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So I finally purchased a one piece suit. http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/sport/motorcycle+rain+gear/fieldsheer_highland+ii+1-piece+textile+suit My question is mainly about the knee pads. I've never actually owned a set of knee pads for anything before, so I'm not familiar with them at all. When I'm on the bike, it feels like my knee is completely cupped by the pad - is this normal? It isn't uncomfortable, just strange. Additionally, I seem to slide around on the seat quite a bit more now; is there anything I can do to reduce that?
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# ? Nov 20, 2008 22:11 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 16:33 |
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Go faster Err.. seriously, though, just try to be a bit more consciencious about squeezing your knees together on the fuel tank.
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# ? Nov 20, 2008 22:16 |
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laymil posted:So I finally purchased a one piece suit. Yes, the armor should cover your knee completely. You can slide around more because the textile slides better. It'll get dirty or you'll adjust. Don't use armorall on your seat.
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# ? Nov 20, 2008 22:16 |
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Z3n posted:Yes, the armor should cover your knee completely. Thanks. It's a weird feeling compared to jeans, but it certainly is quite a bit warmer in freezing temperatures. Now to just finish painting the bike...
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# ? Nov 20, 2008 22:50 |
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Z3n posted:Don't use ArmorAll on your seat.
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 00:56 |
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Has anyone looked into using an amtrak service for travelling with a motorcycle without the bother of huffing it long distance on your own wheels and squaring off the tires? I want to go to LA from Seattle and imagine that amtrak would be able to do this but haven't seen anything on their website about it. Blablah yeah I know I'm a pussy but has anyone done this before?
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 02:57 |
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GriszledMelkaba posted:Has anyone looked into using an amtrak service for travelling with a motorcycle without the bother of huffing it long distance on your own wheels and squaring off the tires? I want to go to LA from Seattle and imagine that amtrak would be able to do this but haven't seen anything on their website about it. There are bike shipping services. Most of them use trucks from what I gather. Also, not so cheap. I paid $700 each way when I went from Atlanta to Sacramento for an internship.
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 16:16 |
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The NonBornKing posted:$700 each way when I went from Atlanta to Sacramento for an internship. If you've got any friends at a company that does a lot of truck shipping, try that route. I work for a playground manufacturer and considering our long shipping history with a few different carriers, I got a honda rebel (~300lb) shipped from WI to GA for just over $200 through Roadway. edit: from a dealer so I got a steel crate and ratchet straps out of the deal as well As for my question, how much valve tick ('08 rebel) is too much? I did my valve check and adjusted to spec at 600 miles (~2900 now), and it seems to have developed a tick. I don't think it's gotten any louder, and it may be just paranoia convincing me that it sounded different before. All four valves were set in the middle of spec, and since I think I'm going to go ahead and recheck them this weekend, should all 4 be the same? Should I have my exhaust slightly wider than my intake? The bike runs just fine. Lately it's been in the 30-50F range, so when I don't let it warm up long enough I notice that the throttle is really sluggish for the first few miles, especially after rolling off quickly and then back on, but that's pretty expected at these temperatures, right? Handiklap fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Nov 21, 2008 |
# ? Nov 21, 2008 16:35 |
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Well I got one guaranteed offer from a friend (albeit with friend discount) for my Triumph and three people coming to look at the thing this weekend. That means next week is DRZ shopping time. I know the things will outlive cockroaches after the apocalypse, but is there anything in particular I should be double checking on them other than the usual motorcycle stuff?
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 18:01 |
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For DRZ's maintenance wise I haven't heard chatter about any 'watch out for's when picking up a used one. They could be out there, and the place that would know is Thumpertalk's DRZ forum. I'd take a good, obsessive look and feel over the spokes. In some cases after the first few thousand miles the spokes can loosen a bit and if not addressed can become damaged. You'll want the oil to have been changed with filter every few thousand miles obviously, and ask the owner if they've done the airbox mod (cutting a 3x3 hole in the airbox to improve airflow under the seat). You'll want it to have been done eventually, as its standard practice in getting the guts out of that engine. Yosh full system is agreed as just about the best you can hope for, runner up is just about anything paired with the FMF power bomb header. If they've done a jet kit, DnynoJet is about the best you could hope for. Uhm... I can't really think of anything else.
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 18:36 |
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So after sitting outside for several weeks I decided to move my bike inside for the winter. PROBLEM!!! I was able to get the bike started with full choke and let it warm up for about 5 minutes idling, but everytime I try to disengage the clutch the engine dies??? I have no idea what the hell is up. I tried stopping and starting, removing and replacing the key, shifting to neutral and back, I simply can't get the bike to move in 1st gear because it dies everytime I try to go. I can't let it sit where it is so my options are renting a trailer unless you guys have any idea why my bike kills itself when I try to declutch. I have a 2000 Ninja 250. I appreciate everyones help as I'm kind of desperate right now. Edit - for what it's worth, it feels like some sort of kill switch is engaging everytime I declutch. It's not a gradual engine kill, it's immediate (like hitting the stop switch). The kick stand is up in every instance.
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 19:47 |
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is your sidestand down? IIRC kawasaki's have neutral cutout switches. As long as the sidestand is down (or the bike think's it is down) the bike will not run in gear. Pick the sidestand up, and try it again.
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 19:50 |
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Nerobro posted:is your sidestand down? IIRC kawasaki's have neutral cutout switches. As long as the sidestand is down (or the bike think's it is down) the bike will not run in gear. I tried it with the sidestand up and down, and turning the bike off and putting the stand up and down, and starting it again - I tried every combination of actions I could think of to reset any type of sidestand kill switch, and no luck. Does it just need to warm up longer? I warmed it up to where I could turn choke off entirely.
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 19:51 |
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It might be possible that being on the stand so long without moving made the switch get stuck?
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 20:05 |
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dietcokefiend posted:It might be possible that being on the stand so long without moving made the switch get stuck? Is there anyway I could check this manually or is it some sort of internal switch? Edit - Found some information on ninja250.org about this, I will check it now, thanks! Edit 2 - The switch was stuck! I had to use pliers to pull it out... I think when I fire up the bike this summer, disabling that switch altogether will be the first thing I do. The Shep fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Nov 21, 2008 |
# ? Nov 21, 2008 20:07 |
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Nerobro posted:is your sidestand down? IIRC kawasaki's have neutral cutout switches. As long as the sidestand is down (or the bike think's it is down) the bike will not run in gear. I killed a battery twice in a row this spring because of that.
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 20:34 |
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Cmdr. Shepard posted:Is there anyway I could check this manually or is it some sort of internal switch? Ahem. Don't remove the cutout. Lube it up, get it fixed, but it's a very simple thing that could save your rear end from an easy mistake to make that could put you on your rear end. Out of habit, I check my kickstand multiple times, both when stopping and starting the bike...I always take my foot from the ground to the peg in a fashion that would make it collide with the kickstand, just in case I've forgotten to put it up, and I brace my foot against the kickstand when I get off the bike (on bikes where that's possible) to make sure it's down. Until I started doing that, every so often I'd have a false start.
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# ? Nov 21, 2008 22:00 |
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Z3n posted:Ahem. Don't remove the cutout. Lube it up, get it fixed, but it's a very simple thing that could save your rear end from an easy mistake to make that could put you on your rear end. I'm agreeing with this. I'm still working on it for me, but there have been at least 4 times I've gotten my gear on, kicked it in gear, and had the bike die - and wondered why. It took me a couple seconds to realize that switch had saved my rear end each time. Edit: If it doesn't work at all, buy a new one. It's 37.09 from bikebandit. Part # 27010A Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Nov 21, 2008 |
# ? Nov 21, 2008 22:08 |
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pr0zac posted:Well I got one guaranteed offer from a friend (albeit with friend discount) for my Triumph and three people coming to look at the thing this weekend. That means next week is DRZ shopping time. I know the things will outlive cockroaches after the apocalypse, but is there anything in particular I should be double checking on them other than the usual motorcycle stuff? I think a few of the earlier years had a problem with the cam chain tensioner, but that might have been before the SM came about, I cant really remember and thumpertalk is definitely the best way to find out. Alot of people swap to manual one, the on the newer years are fine with the Automatic one from the factory.
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# ? Nov 22, 2008 03:25 |
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UPDATE on the 93 Kawasaki ex-500 electrical problem: I swapped the ignition coils with a friend's ran the bike for about an hour with no problems. I'm going to leave them in for a few days and ride around to make sure, but it looks like I found it finally. Cmdr. Shepard posted:I tried it with the sidestand up and down, and turning the bike off and putting the stand up and down, and starting it again - I tried every combination of actions I could think of to reset any type of sidestand kill switch, and no luck. This is anecdotal, but my friend's bike had this problem and ended up needing a new kickstand switch as well. This is on a newish cbr 600. I wouldn't disable it except just to test. I imagine bad things happen if you go around a corner with the kickstand fully extended, like throw your on your rear end.
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# ? Nov 22, 2008 07:59 |
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I put up something in the gear thread, but haven't gotten any interest. I have one of those 10% of coupons for newenough.com if anyone wants it.
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# ? Nov 22, 2008 18:42 |
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What is a good USDM alternative to the VF400F? I watched this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTO2s7wyrFs and now I want one. Good handling, nice engine whine because of the cam gears. Wiki says it has a good powerband too.
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# ? Nov 22, 2008 22:21 |
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Asked this in the newbie thread as well, but I really need better side mirrors for my 1988 ZX600. I cant see poo poo past my shoulders from my larger frame. Pants making GBS threads experience the entire time I took it out on the state highway off the small town I live in not being able to see if someone was behind me. Ugh
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# ? Nov 22, 2008 22:37 |
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dietcokefiend posted:Asked this in the newbie thread as well, but I really need better side mirrors for my 1988 ZX600. I cant see poo poo past my shoulders from my larger frame. Pants making GBS threads experience the entire time I took it out on the state highway off the small town I live in not being able to see if someone was behind me. Ugh I have to lift my arm up a bit to see the traffic right behind me. Overall I wish I had bigger and farther out mirrors too.
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# ? Nov 22, 2008 22:41 |
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You can find bar end mirrors. There are also riser blocks for the stock mirror stalks.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 00:31 |
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Anyone ever had their license plate fall off? Yeah...mine either fell off on my way home or someone stole it. My bike was parked facing the building, so I didn't check to see if it was there before I left, but it's definetly not there now. No plate, no bolts, nothing. I used the same bolts that the previous owner had his plate secured with and he rode it for 1800 miles and it stayed put. I've had it just over 200. Anyways, what do I do now? Head up to the court house Monday and buy a new one? Should I report my old one lost or stolen so someone doesn't put it on their bike and rack up some tickets for me? Guess I'll be driving the car to work tomorrow.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 00:41 |
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QnoisX posted:Anyways, what do I do now? Head up to the court house Monday and buy a new one? Should I report my old one lost or stolen so someone doesn't put it on their bike and rack up some tickets for me? Report it as stolen and go to the DMV for new a plate.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 04:28 |
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QnoisX posted:Anyone ever had their license plate fall off? I lost one of my plate bolts somewhere. I rode around with the license plate hanging straight down from the remaining one for who knows how long. It was probably like that for several weeks before I noticed.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 05:19 |
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Don't report it as stolen...just go into the DMV, let them know it came off on the freeway, and they'll issue you a new one. If you report it as stolen, they'll probably want a bunch of details that you won't be able to provide. If you just tell them it came off, you'll just tell them that it came off and that should be that.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 06:25 |
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Z3n posted:Don't report it as stolen...just go into the DMV, let them know it came off on the freeway, and they'll issue you a new one. If you report it as stolen, they'll probably want a bunch of details that you won't be able to provide. If you just tell them it came off, you'll just tell them that it came off and that should be that. Depends, if you list it as lost/stolen they will issue a new number so someone else cant pick it up off the street and use it. I would never want my plate on someone elses car if only by a small chance.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 06:42 |
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dietcokefiend posted:Depends, if you list it as lost/stolen they will issue a new number so someone else cant pick it up off the street and use it. I would never want my plate on someone elses car if only by a small chance. This isn't about a motorcycle plate but my fiance's parents started receiving hefty toll charges from the 407 toll road a year or two back because of a lost plate. Eventually the police caught them but it was a huge hassle until then.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 09:20 |
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8ender posted:This isn't about a motorcycle plate but my fiance's parents started receiving hefty toll charges from the 407 toll road a year or two back because of a lost plate. Eventually the police caught them but it was a huge hassle until then. The 294 tollway through IL came to mind and I almost had cold sweats about someone taking my plate. Those fines are insane.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 09:34 |
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darknrgy posted:What is a good USDM alternative to the VF400F? I watched this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTO2s7wyrFs and now I want one. Good handling, nice engine whine because of the cam gears. Wiki says it has a good powerband too. Honda sold the VF500F to the US and Canada in the 80s. The VF400R is a little more sport focused, I think, but that's as close as you're likely to get without going to a grey market bike. They're nice little bikes, if you can find them, and perfect for people learning to ride (well, other than having plastics to potentially damage).
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 10:14 |
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Well the DMV doesn't handle license plates around here. We have to go to the county court house. They won't be open till tomorrow, so I'll go then and report it missing. Lost or stolen doesn't matter much since it's the same result I suppose. I'm hoping as someone else suggested that one of my co-workers took it off as a joke. They've already been making fun of me for riding my bike to work in the cold weather. It was 19 degrees yesterday morning on the way to work. Otherwise I dunno how it fell off, I just put it on a few weeks ago. Maybe the fender eliminator bracket just sucks. I'll be sure to use some thread lock next time....or super glue.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 11:26 |
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My plate fell off, but I went back over the route I took and was lucky enough to find it again. I reattached it with some zip ties - it ain't comming off now.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 14:31 |
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Charun posted:My plate fell off, but I went back over the route I took and was lucky enough to find it again. I reattached it with some zip ties - it ain't comming off now. Haha that just gave me a great idea. When I first got my plate the thing vibrated off while warming up on my driveway . Since then I have put better lock washers on it, but I think I have something to loop the bottom holes through to lock it in place. At least if I lose a screw or 2 it will only dangle.
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# ? Nov 23, 2008 18:56 |
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Charun posted:My plate fell off, but I went back over the route I took and was lucky enough to find it again. I reattached it with some zip ties - it ain't comming off now. Yeah, didn't find mine. But it could have been stolen instead of falling off, so dunno. I'm probably going to use some Loctite and maybe two nuts when I get a new one. Though zip ties might be a better plan. Do you get a new sticker every year with bikes or do you have to replace the whole plate?
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# ? Nov 24, 2008 00:23 |
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Hey, so it's about 30-35 degrees here now and my bike won't start anymore. (1982 GS750E) When it was warmer, it would start fine with full choke, and idle without choke no problem. However, it was definitely running rich at the time. Now, it won't start at all, even on full choke. It cranks fine, but doesn't turn over. I was able to push start it once, but now push starting won't work either. (the time I push started it, once the bike warmed up, it was starting fine without choke) Is this related to the running rich condition? I figured that with cold air and a cold engine, you would actually need MORE fuel than usually to get the engine to start, which is why I'm surprised that a rich condition would cause this to happen. Any ideas? How should I proceed? I'm guessing thoroughly overhaul the carbs, which I was putting off for a while, but now it seems like I have no choice.
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# ? Nov 24, 2008 00:54 |
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Um... if you needed full choke to start. It wasn't rich. Colder air is denser, making the lean condition worse. This starting problem began with a weak battery, and now is a dead battery. Jump start the bike. Despite being lean, it should still start. Rebuilding carbs rarely makes them leaner, it will only make them richer. Which you seem to indicate you need. Now, DO NOT take the individual carbs off the rails, do NOT touch the sync adjuster screws. it just leads to pain.
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# ? Nov 24, 2008 01:15 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 16:33 |
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I have a battery charger, I tried to start it with a fully charged, room temperature battery. No dice. I can't push start it either, which I used to be able to do before without a problem. When the bike is running, it was getting about 34 mpg instead of the 48 or so that it should get, and there's a definite smell of unburned gas. As far as I can tell, all 4 cylinders were firing. What you're saying makes sense, which is why I'm confused.
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# ? Nov 24, 2008 02:29 |