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QnoisX posted:Yeah, 250r Ninja. It's a Kwaka thing. My ER6n does it, my wifes old GPX did it, my buddies 250 Ninjas do it, my buddies bigger Kawasakis all do it. Maybe some odd shape in the fuel tank vent holes causing the whistle? I'm just guessing here... you'll come to ignore it over time.
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Nov 2, 2008 09:32
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It's funny how close you get to the machine and all its sounds. I found my engine ran much smoother and less vibe-y after I'd filled gas. Like she was happy and content or something. I guess the empty tank acts as a resonator.
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Nov 2, 2008 14:10
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PuntCuncher posted:It's a Kwaka thing. Yeah, it's not really that noticeable when riding down the road. It was sitting in the front yard earlier in the sun just whistling away though... Very strange.
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Nov 2, 2008 17:00
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So....new question. Let's say that you're a dumb rear end and dump your bike over on the gravel at the start of your drive way. What's the best way to fix the paint on your fairings?
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Nov 2, 2008 17:11
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QnoisX posted:So....new question. Let's say that you're a dumb rear end and dump your bike over on the gravel at the start of your drive way. What's the best way to fix the paint on your fairings? Just little dings? Color Rite sells paint pens in OEM colors for cheap. Big scratches? Take it to an autobody shop and have them respray it. Or if you're feeling up to it, you can buy quarts of paint from Color Rite too.
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Nov 2, 2008 17:46
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QnoisX posted:So....new question. Let's say that you're a dumb rear end and dump your bike over on the gravel at the start of your drive way. What's the best way to fix the paint on your fairings? don't fix them for a while, it hurts twice as much to get a respray and ding it up again a few days later. once you're sure your noob mistakes are out of your system then get them fixed up.
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Nov 2, 2008 17:59
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It's a bunch of small scratches from the rocks. Oh and a small dent in my exhaust pipe. I might try the color pen to make it a little less obvious and repaint it next spring when I'll be riding more.
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Nov 2, 2008 18:13
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When it comes to moving a bike, what methods are considered the best? My situation is I own a small car without a hitch and need to move a bike from either Tennessee or Georgia or all the way from New Orleans to Virginia. Would renting a pickup from U-Haul or Penske or something be the best, or maybe buying a hitch and renting a trailer? I'd like to hear what people in my situation have done before. Thanks
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Nov 2, 2008 18:45
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QnoisX posted:It's a bunch of small scratches from the rocks. Oh and a small dent in my exhaust pipe. I might try the color pen to make it a little less obvious and repaint it next spring when I'll be riding more. If you want to go the DIY route, I've read that you should use jbweld to fill in larger gouges, as it is able do deal with the vibration of the bike better.
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Nov 2, 2008 19:55
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Alright, my google fu is failing me today. Can anyone help me figure out what the oil capacity on a 1988 Honda CB450S is? I think it would be marginally different from a Nighthawk of the same vintage, as it has an oil cooler. The amount of oil that I took out while doing the change wasn't any help either, as it wasn't high enough to register on the dipstick 
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Nov 2, 2008 20:24
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My kickstand kind of went limp on me, I have a feeling it might be the spring inside, so I'm trying to take a look inside. Problem is my bikes from 71, so the screws are stuck. Of course I googled first but found nothing more than the standard wd40, and stuff like that. Anybody have any other solutions? I'd rather not spend any more money, but I might end up just getting me a good old fashion impact screwdriver.
philkop fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 3, 2008 |
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Nov 3, 2008 06:05
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philkop posted:My kickstand kind of went limp on me, I have a feeling it might be the spring inside, so I'm trying to take a look inside. Problem is my bikes from 71, so the screws are stuck. Of course I googled first but found nothing more than the standard wd40, and stuff like that. Anybody have any other solutions? I'd rather not spend any more money, but I might end up just getting me a good old fashion impact screwdriver. If you plan to do any work on bikes you really need one anyway. Phillips head engine case screws won't come out easily without one.
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Nov 3, 2008 07:57
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Gnomad posted:If you plan to do any work on bikes you really need one anyway. Phillips head engine case screws won't come out easily without one. Yeah, I'll stop being cheap and make the investment. Any idea why a kickstart could go limp? I'm really hoping its just the spring inside and not something major with my transmission. 
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Nov 3, 2008 08:24
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Yes, kickstart springs do break sometimes.
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Nov 3, 2008 08:37
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philkop posted:My kickstand kind of went limp on me, I have a feeling it might be the spring inside, so I'm trying to take a look inside. Problem is my bikes from 71, so the screws are stuck. Of course I googled first but found nothing more than the standard wd40, and stuff like that. Anybody have any other solutions? I'd rather not spend any more money, but I might end up just getting me a good old fashion impact screwdriver. Kickstand or kickstart? You say kickstand, but describe a kickstarter. As for the bolts, an impact screwdriver is your best bet.
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Nov 3, 2008 15:59
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Sorry, a bit out of it trying to get this thing to work. Yeah I meant kickstart. I can physically bring it back up and it will stay, if i continued to do this to start it would it cause any harm?
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Nov 3, 2008 18:18
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It shouldnt hurt it. Its possible that it just came disconnected, or worst case, broke. The spring shouldnt be expensive, or hard to be replace.
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Nov 3, 2008 20:34
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Simkin posted:Alright, my google fu is failing me today. Can anyone help me figure out what the oil capacity on a 1988 Honda CB450S is? I think it would be marginally different from a Nighthawk of the same vintage, as it has an oil cooler. The amount of oil that I took out while doing the change wasn't any help either, as it wasn't high enough to register on the dipstick You don't have to use the exact amount of oil. What you can do is fill the engine oil until the gauge says it's full. In order to get it right, the engine will need to be warm. Fill your engine up until you see where the line should be, fire it up and idle for a few minutes. If the oil line went down, add more. Edit: only check when the engine is off, obviously.
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Nov 3, 2008 21:53
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If you've replaced the filter, then the level on the glass will lie a little because there's an empty cavity that's usually full of oil. What I do is fill until the glass is full, then crank the engine for a few seconds. Sometimes the oil light comes off, sometimes it stays on. Either way the cranking builds up the pressure and fills the various cavities that don't drain into the pan when the engine stops. Let it sit a little while and recheck the glass, add oil as appropriate. Bonus info: The reason I only crank it instead of starting it is that the first time I did it I started it and the oil light didn't go off. It only ran for a few seconds at idle rpm, but it was very painful for my inner mecha-hypochondriac. Remember to screw on the oil filler cap before cranking or starting. Oil will not splash from my filler hole if it's uncapped, but the owner will feel like a huge dumbass.
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Nov 3, 2008 23:22
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Bonus super fun happy stage: no sight glass. Oh, did I mention that there's some sort of weird rear end setup concocted by Honda so that the ridiculously short dipstick checks the level of the oil on some weird little flat bit of metal (about as hard to describe as to understand why they did it). I'm not too concerned about overfilling it - I put ~2.5L in, and it seemed to bring it up to the bottom of the dipstick. My only other experience with overfilling a bike, was running my GS500 around for a week with an extra litre   Some bikes will try to vomit their oil out if you forget to screw on/replace the dipstick.
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Nov 4, 2008 12:05
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I've been working on my '84 Honda Magna V30 for a few weeks now, and I am starting to get into the wiring. There are a few nagging problems with the information panel lights and turn signals, but what I am most annoyed by is the way the wiring is all crammed into the headlight case. It's near impossible to get everything lined up so the headlight fits properly. Is there any way to remedy this? I realize it's a great help to have easy access to these connections, but if I want to replace my headlight, where would all that crap go?
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Nov 4, 2008 21:08
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Heres a question. Anyone have, or have a good lead on a horizontal Honda motor? I'm looking for a CT70 or CT90 motor.
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Nov 5, 2008 02:27
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I have a 2005 Ducati Monster 620. I changed the oil just under 1000 miles ago. When I got off the bike today, I noticed a white spot on the oil sight glass and moved in to investigate. I initially thought it was on the outside, but it is definitely on the inside. It appears to be a thick, white substance in there with the oil, but I haven't noticed it until now. When I changed the oil I was concerned about the levels and triple checked it. The oil level still displays right in the middle of the two marks on the sight glass, but there is certainly something in there. I just got home and looked at it again, and there were bubbles in the oil, like it was foaming up, which I've read can be caused by too much oil, but I know the level is right, and on top of that I changed the oil 1000 miles ago, and I just am now seeing this. What is going on? Any ideas? Edit: I forgot to mention that the bike seems to be performing beautifully. Nothing but the white spot on the sight glass would indicate anything is amiss. AhhYes fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Nov 5, 2008 |
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Nov 5, 2008 18:53
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AhhYes posted:I have a 2005 Ducati Monster 620. I changed the oil just under 1000 miles ago. like i posted earlier for someones SV650, its probably this, seeing as the monster is air-cooled so there's no head gasket to fail and leak coolant into the oil. echomadman posted:done any short rides in cold weather lately? condensation from inside the engine cases will emulsify with oil and make that milkshake poo poo, if the engine doesn't get up to full temp and stay there for a while it doesn't boil off, my SV's filler cap is always milky these cold mornings because i only have a 4 mile commute now, if i take the bike out and roast it for 20 mins all that poo poo disappears
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Nov 5, 2008 19:21
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Does anyone get Sport Rider Magazine? I'm trying to get my hands on a copy of the issue from this summer with the street-fighter R1 (it was red if that helpss anyone). Anyone want to sell me theirs?
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Nov 5, 2008 19:51
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I might have it at home. I'll send it to you if I do.
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Nov 5, 2008 20:17
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echomadman posted:like i posted earlier for someones SV650, its probably this, seeing as the monster is air-cooled so there's no head gasket to fail and leak coolant into the oil. Nice! That's exactly what it is. I have a 4 mile commute to work, and its been pretty chilly these days. Good to hear that my problem is that I'm not riding my bike enough. I shall have to remedy this immediately.
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Nov 5, 2008 20:18
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How do I store carburetors? I took the two off my RD while I decide how to build it and they are going to sit for about 6 months unused. What steps can I take to make sure they weather the winter fine? I have the same question for a gas tank and a 2 stroke oil reservoir. I have less trepidation towards the res since it has oil coating the inside, but what about storing a tank not on the bike that I plan on sanding and painting?
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Nov 5, 2008 23:46
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Can anybody recommend an insurance company for around the suburbs of New York City?I used Progressive for the past year, charged me $300, a bit pricey, but whatever. Now they want me to pay $400 for the same coverage, so gently caress that. Plus it's 400 dollars to cover a tiny Ninja 250. It just seems kind of ridiculous.
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Nov 6, 2008 08:37
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Lemming posted:Can anybody recommend an insurance company for around the suburbs of New York City?I used Progressive for the past year, charged me $300, a bit pricey, but whatever. Now they want me to pay $400 for the same coverage, so gently caress that. Plus it's 400 dollars to cover a tiny Ninja 250. It just seems kind of ridiculous. Good luck, everywhere I checked wanted $600 for my 250r for a year. Finally just got it on my parent's insurance that they have a bunch of deductions on for $108 for 6 months.
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Nov 6, 2008 09:37
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TheFonz posted:How do I store carburetors? I took the two off my RD while I decide how to build it and they are going to sit for about 6 months unused. What steps can I take to make sure they weather the winter fine? VM Carburators are quite happy to be stored dry. You don't even need to really protect them. You may consider a plastic bag to keep bugs out. CV carbs need a little more care so their diaprhams don't dry out, but that takes years, not weeks. As for the gas tank. There's nothing better at keeping the inside of a gas tank fresh, than gasoline vapor. If that's out of the question, Fog the inside of the tank with WD-40 and swish it around. Cap the tank, and consider it fine for the winter. If that doesn't suit you ;-) swish the inside of your gas tank with oil.
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Nov 6, 2008 10:20
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My bike has been squeaking/squealing terribly the past week or so. It only does it when the wheels are turning so I'm thinking it's either the wheel bearings or something with the brakes. I know squeaky brakes are a common thing, but this sound occurs whether I'm braking, accelerating, or coasting. It's most noticable when I'm putting around a parking lot and gets quieter the faster I go. Yesterday in traffic it felt like something was holding the bike in place, as I could hold the clutch in on an incline, let off the front and/or rear brake and the bike would sit in place and not roll back like it usually does. When I went to accelerate the back would squat down for a moment, which makes me think the rear brake is sticking somehow. When I get home tonight I'll put it on the centerstand and spin each wheel and let you know if I can isolate the sound. The front brake is a disc, the rear is a drum. Anything else I should check that could be an easy fix? greg_graffin fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 16:27
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Nerobro posted:As for the gas tank. There's nothing better at keeping the inside of a gas tank fresh, than gasoline vapor. If that's out of the question, Fog the inside of the tank with WD-40 and swish it around. Cap the tank, and consider it fine for the winter. How dangerous is it to sand and paint with gas vapors in the tank? I like my gas tanks not kaboomed.
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Nov 6, 2008 16:34
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TheFonz posted:How do I store carburetors? I took the two off my RD while I decide how to build it and they are going to sit for about 6 months unused. What steps can I take to make sure they weather the winter fine? Basically, what Nerobro said. You can also fog the gas tank with engine fogging oil. Its a little stickier, than WD40. Either would probably work OK though.
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Nov 6, 2008 16:35
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TheFonz posted:How dangerous is it to sand and paint with gas vapors in the tank? I like my gas tanks not kaboomed. Perfectly safe. Gasoline is much harder to make kaboom than people think. A tank completely full of vapor will not explode. Period. No o2, no boom. Also you're not generating sparks when you're sanding. Now when you're painting... your paint is flammable.... I'd worry more about the potential flamethrower you're holding rather than any gasoline vapors in the tank.
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Nov 6, 2008 19:16
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I've been told that it's okay to slip the clutch on a motorcycle. That's as opposed to a car, where it's not okay, right? Is that just a design feature of bikes (if so, why?) or is it because bikes tend to have wet clutches and cars tend to have dry clutches? What about dry-clutched Ducatis?
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Nov 6, 2008 19:41
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Zenaida posted:I've been told that it's okay to slip the clutch on a motorcycle. That's as opposed to a car, where it's not okay, right? Is that just a design feature of bikes (if so, why?) or is it because bikes tend to have wet clutches and cars tend to have dry clutches? What about dry-clutched Ducatis? I can't address why bike clutches are better for slipping, but dry clutches do serve a purpose: They're easier to change. In fact, GP techs can change clutches on the start grid if needed in a minimum of time. Cover comes off, undo the bolts, swap pack, bolts on, cover on. They do wear faster, though. You can still slip the poo poo out of them though. Also, it's way easier to change bike clutches than it is car clutches, and I'd imagine that has something to do with it as well.
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Nov 6, 2008 19:51
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So you're saying GP bikes have dry clutches? Do racers put dry clutches on bikes that had wet clutches originally?
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Nov 6, 2008 19:56
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Zenaida posted:So you're saying GP bikes have dry clutches? Do racers put dry clutches on bikes that had wet clutches originally? Yes. Sometimes they do. The early GSX-R750R's had dry clutches, while the normal GSX-R750's had wet clutches. There are conversion kits for lots of bikes too. Dry clutches have the singular advantage of not being bathed in oil. That means you're not blowing horsepower slinging oil off the clutch. That's also their disadvantage. Oil bathed clutches wear less. They stay cooler. They are quieter. They have one less oil seal to worry about. Wet clutches rule. :-) Edit: I forgot one last thing about dry clutches. By not being oily, they can be smaller. Smaller clutches have less rotating weight. Less rotating weight means faster acceleration. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 20:01
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I'd personally never bother with swapping a wet clutch for a dry one, unless I was fighting for the top 3 spots or racing at a national level, where it may make a difference. As long as your time off the front runner is measured in seconds and not fractions of a second, you could probably do better by just learning to ride it faster. I've seen GSX-R1100s with dry clutches. I don't think it shows gain for most racers, though. Why replace it with a dry clutch when you could put a slipper on there instead?
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Nov 6, 2008 20:10
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