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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

iscariot posted:

and be real careful about getting it on the weatherstripping too much too.

Thanks for confirming the plastic thing. I have been really paranoid and completely avoided addressing the rear window. And I do need to be more careful to not get it on the rubber weatherstripping.

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Mo Hawk
Jul 17, 2006
HEADPHONE JACK

Hypnolobster posted:

Relevant post:

Crazy jerk builds a scale Miata from scratch.
http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4399

My first idea was to complain that he doesn't have any style or class because his dipstick wasn't yellow ...but then I checked, and he even has that!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Hypnolobster posted:

Relevant post:

Crazy jerk builds a scale Miata from scratch.
http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4399

That guy is a madman to not just build that level of detail into it...but then put it out onto the track :psypop:

I raced R/C for years, and if your car's body didn't have scrapes and gouges all over it after a few months of racing, you were doing it wrong.

GoblinBomb
Sep 19, 2004
Shit happens when you party naked.
Except for the longnose crank, the 1993 Miata is the same as the 1990, right? I ask because I just saw this:

http://finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=17257&cat=308&page=1

1993 workshop manual for $60. That's pretty good, isn't it?

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

GoblinBomb posted:

Except for the longnose crank, the 1993 Miata is the same as the 1990, right? I ask because I just saw this:

http://finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=17257&cat=308&page=1

1993 workshop manual for $60. That's pretty good, isn't it?

Ya everything else is the same. The only problem with those books if they're small, I think they're around dvd case sized pages. I got one of the binder types on ebay for ~100 bucks. They're a hell of a lot easier to read and go through.

slurry_curry
Nov 26, 2003
<3mini-moni+animu^_^

So, thanks to my Christmas bonus, I think its time to get some new struts and springs for my miata. Now the question is, what to buy. I am trying to keep it on the cheap side, as I haven't decided how much money I want to dump into this car. My first thought was go to flyin' miata, since they know about them. I am thinking about their "Stage 1" suspension kit:

http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4537&parentid=0&stocknumber=13-16650++1990-97

~$600 for struts and springs doesn't seem too bad, especially since it comes with illimuna's. Do any of you guys run flyin miata springs? Any other suggestions for a decent strut/spring combo? I had tokico blues and eibach springs on my old MK1 mr2, and despite the negative things Ive heard about the blues, I loved them. Any ideas?

destructo
Apr 29, 2006
I've heard the Illuminas suck for the price and have a nice tendency to blow prematurely in conjunction with aftermarket springs. If you're looking to keep it cheap, KYB AGX's can be had for about $300 on ebay, and some other spring wouldn't be a bad setup. If you want to go up in price a bit, you can't beat the Koni Yellows.

slurry_curry
Nov 26, 2003
<3mini-moni+animu^_^

destructo posted:

I've heard the Illuminas suck for the price and have a nice tendency to blow prematurely in conjunction with aftermarket springs. If you're looking to keep it cheap, KYB AGX's can be had for about $300 on ebay, and some other spring wouldn't be a bad setup. If you want to go up in price a bit, you can't beat the Koni Yellows.

Thats part of the issue that I had heard about the blues, and since I don't really care about adjustable struts, since the miata is my beater car, I guess i shouldn't bother with illuminas. Also, I just checked out ebay and found a bunch of these on there:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Part...trkparms=65%3A3|39%3A1|240%3A1318

I am willing to risk the issues with tokico blues/illuminas, although the springs make me rather hesitant. Anyone had any luck with random ebay kits like this?

Mo Hawk
Jul 17, 2006
HEADPHONE JACK
Ok guys, now I am really stuck... maybe AI can help me out.
My power windows, windshield wipers and heating fan do not work. It stopped working occasionally in the beginning but now nothing works at all. It seems the three are all connected to the same power that is on when ignition is on, but I am unable to locate where those three meet.
Is there a relay that might be responsible for this?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
destructo, did you ever get that tranny oil change, and if so, did it help your shifting?

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

kimbo305 posted:

destructo, did you ever get that tranny oil change, and if so, did it help your shifting?
Yep did it a couple weeks back, Amsoil Enema (Royal Purple 75w90). When I did it it was still reasonable out, ~50f dropping to around 30 at night, shifting was awesome. I used to get pretty noticeable notchiness during my 1-2 shift, and this took care of it significantly.

Unfortunately I don't think it's that good in colder climates, in the rare times I need to take my car out these days (0-15F, sometimes lower), it's pretty hard getting into 1/2, but during more decent temperatures it's great. No complaints. I was coming from whatever they filled it from the factory :barf:

The Third Man
Nov 5, 2005

I know how much you like ponies so I got you a ponies avatar bro
Since this thread is back up, I thought I'd ask, is pulling out the stock seats in a miata and putting in some little bucket seats a good idea for extra leg room? I'm 6'2" and I'm thinking about a miata this summer, and like all big guys, I'm worried about fitting in the little things (looking at early 90's models in my price range).

destructo
Apr 29, 2006
Try sitting in one first, depending on how your body fits you may be just fine, or you might be on the edge of comfort. There are plenty of guides to perform a "foamectomy" on the stock seats to gain a couple inches, or you can just get some cheap buckets (Sparo Speed, Memoryfab, etc) and bolt them to the floor.

Or get these :coal:

Amelios
Oct 23, 2003
What in the world are those? I'm going to be in the market for some seats later this summer... Trying to find what will give me the best helmet clearance under a rollbar while still maintaining some level of comfort for 3-4 hour drives to the track...

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5

destructo posted:

I've heard the Illuminas suck for the price and have a nice tendency to blow prematurely in conjunction with aftermarket springs. If you're looking to keep it cheap, KYB AGX's can be had for about $300 on ebay, and some other spring wouldn't be a bad setup. If you want to go up in price a bit, you can't beat the Koni Yellows.

I thought those claims were debunked? FM praises their damping profile saying that they prefer them to the AGXes. I've been very happy with my stock springs + Illumina + FCM bumpstops for 4 season DDing and ~10 AutoXs a year.

GoblinBomb
Sep 19, 2004
Shit happens when you party naked.

destructo posted:

Yep did it a couple weeks back, Amsoil Enema (Royal Purple 75w90). When I did it it was still reasonable out, ~50f dropping to around 30 at night, shifting was awesome. I used to get pretty noticeable notchiness during my 1-2 shift, and this took care of it significantly.


Is Royal Purple worth the extra cost compared to Mobil 1 75w90? I changed my tranny oil a couple months ago, and it definitely helps. Still having shifting issues, but that's because my clutch is on its way out. :(

slurry_curry
Nov 26, 2003
<3mini-moni+animu^_^

aSocial posted:

Since this thread is back up, I thought I'd ask, is pulling out the stock seats in a miata and putting in some little bucket seats a good idea for extra leg room? I'm 6'2" and I'm thinking about a miata this summer, and like all big guys, I'm worried about fitting in the little things (looking at early 90's models in my price range).

Personally, I'm around 6'2", although rather skinny, and with my leather recovered seats, which adds some padding to the seats, I am perfectly comfortable in my '93. Granted I'm used to driver small cars as the last 3 of the 5 cars I've had before my miata were mk1 mr2's.

Ziploc posted:

I thought those claims were debunked? FM praises their damping profile saying that they prefer them to the AGXes. I've been very happy with my stock springs + Illumina + FCM bumpstops for 4 season DDing and ~10 AutoXs a year.

I thought the same thing, because of what i read, about my tokico blues. Everyone said they came blown out, or would blow out really quick. Granted I only had them for ~8 months before my mr2 got totaled, but they worked great for me. I think I might have to take the risk and get a set of the ebay tokico blues and springs. Only $400 so its worth a shot.

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5

Negromancer posted:

I thought the same thing, because of what i read, about my tokico blues. Everyone said they came blown out, or would blow out really quick. Granted I only had them for ~8 months before my mr2 got totaled, but they worked great for me. I think I might have to take the risk and get a set of the ebay tokico blues and springs. Only $400 so its worth a shot.

Wasn't it the Blues the shocks that game Tokico the back rep with Miata's in the first place?

EDIT: I read that wrong. If Blues were the problem shock, why are you looking for them again?

slurry_curry
Nov 26, 2003
<3mini-moni+animu^_^

Ziploc posted:

Wasn't it the Blues the shocks that game Tokico the back rep with Miata's in the first place?

EDIT: I read that wrong. If Blues were the problem shock, why are you looking for them again?

Well I haven't heard anything bad about blues in miatas, although I did hear that about blues for MK1 MR2's, but I still got a set for my old MK1 MR2 and they worked great for me, and they are cheap. And seeing as I have less than $3k in this car total, i haven't decided if I want to keep it and make it nice. So for now I am just trying to make it handle better with low cost. I had good luck with the blues in my mr2, so I'm willing to risk it again.

But these tokico springs..... Anyone know anything about them?

The Third Man
Nov 5, 2005

I know how much you like ponies so I got you a ponies avatar bro

destructo posted:

Try sitting in one first, depending on how your body fits you may be just fine, or you might be on the edge of comfort. There are plenty of guides to perform a "foamectomy" on the stock seats to gain a couple inches, or you can just get some cheap buckets (Sparo Speed, Memoryfab, etc) and bolt them to the floor.

Yeah, I really just need to sit in one for starters, I'm just worried because the only "small" car I've really driven is my girlfriends 2000 ford escort coupe, and with the seat all the way back, the wheel is no more than an inch or less above my legs, which bothers me. Thanks for the advice, however.

slurry_curry
Nov 26, 2003
<3mini-moni+animu^_^

aSocial posted:

Yeah, I really just need to sit in one for starters, I'm just worried because the only "small" car I've really driven is my girlfriends 2000 ford escort coupe, and with the seat all the way back, the wheel is no more than an inch or less above my legs, which bothers me. Thanks for the advice, however.


Well if you have an issue with the steering wheel being that close to your legs, don't get a miata. Even with my momo wheel on and a Q/D hub to space it, its still barely a couple inches above my legs.

obeyasia
Sep 21, 2004

Grimey Drawer

destructo posted:

Or get these :coal:


What is that?

EvilCrayon
Dec 30, 2007
Isn't that the new seat from Bride? The HISTRIX? or something? My friend has one and he says the only thing he doesn't like about it is the way it looks. Otherwise, it's comfortable as hell.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

EvilCrayon posted:

Isn't that the new seat from Bride? The HISTRIX? or something? My friend has one and he says the only thing he doesn't like about it is the way it looks. Otherwise, it's comfortable as hell.

It looks similar, the HISTRIX has some larger 'wings' up at the sholders. Hopefully that one costs less than the bride cause that is hot. And the bride loving costs ~$1500 bucks.

BusinessWallet
Sep 13, 2005
Today has been the most perfect day I have ever seen
My 99 is almost paid off so i want to deal with all of the things that i've left alone due to lack of money since i've been paying out the rear end for this car because of insurance and my mothers retarded decision to get a 2 year loan instead of three.

I don't know if this is typical, but after a time I seem to have developed 2 small holes in my top, right where the hinges are on the frame of the top. I guess it had been pinching or something and finally gave in. This was during the summer though, and so I patched it on the inside with duct tape and on the outside i used epoxy to fix 2 vinyl patches on either side. It looks absolutely atrocious. What top should I replace it with, and where is a good place to get it installed? What are typical prices people are paying to have this done?

I have a small tear in my drivers side seat, in the side bolster closest to the door. Is there an easy and way of getting this repaired?

I received a nice hit an run about a year ago, and never bothered to get it fixed because it was too expensive and my insurance would go up too much if I claimed it. Basically their rear bumper just nudged my drivers side headlamp, and creased the fender just a tad, pushing the headlight so that the tabs broke, and cracked the bumper in that area just a bit as well. I know this is vague, but what would one assume is a reasonable price for an amount of damage like this? You can barely see it from a few yards away but it drives me bonkers.

I just rolled over 77K and that the previous owner never did the 60K maintenance that you're supposed to get on these cars. Is my radiator going to explode or anything? What is the cost of this service usually?

There seems to be what sounds like a rock stuck inside the heat shields in my exhaust. It makes this really annoying vibration when I rev, and is most annoying at about 2700 RPM.

This car is one of those dreaded CA emissions miatas and had i known this ahead of time i wouldn't have bought it. I rolled off the lot with this car almost 2 years ago and literally miles later the check engine light came on. It's been on since I've owned it, and it's always because of some damned exhaust issue. For months, it was the O2 sensor, the one closest to the exhaust manifold which I replaced, and the CEL turned off for about a month. I was ecstatic, until it turned right back on again, being the same issue. Anyone have any ideas? The exhaust is starting to sound more and more lovely lately, anyone know of a good catback solution? All I can really find for my model year is just the muffler itself, not the full exhaust. I might even buy headers to eliminate the problem all together, but it would make me so happy to get that goddamn check engine light off for good. I've even considered just selling it and getting a new car because it literally drives me that crazy.

Sorry for so many questions and stuff, I've been sitting on a ton of issues this car has had for quite a while and I cannot ignore them any longer.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

BusinessWallet posted:

There seems to be what sounds like a rock stuck inside the heat shields in my exhaust. It makes this really annoying vibration when I rev, and is most annoying at about 2700 RPM.

Catalytic converters rattle like that when they go bad, my friends BMW sounded like a can of pebbles and was terrible until he replaced it and my miata has started doing it on occasion.

As for the 60k maintenance you can get the parts you need for 200 bucks or so but I have no idea what labor would run if you have a shop do it.

For the soft top it'd depend. Here in the bay area there is a guy that advertises on craigslist for new softtop installations and charges ~500-700 installed depending on what top you want.

einTier
Sep 25, 2003

Charming, friendly, and possessed by demons.
Approach with caution.
How handy are you? The Miata is one of the easiest cars to work on.

BusinessWallet posted:

I don't know if this is typical, but after a time I seem to have developed 2 small holes in my top, right where the hinges are on the frame of the top. I guess it had been pinching or something and finally gave in. This was during the summer though, and so I patched it on the inside with duct tape and on the outside i used epoxy to fix 2 vinyl patches on either side. It looks absolutely atrocious. What top should I replace it with, and where is a good place to get it installed? What are typical prices people are paying to have this done?
My 99 did this and Mazda replaced the top under warranty, so I'd say it's an issue with the very early tops. Sucks it happened now, but after 10 years, the top was probably due for a replacement anyway.

Robbins tops are usually considered the best -- even better than the stock top. Make sure you get the right one and consider if you'll ever put a rollbar in this car -- some tops won't work with some rollbars. Get the rain rail, you probably need it anyway and it will save you a lot of labor.

I have no idea where to tell you to take it to have this work done, as it all depends on the area you live in. You can do it yourself, miata.net has instructions, but it's not the easiest thing in the world and you have to take your time and do it right if you want it to look good.

When my top was replaced, the dealer said it would have been ~$2000 including the cost of the top if it hadn't been covered.

quote:

I have a small tear in my drivers side seat, in the side bolster closest to the door. Is there an easy and way of getting this repaired?
Leather or cloth? Either way, see a upholstery shop.

quote:

I received a nice hit an run about a year ago, and never bothered to get it fixed because it was too expensive and my insurance would go up too much if I claimed it. Basically their rear bumper just nudged my drivers side headlamp, and creased the fender just a tad, pushing the headlight so that the tabs broke, and cracked the bumper in that area just a bit as well. I know this is vague, but what would one assume is a reasonable price for an amount of damage like this? You can barely see it from a few yards away but it drives me bonkers.
A lot. Body damage costs a lot these days. You need a bumper cover, a headlight, and possibly a fender at a minimum. You're probably looking at $1500 easy.

If you want to do it on the cheap, do this. Find a 99 or 2000 headlamp assembly on eBay or a junkyard and replace it by hand. It's pretty easy, it's only held in by three or four bolts if I remember correctly. Alternately, you could remove your headlamp and provided it's not seriously damaged, JBWeld the tabs back onto the housing. Again, for the bumper cover, source one on eBay or a junkyard. If you're lucky, you can find one in the same color and you won't have to have it painted ($$$). The fender you might get lucky and can have the dent pulled out by some paintless dent removal company.

quote:

I just rolled over 77K and that the previous owner never did the 60K maintenance that you're supposed to get on these cars. Is my radiator going to explode or anything? What is the cost of this service usually?
The biggest thing about the 60k service is the timing belt replacement and water pump replacement. Figure about $600-1000 for this repair. The repair is slightly involved, but can be done in your garage if you can follow directions and have a decent set of tools. I've seen it done in a couple of hours in a parking lot, if that gives you any idea. The parts will run you about $200, more if you choose to replace the water pump. Seriously consider doing the water pump, because it won't cost you any extra to do it now (other than the part) while it will cost you just as much as the timing belt replacement to do it later.

If you choose not to do this, it won't hurt anything, but if the pump or belt fails, it will strand you wherever you're at. For the record, I waited until 100,000 miles to do mine.

The rest of this service is pretty typical. You need to replace the air filter, the spark plugs and spark plug wires, and you need to replace all the fluids (oil, transmission, differential, brake, coolant).

quote:

There seems to be what sounds like a rock stuck inside the heat shields in my exhaust. It makes this really annoying vibration when I rev, and is most annoying at about 2700 RPM.
I can't remember if the heat shields can be tightened, but either way, this is a pretty easy fix. You need to be able to get under the car while someone revs it to 2700 rpm, and then you can see what's rattling. It might just be a rock trapped somewhere, or you might need to bend the heatshield away from whatever it's rattling against. Alternately, you could remove it altogether.

As someone said, it's probably more likely your catalytic converter, especially given your CEL problems and the odd noises you say the exhaust makes. A catback won't fix your problem though, as it only replaces the exhaust after the catalytic converter. Headers are almost wasted on the Miata.

quote:

This car is one of those dreaded CA emissions miatas and had i known this ahead of time i wouldn't have bought it. I rolled off the lot with this car almost 2 years ago and literally miles later the check engine light came on. It's been on since I've owned it, and it's always because of some damned exhaust issue. For months, it was the O2 sensor, the one closest to the exhaust manifold which I replaced, and the CEL turned off for about a month. I was ecstatic, until it turned right back on again, being the same issue. Anyone have any ideas? The exhaust is starting to sound more and more lovely lately, anyone know of a good catback solution? All I can really find for my model year is just the muffler itself, not the full exhaust. I might even buy headers to eliminate the problem all together, but it would make me so happy to get that goddamn check engine light off for good. I've even considered just selling it and getting a new car because it literally drives me that crazy.
Go to AutoZone and have them pull the code. They'll do it for free, then we can tell you what's wrong and what you need to fix. I remember I couldn't get my CEL to go off for any length of time until I pulled the intake manifold and thoroughly cleaned it. You can reset the light by pulling the main cabin fuse -- but it will also blank your radio.

einTier fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Jan 7, 2009

obeyasia
Sep 21, 2004

Grimey Drawer

FireTora posted:

It looks similar, the HISTRIX has some larger 'wings' up at the sholders. Hopefully that one costs less than the bride cause that is hot. And the bride loving costs ~$1500 bucks.

So, any confirmation on the brand/name?

EvilCrayon
Dec 30, 2007
Anybody ever try the Autokonexion fastback top? It looks pretty sweet.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

EvilCrayon posted:

Anybody ever try the Autokonexion fastback top? It looks pretty sweet.
http://www.autokonexion.com/new5.php
Dang, you have to have an OEM hardtop and then shell out $1500 for it. I think I'd rather go turbo for that kinda money. It definitely looks cool, but it's expensive.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

EvilCrayon posted:

Isn't that the new seat from Bride? The HISTRIX? or something? My friend has one and he says the only thing he doesn't like about it is the way it looks. Otherwise, it's comfortable as hell.
Not quite.

http://www.be-free.ne.jp/

~$260 each, +shipping/taxes/etc.

EvilCrayon
Dec 30, 2007

kimbo305 posted:

http://www.autokonexion.com/new5.php
Dang, you have to have an OEM hardtop and then shell out $1500 for it. I think I'd rather go turbo for that kinda money. It definitely looks cool, but it's expensive.

Definitely changes the entire look of the car... I see a 944...

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

EvilCrayon posted:

Definitely changes the entire look of the car... I see a 944...

Sure it looks great, but are you really willing to drop $1700 (assuming you have a hardtop already) on it?

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

destructo posted:

Not quite.

http://www.be-free.ne.jp/

~$260 each, +shipping/taxes/etc.

drat the site is down, plus since its japanese it probably wont fit my large american thighs :(

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

FireTora posted:

drat the site is down, plus since its japanese it probably wont fit my large american thighs :(
Ah, shoulda posted this:

http://www.befree.sh/

Text reads to go there instead. Anyway I think someone on CR with a 34 waist is using one just fine, it's terribly tempting to pick at set up at that price...

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BusinessWallet posted:

I don't know if this is typical, but after a time I seem to have developed 2 small holes in my top, right where the hinges are on the frame of the top. I guess it had been pinching or something and finally gave in. This was during the summer though, and so I patched it on the inside with duct tape and on the outside i used epoxy to fix 2 vinyl patches on either side. It looks absolutely atrocious. What top should I replace it with, and where is a good place to get it installed? What are typical prices people are paying to have this done?

I will second the fact that this just seems to happen a lot on '99s - mine wore through a few years ago - and the only real solution is a new top. "Luckily" enough, some methhead knifed the top on ours which put it from usable to trash - but meant insurance would cover it. They got a quote from a local dealer to do it with an OEM top for roughly $1500...I went with a local shop that put a Robbins on for just under $1000, parts and labor.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

destructo posted:

Ah, shoulda posted this:

http://www.befree.sh/

Text reads to go there instead. Anyway I think someone on CR with a 34 waist is using one just fine, it's terribly tempting to pick at set up at that price...

That site is down too but i did just find them on their yahoo auction store.

http://page15.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t100142205?u=befreejapan
http://page3.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c155541269?u=befreejapan
http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s42340535?u=befreejapan
http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v69013604?u=befreejapan

No idea what the differences are between the 2 difference priced ones.
And yes it is extremely tempting, those seats are hot.

Savington
Apr 9, 2007
I'm not Stinkmeister, this title is here so waar can tell the difference between Stinkmeister and myself in mafia games.

FireTora posted:

Catalytic converters rattle like that when they go bad, my friends BMW sounded like a can of pebbles and was terrible until he replaced it and my miata has started doing it on occasion.


no.

Do yourself a favor. Take a weekend, remove the *entire* exhaust system from your car, and remove every single heat shield from it and the areas on the car surrounding it. The silence will be deafening.

charliemonster42
Sep 14, 2005


Savington posted:

The silence will be deafening.

And the heat unbearable...

Those heatshields are there for a reason, a lot of them, especially in the engine bay, protect wires and hoses from melting. Plus they help keep heat under the hood down. If you're going to do that, you'd probably be better off taking them all off, cleaning them, removing any rust/dirt/crap, and then reinstalling them with loctite on all of the fittings.

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BusinessWallet
Sep 13, 2005
Today has been the most perfect day I have ever seen

einTier posted:

How handy are you? The Miata is one of the easiest cars to work on.

My 99 did this and Mazda replaced the top under warranty, so I'd say it's an issue with the very early tops. Sucks it happened now, but after 10 years, the top was probably due for a replacement anyway.

Robbins tops are usually considered the best -- even better than the stock top. Make sure you get the right one and consider if you'll ever put a rollbar in this car -- some tops won't work with some rollbars. Get the rain rail, you probably need it anyway and it will save you a lot of labor.

I have no idea where to tell you to take it to have this work done, as it all depends on the area you live in. You can do it yourself, miata.net has instructions, but it's not the easiest thing in the world and you have to take your time and do it right if you want it to look good.

When my top was replaced, the dealer said it would have been ~$2000 including the cost of the top if it hadn't been covered.

Leather or cloth? Either way, see a upholstery shop.

A lot. Body damage costs a lot these days. You need a bumper cover, a headlight, and possibly a fender at a minimum. You're probably looking at $1500 easy.

If you want to do it on the cheap, do this. Find a 99 or 2000 headlamp assembly on eBay or a junkyard and replace it by hand. It's pretty easy, it's only held in by three or four bolts if I remember correctly. Alternately, you could remove your headlamp and provided it's not seriously damaged, JBWeld the tabs back onto the housing. Again, for the bumper cover, source one on eBay or a junkyard. If you're lucky, you can find one in the same color and you won't have to have it painted ($$$). The fender you might get lucky and can have the dent pulled out by some paintless dent removal company.

The biggest thing about the 60k service is the timing belt replacement and water pump replacement. Figure about $600-1000 for this repair. The repair is slightly involved, but can be done in your garage if you can follow directions and have a decent set of tools. I've seen it done in a couple of hours in a parking lot, if that gives you any idea. The parts will run you about $200, more if you choose to replace the water pump. Seriously consider doing the water pump, because it won't cost you any extra to do it now (other than the part) while it will cost you just as much as the timing belt replacement to do it later.

If you choose not to do this, it won't hurt anything, but if the pump or belt fails, it will strand you wherever you're at. For the record, I waited until 100,000 miles to do mine.

The rest of this service is pretty typical. You need to replace the air filter, the spark plugs and spark plug wires, and you need to replace all the fluids (oil, transmission, differential, brake, coolant).

I can't remember if the heat shields can be tightened, but either way, this is a pretty easy fix. You need to be able to get under the car while someone revs it to 2700 rpm, and then you can see what's rattling. It might just be a rock trapped somewhere, or you might need to bend the heatshield away from whatever it's rattling against. Alternately, you could remove it altogether.

As someone said, it's probably more likely your catalytic converter, especially given your CEL problems and the odd noises you say the exhaust makes. A catback won't fix your problem though, as it only replaces the exhaust after the catalytic converter. Headers are almost wasted on the Miata.

Go to AutoZone and have them pull the code. They'll do it for free, then we can tell you what's wrong and what you need to fix. I remember I couldn't get my CEL to go off for any length of time until I pulled the intake manifold and thoroughly cleaned it. You can reset the light by pulling the main cabin fuse -- but it will also blank your radio.

So total I'm looking at probably more than 3000 dollars in repairs. Rad. Should I just sell my car and get something else? That's literally half the value of the car in nothing that will actually make it worth more money, or faster or anything else.

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