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I transport my track bike in the back of a Mazda B3000, and finely honed the art of transport over the course of this summer. My first attempts involved rope and non-ratcheting straps. It took 40 loving minutes, and ended up with the bike falling over after a sideways glance from a passing motorist. Later, I moved up to using 2 ratcheting straps and rope. This worked alright, but still took too long to setup/undo. The perfect setup that I found, involved just two ratcheting straps. Put the bike into the box, diagonally, with the front tyre wedged into the driver's corner of the box, and the rear pushed hard up against the passenger side of the bed (you could swap sides, depending on your bike's exhaust orientation). One ratcheting strap goes from the right side of the top part of the forks (or bars, depending on how tired I was). This goes to a tie down on the forward part of the truck bed. The left side strap attaches to the corresponding part of the bike on the left side, but is attached to the truck at the rear, driver's side tie down point. Aside from being super loving quick and easy to rig up, it also left enough room to get all of my gear, as well as my friend's kit - a full icebox, two sets of leathers, track stands, tools, helmets, miscellaneous poo poo. With rope in the way, or even extra straps, getting all of that in was just a huge pain in the rear end. Obviously you're not going to be too worried about fitting sets of leathers or a fuckoff big cooler in beside a bike that you're just buying, but still. Oh yeah, and ratchet that fucker down hard. There's no reason to leave enough suspension travel to have it move anywhere. If you can feel the weight of the bike in the bed influence the truck when going through a corner (while the bike stays motionless), you've done something right. 
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Jan 12, 2009 00:50
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goku chewbacca posted:I'd imagine you have a problem with people not liking you IRL. Nerobro doesn't understand human emotions.
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Jan 12, 2009 02:32
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Well my 5000 mile service is due, and seen as though I'm a first year mechanic student (Although a car mechanic) I thought id do it myself, I have all the tools I need, but still need a bit of guidance. My bike is a CBR 125, nothing to complicated. My checklist is: Change engine oil: Easy enough, the bike doesn't have an oil filter, so its just drain oil, refill, finish. Check spark plugs, gap: Should really replace them, but funds are very limited, clean them up and if the gap is out just knock it back. Check valve clearance: Never done this before, but found a great guide online, although i am a bit apprehensive. Adjust chain, lube etc: Also never done this, and the bike not having a centre stand is going to make things difficult, is this a hard thing to do? Clean, top up fluids etc: Just the little things. Am i missing anything important off the list? I've got plenty of spare time to do the required work, so if anyone can thing of anything else let me know. Thanks.
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Jan 12, 2009 17:49
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fronkpies posted:Well my 5000 mile service is due, and seen as though I'm a first year mechanic student (Although a car mechanic) I thought id do it myself, I have all the tools I need, but still need a bit of guidance. My bike is a CBR 125, nothing to complicated. Nope, that's pretty much it. Are the valves shim under bucket or locknut type? I would carefully jack the bike up off of the bottom of the engine block or frame to adjust the chain slack and lube the chain. Please tell me you've been lubing the chain in the last 5k miles 
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Jan 12, 2009 17:53
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Z3n posted:Nope, that's pretty much it. Are the valves shim under bucket or locknut type? I have been lubing the chain, but haven't taken up the slack the whole time i've owned the bike, silly i know, bought it with 1800 on the clock. There locknut type.
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Jan 12, 2009 18:09
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fronkpies posted:I have been lubing the chain, but haven't taken up the slack the whole time i've owned the bike, silly i know, bought it with 1800 on the clock. There locknut type. Locknut is easy to do, just make sure that you've got the engine in the correct position when you're adjusting them, as you're not just moving up or down a shim size and you can get them wildly out. Also, turn the engine over by hand before you put it all back together and make sure that nothing is making contact. You probably already know all of that, but it doesn't hurt to mention it. A correctly adjusted and cleaned/lubed chain, shouldn't need adjustment more than once every 3-5k.
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Jan 12, 2009 18:23
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Z3n posted:I would carefully jack the bike up off of the bottom of the engine block or frame to adjust the chain slack and lube the chain. I'm supposed to adjust the chain on my bike with the rear wheel on the ground. You just loosen the axle nut, turn the two adjustment nuts in the back of the swingarm to move the wheel, and tighten everything back up. The hardest part is taking off the exhaust that is directly in front of the axle nut. fronkpies, you're missing the lubing of cables. I have one of these and it's a snap (if a bit messy).
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Jan 12, 2009 21:35
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Uthor posted:I'm supposed to adjust the chain on my bike with the rear wheel on the ground. You just loosen the axle nut, turn the two adjustment nuts in the back of the swingarm to move the wheel, and tighten everything back up. The hardest part is taking off the exhaust that is directly in front of the axle nut. What bike recommends that? I've never heard of something like that, as you're going to have a hell of a time working against all of that resistance. Are you sure it doesn't say to measure the slack while it's on the ground and adjust it with it off the ground? That is common.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:12
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Z3n posted:What bike recommends that? I've never heard of something like that, as you're going to have a hell of a time working against all of that resistance. Are you sure it doesn't say to measure the slack while it's on the ground and adjust it with it off the ground? That is common. It's a Vulcan 500. Maybe it is recommended to measure while on the ground, but I found almost to resistance to moving the axle with the wheel on the ground. It was really, really easy.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:16
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Uthor posted:It's a Vulcan 500. Maybe it is recommended to measure while on the ground, but I found almost to resistance to moving the axle with the wheel on the ground. It was really, really easy. If it works...saves you dealing with a rearstand. I found my bikes impossible to do on the sidestand. Centerstand would lift the back tire off the ground anyways, so that made it easy.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:19
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Out of curiosity, what kind of camera setup do those guys who make all those goofy motorcycle video blog things use? How much does that sort of thing run? I tried to google it myself but did a really bad job I guess and didn't find anything that looked right. Also feel free to type words about non-helmet camera setups and I will gladly read those as well.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:37
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Twenty-Seven posted:Out of curiosity, what kind of camera setup do those guys who make all those goofy motorcycle video blog things use? How much does that sort of thing run? I tried to google it myself but did a really bad job I guess and didn't find anything that looked right. Go on ebay and you can buy a whole "bullet cam" system for $250 for the inexpirienced. I personally bought a Minox DMP3 for $90, and a bullet cam for $60 last night, and plan to drill it into the under part of my bike's front end. You can also buy a camera mount that attaches to your gas tank, and you can screw it in like you would a video cam to a tripod. You may have to do some electrical wiring so I would find a motorcycle workshop that can do that last little bit if you wanna be safe.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:43
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Twenty-Seven posted:Out of curiosity, what kind of camera setup do those guys who make all those goofy motorcycle video blog things use? How much does that sort of thing run? I tried to google it myself but did a really bad job I guess and didn't find anything that looked right. http://www.goprocamera.com/ The footage from those looks pretty decent, there the helmet/non permanent type.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:47
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Related question, I've got a ram mount for my digital camera; what can I use to protect the lens from bugs/rocks? Its a Canon Powershot SD1100IS, if it matters.
blugu64 fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jan 12, 2009 |
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Jan 12, 2009 23:00
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blugu64 posted:Related question, I've got a ram mount for my digital camera; what can I use to protect the lens from bugs/rocks? Its a Canon Powershot SD1100IS, if it matters. Mount it behind the windshield would be my vote. I'm using this, and it produces these videos: http://www.vimeo.com/2408408 It's mounted to a bracket on the bottom of my fairing stay that I rigged up for 50c at a hardware store with a u-bolt. I haven't seen good stuff out of the lower quality go-pro cameras...they tend to be wavy and even lower rez than what I use.
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Jan 12, 2009 23:21
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6xVpx6Kxf8#t=1m48s Are the silly vloggers actually doing this or am I getting trolled hard
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Jan 13, 2009 04:21
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Twenty-Seven posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6xVpx6Kxf8#t=1m48s I'd do it. I don't think it would work on my helmet, though - the chin bar on mine comes up higher (over my nose).
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Jan 13, 2009 10:18
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Twenty-Seven posted:Out of curiosity, what kind of camera setup do those guys who make all those goofy motorcycle video blog things use? How much does that sort of thing run? I tried to google it myself but did a really bad job I guess and didn't find anything that looked right. http://helmetcameracentral.com/2006/11/06/oregon-scientific-atc2k-atc-2000-helmet-camera/ I have one of those, or a similar model anyway, its at a mates house at the moment, its simple, robust and easy to mount anywhere, but the mic is poo poo(although my sv is retardedly loud), and the video quality is so-so. videos come out like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lf10A5kp__E
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Jan 13, 2009 20:33
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Bike is a 1999ish Tomos TTLX, Two Stroke, 50cc moped. Help! I got the carb apart today (holy poo poo it was easy to get to! Thanks Tomos engineers), and I am amazed the thing was even idling with the choke. There was grey and brown poo poo caked EVERYWHERE in the carb. Absolutely disgusting. I cleaned the carb pretty well, put it back together. It would start (with choke on) run a little (with choke on), and run for a second (with choke off) before choking out an dying. I figured I didn't clean it well enough, and that something is causing it to run out of gas (which as it would die after 3 seconds or so of full throttle, indicates to me that the bowl had been completely bonked dry). So I cleaned the carb again. Jet had clogged up pretty badly, so I cleaned that again, as well as sprayed the gently caress out of the carb. Same issues once everything was put back together. I rode one of my Kinetic TFR over to Advanced Auto and picked up two new cans of Carb Cleaner, as well as some little picks (I can't remember what they were called, but they looked like dentistry tools). Rode back, took the carb off. I took the picks and scraped all the gunk out of the carb, then sprayed it down like riding mopeds was going out of style (  ) and put it back together. Same issue :fist:.Anyone have any ideas on what could be going on? Thanks
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Jan 13, 2009 23:17
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What sort of carb is it? Have you looked at the CV carb thread? There's advice there that will help. If you have pictures, we can point out where you need to concentrate cleaning.
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Jan 13, 2009 23:43
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Bean_ posted:Bike is a 1999ish Tomos TTLX, Two Stroke, 50cc moped. have you checked upstream from the carb? poo poo in the fuel tank maybe
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Jan 13, 2009 23:48
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Nerobro posted:What sort of carb is it? Have you looked at the CV carb thread? There's advice there that will help. If you have pictures, we can point out where you need to concentrate cleaning. Dellorto. I'll check the CV thread for now, and I'll come back with pictures tomorrow. echomadman posted:have you checked upstream from the carb? poo poo in the fuel tank maybe Fuel line and flow from tank is fine. Flows freely from petcock & end of line.
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Jan 13, 2009 23:50
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What he was asking is: Is the tank rusting out? Drop an inline fuel filter (settle down there, nero  ) and see if it runs for a little while and then cuts out.
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Jan 14, 2009 00:37
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It does sound like you keep cleaning the carb all nice just to have crud from the tank clog it back up. Run a clear inline filter and see what kind of crap is getting trapped. If you can see chunks, it's time to take the tank off and clean it out.
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Jan 14, 2009 00:44
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Maybe I didn't write it clearly. After my second time in the carb with cleaner, all of the free-roaming sludge/gunk was gone, nothing had dislodged and found a new home in the jet or anything. Everything after the second time through was me scraping ingrained film off with a pick. So nothing should be junking it up from within the carb. The third and fourth time cleaning out the emulsifying tube, jet, etc, everything appeared to be clear. The fuel line is clear in color, it has no obstructions. I have also already placed an in-line fuel filter. Rust should not be an issue at this point as fuel flows freely from tank, from petcock, and from the end of the fuel line into the carb. EDIT: To clarify on what I did earlier. 1st attempt-went through haphazardly. I got a ton of sludge out and threw the carb back on to see if it made a difference. I didn't get everything in there, I just wanted to see if it ran any better. It didn't so I took it back off and cleaned again. 2nd attempt-Cleaned again to find that a flake of something got caught in the jet. Cleaned it again, got everything that could be viewed as a possible risk out. No avail. 3rd attempt-Carb apart, didn't appear to have anything stuck in jet or emulsifying tube. I used picks to scrap film off of float, bowl, jet, emul tube, etc. Everything looked good. No avail. 4th attempt-Routine carb cleaning again, nothing new. No avail. I guess what I'm asking is this: the problem has to lie with the carb or the fuel line, right? I'm not just wasting time trying to find gunk in there, rather than looking for say....an air leak? Thanks Bean_ fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 03:13
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Does this style of carb have a float, or is it maybe a pumper/floater (like a chainsaw carb)? It sounds to me like maybe the float level may be off, not enough fuel in the bowl. Could the float be in upside down? Another thing to try, if you can. Put your hand over the open end of the carb and see if it starts and stays running. Check for a good draw through the carb.
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Jan 14, 2009 04:16
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Okey, you havea dellorto SHA, not a PHBG right? The SHA carbs only have a main jet, and nothing else you can adjust. They do all their part throttle metering through holes in the "emulsion" tube. But calling that tube an emulsion tube is glorifying it. Looking from the back of the carb. with the throttle slide shut, you will see a tiny round hole just at the bottom of hte slide. This is your idle fuel passage. THAT needs to have some brass wire shoved through it. followed by a solid shot of carb cleaner up through the main jet. While you're at it, open up the throttle slide, and clean up the middle and top end bleed holes. Everyone: This is a bit of a weird carb, they have a very nice, very large built in fuel filter, and they are float valve controlled. It's somewhere between the trash you find on a briggs and stratton, and a dirtbike carb. The Dellorto SHA series carbs are flatslide, but don't have a needle. Instead they have a tube that goes up from the main jet. (I was calling it an emulsion jet, but it really isn't...) and that tube has three holes drilled into the backside of it. The first one actually is drilled at an angle, through the floor of the throttle. The second hole is similar size to the first, and is about 1/3 the way across the bore of the carb. There's a final, larger hole about 2/3 the way up the tube. Between these three openings you have a rough approximation of the job a slide needle does. Very rough.. The moped crew tend to like these carbs because they're simple. And if the motor will do full throttle, and idle, they're typically satisfied. These dead simple carbs do have their problems. Long periods at the wrong throttle position can easily foul, or burn up a motor. Or at least leave you with some really lovely throttle response. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jan 14, 2009 |
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Jan 14, 2009 07:32
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Why arent people sourcing small Mikuni VM's or something rather than these goofy carbs? At least a VM has all the components of a normal full-size carb.
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Jan 14, 2009 16:23
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That's a long story in and of itself. the Dellorto PHBG is a "normal" carb. Slide, needle, pilot, starter jet, mixture screw.. everything we're used to. Sometimes you see people breaking out the 24mm flatslide mikuni's too. OKO is a new carb mfg, and they have semi-flatslide carbs on the market. Moped people are typically very simple. They spend more time thinking about who's the cooler band, and trying to find that one band that they can be the superfan of that nobody else knows. Not many actually put any thought into what they're doing. ;-) So the Dellorto SHA carbs have ONE tunable part. And that's the main jet. Makes life easy when your only tuning option is the main jet. That also means you have crap carburation for most of your throttle travel. I guess that doesn't matter as much when you're rocking 5 horsepower. SHA carbs are also cheap. Right around $80. PHBG's are a bit more expensive, at the $100-120 range. And due to the longer list of parts, PHBG's are more expensive to tune. I spent $34 on my SHA 14:12. I wouldn't have spent more than $40 on one... And I'll have a PHBG on it's way soon. If I can't find a decent mikuni in the meantime. If I could find a RV or TC90 carb I'd be sitting pretty. A 20mm carb with all the fancy parts would make me very happy.
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Jan 14, 2009 16:30
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Haha, I'm such a stupid prick.  Went out there today, and it had gummed up pretty substantially (enough to make it look as though I hadn't touched the carb). How...I don't know. Anyways, I cleaned the hell out of it, and there must have been some built up gunk that was I wasn't getting well enough earlier in the Needle housing tube (whatever that's called). I used the brass wire recommendation from Nerobro in the CV thread to get it out, and although there wasn't much in there, that was the solution. I cleaned the jet and scrapped some more caked film off, put it back together, and it runs great. Awesome.  Pictures will be posted in the Moped Thread (along with some details on how it ran + some other moped bullshit), as well as the Picture thread. Here's a teaser. (Also-Nerobro, I took some pictures of the Dellorto Carb if you want me to throw those in the CV Carb thread...I'm not sure if that Free-For-All carb stuff, or what) (My Hosting) 
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Jan 14, 2009 23:02
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So today the chain came off the sprockets and wrapped itself around the back wheel, while I was going about 90kp/h on the motorway. Luckily I was able to come to a stop before the back wheel seized (just), and I was ok. Unluckily my rear hub looks completely hosed, and to make things worse as the bike was being unloaded the tow truck driver forced the sprocket/hub/brake shoes into the soft alloy hub of the rear wheel taking whole chunks out of it.  So now I'm looking at a brand new rear wheel and hub rebuild (probably?)! On the up side I didn't become one with the asphalt, so I guess it's a push.
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Jan 16, 2009 10:22
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Spartak posted:So today the chain came off the sprockets and wrapped itself around the back wheel, while I was going about 90kp/h on the motorway. Luckily I was able to come to a stop before the back wheel seized (just), and I was ok. Unluckily my rear hub looks completely hosed, and to make things worse as the bike was being unloaded the tow truck driver forced the sprocket/hub/brake shoes into the soft alloy hub of the rear wheel taking whole chunks out of it. Could have been a really nasty accident. Along the same lines as Spartak (well sort off) i need a new chain but cant afford one until at least a month, will i be okay for a month? its lubed, but when i adjusted it today its well in the red, indicating "new chain"
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Jan 16, 2009 15:13
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fronkpies posted:Could have been a really nasty accident. Adjusted well into the red? Does it have tight and loose spots? If it doesn't, then no big deal, just keep it lubed and keep riding it. Spartak, where did the chain fail at? Masterlink, random link? Glad you're ok.
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Jan 16, 2009 17:56
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I've had two chains fail on me. .. I got very lucky both times. I can only imagine what 530 chain would do whipped into my back.
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Jan 16, 2009 19:23
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Z3n posted:Spartak, where did the chain fail at? Masterlink, random link? Glad you're ok. Just came off the sprockets. I kept it tensioned and everything, so gently caress knows.
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Jan 16, 2009 21:38
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I broke a chain once on a 4-lane road. I was mid-wheelie, the bike redlined and the front wheel went back down. I thought I somehow popped out of gear. After a bunch of cars ran the chain over, I walked nearly a mile to get the chain, called a friend to come pick me up, bought a clip-link, installed it on the side of the road, and went on my way. The chain was dry as hell, you almost couldn't bend the links with your hand. I learned how to clean and grease a chain shortly thereafter. It had like 27,000 miles on it. I rode the bike another thousand or two and then sold it, without replacing the chain. I know there are some bikes out there where the chain can hit (and destroy) the water pump if it breaks. That would suck.
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Jan 16, 2009 21:42
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Spartak posted:Just came off the sprockets. I kept it tensioned and everything, so gently caress knows. Just came off the sprockets... is user failure. If there's enough slack for the chain to get off the sprockets, it was never properly adjusted in the first place. Or the chain was so wildly worn out that it should have been replaced as well. Or the chain was to long. Get your bike fixed, then it's time we have a long talk about how to setup your chain. Bob Morales posted:I know there are some bikes out there where the chain can hit (and destroy) the water pump if it breaks. That would suck.
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Jan 16, 2009 21:50
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Nerobro posted:Just came off the sprockets... is user failure. If there's enough slack for the chain to get off the sprockets, it was never properly adjusted in the first place. Or the chain was so wildly worn out that it should have been replaced as well. Or the chain was to long. Yeah thanks. The chain came with the bike and looked kinda old and in hindsight should have been replaced. On December 20-something I tightened the chain following the Haynes manual specs, and I thought it would be ok.. guess not. fronkpies posted:Along the same lines as Spartak (well sort off) i need a new chain but cant afford one until at least a month, will i be okay for a month? its lubed, but when i adjusted it today its well in the red, indicating "new chain" Get a new chain, the consequences will cost you more than a new chain.
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Jan 17, 2009 04:55
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Spartak posted:Yeah thanks.*snip* I tightened the chain following the Haynes manual specs, and I thought it would be ok.. What you probably ran into was this fun bit about chains. They don't wear evenly. Parts of the chain will be loser than others, and depending on how the teeth on the sprockets wear, you can get some really wacky chain tension. The first chain I had fail, would go from 3" of slack to almost taut depending on how the chain was laying on the sprockets. When you're doing chain tension, be sure to rotate the rear wheel a few times. And check, and recheck the tension.
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Jan 17, 2009 05:22
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Nerobro posted:I wasn't trying to be to snarky. So how about something constructive. Neither was I, honestly the more I know, the less stupid poo poo I'll do in the future. So thanks for that bit too
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Jan 17, 2009 05:25
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