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Nerobro posted:Yes. Sometimes they do. The early GSX-R750R's had dry clutches, while the normal GSX-R750's had wet clutches. There are conversion kits for lots of bikes too. Interesting. So why is it so desirable to be able to slip the clutch on a bike (Either on the track or the street) vs. a car?
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Nov 6, 2008 20:11
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Zenaida posted:Interesting. So why is it so desirable to be able to slip the clutch on a bike (Either on the track or the street) vs. a car?
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Nov 6, 2008 20:25
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Z3n posted:I've seen GSX-R1100s with dry clutches. I don't think it shows gain for most racers, though. Why replace it with a dry clutch when you could put a slipper on there instead? Zenaida posted:Interesting. So why is it so desirable to be able to slip the clutch on a bike (Either on the track or the street) vs. a car?
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Nov 6, 2008 20:32
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Nerobro posted:Dry clutches can be slipper clutches too. Ya, but typically it's one kit to convert it to slipper and another kit to convert it to dry...just not worthwhile.
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Nov 6, 2008 21:09
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Two stroke question. I've got a bug in my rear end about taking apart my RD. It's pretty much boxes of parts right now but I still have the engine in the frame. I'll probably pull that soon enough. Anyway, I pulled the jugs and heads off to check the pistons which look ok, the right one looks nice, the left is a little charred on the sides, but anyway, while I had the cylinders off I noticed my crank was in a pool of gas. Like literally sitting in a puddle gas up to the top of the crank. This isn't normal right? It's supposed to be a air/gas mixture. Maybe this is why it was running so rich. How do I go about draining this? Thanks.
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Nov 6, 2008 22:36
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For 99.9999999999999% of people out there, dry clutches are a pose-factor thing, due to the noise they make and the "Ooooh spinny things" factor. Hence all the pant leg munching wide-open billet clutch covers for Ducatis.TheFonz posted:Two stroke question. My RD was the same way, not quite as full, but it had a pool of oil in the crankcase (Check valve in the pump stuck open). I just sucked it out with a vaccuum brake bleeder. If you have a crankcase full of gas, it means that your carbs arent stopping the flow of gas properly, and they just drain into the intake, and then down into the crankcase. Theres no oil in there because it happens when the engine is off, and the pump is not running. Really, the only time you have to be really concerned is if there is transmission (motor) oil in the crankcase, as that means your crank seals are shot. Most 2-strokes will start to pool gas if left to idle for a while even. Then you have to rev them pretty good to clear them out. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Nov 6, 2008 |
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Nov 6, 2008 22:41
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Phat_Albert posted:For 99.9999999999999% of people out there, dry clutches are a pose-factor thing, due to the noise they make and the "Ooooh spinny things" factor. Hence all the pant leg munching wide-open billet clutch covers for Ducatis. I find it hilarious when people run those covers and a loving rock gets sucked into it and shot out at high speed. Faaaantastic. I love the muffled jingle of a dry clutch behind an enclosed cover. It's like music playing just for me.
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Nov 6, 2008 23:51
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greg_graffin posted:My bike has been squeaking/squealing terribly the past week or so. It only does it when the wheels are turning so I'm thinking it's either the wheel bearings or something with the brakes. I know squeaky brakes are a common thing, but this sound occurs whether I'm braking, accelerating, or coasting. How dry is your chain? A really dry chain will sound like a big box of mice squeaking when you are rolling at slow speeds. I'd imagine it still makes noise when you are going faster but the wind and engine noise drown it out. A really dry/stuck chain would account for the drag as well.
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Nov 7, 2008 00:11
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Bugdrvr posted:How dry is your chain? A really dry chain will sound like a big box of mice squeaking when you are rolling at slow speeds.
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Nov 7, 2008 00:45
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Lemming posted:Can anybody recommend an insurance company for around the suburbs of New York City?I used Progressive for the past year, charged me $300, a bit pricey, but whatever. Now they want me to pay $400 for the same coverage, so gently caress that. Plus it's 400 dollars to cover a tiny Ninja 250. It just seems kind of ridiculous. I pay $116/yr for my 250. I use State Farm, I live in Upstate Ny, I am also 29 with a clean driving record (no tickets for 8 years). I also have a loan on the bike so I have full coverage, no clue how much it would be with min coverage.
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Nov 7, 2008 01:59
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cmorrow001 posted:Does anyone get Sport Rider Magazine? I'm trying to get my hands on a copy of the issue from this summer with the street-fighter R1 (it was red if that helpss anyone). Anyone want to sell me theirs? I've got it, want it?
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Nov 7, 2008 02:05
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I've been riding for about 4 months now and since I started getting a little more aggressive with my riding I've noticed that the rear end of my bike tends to get a little wiggly when I brake hard before a corner. Should I just use more rear brake? Or should I have a look at adjusting my suspension? The bike in question is a CBR250, I bought it used and it hasn't been modified (other than getting a new exhaust, since the old one was punctured)
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Nov 7, 2008 07:57
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Kyon posted:I've been riding for about 4 months now and since I started getting a little more aggressive with my riding I've noticed that the rear end of my bike tends to get a little wiggly when I brake hard before a corner. Check your tire pressure first, that could cause this and is most likely/cheapest to fix.
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Nov 7, 2008 09:46
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Kyon posted:I've been riding for about 4 months now and since I started getting a little more aggressive with my riding I've noticed that the rear end of my bike tends to get a little wiggly when I brake hard before a corner. 15yr old stock suspension?
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Nov 7, 2008 11:13
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Phat_Albert posted:For 99.9999999999999% of people out there, dry clutches are a pose-factor thing, due to the noise they make and the "Ooooh spinny things" factor. Hence all the pant leg munching wide-open billet clutch covers for Ducatis. Aaaaaaaaa I can't stop thinking about the clutch getting a tiny bit of the skin on my leg, then before I can react it has skinned it and torn a chunk off the muscle 
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Nov 7, 2008 11:27
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Ola posted:Aaaaaaaaa I can't stop thinking about the clutch getting a tiny bit of the skin on my leg, then before I can react it has skinned it and torn a chunk off the muscle Want to never sleep again? Google imagesearch "degloving".
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Nov 7, 2008 11:57
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Phat_Albert posted:I've got it, want it? Definitely. Email me at cmorrow001 at gmail or let me know where to reach you.
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Nov 7, 2008 14:53
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cmorrow001 posted:Definitely. Email me at cmorrow001 at gmail or let me know where to reach you. email sent
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Nov 7, 2008 16:20
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Phat_Albert posted:email sent I somehow didn't get it.
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Nov 7, 2008 17:39
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Like an idiot, I sent it to gmail.c.om, so it should be there now.
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Nov 7, 2008 18:16
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shaitan posted:I pay $116/yr for my 250. I use State Farm, I live in Upstate Ny, I am also 29 with a clean driving record (no tickets for 8 years). I also have a loan on the bike so I have full coverage, no clue how much it would be with min coverage. gently caress you guys. I use State Farm, I'm 30 with a clean record. $1000/year. Three zeroes. For a KZ1000, with only liability. I paid $800 for the drat bike.
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Nov 7, 2008 18:21
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Ha! Wow, at 27 with a not-so-clean record, I pay $240/yr for a 2000 1200 Bandit.
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Nov 7, 2008 19:17
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Kyon posted:I've been riding for about 4 months now and since I started getting a little more aggressive with my riding I've noticed that the rear end of my bike tends to get a little wiggly when I brake hard before a corner. any of these things could be causing it, give a bit more info on the general state of your bikie
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Nov 7, 2008 19:39
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mr.belowaverage posted:gently caress you guys. I use State Farm, I'm 30 with a clean record. $1000/year. Three zeroes. For a KZ1000, with only liability. I paid $800 for the drat bike. Wow, what the gently caress. You need to change insurance companies... My g/f has state farm, clean record, 23, and she paid 400$ a year for full coverage on her 2002 SV.
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Nov 7, 2008 19:49
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I'm 24 and pay $230 a year for full coverage on an 03 SV650 with Progressive. I've had some tickets and accidents in the past, but I think they're all off my record now.
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Nov 7, 2008 20:12
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waptang posted:I'm 24 and pay $230 a year for full coverage on an 03 SV650 with Progressive. I've had some tickets and accidents in the past, but I think they're all off my record now. This is why comparing insurance rates is nonsense. I have almost the same bike, same age, same company, and I pay five times that. Zip code is a huge factor. My insurance went down about $300 when I moved my bike fifteen miles closer to downtown.
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Nov 7, 2008 21:15
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Thanks for the assorted help! I'll have a closer look at my bike when I get home from work.
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Nov 8, 2008 06:09
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Bike insurance is weird stuff. When I was looking at bikes last spring, I narrowed it down to 2 bikes, a Buellysses, or a R1150GS. The price was roughly the same and I liked them both, I almost pulled the trigger on the Buellysses but checked the insurance rates first. Best I found was $800, worst was $1100, full coverage. Full coverage on the GS with Progressive was, and still is, $279. For a 46YO married male with no tickets, no accidents (that I reported) and decent credit. Guess which bike I bought?
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Nov 8, 2008 06:25
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Z3n posted:Wow, what the gently caress. You need to change insurance companies... That is the lowest price I could get in the province. Yeah, Canadian province. Most insurance companies wouldn't even insure me, and the few that do bikes were sky-high. This is totally normal here. I pay less for my car.
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Nov 8, 2008 13:35
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mr.belowaverage posted:gently caress you guys. I use State Farm, I'm 30 with a clean record. $1000/year. Three zeroes. For a KZ1000, with only liability. I paid $800 for the drat bike. I called State Farm to get the same agent as the previous owner, got someone else who then promptly tried to sell me a combo that included life insurance that I didn't need or want. So I said "forget that" and went looking around. I got a great quote from Kingsway through a Southland Broker and went with them, plus they give discounts for having completed a safety course and being a member of the OMA. Of course, I'm taking about a 28 year old 400cc standard, so as always YMMV.
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Nov 8, 2008 16:23
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Location has as much or more to do with rates that driving records it seems like. In NEPA I paid $75 a year on my 350F. My friend with a two year old Z1000? $75 a year. In San Diego the best I could do was $400 a year through State Farm for my GS. Same driving record, no new tickets or anything.
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Nov 8, 2008 20:03
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I think my battery is dead, but I don't want to buy a new one and find out I was wrong. I have a Yamaha XT225 which can be a bit hard to start cold sometimes. The other night it cranked and cranked and I just gave up without actually riding it. I'm pretty sure that's probably what drained the battery. I rode it a few days later though, so I didn't think anything of it. Now when I turn the ignition, not even the neutral light or headlight turn on. I jumped the bike and rode for about 10 miles or so, turned it off, tried to turn it back on... not even the neutral light came on. I push started it and it worked fine but the battery isn't holding a charge. It's a '94 model and I don't know how old the battery is.
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Nov 8, 2008 22:40
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I think this is probably ok, but I want to be sure about it. Can I use this oil in my Honda Rebel 250? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil1_Racing_4T_10W-40.aspx Weight/Viscosity is correct. I have a couple quarts of this and would like to use it. I always used M1 Synthetic in my jeep with good results/luck. As a side question, are synthetics/partial synthetics often used in motorcycles? I realize that even with cars/trucks most people find regular oil to be just fine with proper oil change frequency. . .
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Nov 8, 2008 23:42
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JebattoRocket posted:... Synthetic is probably more the norm for bikes. It's like like 2.3L will cost much, even if you buy mobil1. 
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Nov 9, 2008 00:13
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Krakkles posted:Make sure it doesn't say "Energy-conserving" and it should be fine. It's usually in a little white circle/"donut". Nope, nothing about energy conserving or anything. Small motor on this bike-- takes less than 2 quarts.
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Nov 9, 2008 00:25
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I hear a lot of people saying you need to down shift before you head into a curve. Well my bike (250r) is in 6th gear past 28 mph, well a bit more generally, but that's what the manual tells me. So is it fine that I just stay in 6th all the time unless I need to slow down under 30? I usually lose a couple mph as I enter the curve since I'm letting off the throttle and then gain it back as I power though the curve. This is correct, right? Oh and isn't it pretty pointless to slow down by downshifting on my bike? If I'm rolling up to a stop sign I generally just hold in the clutch and downshift to 1st and use the brakes to stop. That's after letting off the throttle and coasting down in speed a bit. Even in slow traffic it's usually at least 35 mph around here, so gears 2-5 don't get much love.
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Nov 9, 2008 00:28
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You should definitely be in a lower gear at 30 mph. I go up a gear about every 10 mph or so, so I'd be in 3rd or 4th on my bike. It keeps you in the power band, which is good for quicker maneuvers and more engine braking, should you need it. It's not like your 250 is burning so much fuel that you need to worry about a slight decrease in fuel economy.
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Nov 9, 2008 00:46
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Uthor posted:You should definitely be in a lower gear at 30 mph. I go up a gear about every 10 mph or so, so I'd be in 3rd or 4th on my bike. It keeps you in the power band, which is good for quicker maneuvers and more engine braking, should you need it. It's not like your 250 is burning so much fuel that you need to worry about a slight decrease in fuel economy. Well it doesn't bog down if I have it in 6th gear at 30. According to the manual it's: Upshift --------- Downshift 1->2 (12) ------ 6->5 (15) 2->3 (15) ------ 5->4 (12) 3->4 (19) ------ 4->3 (09) 4->5 (21) ------ 3->2 (09) 5->6 (28) ------ 2->1 (09) Just from the sound of the engine I usually shift up a little later. I wait till it changes pitch, otherwise I'd be shifting constantly. It runs fine like that but people keep telling me that I'm shifting too early. Of course my boss is mostly who I talk to about it and he owns a liter bike.
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Nov 9, 2008 01:07
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QnoisX posted:Well it doesn't bog down if I have it in 6th gear at 30. According to the manual it's: Yeah, you are shifting way too early. I usually am in 3'rd while puttering around at 30mph on my '07 250. Even when I was breaking it in I wasn't keeping my gearing as low as you are. If you are breaking it in, it's ok to go beyond what the sticker tells you, Kawasaki uses the same RPM's for breaking in an engine for a bike that has a 7k redline and a 13k redline. Just make sure to vary your speeds/rpms on your rides for the first 500-1000 miles.
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Nov 9, 2008 01:23
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My Kawasaki 500 cc engine has more torque than yours and I have no power at that low of an RPM. Hell, my car has gobs of torque and would be on the verge of stalling if I tried to accelerate like that. The manual state the minimums; you can safely take it much higher. In fact, you should for your own safety so you can move quickly if you need to. Like I said, at easy cruising, I take my speed, divide by ten, and that's the gear I should be in at a minimum (3rd gear at 30 mph, etc). When accelerating, I go much, much higher (75 mph in 3rd)
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Nov 9, 2008 01:59
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