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Motorcycles are like cocaine. an ex250 is too much A Hayabusa is never enough
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Dec 12, 2008 09:28
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| # ? May 15, 2024 01:39 |
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QnoisX posted:Just finished applying some rim tape to my bike. Anyone have any issues with this stuff peeling off while you're riding down the road? It shouldn't, but I just wondered if I should be worried. Oh and here's a pic! I had tapeworks rimtape on my GSXR, and just for kicks one day I tried to peel a bit off to see how well it stuck on. It was pretty much completely bonded to the wheel. I wouldnt worry about it falling off. If you applied it on a clean wheel, it will be fine.
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Dec 12, 2008 15:23
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Is there anything extremely expensive or hard to fix with this bike? Seems too good to pass up http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/mcy/953760517.html
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Dec 12, 2008 17:19
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I think those bikes had cam issues, but someone more knowledgeable about VFR's will have to chime in here.
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Dec 12, 2008 17:47
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moist turtleneck posted:Is there anything extremely expensive or hard to fix with this bike? Seems too good to pass up That looks like a really, really fair asking price for one of those, especially considering the mileage and apparent condition. I fixed one up for a friend for his first bike, and although it does have a maddening amount of unnecessary complexity - yay superfluous fuel pump, hydraulic clutch and pneumatic suspension - I didn't find it all too troublesome to work on. A valve adjustment was actually easier than it was on my ZR-7S, by virtue of the adjustments being done with a nut and threaded perch, rather than shims. The main problem I had getting it going was finally traced back to a faulty petcock, and once that was sorted, it started and ran reasonably well, despite the fact that two of the exhaust valves weren't opening or closing  Carbs for that bike are retardedly expensive, though, so if you're really concerned, I'd see if you could take it to a mechanic for a PPI, or take along someone who knows more about carbs than you do, just to make sure that it's a matter of adjustment, rather than something necessitating a new set (or rebuild).I've heard of problems with cams, but the bike I fixed up had 75,000km on the clock and was still on its original set, so...... go for it. Edit: Whale tails kick rear end.
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Dec 12, 2008 17:57
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For what it's worth I was a heartbeat away from jumping on this deal http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/899940173.html a few weeks ago; however after reading up a bit on vfrworld, apparently some of the parts are starting to get really hard to find. They look awesome though, esp. in the tricolor scheme.
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Dec 12, 2008 18:05
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Hey guys, sorry if this was already asked. I skimmed but I may have missed something. I have a 08 V-star 250 with low mileage that I got over the summer, but I go to school a couple hundred miles away and I haven't been able to ride it all semester (Total bummer.) I leave for winter break on tuesday and I was wondering if there is anything I should check on the bike or do to A) Get it winter-ready and B) Make sure it works because it's been sitting in my parent's basement for three months.
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Dec 13, 2008 05:08
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Very basic question: when I release the throttle, should it go back to closed just from spring tension, or should it take a slight movement on my part to move it from open to closed?
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Dec 13, 2008 05:36
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Very basic question: when I release the throttle, should it go back to closed just from spring tension, or should it take a slight movement on my part to move it from open to closed? It should roll off by itself when released. Sounds like your throttle needs to be adjusted, else the cable may be stretched out.
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Dec 13, 2008 05:57
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Ghost of Razgriz posted:It should roll off by itself when released. Sounds like your throttle needs to be adjusted, else the cable may be stretched out. Also possible that it just needs to be lubed.
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Dec 13, 2008 05:59
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Very basic question: when I release the throttle, should it go back to closed just from spring tension, or should it take a slight movement on my part to move it from open to closed? It should SNAP shut. Not "slowly" not "after a while" it should SNAP shut. If it does not, you need to figure out what's wrong. If it's to the point it's sticking, I'd replace the cable entirely. Slow/no return was the symptom of a frayed cable on my 1980 GS550.
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Dec 13, 2008 06:17
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Nerobro posted:It should SNAP shut. Not "slowly" not "after a while" it should SNAP shut. If it does not, you need to figure out what's wrong. If it's to the point it's sticking, I'd replace the cable entirely. Slow/no return was the symptom of a frayed cable on my 1980 GS550. Just to add a bit here for people who are wondering how to deal with this: There are 4 reasons that your throttle could be not returning: 1. Damaged or unlubed cable. 2. Cable's routed wrong and is pinching/sticking. 3. Grime under the handlebar. 4. Carbs aren't snapping shut. They're listed in order from most common in my experience to least common. Obviously, a damaged or unlubed cable is fixed by replacing or lubing it. Pinching is best tested for by getting the carbs hooked up to the throttle, checking that it closes, and then adding parts until it sticks. Grime under the handlebar should be cleaned. If the carbs aren't snapping shut, chances are they're caught up on something, so get down there and manually open and close the butterflies until you have some idea of what is going on/what they're hanging on.
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Dec 13, 2008 18:07
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I have a 2006 Honda VTR250, it runs perfectly and I am extremely happy with it (first bike). However, I noticed today that the small fan behind the radiator doesn't spin. Not sure what it does at speed, but when it was idling at a stop, the fan was not spinning at all. The temp gauge was right in the middle after about a 15 minute commute back from work. Is this normal? Does the fan only kick in when the temperature starts to get higher?
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Dec 15, 2008 11:23
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Vidaeus posted:Does the fan only kick in when the temperature starts to get higher? Yup! Which is a good thing since it saves electrical load and keeps the engine in the proper temp range.
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Dec 15, 2008 14:23
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The fan on all the liquid cooled bikes I've owned didnt kick in until they were really hot (idling for a while, or in stop and go traffic)
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Dec 15, 2008 15:54
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Vidaeus posted:I have a 2006 Honda VTR250, it runs perfectly and I am extremely happy with it (first bike). However, I noticed today that the small fan behind the radiator doesn't spin. Not sure what it does at speed, but when it was idling at a stop, the fan was not spinning at all. The temp gauge was right in the middle after about a 15 minute commute back from work. Is this normal? Does the fan only kick in when the temperature starts to get higher? Check your coolant level, but it's only supposed to spin when it gets really hot.
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Dec 15, 2008 17:34
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unless it's a buell, in which case it's on all the time, and is so loud you can't hear approaching fire trucks.
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Dec 15, 2008 18:02
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Well, they have to catch you to put you out, right? 
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Dec 15, 2008 19:06
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Yeah, I thought that was the case with the fan. Thanks for confirming my thoughts!
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Dec 15, 2008 23:51
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:unless it's a buell, in which case it's on all the time, and is so loud you can't hear approaching fire trucks. The lone Buell rider at work... that drat fan stays on even after she shuts the bike down. And you're right, it is absurdly loud... what a silly design.
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Dec 16, 2008 00:17
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What a silly motor.
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Dec 16, 2008 05:24
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:
Everyone's skipped over the most logical way to clean it. Fire! A little gasoline in the exhaust, a little starting fluid to get the fire going, and you get a clean exhaust. Video Nero's moped now runs great. The leftover gasoline was frighteningly black.
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Dec 16, 2008 19:29
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about cleaning a moped exhaust
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I just picked up a CBR F3, and lo and behold a few days later I realized the light is getting weaker, and gets brighter when revved. A few blocks away from home on the way back from work the bike died idling waiting for a light to turn. Now it clicks, tries to turn over, and won't start. I push started it, it ran for a bit, then died idling. My friend says he'd bet money it's the alternator, but I don't want to buy a new one if that won't solve the problem. Would a bad rec/reg unit cause it to die at idle like that? It happened too fast for it to just be an old battery, I ran the bike fine every day since I got it and kept the revs high enough that it should have charged. I know I need to solve that before replacing the battery, but do I absolutely need a new battery or could I charge it and use it once the alternator problem is solved?
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Dec 17, 2008 04:17
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How can I tell what type of brake fluid I have in my bike? I generally replace all of the fluids when I get a new bike but am cautious about the GS. Going by what the rest of everything looked like, and backed up by the really stuck screws on the lid of the MC, the bike hasn't been serviced in forever yet the brake fluid is clear/very light amber. In most older bikes I've worked on it's a disgusting milkshake looking mess that is easy to see as contaminated DOT 3 or 4. I don't want to go putting 3 or 4 in there if it's got silicone in it.
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Dec 17, 2008 04:18
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Lawn posted:I just picked up a CBR F3, and lo and behold a few days later I realized the light is getting weaker, and gets brighter when revved. A few blocks away from home on the way back from work the bike died idling waiting for a light to turn. Now it clicks, tries to turn over, and won't start. I push started it, it ran for a bit, then died idling. Bikes have a stator/rotor to produce AC current and then have a regulator/rectifier to turn it to DC current. Chances are your r/r is fried or a connection somewhere got hosed. What you need to do is check that the battery is getting around 14v with the bike on and reved to around 1/3rd of overall RPM or 3k, whichever is higher. If it's spiking or low, your r/r, stator or wiring is hosed. If you're getting consistant AC voltage (around 40v) when you check the 3 wires coming off the stator against one another, then you need to replace the r/r or check for damaged wiring somewhere in the loop. For clarity: You should see around 40v AC off the regulator, into the rectifier, and then 14v out of the rectifier (when reved) to the battery. Anything besides that means either a part replacement or a damaged wire/connector. Stators almost never die, it's almost always the regulator or broken/shoddy wiring/connectors. Hondas are notorious for it. You'll probably need a new battery too, but it may recover with a good charge and fixing the initial problem quickly. Make sure it's topped off, if it's not the maintenence free type. Bugdrvr, almost every modern bike uses DOT 4. Harleys are an exception. Your GS is not. It should be printed on the reservoir, in the manual, and in the service manual. It does use DOT4 though. If it's light and clear, and you get good feedback and resistance from the bar, it's fine. Z3n fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Dec 17, 2008 |
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Dec 17, 2008 05:05
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What about if the voltage doesn't increase at all when reved/on? I'll still check the r/r... I found a good pictorial guide for my bike (http://cbrworld.net/forums/post/140473.aspx) so I'll test that out, but right now it's raining and I have no garage. If reving isn't increasing the voltage at all could it still be the r/r?
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Dec 17, 2008 06:12
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Lawn posted:What about if the voltage doesn't increase at all when reved/on? I'll still check the r/r... I found a good pictorial guide for my bike (http://cbrworld.net/forums/post/140473.aspx) so I'll test that out, but right now it's raining and I have no garage. If reving isn't increasing the voltage at all could it still be the r/r? I don't like trusting resistances at the coil because it doesn't always reflect how the bike is behaving when it's running. Testing ECUs led to a distate of anything like that. If the voltage doesn't increase when it's reved, it can still be the R/R. Basically: If it doesn't increase, there's a problem with your charging system. If it increases too much, there's a problem with your charging system. If it's just right, then your battery is dead. If you're getting good voltage out of the Stator, it's the R/R. If you're getting poo poo voltage out of the stator, it's the stator. There's only 3 parts to these systems.
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Dec 17, 2008 17:59
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Is there a name for the things that are... well, they're sort of like gas I.V.s for running carbed bikes with the fuel tank off. It's just an elevated container of gasoline with x lines running to the carbs. I know I've seen them before, but I can't find them now.
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Dec 18, 2008 01:56
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rope kid posted:Is there a name for the things that are... well, they're sort of like gas I.V.s for running carbed bikes with the fuel tank off. It's just an elevated container of gasoline with x lines running to the carbs. I know I've seen them before, but I can't find them now. A slave tank? I've never seen one sold, I've always just used rigged up soda bottles and poo poo.
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Dec 18, 2008 02:02
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rope kid posted:Is there a name for the things that are... well, they're sort of like gas I.V.s for running carbed bikes with the fuel tank off. It's just an elevated container of gasoline with x lines running to the carbs. I know I've seen them before, but I can't find them now. I use a gas tank off of an old snowmobile I bought from a yard sale. It looks like a slightly overgrown soup can with a gas cap on top and a nipple on the bottom. I just bungee it to something higher than the carbs. It works great and only cost $3.
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Dec 18, 2008 02:04
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Bugdrvr posted:I use a gas tank off of an old snowmobile I bought from a yard sale. It looks like a slightly overgrown soup can with a gas cap on top and a nipple on the bottom. I use the tank off my snowblower:  If you really want to buy one JCWhitney sells them here: http://tinyurl.com/4ozs5g but they're pretty expensive for what you get.
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Dec 18, 2008 04:10
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All you need is a 20oz cola bottle and surgical tubing. Fasten the bottle above the bike and run the tube straight to the fuel input. Start a siphon. Also remember to block up vacuum hoses so it runs right.
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Dec 18, 2008 04:47
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 Punch a hole somewhere in the bottle. Trust me on this one. 
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Dec 18, 2008 13:01
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You can also be really quick about using a turkey baster filled with fuel to keep the fuel line filled. Really quick.
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Dec 18, 2008 17:08
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I bought a battery for my bike a month ago and it has sat in the box on the floor of my room since then, as I usually just kickstart the bike. I don't have a trickle charger. Can I put the battery in and just use the kickstart and ride around for a bit to charge it, or do I need to buy a charger and charge it fully before putting it in?
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Dec 18, 2008 20:51
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You "should" charge it. Bikes live on the edge of killing batteries. Typically below 3000rpm they're discharging the battery. So your battery may never charge. Spend the $20 on a charger, you won't regret it.
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Dec 18, 2008 20:58
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Nerobro posted:You "should" charge it. Bikes live on the edge of killing batteries. Typically below 3000rpm they're discharging the battery. So your battery may never charge. Spend the $20 on a charger, you won't regret it.
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Dec 18, 2008 21:05
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2A is a bit powerful for a bike battery so don't leave it charging for too long. (couple hours?)
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Dec 18, 2008 21:07
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rope kid posted:Is there a name for the things that are... well, they're sort of like gas I.V.s for running carbed bikes with the fuel tank off. It's just an elevated container of gasoline with x lines running to the carbs. I know I've seen them before, but I can't find them now.  i used a syringe a few times, now i have a tank off an old genny-welder that has a handy petcock on it
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Dec 18, 2008 22:00
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| # ? May 15, 2024 01:39 |
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Anybody had a chance to ride Aprilia's new Dorosduro yet? Apparently took fifth at Pike's Peak and from what I've gathered from the reviews, an extremely friendly and fun bike with a surprisingly comfy seat. Looks to cost around $9600. You get a 750cc 90 degree V-twin with 92hp and gobs of torque pretty low in the rev range. Click here for the full 800x654 image.  Click here for the full 450x672 image. Aprilia USA link http://preview.tinyurl.com/47wrl4
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Dec 18, 2008 23:36
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