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QnoisX posted:Well it doesn't bog down if I have it in 6th gear at 30. According to the manual it's: I know it's the manual, and all that is holy, but don't listen to it. It's wrong and retarded. That bike needs to be reved out to make power. Let it get warmed up, and shift for casual riding at 7k. For quick riding, shift it at 12-14k. If it drops below 4, downshift to get the revs back up. It's a 250, you'll shift it constantly, it's how those bikes work.
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Nov 9, 2008 09:39
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What should you do during a lowslide? Hug the tank with your legs and let go with your hands until you hit the ground then let go of your legs? Should you just relax and let everything go?
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Nov 9, 2008 23:51
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shaitan posted:What should you do during a lowslide? Hug the tank with your legs and let go with your hands until you hit the ground then let go of your legs? Should you just relax and let everything go? I dunno what you're meant to do, but last time I wiped out the front wheel in the rain, I stayed sat on the bike, with hands on the bars and feet on the pegs whilst the bike was sliding on it's right side, wheels first until I came to a stop on the other side of the mini-roundabout. Then removed my right foot from it's peg, placed it on the ground and lifted my bike into a standing position. Also, wierd question that struck me at 6am yesterday as I was locking my bike up. Why is the kill switch better than turning the ignition off? Is it purely that it's easier to get to and more reliable/more simple therefore less likely to be broken in a crash? I was just wondering because surely if you're wanting things to be turned off because of leaking fuel or whatever, having all the electrics off would be better than just the engine. Or is it nothing about electrics and sparks and more about stopping the engine, thus making sure your legs aren't ground into mince?
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Nov 10, 2008 00:05
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Z3n posted:I know it's the manual, and all that is holy, but don't listen to it. It's wrong and retarded. Okay, I worked on that while riding today. I'll have to admit that if I go with one shift every 10 mph or so it does make accelerating easier and faster. I tooled around town a bit in third and fourth. Oh and one shift every 10 mph is around 6k rpm at each shift. I could hold out longer I guess. I'll have to mess around with it and experiment. The bike is much louder if you keep it at high rpms all the time, but it's still much quieter than most bikes I've seen. I met a guy on an R6 today while fueling up and his bike was loud as gently caress. Anyways, I need to practice shifting some more. I had a couple rough shifts, mostly while trying to downshift and use the engine to slow me down at lights. Do you generally just rev it as you shift and then let off the throttle completely till you reach the next shift point? You can slow down pretty well just doing that, at what point do you start braking? Before I was just holding the clutch in and using brakes to stop while downshifting, so this is a new method of slowing down. It didn't make a lot of sense when going by the manual and not shifting into 5th till 15mph, you're pretty much stopped by then. Sorry for all the questions. Guess I should take the MSF, but it's rather expensive around here and doesn't provide any DMV or insurance benefits.
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Nov 10, 2008 00:25
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Orange Someone posted:Also, wierd question that struck me at 6am yesterday as I was locking my bike up. Why is the kill switch better than turning the ignition off? Is it purely that it's easier to get to and more reliable/more simple therefore less likely to be broken in a crash? I was just wondering because surely if you're wanting things to be turned off because of leaking fuel or whatever, having all the electrics off would be better than just the engine. Or is it nothing about electrics and sparks and more about stopping the engine, thus making sure your legs aren't ground into mince? Well you don't have to move your hand to hit the kill switch, just flick your finger.
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Nov 10, 2008 00:27
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QnoisX posted:Anyways, I need to practice shifting some more. I had a couple rough shifts, mostly while trying to downshift and use the engine to slow me down at lights. Do you generally just rev it as you shift and then let off the throttle completely till you reach the next shift point? You can slow down pretty well just doing that, at what point do you start braking? Before I was just holding the clutch in and using brakes to stop while downshifting, so this is a new method of slowing down. It didn't make a lot of sense when going by the manual and not shifting into 5th till 15mph, you're pretty much stopped by then. Disclaimer: I'm still learning as you are so my advice might not be the best. I use a combination of engine braking and using the brakes while I deaccelerate, but it's ok to do it one way or the other as you feel more comfortable. Most important thing to remember is to stay alive and to stop when you need to stop. Downshifting while stopping will help a lot if you need to accelerate quickly for whatever reason. Also, one tip of advice is to at least put some pressure on the brakes so your brake light lights up to warn people behind you that you are slowing down. These bikes are made for being in the higher RPM range so don't worry about damaging the bike by tooling around in the 7k+ range. Hell, at 70mph in 6'th gear you are pretty close to 8k.
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Nov 10, 2008 01:07
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QnoisX posted:Well you don't have to move your hand to hit the kill switch, just flick your finger.
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Nov 10, 2008 01:38
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shaitan posted:What should you do during a lowslide? Hug the tank with your legs and let go with your hands until you hit the ground then let go of your legs? Should you just relax and let everything go? Let it go. The last thing you want is to be caught up in the bike flipping or being ground down between the bike and the ground. I'm not saying you should bail when you feel the bike start to go, but if it's sliding along the ground and you have a choice, get away from the bike. Try and tuck your limbs in and let yourself slide, you don't want to try and stop yourself because if you start flipping and stuff, you'll be breaking limbs. If you're tumbling, try and get all your limbs tucked in and go with it. Don't put your hands out because you'll break your wrist/elbow. QnoisX posted:Okay, I worked on that while riding today. I'll have to admit that if I go with one shift every 10 mph or so it does make accelerating easier and faster. I tooled around town a bit in third and fourth. Oh and one shift every 10 mph is around 6k rpm at each shift. I could hold out longer I guess. I'll have to mess around with it and experiment. The bike is much louder if you keep it at high rpms all the time, but it's still much quieter than most bikes I've seen. I met a guy on an R6 today while fueling up and his bike was loud as gently caress. Ok, shifting basics: Upshifts: Roll off the throttle, clutch in, kick it up a gear, clutch out, back on the throttle. You want to do the entire sequence quickly enough that the RPMs are matched correctly. So: If the bike is at 7k and will be at 4k when you finish your shift, you want to to roll off the throttle, clutch in and kick it up a gear, and when the bike is at 4k RPM, you let the clutch out and get back on the gas. Downshifts: You're at 4k and you'd like to be at 7k. 2 options: 1. Clutch in, while kicking it down a gear, blip the throttle a small amount to bring the RPM to 7k, and let the clutch out. 2. Clutch in, kick it down a gear, slip the clutch to bring the RPMs up. Blipping takes more practice, but is nice because you've basically always got the bike ready to go. Staying off the throttle and using engine braking is fine, but you want to be prepared to use the brakes as well in an emergency situation. My advice is to go out to a parking lot, and practice getting up to around 30-50mph, shifting up and down smoothly, and then when you've got a handle on braking, practice emergency braking to a stop, both with downshifts and rev matching and just clutching in and kicking it down gears. It's also important to practice swerving, as emergency braking isn't always the best solution in an accident. They say to use the killswitch because in an emergency, your body will default to what you've practiced the most. So if you need the bike off NOW (say, for a stuck throttle) and you take your hand off the bars...bad.
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Nov 10, 2008 02:39
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shaitan posted:What should you do during a lowslide? Hug the tank with your legs and let go with your hands until you hit the ground then let go of your legs? Should you just relax and let everything go? Really, you won't have time to think about this. IF you do have time, just relax.
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Nov 10, 2008 02:48
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QnoisX posted:You can slow down pretty well just doing that, at what point do you start braking? Before I was just holding the clutch in and using brakes to stop while downshifting, so this is a new method of slowing down. I don't have a tach, so I have to go by feel, but I shift down at about the point the engine isn't doing too much work braking anymore. Honestly, I don't pay too much attention to my speed, but down every 10 mph sounds about right (slow down to about 45-50 mph in 6th, first). I generally downshift to about 3rd (sometimes 2nd) before pulling the clutch in all the way, braking, and shifting into first before I stop. However, I still use my brakes if there are cars on the road. Using engine braking does not turn on your brake lights, which does not alert the other drives of you slowing. I don't fully brake; just enough to get the light to turn on.
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Nov 10, 2008 05:57
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QnoisX posted:Okay, I worked on that while riding today. I'll have to admit that if I go with one shift every 10 mph or so it does make accelerating easier and faster. I tooled around town a bit in third and fourth. Oh and one shift every 10 mph is around 6k rpm at each shift. I could hold out longer I guess. I'll have to mess around with it and experiment. The bike is much louder if you keep it at high rpms all the time, but it's still much quieter than most bikes I've seen. I met a guy on an R6 today while fueling up and his bike was loud as gently caress. You need to rev the gently caress out of that bike, plain and simple, bang it off the limiter a few times to see how much you can rev it, i think you'll be surprised. i've never ridden a ninja 250 but my old bandit 250 (inline 4 not a twin) redlined at 17k, i imagine the ninja redlines at about 14k, so you should be shifting between 10 and 12k. adjust down as appropriate. edit, thats for hard acceleration/fun. just pootleing around in traffic shift whenever as long as you're not lugging the engine. more edit: here's what my bandit sounded like(not mine in the video), i miss that bike http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYGxCwvrkSo&feature=related echomadman fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Nov 10, 2008 |
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Nov 10, 2008 19:43
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What kind of issues (if any) would I run into by running a rear shock upside down? I've done some research into what shock I can use to replace my 23 year old original on the GS and found that the Yamaha R1 is the closest match. Both mounting points are eyelets, not eyelet and fork like every other bike seems to use, and is 13 inches in length eyelet to eyelet like the original. Added benefits: it's rebound and compression adjustable. Added added benefits: it may actually do something other than being a holder for a spring like the one that's on there now. I have been looking at my bike and the R1 that parks next to me and it looks like it will fit no problem besides needing to be upside down. Is this a problem?
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Nov 10, 2008 21:32
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echomadman posted:You need to rev the gently caress out of that bike, plain and simple, bang it off the limiter a few times to see how much you can rev it, i think you'll be surprised. I didn't get to ride today, but I'll give that a try next time. Well, when I'm not heading to work at 5am that is... Maybe I can ride around tomorrow while everyone is at work and school. The roads are pretty clear. I'd like to get in a parking lot and mess around, but the only one big enough to really get up to speed is Walmart's and they'd probably call the cops on me if I was riding around practicing braking and turning.
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Nov 11, 2008 02:39
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Bugdrvr posted:What kind of issues (if any) would I run into by running a rear shock upside down? Modern shocks are pressurized. That means they leak a little, instead of get air bubbles inside of them. You can run them upside down without any problems. To mount a GSXR shock on a 83-86 550 you need to run it upside down. Skreemer has done that for a couple years now.
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Nov 11, 2008 03:00
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Has anyone taken the Rider experienced rider course? There doesn't seem to be much info on it other than it's the normal MSF course except with your own bike. I want to take it next year as I'm sure I have some bad habits to break.
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Nov 11, 2008 04:46
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Gnaghi posted:Has anyone taken the Rider experienced rider course? There doesn't seem to be much info on it other than it's the normal MSF course except with your own bike. I want to take it next year as I'm sure I have some bad habits to break. I am interested in this as well.... next year is my third year of riding which statistically is a dangerous year for many people.
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Nov 11, 2008 06:06
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Stupid choke question: my bike ('82 CB650) has always been a bit cold-blooded. The only time she doesn't need choke to start is in the summer, when the ambient temps are up over say 80 degrees. Now that it's winter or close to it, I do need the choke to start her up in the mornings. This is normal, I understand. However, in listening to others' tales of choke, they say that they leave it on full or partially for a minute or two when starting up the bike. I use full choke, but I have to release it about 10 seconds after the bike starts or else it stalls out. Once the bike starts, she's started and I just let her warm up for a minute or two. Is this a jetting issue? I don't think I'm doing any damage as I've had the bike going on 10 years now with no problems other than goo in the carbs, which is probably understandable considering the age of the bike and the need for a severe tank cleaning. If it's something I don't need to worry about then I won't.
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Nov 11, 2008 19:12
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100 Years in Iraq posted:However, in listening to others' tales of choke, they say that they leave it on full or partially for a minute or two when starting up the bike. I use full choke, but I have to release it about 10 seconds after the bike starts or else it stalls out. She's running rich. If you use choke in the summer, it won't start at all right? Or at least run poorly? Once she's running the gas evaporates better and the added choke causes a too rich mixture. Any mods to the intake or exhaust? Air filter clean?
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Nov 11, 2008 19:50
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Choke stuff Every bike seems to have it's own starting pattern. Some need bunches of choke to run for the first few minutes, some don't. If you can get it running on the choke and then idling right away you are in good shape. The idle screws might be set a tad rich as you usually need some choke when cold but I would leave it be if it runs good at all other times and the plugs look nice.
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Nov 11, 2008 19:53
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Ok, Im up to rebuilding the Carby on the AT-1 Yamaha. The issue is, Whats the best way to unscrew the top of the slide housing when the sod is jammed! Soak in carby cleaner? Sheer brute force and a pipe wrench? Blub in the corner "Why me?" Side comment, Is a 86 FZ750 Yamaha worth playing with ? Ive got one which had some timing chain stupidity and kissed the valves. Just needs valves fortunately.
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Nov 12, 2008 01:57
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Kaptainballistik posted:Ok, Im up to rebuilding the Carby on the AT-1 Yamaha. I would try to soak it with some penetrating oil before beating on it. If you take a pipe wrench to it the threads are going to gall up and you will be left with a cruddy paperweight. Spray it, let it sit a few days, spray it again and tap it with a brass hammer around the cap. Then try to unscrew it. Hopefully it will come off happily. If that doesn't work, try the process again maybe with some heat on the cap this time. If that doesn't work, I usually throw them onto the shop floor a few times in anger and then go on ebay to find a good one.
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Nov 12, 2008 03:53
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Can someone tell me what's involved with repairing a dent to a motorcycle tank? Specifically it's a 2003 SV650S in the copper color. The dent needs to be fixed and the tank needs to be repainted. How much does it cost? Would the tank need to be completely replaced?
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Nov 12, 2008 10:41
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It's the exact same as repairing a dent on a car. Depending on the dent, it can be pulled. If you're not fond of bondo, that's what will need to happen, and it will still need body filler afterwords. The tone of the post makes me think you dropped a friends bike. What's the story here. If that's the case, it's best to let the pros handle it. A new tank is $3-500, but you can double check that on www.bikebandit.com Let that be your guide when you get quotes for the bodywork.
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Nov 12, 2008 13:17
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Nerobro posted:The tone of the post makes me think you dropped a friends bike. What's the story here.
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Nov 12, 2008 18:20
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It's almost always cheaper to try and find a good condition used tank, or just buy a prepainted one from a place like bikebandit, if available. Color matched paint and painting is expensive.
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Nov 12, 2008 18:44
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Scrounge on ebay for one too. Then you might be able to sell the old one to recoup some cost
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Nov 12, 2008 18:45
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Ola posted:She's running rich. If you use choke in the summer, it won't start at all right? Or at least run poorly? Once she's running the gas evaporates better and the added choke causes a too rich mixture. No mods, bike is original. The air filter got cleaned this spring when the carbs were taken apart, but a new one certainly wouldn't hurt. I haven't been able to do a plug chop, but I'm pretty sure the bike runs rich due to my altitude (+4000 ft). I was thinking about doing a re-jet this winter among other things. In other news, watch out for wet leaves, kids! Lowsided this morning pulling into a parking space, of all things. One second I was up, the next I was bouncing down the street. I smacked my visor into the pavement, but not the helmet itself. I went and got my coffee, then continued on to work. My gear looks like I got ambushed by a pile of yard waste 
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Nov 12, 2008 19:03
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Leaves are my worst enemy. I can competently ride my bike in snow. I can even handle some ice. Leaves? They are the devil. To the point I have chosen not to ride the last week or so due to so much leaf matter on the streets.
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Nov 12, 2008 19:08
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Nerobro posted:Leaves are my worst enemy. I can competently ride my bike in snow. I can even handle some ice. Leaves? They are the devil. To the point I have chosen not to ride the last week or so due to so much leaf matter on the streets. And this is the real reason I love Southern California...I can't remember the last time I actually saw leaves on the ground 
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Nov 12, 2008 19:14
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Nerobro posted:Leaves are my worst enemy. I can competently ride my bike in snow. I can even handle some ice. Leaves? They are the devil. To the point I have chosen not to ride the last week or so due to so much leaf matter on the streets. Yeah, the streets themselves are ok, it's been rainy and wet but I just ride slower and leave more time for braking, etc. It's the sides of the roads that are a mess, and I did the same maneuver I've done a million times; pulling into the parking space and then turning back left a bit to angle the bike towards the street so I can easily pull out with a good view. Back tire hit the sodden pile (which after studying I found to be about two inches thick) and totally lost all traction. I think had it had even partial contact with the pavement I would've been ok, but there was nothing for the tire to grab and rear end over teakettle I went. Has anyone else's reaction to a minor accident been to stand up and think, "I hope nobody saw that?"
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Nov 12, 2008 19:15
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Has anyone else's reaction to a minor accident been to stand up and think, "I hope nobody saw that?" Yup. Same situation, too...hauling rear end into a parking spot, on the brakes, 2mph, almost to a stop, hit the coating of wet leaves and down I go. 
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Nov 12, 2008 19:17
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100 Years in Iraq posted:
That's my first reaction when I do anything stupid. Well, that is if nothings on fire and I don't need to be rushed to the hospital.
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Nov 12, 2008 19:17
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Whoa! Glad to hear you're ok. If the carbs are constant velocity I'm pretty sure they should compensate for altitude. Plug chops often seem like a chore, but it's pretty fast. Let it idle for a few mins, turn off, look at plug(s). Go for a ride, ride the last 30 seconds or so at constant power (low gear, high revs), flip killswitch and coast into driveway, look at plug(s) again.
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Nov 12, 2008 19:21
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Has anyone else's reaction to a minor accident been to stand up and think, "I hope nobody saw that?" I've not had enough accidents for it to become that routine yet. My normal response is just to get the bike back upright, get back on it, blank anyone who's actually trying to ask if I'm OK, get my kit straightened out, check my organs and limbs are all in the right place, and get going again. That said, I'm fairly lanky so I've had a couple of slips in car parks or at low speed where I can just stick my foot out, yank on the bars and keep myself upright. Which means any minor accidents are slightly more severe than completely minor, apart from the time the bike blew over whilst I was sheltering not 3 feet away. That time was definitely an "Oh poo poo, I just had that bike repaired" moment.
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Nov 12, 2008 19:24
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I wouldn't say I've had enough for it to become routine. I've actually laid a bike down all of 3 times previously. Once was because of gravel (just put a foot down and let the bike slide out from under me - no harm no foul), once I highsided pretty badly when a truck turned left out of a parking lot in front of me (wasn't wearing gear but walked away with just a big bruise on my rear end, lucky stupid me), and then once here in the parking lot at work when some dumb bitch decided to take up both halves of the road around a corner and it was put it down or smash into her car or a cement pillar (took option #1). This was just exceptionally quick, and once I realized I was laying on the ground, I jumped back up and hit the kill switch. Glanced over at the coffee shop and the two people sitting by the windows were still staring at their laptops. I pulled a  and yanked the bike back upright (yay adrenaline). Started her back up, put her at the correct pulling out angle, and then shut her down and went in and got coffee. I was already 2 hours late for work, however when I came in and told my boss I crashed she was all worried about me so tardiness was forgotten 
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Nov 12, 2008 19:41
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I need to replace my back tire on a recently bought 2002 ZX6R, does anyone have any suggestions on what kind i should get? I'm looking to spend around $150. I will mostly use it for city riding, and will definitely be taking it up some crazy curvy roads.
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Nov 13, 2008 00:04
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Silky Thighs posted:I need to replace my back tire on a recently bought 2002 ZX6R, does anyone have any suggestions on what kind i should get? I'm looking to spend around $150. I will mostly use it for city riding, and will definitely be taking it up some crazy curvy roads. Any of the ST tires out there...Pilot Road 2CT, Pirelli Diablo Rossos, etc. You don't need Street/Track tires for street riding.
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Nov 13, 2008 00:11
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So I want to power things off my bike. Is it just a matter of hooking up a fuse box to my battery and plugging things in there? Think GPS/Ham radio/camera/ipod charger type stuff. Also how much can I safely pull from my 250 without having to worry about ending up with a dead battery?
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Nov 13, 2008 00:13
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blugu64 posted:So I want to power things off my bike. Is it just a matter of hooking up a fuse box to my battery and plugging things in there? Think GPS/Ham radio/camera/ipod charger type stuff. Also how much can I safely pull from my 250 without having to worry about ending up with a dead battery?
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Nov 13, 2008 02:00
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CGameProgrammer posted:Are you talking about when the motorcycle is on or off? If the former, it depends entirely on the current of the alternator. If the latter, it depends on the capacity in amp-hours of the battery. Former, I'd just unplug/remove said devices from the bike when it's not running.
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Nov 13, 2008 02:02
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