whats out there. Valve ticking seems to be more present during cold weather, but I've been in 4th gear cruising around 40mph and it just starts in. It pisses me off because its kind of annoying, but everybody and everything I come across says its the norm and nothing to worry about. Anecdotes  edit: 'sup  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. destructo fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Nov 8, 2008 |
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Nov 7, 2008 23:50
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