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Hypnolobster posted:Can anyone suggest me some reading material for this? Build threads, websites for the (I assume) kits people use, how the gently caress much it'd cost, what the hell transmission people use, problems with the swap, best year Miata to receive said LS1 (NA's are pretty, NB's are yucky). http://www.flyinmiata.com/V8/index.php http://forum.miata.net/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=38
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Jan 11, 2009 20:45
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Hypnolobster posted:I've got the space, I possibly have the funding, I've got the time, I've definitely got the tools, and good lord would it be glorious. $3000 in a turbo kit will get you to ~240whp, if that's not enough, you'll have to build the internals. I think the max for a 1.8 at this point is some crazy dude (search "eliminator miata" or something close to it on youtube) with ~560 some whp.
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Jan 11, 2009 23:59
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Well, got the master all fixed and guess what, I have a clutch again! Amazing. Also, the Mityvac is the best $30 I've ever spent. gently caress bleeding things the old way, pull a vacuum and be done with it. Unfortunately, it looks like it's now due for radiator hoses, and the heater hoses look more brown than black so I don't give them much longer. Really, I suspect that by summer I'll have to go through the car, since it hasn't had needed any real work in the past 100k...timing belt, water pump, front seals, radiator hoses, heater hoses, accessory belts. Probably throw in some fresh gear oil in the gearbox and the rearend since I last changed those at 42k when I bought the car.
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Jan 12, 2009 02:07
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Well, I've continued to stare at build threads, and Racing Concept's kit in addition to the FM kit. FM's build costs chart was an eye opener. I hadn't anticipated a whole host of little costs and it's a bit beyond what I can afford, or rather a bit beyond what's reasonable for a college student, anyway. I could swing the costs if I spent a year carefully finding deals on parts and fabricated a lot of it, but I could get a hell of a lot more enjoyment out of a turboed '94 that I would out of having a car sit around while I slowly build/wait for kit parts to finally ship, etc. It looks like I'll take the money I do have and invest into suspension and a nice turbo kit after eventually finding a 94-95. Still, I'll be goddamned if I give up on my dreams of a small V8 roadster. I'll do it eventually 
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Jan 12, 2009 03:20
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Hypnolobster posted:Well, I've continued to stare at build threads, and Racing Concept's kit in addition to the FM kit. FM's build costs chart was an eye opener. I hadn't anticipated a whole host of little costs and it's a bit beyond what I can afford, or rather a bit beyond what's reasonable for a college student, anyway. Racing Concepts' first car burned to the ground. I'd go with the turbo unless you're really experienced with engine swaps.
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Jan 12, 2009 05:14
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I sat there and drooled on FM's build process of the LS1 into Elvis...but the fact of the matter is their price sheet really is accurate (that is, you don't need to apply the x3 multiplier). The only place I saw them spending more money than was absolutely needed was using a $2500+ new T-56 when you can easily cut $1k off of that price with a used gearbox. When you consider the cost of the Miata, plus the cost of the swap, depending on the Miata you're starting with you can easily be in used C5 Corvette territory, and a C5 wouldn't have any of the headaches that a LS1 Miata would have (i.e. insuring it for actual value, emissions inspections especially in states like CA). Hell, if you started with a later NB in good condition, swapped in a LS2/LS3, and paid FM to do the labor, you're in C6 territory. Of course I wholeheartedly support anyone mad enough to do the swap, I just think that I would have a hard time making sense of it when you can essentially buy a factory version of the car you're trying to make. I would love to see some performance numbers on a LS1/LS2/etc Miata, especially some that can be reliably compared to production cars.
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Jan 12, 2009 06:04
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Are there any cheaper alternatives to the LS1 for an alum block? Weren't a few of the truck 5.3 in aluminum? Used 5.3, used t56 or even a t5 to save money. Source a Ford 8" w/ IRS. Even a 5.3 with upgraded heads, cams, and intake with be making more than a turbo 1.8 can reliably.
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Jan 12, 2009 16:53
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You could find a cheap LS1 and a cheap T56 and use a non-lsd used diff, etc and knock off a grand or three, fabricate the exhaust, get used fuelsystem stuff and I'm sure there are used alternatives for the radiator. I'm sure it could be done for ~$8000, but that's just too halfassed to be worth it.
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Jan 12, 2009 16:59
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goku chewbacca posted:Are there any cheaper alternatives to the LS1 for an alum block? Weren't a few of the truck 5.3 in aluminum? Yeah, the 5.3 as found in the TrailBlazer / other GMT360 vehicles (and probably the V8 in the H3 Alpha) is an aluminum block engine. Downside to it is you might need to swap accessory drives to the Corvette setup, and will probably need to swap oilpans too. You'll definitely need to swap out the intake for the lower-profile car intake. Getting away from the CTS rear kit would probably help the bottom line some, since between the FM kit to install it and the CTS pumpkin itself, you're looking at well north of $2k. Can't you do an 8.8 IRS install for a good bit less with no real drawbacks other than more work? The beauty of the GenIII/IV V8 is that the sky really is the limit...since if you did try to take the cheap route and did a stock or near-stock 5.3 initially, you can still easily upgrade it, either by throwing on heads and a cam, or by swapping the longblock out to a 5.7 / 6.0 / 6.2. Yes, technically you could swap in a LS7 or LSX block too, but if you're even thinking about those, "budget" is not in vocabulary 
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Jan 12, 2009 17:05
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  For $1700, should I pick this up? It has a clean title and 138k miles. Tires are about 40% but nothing is wrong mechanically. It runs pretty well, clutch doesn't slip. It's also got a roll bar, new top, and a racing beat intake. However, as you can tell from the photos, there's a bit of cosmetic damage and the trunk and hood are both primered black. The hood fitment is a bit off and there's dents in a couple places. The front bumper is scratched like hell with paint chipping off too.
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Jan 13, 2009 08:50
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EvilCrayon posted:
I was going to say it looks like it's been raced a bit, just going by the damage and replacement hood/trunk lids. However, that's not a roll bar, as far as I can tell. Looks like a style bar which does NOTHING for protection in a rollover. But then again, that still doesn't mean it hasn't been raced. 1700 isn't bad for an NA, but what year is it? Also, when was the important work done (timing belt, water pump, hoses, crank gasket, cam gaskets, CAS, cam cover gasket, etc)?? But still... 1700 isn't bad, even for a beater. I paid 1800 for one in a lot worse shape than that one, and an automatic to boot, so I'd say if you're sure about it, then go for it. A little work would probably put that car back in the 3000-4000 dollar range (paint, fix that fender, and get the hood/trunk fitting right). Of course, that's also presuming that the car IS in good mechanical shape and that all that bad fitting doesn't mean it's got a bent frame or anything like that. Sigh... who am I kidding. I'd still jump on it for 1700 either way... If your description is accurate (not saying you're a liar or an idiot, but assuming the seller is honest), it's a deal for 1700. So, find out about the following before you buy: Bent frame Top condition condition of the brakes date of important service (timing belt, water pump and so on) leaks and rust check the clutch master and slave cylinders for leaks check the back of the engine for oil leaks But again, for 1700, I'd jump all over that.
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Jan 13, 2009 16:41
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The hood is fine, it's just got some risers on it, two minute fix.
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Jan 13, 2009 17:21
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destructo posted:The hood is fine, it's just got some risers on it, two minute fix. The super JDM homo factor has been laid upon the car, its more indicative of the car's bad treatment than a simple non-fix would be. I just got a 1.6L CAS and coilpacks with ignitor for the GTX, and am getting some COPs from Savington so I'm selling the coils and ignitor. Anyone interested?
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Jan 13, 2009 18:11
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destructo posted:The hood is fine, it's just got some risers on it, two minute fix. I looked at the pinch in the fender and took that to mean the hinge on that side was popped up a bit... maybe he slid into a light pole or something... oh well. Makes me wonder if I could get 1700 or so for my 91 with 195K on it, auto, worn out top and horrible paint  I'm sure there's SOMEONE out there who'd pay me for it... heh.When I bought the BRG I had intended to drive the BRG and red 91 alternating weeks to keep mileage down on the BRG (it's got 65K on it now) but I find that I much prefer the 5spd in the BRG to the slushy in the Red 91... so I still only drive the BRG on most days... I am so 
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Jan 13, 2009 18:15
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bladernr posted:I was going to say it looks like it's been raced a bit, just going by the damage and replacement hood/trunk lids. However, that's not a roll bar, as far as I can tell. Looks like a style bar which does NOTHING for protection in a rollover. But then again, that still doesn't mean it hasn't been raced. Checking it out again end of this week. Found out today that the hood and trunk are the OEM ones but the paint had faded so the original owner decided that painting them matte black to create make-believe carbon fiber ones would be the answer. I'm trying to figure out if the current owner has the maintenance records. EvilCrayon fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 06:39
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It's been 5 years since I've driven a manual and a year since I've driven anything but a scooter(yes, very sad). Best part is the hill right outside my house. I'll post pictures of the miata later.
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Jan 16, 2009 03:19
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Am planning on getting a new soft top for my '94. My uncle replaced the top on his '92 a few years ago with one of the tops with the glass rear window. This is what I'm looking for. I have found a few at various websites. A friend of mine found this site: http://www.convertibletopguys.com/cgi-local/displaycat.cgi?cat=652&c1=google&source=mazda-miata&kw=various What do you all think? Has anyone replaced their soft tops on their NAs, and if so, where did you go? Am also going to replace the headrest speakers. My friend also found this: http://www.3rdstrategy.com/Millennium%20Speakers.htm You all can't tell I've got a pretty good tax refund coming, huh?  While I'm at it, don't know if I'm going to have enough to do this with my refund but just want to get some feedback/info... Does anyone know if I can just replace part of my passenger seat? The friend I bought my Miata from had a spare battery stored on the passenger seat and it leaked battery acid and, of course, ate through the seat. The back of the seat is fine, but the seat is ruined. What I've done for now is cut some heavy plastic, covered the rotten part of the seat, and put a cheap seat cover over it. (And of course covered the fine driver's seat just so it would match.) I hate the seat covers just because the one on the driver's seat slips around on the leather seat... Any ideas on this? Think I'll have to replace the entire seat?
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Jan 19, 2009 04:34
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If anyone in MA is looking for a cheapo Miata, here's one that just popped up: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/1012555113.html I have a CL feed to help gauge the market price of my Miata, and I'd say this one is a reasonable bargain. It's amazing how every white NA I've seen has had its paint go just above the sun visors like that.
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Jan 29, 2009 20:58
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kimbo305 posted:If anyone in MA is looking for a cheapo Miata, here's one that just popped up: Mazda had lovely white paint in the late 80s/earlier 90s. The white RX7s from that time are notorious for the paint peeling.
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Jan 29, 2009 21:14
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kimbo305 posted:If anyone in MA is looking for a cheapo Miata, here's one that just popped up: Why the hell can't I find deals like this in Ohio? I've been routinely checking craigslist for preferably a 94-96 (in white, particularly) and have been utterly unable to find one under 3 grand.
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Jan 29, 2009 21:23
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Hypnolobster posted:Why the hell can't I find deals like this in Ohio? I've been routinely checking craigslist for preferably a 94-96 (in white, particularly) and have been utterly unable to find one under 3 grand. They pop up from time to time (they do in the Raleigh, NC area at least) but you have to be FAST... usually ones like that, which seem to be in pretty fair shape, and rather low miles for the average NA, sell for twice that round here, so for 1880, it'd be gone almost as soon as the ad goes up. My 91 BRG was just like that... I called 5 hours after the ad was posted to arrange to have a look / test drive, and it was already sold... lucky me though, the guy who wanted it decided he couldn't get a loan to pay for it, so I was next in line for the car. That one was a 91 BRG with 47K on it at the time, for about 4400 bucks. The only Miatas I see here in the 1500-2000 range are usually 180K-220K+ beaters that have been flogged to death. BUT on occasion you will find someone who doesn't understand the value of the Miata, and they'll list and sell them at "book value" which is usually a 2 - 3 thousand less than what most people will pay for an NA.
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Jan 30, 2009 19:36
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bladernr posted:They pop up from time to time (they do in the Raleigh, NC area at least) but you have to be FAST... usually ones like that, which seem to be in pretty fair shape, and rather low miles for the average NA, sell for twice that round here, so for 1880, it'd be gone almost as soon as the ad goes up. You forgot that guy in Chapel Hill who's been trying to sell that crappy turbo 89-90 for 1.5+ years plus.
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Jan 30, 2009 20:42
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The only NAs that come up for sale in the Atlanta area are either really ragged out with 200k+ miles for ~$1000-$1500 (like this one http://atlanta.craigslist.org/cto/1013971829.html) or decent examples with lovely aftermarket wheels (always terrible wheels WHY??) that people and dealers think are worth $5000 or more (like this one http://atlanta.craigslist.org/ctd/1013747247.html). I realize that dealers are always high, but $5000 for a 1992 NA with lovely wheels? Are you loving serious?
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Jan 30, 2009 20:49
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bandman posted:The only NAs that come up for sale in the Atlanta area are either really ragged out with 200k+ miles for ~$1000-$1500 (like this one http://atlanta.craigslist.org/cto/1013971829.html) or decent examples with lovely aftermarket wheels (always terrible wheels WHY??) that people and dealers think are worth $5000 or more (like this one http://atlanta.craigslist.org/ctd/1013747247.html). it's in perfect condition, look at the paint. that top looks recent too.
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Jan 30, 2009 21:05
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Phone posted:You forgot that guy in Chapel Hill who's been trying to sell that crappy turbo 89-90 for 1.5+ years plus. You're right... I did. And thanks to you, I have to forget it all over again  Heh... that one's almost been a saga in and of itself... I've seen him come down from something like $10K to this month's $4,500. For those wondering: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/981606585.html  Click here for the full 1265x1287 image. And http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/990562777.html quote:I have just had about $1500 work done on this car because the water pump went out and caused other problems. There is still something not right with the car because it smokes only when it is started up in the morning and then smokes no more during the day. Or this: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/982058227.html $1750 for a well flogged car that the owner admits is probably not good for more than parts, or to strip and build into a Spec car... Hell, I should be able to get at least 1600 for my other NA if this one sells... This one is near me http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/983947199.html and it's actually in OK shape for a 200K+ mile car... though they are a little over-generous on the paint. It's got the typical clear coat issues, IIRC, and some fading/chalking. Definitely in need of paint, but looks fairly straight. But then there's this for $2500 http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1014045861.html which looks pretty good, and probably a good deal at that (assuming it's in good mechanical shape), even if it needs a new top. Like I said, they do tend to pop up from time to time, you just have to be fast when the good ones actually pop up.
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Jan 30, 2009 23:14
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bladernr posted:You're right... I did. And thanks to you, I have to forget it all over again I love this. On the one hand, it's a "89 pre production import (hiroshima japan may 89) titled as 90 miata," and yet it has "no worn ragtop (instead a $1500 hardtop was added), all those other items were removed prior to my purchasing the car to lighten it and give it better handling after the turbocharger was installed." You can have it one way or the other. Either it's a unique model that's worth a bit more because it remained stock and has proof of its uniqueness, or it's a heavily modified car that isn't worth much of anything without a great deal of paperwork proving it was not only done competently but also that it's been taken care of since. You don't rip the soft-top out of a car and magically charge an additional several thousand for it. I love how he says "This is the way I bought it around a year ago" as though that makes any difference. "Oh, I guess it MUST be true then." I hope for his sake the guy selling is a 17 year old kid. haha -- "...hardtop (matches color scheme), kenwood stereo system, custom painted hardtop to match car..." The hardtop is so awesome he noted it twice.
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Jan 31, 2009 15:55
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Anybody know of a good place to source an instrument hood cover? Mine's all hosed up and started to make wonderful sounds last night on the freeway. All of the top clips are broken and CL near me isn't yielding anything. 
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Jan 31, 2009 18:41
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Phone posted:Anybody know of a good place to source an instrument hood cover? Mine's all hosed up and started to make wonderful sounds last night on the freeway. All of the top clips are broken and CL near me isn't yielding anything. or planetmiata.com will have them for sure
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Jan 31, 2009 19:31
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destructo posted:http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t30843/ Eh, I was talking to Savington and it looks like a new one is the best bet. I think that February is going to be maintenance and mod month. I need to still to replace the clutch. Buy the new gauge hood. Maybe a rollbar thrown in there. Perhaps a helmet?
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Jan 31, 2009 23:30
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Phone posted:Eh, I was talking to Savington and it looks like a new one is the best bet.
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Feb 1, 2009 00:17
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destructo posted:Ooh, if you buy a helmet, let me know what you find. I'll need one for summer for sure. Snell 05 needed for SCCA reqs right? Yeah, but they're coming out with Snell SA2010 next October.
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Feb 1, 2009 00:46
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God-damned Pilates posted:I love this. On the one hand, it's a "89 pre production import (hiroshima japan may 89) titled as 90 miata," My 1990 was built in Hiroshima in April of 1989, does that make it a rare pre-production import too!?!?
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Feb 1, 2009 01:03
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GoblinBomb posted:My 1990 was built in Hiroshima in April of 1989, does that make it a rare pre-production import too!?!? Hell if I know. I was taking it as his bragging about it being some sort of rare model regardless of whether it was or not; the greater point is that even if this was the one Miata Mickey Mouse hosed Goofy in, it's ruined by the fact that it's been modified so heavily, but he doesn't realize it.
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Feb 1, 2009 05:10
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Oh, he realizes it. To put it in perspective, I bought my first Miata in April of 07; he's been advertising since before then.
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Feb 1, 2009 10:00
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Feb 1, 2009 10:47
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Savington posted:I'm more interested in what's next to it...is that a Factory Five GTM?
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Feb 1, 2009 17:17
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gently caress you and your roommate so much savington, gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress
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Feb 1, 2009 17:51
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I posted in this thread earlier when I was in the middle of car shopping. I test drove an NB Miata, but the dealership was asking way too much and ended up settling on a Civic coupe. I've always wanted a Miata, however, to the point that the Miata was one of the first cars I ever really had the desire for. (Not ) However, I guess Miata fever has taken hold since my test drive, as I am seriously entertaining ideas of trading in the relatively new Civic for an NB Miata. I was browsing Autotrader last night and found a 2003 with ~25,000 miles listed for $12K. Now I now with the economy in the dump I could probably talk them down a bit, but I'm more worried about being lowballed on my trade-in. With 5000 miles on the car already (I do a lot of highway driving) I realize I have already taken a ton of depreciation. I just wonder if it's better I should wait an indeterminate amount of time for the car business to pick back up before trying to make a trade. I haven't gotten a chance to go out and look at this car first hand, but after browsing miata.net for quite a while I can't imagine a 2003 with 25K miles would have many of the problems they list. I'll definitely check out the soft top though, is that a weak point on the NB? What else should I know before thinking about this any more seriously than I already am? Edit: As much of a pussy as this reveals me as I guess I should mention that one of the few things holding me back from making this happen is the more rational part of my brain telling me that driving for hours on the highway without cruise control will be tiring. Confirm/deny? Previa_fun fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Feb 2, 2009 |
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Feb 2, 2009 03:20
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Previa_fun posted:Edit: As much of a pussy as this reveals me as I guess I should mention that one of the few things holding me back from making this happen is the more rational part of my brain telling me that driving for hours on the highway without cruise control will be tiring. Confirm/deny?
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Feb 2, 2009 03:31
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Previa_fun posted:Edit: As much of a pussy as this reveals me as I guess I should mention that one of the few things holding me back from making this happen is the more rational part of my brain telling me that driving for hours on the highway without cruise control will be tiring. Confirm/deny?
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Feb 2, 2009 03:38
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