|
So what are some sweet supersport bikes of the late 80s or 90s? I'm talking flashy (limited edition?) 80s paint scheme, great performance all around, and the full bit. Anything above 600ccs, really. Something like the repsol CBR.
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2009 21:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 16:14 |
|
|
Christoff posted:So what are some sweet supersport bikes of the late 80s or 90s? I'm talking flashy (limited edition?) 80s paint scheme, great performance all around, and the full bit. Anything above 600ccs, really. Something like the repsol CBR. 900RR, ZX-7....
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 01:24
|
|
|
The thing about an old supersport is just trying to find one that hasn't been crashed 500 times. Pretty much any of them in nice shape stand out because they are so different looking compared to what's out now. I'd read up on what was out there at the time that interests you. Learn the faults of each and when one pops up on Craigslist or something have an informed look. They usually don't go for all that much money except for the aircooled GSXRs. They have a following and seem to fetch a bit of a premium. Personally, I would love to have an '80s 600 Hurricane, GSXR750, and Ninja of some sort in the collection.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 06:43
|
|
|
Why half rear end it? If you're going to go older, get the best of the best! GPz1100, GSXR1100, FZR1000, ZX-11... Where's your creativity people :-) I'm very fond of the GSXR1100 choice. The CBR900rr is a good choice. THe RF900 has at least some fun history to it. It's a steel spar frame, which is unique.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 08:02
|
|
|
Who was it that picked up that loving immaculate late 80s Fazer 1000? Something like that would probably fit your bill. Wait, you said you wanted a mid eighties GP bike? Oh man, how did you miss this loving gem? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/mcy/986190690.html  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Yes, not over 500cc, but it's two stroke, so it's probably only a bit short on power, right?  Comedy option: 7/11 
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 10:26
|
|
|
That's not a "classic" that's an exotic, for all intents and purposes. 500cc, 100hp, 350lbs. And you'd be lucky to buy one for less than $7000.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 16:19
|
|
|
Wow. It seems like lots of these bikes can be had for just north of $2,000. Obviously I can't say much for the condition and plus there's the obvious age as well.
Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jan 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 21:00
|
|
|
$1500-3000 will get you any of a number of awesome older bikes. Bikes that were top of the line at the time. Modern rubber, bleed the brakes, change to modern brake compounds, and setup the suspension to match you.. and you won't be disappointed. Also, bikes of that age.. well every problem you could have is well known and documented. If you do any sort of research there will be zero surprises in ownership.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 21:50
|
|
|
Simkin posted:Comedy option: 7/11 My vote is for that...the underground classic of the 80s/90s. Either that or a 900RR.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 21:59
|
|
|
What's a 7/11? Only thing I can think of is a 1100cc in a 750 chassis, but that's just my being a Honda guy.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 23:23
|
|
|
FluffGrenade posted:What's a 7/11? Only thing I can think of is a 1100cc in a 750 chassis, but that's just my being a Honda guy. You would be correct. The GSXR 750 and 1100 mills were basically the same, so you could shove a GSX-R1100 engine into a 750 frame and have a killer sleeper. You can do similar things with the 00? GSX-R 600, which is a sleeved 750 engine, and the Katanas are open for engine swaps too. Basically, some bikes were made as 750s or 1100s and then sleeved or destroked to fill smaller displacement roles.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2009 23:29
|
|
|
Better yet, do a 7/12. 750 chassis, Bandit 1200 bottom end/pistons/cylinders, and 1100 head and cams. The best of all worlds, but its alot more work.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2009 01:36
|
|
|
Ha, funny thing is, I only know the 7/11 as a CB750f/k with a CB1100f engine. Thank god for similar cc ratings. :P
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2009 01:37
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Better yet, do a 7/12. 750 chassis, Bandit 1200 bottom end/pistons/cylinders, and 1100 head and cams. Roughly how much power would that make? Would it have the awesome low end of a B12?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2009 01:40
|
|
|
It keeps most of the big grunt of the Bandit, but the wilder 1100 cams make the top end hit harder than either the 1100 Gixxer or the Bandit.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2009 02:13
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Better yet, do a 7/12. 750 chassis, Bandit 1200 bottom end/pistons/cylinders, and 1100 head and cams. drat, that sounds absolutely ridiculous. Any pics/videos of such a beast?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2009 07:53
|
|
|
FluffGrenade posted:Ha, funny thing is, I only know the 7/11 as a CB750f/k with a CB1100f engine. Thank god for similar cc ratings. :P One of my MSF instructors had almost this exact setup. I rode on it for about 10 seconds and the concept of a "beginner bike" suddenly became very clear.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2009 17:55
|
|
|
Well I think I killed my GS500, I was filtering through traffic then the engine started knocking and I thought my chain had come off or something crazy. Pulled over and cut the motor, inspected and couldnt see anything wrong, checked the fuel tap, the spark leads, checked for holes in the engine. Started it back up, noise still present, engine died and would not start again and makes an awesome clacking/knocking noise while cranking and never starts. Nearly full tank of good gas Oil level appears correct and golden brown, had it serviced 2000miles ago Bike has 8000 miles total on it, 2004 model GS500 Pulled the sparks, no oil or damage to them, can't see the pistons however Sounds like lack of compression while cranking, removing the sparks did not really change the cranking speed of the motor Oil pressure light never came on as far as I am aware, when I crank the motor the light goes out straight away so I am pretty sure the bottom end is fine. At the moment I am thinking piston/ring/bore damage but also possibly a head gasket or something causing me to loose compression. I am tempted to drop it to a shop for a fast fix that will hurt my hip pocket or just man up and do it myself. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 11:27
|
|
|
It'd be a little odd, but it could be your cam chain losing tension, causing the valves to open at the wrong time. Pop your cam chain tensioner off, and reinstall it (your manual will tell you how to do this properly - it will make the procedure easier if you are able to grow an extra set of arms). When I was adjusting the valves on my bike, I ended up with the intake valves opening about 1 tooth (degree?) too early, and that was enough to generate no end of clackity bullshit, and really, really unhappy motor function. If you want to diagnose valves interfering with pistons, take off your timing cover, unplug your spark plugs, and spin the engine through one full rotation by using a socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt (it should be the only one you see once you've opened the timing cover). Looking over pics online of GS500 motors (I never had a reason to wrench on mine  ), it looks like the timing cover is on the left side, but I'm not sure if that would also be used to spin the crankshaft. Just make sure the bolt you're spinning is causing the whole engine to turn over and you're in business.Oh, and turning it backwards is probably a bad idea. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 12:11
|
|
|
Simkin posted:cam chain losing tension That is a good suggestion that I did not think of, thanks. I should be getting the bike brought home tomorrow afternoon then hopefully my tool kit will get a bit more use since coming home from the dealership. If it was just tensioner that needed replacing I could have the bike up and running in time for my licensing test which would be nice rather then having to borrow a bike.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 13:10
|
|
|
I wonder if we've actually seen the death of a GS? That would be.. shocking. I'd check the cam timing first. If the motor is knocking like you say, it's either the cam/cam chain and they slipped... Or the motor is toast. The motors are dead simple to pull apart, I'd consider doing it myself. Taking the entire top end off the motor shouldn't take more than an hour or two. That said doing so would really just a post mortem. On the bright side, used motors are typically cheaper than just about any three or four individual parts on the motor. ;-)
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 15:23
|
|
|
Right, so. Holes in the exhaust (the bit between it coming out of the engine and the silencer). Are they meant to be common (I've got 3 or 4 in the 125 and just found one in the 400)? And what's the best way to fix them? Does it have to be welded or would something like Chemical Metal or Metal Putty do alright? Not really sure how hot the exhaust gases are. Chem Metal's max temp is about 180C but it says not to be used where there is sustained temperature of over 100C. Metal Putty's max temp is about 280C. For the record, the bikes are both Hondas, one's a 2004 Euro XR 125L and the other's a 1993 CB400 Super Four and the largest hole is about 3 or 4mm across. Really stupid questions but with all my bike and car tinkering, I've never had anything to do with the exhaust Regarding the GS500, that surprises me that you even might have killed it. I was looking at getting one for my upgrade from the 125 (as you can see, I got the 400 instead) due to enjoying it on my DAS training. Friend of mine almost lynched me for suggesting it, he really can't stand the GS, instead much prefering the ER-5.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 17:01
|
|
|
Simkin posted:drat, that sounds absolutely ridiculous. Any pics/videos of such a beast? Honestly I dont know much about them other than the fact that its been done more than a couple of times, and that it keeps the earth rotating torque of the Bandit, while adding the top-end hit that the Bandit lacks, and the GSXR has. It probably wouldnt look much different than any 7/11 out there, as all the oil cooled Suzuki motors look pretty much alike. Sorry I dont have a better answer than that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 17:07
|
|
|
DiZ posted:Well I think I killed my GS500, I was filtering through traffic then the engine started knocking and I thought my chain had come off or something crazy. Pulled over and cut the motor, inspected and couldnt see anything wrong, checked the fuel tap, the spark leads, checked for holes in the engine. Started it back up, noise still present, engine died and would not start again and makes an awesome clacking/knocking noise while cranking and never starts. Given your mechanical ability it'd be foolish to pay someone to fix your bike. Remember a bike is much easier to work on in comparison to a car. I would compression check the motor before you start tearing into it. I would make darn sure your electrics are functioning properly before you start tearing into things. I've had battery issues and blown fuses cause a bike to act really strangely.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 17:22
|
|
|
Orange Someone posted:*exhaust holes* quote:Regarding the GS500, that surprises me that you even might have killed it. I was looking at getting one for my upgrade from the 125 (as you can see, I got the 400 instead) due to enjoying it on my DAS training. Friend of mine almost lynched me for suggesting it, he really can't stand the GS, instead much prefering the ER-5. The GS500 and ER-5 aren't even in the same weight class ;-) it's not a fair comparison. Information on 7/11's http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/ click the seven-eleven link on the left side. Stupid site is still frames driven.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 17:23
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:You have two options. Cover them with a metal strap. Or weld them up. Exhaust gasses can top 1400degrees. The pipes, you can expect to reach 5-900 degrees depending on how fast you're going. If you're going slow, some bikes have been known to get their exhausts up to a dull orange. It's a 125 dualsport thumper with a lanky 6'4" dude perched right in the slipstream, it's always going slow. Seriously though, it's not that hot of a running bike though I guess orange pipes is something I'll have to look out for on the 400. Is that Centigrade or Fahrenheit? Either way it's still hotter than I'd have imagined. I'd guess a Jubilee clip would come under the heading of a metal strap, maybe with some sort of patch. I'd rather get ia permanent fix, I think I can get a decent deal on some welding (yay for friends of friends being paid in beer). At least now I've got a backup plan if everything goes pearshaped. Maybe I should learn to weld, though that's a scary prospect. The ER-5 and the GS500 don't seem to be that far off each other, they're also both standard 500cc parallel twins, so I didn't think the comparison would be too odd.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 19:10
|
|
|
500+ deg F. And yes jubilee clips will do nicely. The ER-5 is a 4 valve, water cooled parallel twin, with the stator and accessory devices all placed on accessory drives. This leads to more potential failures. The GS500 is an air cooled two valve, parallel twin, with all of the accessories hanging off the crankshaft itself. Except the starter motor itself and the oil pump. The technology levels are wildly different. As were the design philosophies. Another example of "same sort of motor, wildly different power levels" is you can look at a Harley 1200cc motor, and a Ducati 1200cc motor. 70hp, versus 170hp. Same sort of comparison though, harleys are currently twin cam, two valve motors, but air cooled. Ducati's are four valve, dual cam, water cooled...
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 19:33
|
|
|
http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/patrick/projects/lee/index.htm Is that a 7/12 GSX-R and even if it isn't holy poo poo that is a lot of work(if not a terrible paint job).
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 19:33
|
|
|
Sybok posted:http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/patrick/projects/lee/index.htm It's a 7/11. He was prepped for a 7/12, but ended up selling the B12 motor and using the tuned motor out of a previous spec. I like that he worked out the actual angle of things, but it's still too high in my opinion. They should sit like a racebike, when you're full on the brakes the front fairing should be sitting on the fender:  Click here for the full 1024x732 image. I can't even get all 4 fingers between the fairing and the fender on some of the modern 6s.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2009 20:05
|
|
|
Ok so I got the bike towed home and I have pulled the timing chain tensioner out to inspect, from what I can tell it has failed, there is no spring back what so ever, from reading the manuals the tensioner must be wound down and installed wound down so that it springs to auto tension after you install it but this thing has nothing. I have uploaded a video of me manipulating the tensioner, using the winding screw at the back I can extend it out and in but only into a fixed position, there is no spring force present at all as you will see from the video. So has my tensioner died? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESRtSQtQ46Y
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 08:32
|
|
|
That does look busted. The only time that you should be able to move it in and out that easily, is if you have the adjust screw all the way in, so that the spring is fully compressed. It's possible that the last person to adjust the valves on your bike overtightened that screw and it stuck. I found out that it's much, much easier than you expect, to have the spring stick. Take a flathead screwdriver to the tension screw - it should be a recessed/captured screw opposite the piece that you were pushing in and out. Turning it one way will put tension on the spring, and turning it the other way (well, aside from not being recommended in the manual) should free it up, if it's stuck. It shouldn't take too much force to free it, if it is stuck. At worst, you either replace a broken spring inside of the tensioner, and at best, you reset it properly, and your GS lives to fight another day. If mucking around with the winding screw doesn't cause anything to pop out, just give a local shop a call and see if they have any springs on hand - shouldn't be more than a few bucks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 11:02
|
|
|
gently caress Simkin you are right on the money, I opened the tensioner after the back screw did nothing to help the problem and I found the spring had snapped. I will attempt to just replace the spring but I might have to settle for a while new tensioner. Also I will see if the previous service involved changing the chain tension, I don't like sticking the blame on others but if it ends up that the rocker covers need to come off and the engine needs to be retimed due to the chain jumping teeth I won't be happy. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 11:50
|
|
|
you sir, just got lucky as hell. Retiming the motor takes a half hour at most. don't be pissed, just be happy you still have a bike!
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 15:19
|
|
|
DiZ posted:gently caress Simkin you are right on the money, I opened the tensioner after the back screw did nothing to help the problem and I found the spring had snapped. Bike may have skipped a tooth, but you may have avoided valve/piston loving. Hell, from my experiences with GS500s, it may have made sweet valve/piston love and you may still be fine. The things are f'ing tanks. That's the first CCT i've seen that's straight up failed in a long time. What I always hoped for being CCT failure was usually something more damaging  Also, it looks like your CCT is jammed, typically they have enough travel that they'll seat completely down into the body of the CCT and then extend almost the length of the body. I'd replace it. Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jan 22, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 17:54
|
|
|
I couldn't decide which thread to put this in so the umbrella gets it. I just bought a SV 650 in need of a chain replacement and since this is my first bike without a center stand was wondering if all rear stands are made equal? Any I should avoid? Oh, and whats the best bang for the buck as far as chain/sprocket combos(standard gearing)?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 20:31
|
|
|
OrangéJéllo posted:I couldn't decide which thread to put this in so the umbrella gets it. I just bought a SV 650 in need of a chain replacement and since this is my first bike without a center stand was wondering if all rear stands are made equal? Any I should avoid? Oh, and whats the best bang for the buck as far as chain/sprocket combos(standard gearing)? Ideally, you want a swingarm with swingarm spools and a rear stand that lifts via the spools. Otherwise, the longer the stand is, the more leverage you get. If you buy the cheapy ones on ebay, expect that the wheels will have difficulty rolling and the attachment arms will be crappy. If you plan on working on bikes a lot, get the more expensive ones, if you don't, buy the cheaper ones and swear at them instead. Or modify them to make them better. On chains and sprockets, you ideally want the best chain possible...an X-ring chain, because properly cared for, it will easily last 30+ thousand miles. I've had them go that long on literbikes, and still be good, so spend a little more in advance and it'll save you a replacement in the future. Buy steel sprockets, not aluminum, and stick with the standard chain, as a 520 won't make a drat bit of difference unless you're fighting for the last 10/100th around the racetrack...but it will wear faster.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 20:50
|
|
|
So I'm going to be having some basic maintenance done and will be ordering parts online. I'll need a oil filter, oil, air filter, and oil/lube for the chain. Also, for coolant. Is that something I can get at autozone and the likes or do I need to order it online? I'm pretty sure the brakes are alright (1/2"-1" each) but I will check again. What all should I get? I don't have a manual or anything so I'm completely clueless on it all. (Brands, weight, etc). Is a clutch and throttle cable something that needs to be replaced or simply adjusted? I suppose I might as well get brake fluid as well. Also, what's the best site for all these items? Bike is a 1993 Ninja ZX-6e Thanks in advance.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 20:51
|
|
|
Christoff posted:So I'm going to be having some basic maintenance done and will be ordering parts online. I'll need a oil filter, oil, air filter, and oil/lube for the chain. Also, for coolant. Is that something I can get at autozone and the likes or do I need to order it online? I'm pretty sure the brakes are alright (1/2"-1" each) but I will check again. What all should I get? I don't have a manual or anything so I'm completely clueless on it all. (Brands, weight, etc). Is a clutch and throttle cable something that needs to be replaced or simply adjusted? I suppose I might as well get brake fluid as well. You'll probably be able to buy all of the above, except for possibly the air filter, at AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 22:13
|
|
|
Any idea how easy it is to turn an FZ-6 into a naked?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2009 23:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 16:14 |
|
|
^^ DiZ posted:Nice, glad I could help. As Z3n said, even if your timing has been bumped a tooth or two, it's a very simple procedure to set things right - even more so due to the GS being air cooled and naked. I think it's really unlikely that the chain actually jumped teeth on either of the cam sprockets, and it's more likely that your timing was just off due to there being no tension on the chain. I can walk you through the procedure to check your timing, once you get a new spring/cct.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2009 00:32
|
|