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I have two questions. First, I know how to drive stick with a car, and I usually blip on downshifts to rev match. Should I do this on a bike as well? Second, I bought a 1982 Honda CM250C for a first bike and it's in great condition, the only problem being the starter doesn't seem to work. The previous owner said he just bump-started it to get it going, which is okay but I'd definitely prefer the electric start to work. The battery works fine so it's not that, and the button makes a clicking noise when pushed with the ignition on. A friend I had with me said it might be the solenoid, but I have no idea what that is. How should I go about diagnosing the problem?
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Nov 18, 2008 19:38
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I have two questions. First: Yes, you can. Not as critical on a bike as in a car, because you can slip the hell out of the clutch on a bike without it being a big deal. But it's a neat trick to have, and a good habit to be in. Second: Is the battery fully charged? That click is the starter solenoid not engaging correctly, usually a symptom of low voltage out of the battery. You can try tapping it with a hammer, or if you turn the bike on, you can manually jump the 2 big terminals on the solenoid (it's at the end of the big wire coming off the positive on the battery). If the bike kicks over when you do that, then you need to replace the solenoid. Otherwise, there's some issue with the starter.
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Nov 18, 2008 19:49
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Nerobro posted:Dirt bikes dont' always have titles. That's not a selling point. Being non street legal vehicles makes titles redundant. They also don't have keys. Just a kill button. It's a Yamaha TTR 225, so a trail bike.
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Nov 18, 2008 20:05
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:First, I know how to drive stick with a car, and I usually blip on downshifts to rev match. Should I do this on a bike as well? I never knew it was the approved practice until someone told me, I just started doing it to make downshift smoother when I was learning (I've found it takes the edge off if you accidentally double shift too, a scary mistake to a new rider at the best of times).
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Nov 18, 2008 20:09
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What is the consensus on oil changes in the winter? My manual says every 5000 miles overall but I've heard that if you ride in cold weather it should be changed sooner, as soon as 1500 miles in some cases?
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Nov 18, 2008 20:41
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LOLLERZ posted:Oh ok. Gnaghi posted:What is the consensus on oil changes in the winter? My manual says every 5000 miles overall but I've heard that if you ride in cold weather it should be changed sooner, as soon as 1500 miles in some cases?
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Nov 18, 2008 21:33
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Nerobro posted:No, the TTR225 is an enduro. Not a trail bike. :-) Yes, it should have a title. And it does have a key. That's worrying then. I'd not buy it. 
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Nov 18, 2008 21:49
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Nerobro posted:No, the TTR225 is an enduro. Not a trail bike. :-) Yes, it should have a title. And it does have a key. That's worrying then. I'd not buy it. I knew it had a key because the seller says he "lost it" and I remember there being one on the TTR250. My dad bought the TTR250 and never bothered to get a title on it. I don't plan on making this bike road legal either, so I'm thinking a stolen vehicle check is probably enough. The seller has wired switches to bypass the ignition switch, so starting and using the bike shouldn't be an issue.
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Nov 18, 2008 22:04
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Nerobro posted:Foam? Rip those off. Buy new grips. Foam = pain. Foam = dirty hands. Foam = cramped hands. Go buy some gel, or standard grips. As long as they're sticky, you'll like them. Is there some authoritative source for handlebar diameter? Google seems to indicate a 7/8" (22mm) handlebar for most Hondas. Sound right? Anyone have a recommended set of gel or standard 7/8" grips, say <$50 which rock? I'll use the linked parts shops above to replace my missing passenger footpeg as well, though it'll be at least a couple months until I can have a passenger without it being likely manslaughter.
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Nov 18, 2008 23:34
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I've never heard of a dirtbike not coming with a title. Without a title in Washington you cannot get ORV tags for it to ride on public lands that allow them.
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Nov 18, 2008 23:59
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Is there some authoritative source for handlebar diameter? Google seems to indicate a 7/8" (22mm) handlebar for most Hondas. Sound right? Yase. I got my handlebars for less than $20. However I neglected to measure the triple tree and consequently had to install them upside down (clubmans)  The brand I have is BikeMaster, bought 'em at https://www.ridenow.com IIRC. They had quick shipping and it wasn't expensive.
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Nov 19, 2008 00:56
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Another question. My '82 CM250C has a weird idle - it dies really easily with the choke pushed in. Even after warming up it seems to die easily. Also, when it idles, the RPM seems to cycle up and down, and sometimes go so low that I have to rev the engine to keep it alive. It's at the point where me cruising in 1st is actually quieter than when I have the engine idling. It also seems that when I'm riding the motorcycle will sometimes not give a lot of throttle response and then all of a sudden get a boost of power. I have no idea how to go about finding the issue other than to mess with the idle speed. quote:You can try tapping it with a hammer Tap the start button with a hammer? FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Nov 19, 2008 01:46
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Another question. My '82 CM250C has a weird idle - it dies really easily with the choke pushed in. Even after warming up it seems to die easily. Also, when it idles, the RPM seems to cycle up and down, and sometimes go so low that I have to rev the engine to keep it alive. It's at the point where me cruising in 1st is actually quieter than when I have the engine idling. Sounds like you need to go through the carbs and clean them out and reset everything to factory. Tap the starter solenoid. Sometimes they can get crudded up internally and not make a good connection, and tapping it with a hammer will sort that out.
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Nov 19, 2008 02:50
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Spartak posted:How do people handle switching to reserve while in motion? My new annoyance is flipping a right-hand petcock for reserve while flying down SoCal's 55 South at 65 mph.
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Nov 19, 2008 03:02
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I have a question of great concern, but I'm not sure if I can explain it in a clear way.. My '99 SV650 has been making some noises. When accelerating from a stop, there's a pop/click that comes from the back end. I can feel it a little with my butt, but moreso with my feet on the pegs. It SOUNDS like something is hitting something else, but it only happens within going from 0-15ish. There's from 1-4 of this pops, and it's scaring me. It happened in both 1st and 2nd gear. Can someone tell me something to look at so I can give a better explanation? I was looking around at my rear wheel and didn't notice anything hanging. Something I can take pictures of to post of and give someone ideas? I don't know a whole lot about moto-maintenance, but I'll whip out my handy-dandy Clymer and check out whatever you guys tell me to look at.
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Nov 19, 2008 18:54
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Anyone have a recommended set of gel or standard 7/8" grips, say <$50 which rock?
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Nov 19, 2008 19:04
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Atomic Hotdog posted:I have a question of great concern, but I'm not sure if I can explain it in a clear way.. Sounds like a hosed up chain.
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Nov 19, 2008 19:16
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Atomic Hotdog posted:I have a question of great concern, but I'm not sure if I can explain it in a clear way..
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Nov 19, 2008 19:36
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Anybody tried driving a heavy bike up and down stairs? I'd like to get my '78 GS1000 into my basement under its own power without breaking the stairs. Handle bars scrapes and wall damage are a non issue. Any thoughts about wood stairs supporting a 500lb+ bike? Any advice? I guess only use front brake going up and rear brake going down, and just slip the clutch like crazy. My bike is pretty torquey.
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Nov 19, 2008 20:14
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goku chewbacca posted:Anybody tried driving a heavy bike up and down stairs? I'd like to get my '78 GS1000 into my basement under its own power without breaking the stairs. Handle bars scrapes and wall damage are a non issue. Any thoughts about wood stairs supporting a 500lb+ bike? post a pic of these stairs, i've seen very sturdy wooden stairs and really poo poo ones. getting it in should be easy enough, might want to make up a ramp out of planks for getting it out. edit: i have seen bikes go up and down wooden stairs, a bike shop in a city near here has an upstairs showroom, the have a permanent ramp up the centre of the stairs (its a u shaped steel channel like a bike trailer would have) they drive all kinds of bikes up there. if you cant drive it out you could always winch it up a ramp. echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Nov 19, 2008 20:22
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goku chewbacca posted:Anybody tried driving a heavy bike up and down stairs? I'd like to get my '78 GS1000 into my basement under its own power without breaking the stairs. Handle bars scrapes and wall damage are a non issue. Any thoughts about wood stairs supporting a 500lb+ bike? Hmm...I dunno if it's possible, but please get someone to record your attempt. One way or another it sounds like it'd make an awesome video. I've seen plenty of folks on tv going down stairs on bikes, but never up them. It might be safer to get some of those thick floor panels and make a ramp. Cut them to the width of the stairs and staple 1 by 4 strips along it horizontally for grip. Of course if the stairs fall in...you're screwed, but that's what the video is for.
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Nov 19, 2008 20:30
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goku chewbacca posted:Anybody tried driving a heavy bike up and down stairs? I'd like to get my '78 GS1000 into my basement under its own power without breaking the stairs. Handle bars scrapes and wall damage are a non issue. Any thoughts about wood stairs supporting a 500lb+ bike? Just imagine how much it would suck if you successfully got it down the stairs and then couldn't get it back up. I had this idea of putting a storm door on the side of my house with just a paved incline instead of steps so I could turn my basement into a kind of bike/engine/big parts garage, that would be pretty cool if you felt like spending the money. Edit: Not a storm door...whatever those slanted basement door things are called. Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Nov 19, 2008 20:47
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I've been putting off the whole helmet thing far too long, for fear of getting a lovely helmet that I'll hate and sell at a loss. But delaying at all was not bright, and delaying further just tempting fate. Sure, the majority of motorcyclists I see in Austin don't wear helmets, but I'd rather let them fill in the stats vice me. That said: Shoei X11, WSYAI:CA?  To one degree, I'm thinking that I might as well get a top-of-the-line helmet, given that even a slight improvement in not scrambling my brains would be worth the money if I smack against an unyielding object. Is this the right way of thinking, or am I spending way too much ($500) for modular/washable padding, DOT/Snell/Shoei safety ratings, and a shitload of air vents? EDIT: All their graphics helmets are uber-lame. Is there any good AI thread or article in adding your own graphics with reflective paint (ignoring resale value)? Can I just get some high-viz reflective paint and have a friend cover a black helmet in white Arabic calligraphy?
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Nov 19, 2008 20:54
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:That said: Shoei X11, WSYAI:CA? When I went to go try out helmets, the two which fit me best were the RF1000 and the X-11. If you like the X-11, try out the RF1000. It's very similar and a couple hundred bucks cheaper. The saleswoman actually sold me the RF1000 over the X-11 primarily due to the cost issue. They're both really good helmets though so you can't go wrong with either.
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Nov 19, 2008 20:58
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Try out the HJC CL-15. I was cross shopping between that and the shoei RF1000. Similar feel and sizing. The CL-15 I got for 57 on clearance online, goes for about 130 retail.
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Nov 19, 2008 21:04
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QnoisX posted:Hmm...I dunno if it's possible, but please get someone to record your attempt. One way or another it sounds like it'd make an awesome video. I've seen plenty of folks on tv going down stairs on bikes, but never up them. It might be safer to get some of those thick floor panels and make a ramp. Cut them to the width of the stairs and staple 1 by 4 strips along it horizontally for grip. I would make a ramp going down the stairs just to distribute the load. Instead of putting the entire weight of the bike on two individual steps, you spread it out over all the steps more-or-less evenly. Of course, if the entire staircase falls down, it doesn't matter if the individual steps don't break, but it's once less thing to worry about.
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Nov 19, 2008 21:05
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goku chewbacca posted:Anybody tried driving a heavy bike up and down stairs? I'd like to get my '78 GS1000 into my basement under its own power without breaking the stairs. Handle bars scrapes and wall damage are a non issue. Any thoughts about wood stairs supporting a 500lb+ bike? This is something I've done several times. First off... No. You won't get it up under it's own power. The stairs aren't wide enough, and with the engine running, you will get roasted. Also the exhaust will be a problem. And fuel issues. You want the bike drained of gas before you even think about bringing it inside. I have a photo essay of how to do this... I've done it several times with GS550's. I'll post that tonight. It's only about 1/3 as hard as you're making it out to be. But there are lots of things you should know first. Keep in mind that three people is 600lbs. Stairs can handle 500lbs without blinking. DO NOT DO THIS until we go through the lessons Skreemer and i learned. TapTheForwardAssist posted:EDIT: All their graphics helmets are uber-lame. Is there any good AI thread or article in adding your own graphics with reflective paint (ignoring resale value)? Can I just get some high-viz reflective paint and have a friend cover a black helmet in white Arabic calligraphy? Helmets have no resale value. Paint them however you like. I recomend stickers though. 3m retroreflective tape lets you do some neat stuff. Also, more expensive helmets aren't any safer. They just tend to do the "nice" things better. That is, they tend to be more quiet, visors fit better, they often have washable liners. And you can be assured long term parts support. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Nov 19, 2008 |
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Nov 19, 2008 21:10
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Don't ride the bike upstairs, just use a ramp, a rope and some pulleys. Edit: Ride the bike upstairs, youtube the result.
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Nov 20, 2008 00:27
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Nerobro posted:Keep in mind that three people is 600lbs. Stairs can handle 500lbs without blinking. DO NOT DO THIS until we go through the lessons Skreemer and i learned. Yea but weight distribution is going to be off. Know any fat people that walk upi your stairs by just touching the edges of each step? Build a ramp and use lots of rope for going down and up. Pretensioning the front brake might also help out a lot going down. It will still move but the bikes weight will be less on the ropes or your arms.
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Nov 20, 2008 02:37
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dietcokefiend posted:Build a ramp and use lots of rope for going down and up. Pretensioning the front brake might also help out a lot going down. It will still move but the bikes weight will be less on the ropes or your arms.
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Nov 20, 2008 03:03
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Just ride the fucker down.
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Nov 20, 2008 03:50
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goku chewbacca posted:*basement bike* Getting the bike down, is the easy part. But it still needs three people. Really you have two options. Going down, so long as you have no quams about hurting your bike, you can just walk the bike to the stairs, and walk it over the edge. Your exhaust pipes will touch down. If you have the stock pipes, the GS will actually balance on them. You'll need your friends to help you with this, as if you don't keep control of the bike it will go careening down the stairs. That's ungood. Once you have the bike tipped over the top of the stairs, the front brake will hold the bike, and you can walk the bike down using the front brake. ... Providing you can get around the bike to do that. Definitely have friends on hand. When we did it, I was in front of the bike, and Skreemer and Terminal Err, were holding the bike back with a rope through the rear shock mounts. Once the bike was tipped over the first step, and slid down till the back tire reached the top of the first step, it worked out just fine. Now if you LIKE your bike. You'll either strap the bike to a peice of plywood and put the bike into the basement the same way as you'll get it out, or remove the exhaust and know you'll have to retouch the paint under the frame tubes. So here's your materials.  What you see there is a sheet of 4x8 plywood ripped to 1" narrower than a door frame. You see four tiedown straps. And a length of soft rope. Now in the following picutres, you'll see the bike switch from a 1983 to a 1980 GS550E a couple times. Skreemer and I both moved our bikes out the same night. Starting off, here's the Preped plywood. We used two 1" diameter holes at the "front" and I put 1/2" holes at the edges near the front and back to tie down the bike.  Here's the completed sled. With the rope strung, and the tie down straps in place. We used one tiedown strap to each handlebar, one over the rear tire, and one tiedown strap going from the front edge of the sled, to a peg to handle the rearward loading. That load is right at the upper limit of the tiedown straps, so I'd recomend using two straps from the front of the sled to the back, just to be safe. It is important that the rope goes UNDER the sled. That stops the edge of hte sled catching the treads.  To get the bikes through the door, we had to remove the door.  This is the view from the top.  Here's the rig ready to go. With Skreemers bike on board. The front to back strap is on the other side of the sled.  And here's hte view from the top, with my bike on the sled. Those ropes are the key.  Here's our tow vehicle. Yes, we used a Saturn Vue to haul the bikes out on this occasion. At a later date we've done it with two able bodied people. This time we were also hauling two complete bikes out of the basement.  Up he goes. As the bike goes up, keep care, and pay close attention to headroom. Once the bike crests the top of the stairs, it's going to tip quickly.  Skreemer guiding my 80 up the stairs as I very slowly tow the sled up with the Vue.  I didn't get any shots of unloading the bike from the sled. But here's the aftermath. The sled would fit through the doors, however, with the tiedown straps on the sled, it wouldn't fit through the door.  The sled works both ways. We've used it to move bikes missing forks and other bits into the basement. Oh yes, those black marks on the carpet, are from sliding the exhaust along the carpet on the way into the basement... Yeah, don't do that. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Nov 20, 2008 |
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Nov 20, 2008 03:55
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Bravo. Thank god for sliding doors and above ground basements.
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Nov 20, 2008 07:15
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Without a fancy rig, I would assume it would be easier to maneuver down the stairs backwards, with the handlebars at the top for support. A friend at the tail, and one in front holding the bike would seem useful as well. Just a thought.
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Nov 20, 2008 19:28
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I've gone solo backwards down the stairs with the RV90 before. It works, but I wouldnt suggest it with anything bigger.
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Nov 20, 2008 19:32
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mr.belowaverage posted:Without a fancy rig, I would assume it would be easier to maneuver down the stairs backwards, with the handlebars at the top for support. A friend at the tail, and one in front holding the bike would seem useful as well. Just a thought. Hmm, personally, thinking about it, if I were doing this, I'd rather the bike went down forwards with a rope attached to the back for someone (or multiple someones) at the top of the stairs to hang on it. Bikes are a lot easier to steer forwards, and it going down backwards means the more accessible brake is going to be at the back, meaning it's a lot more likely to lock and skid. Maybe some sort of ratchet like you get on a chain hoist, though that would need something solid to secure to. I might be overthinking this. It's a bad habit of mine.
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Nov 20, 2008 19:42
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dietcokefiend posted:Try out the HJC CL-15. I was cross shopping between that and the shoei RF1000. Similar feel and sizing. The CL-15 I got for 57 on clearance online, goes for about 130 retail. Having just purchased a CL-15 for my girlfriend I would advise against getting one if you have the money for a better helmet and are going to be riding a lot. The shell feels like (and is) extremely thick plastic, it doesn't carry its weight well, and it has all of 2 detents for the visor. It is definitely a beginner's helmet. The CL-SP might be a bit better but I haven't spent much time with it. Additionally, HJC liners aren't exactly comfy, though in my opinion neither are Shoei's. I may be a bit biased but I wear an Arai and I have never regretted the money I spent on it. If you can afford something with a fiberglass-like shell and a comfy liner then go for it.
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Nov 20, 2008 20:34
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Quick question guys: Last night decided to check my tire pressure for the first time on my 88 zx600. From the second I unscrewed the cap the valve core was going all "shhhhhhhhh" leaking air. I could add air faster than it was coming out, but obviously I need to fix this. The core tip sits above the stem, whereas the rear tire one is recessed about 1-2mm. Could the problem be that it wasnt correctly seated? Can I replace the core myself without dismounting the tire from the rim? My motorcycle guru buddy at work successfully put the fear of god into me talking about rapid front tire airloss at highway speeds, so I want the quickest and safest fix possible. If I take it to a shop I am getting new tires installed. If I do it myself it will be just the core until next season.
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Nov 20, 2008 20:53
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dietcokefiend posted:the valve core was going all "shhhhhhhhh" Go to an auto parts store or WalMart and get a pack of valve cores and the tool for installing them. It shouldn't cost more than $10.
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Nov 20, 2008 21:33
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bung posted:Go to an auto parts store or WalMart and get a pack of valve cores and the tool for installing them. It shouldn't cost more than $10. My car did that the first time I went to put air in. The core was just loose and I didn't even need a new one.
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Nov 20, 2008 21:45
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