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I know wind noise is part of riding a motorcycle. But if I'm not wearing my scarf it's loud as hell for my Shoei RF-9000. Almost deafening. As far as I know it's a fairly decent helmet and such. So anything else I can do? I know someone posted that winter skirt thing for the helmet that makes a seal around your neck. Seems like that might help (if it doesn't get too hot)
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Jan 23, 2009 04:41
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Christoff posted:I know wind noise is part of riding a motorcycle. But if I'm not wearing my scarf it's loud as hell for my Shoei RF-9000. Almost deafening. As far as I know it's a fairly decent helmet and such. So anything else I can do? I know someone posted that winter skirt thing for the helmet that makes a seal around your neck. Seems like that might help (if it doesn't get too hot) Earplugs. I pretty much wear them every time I ride.
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Jan 23, 2009 05:04
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`Nemesis posted:Earplugs. I pretty much wear them every time I ride. I saw them mentioned. Obviously it sounds like a bad idea but there's ones that only block certain DBs right? So I don't just have a crappy helmet? 
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Jan 23, 2009 05:10
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Christoff posted:I saw them mentioned. Obviously it sounds like a bad idea but there's ones that only block certain DBs right? Just get the cheap soft kind. Usually there will be a decibel rating on the package, lower is best. I can pretty much hear everything I need to when mine are in. I can't hear the wind much though because my bike is ridiculously loud.
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Jan 23, 2009 05:21
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Simkin posted:Nice, glad I could help. As Z3n said, even if your timing has been bumped a tooth or two, it's a very simple procedure to set things right - even more so due to the GS being air cooled and naked. I think it's really unlikely that the chain actually jumped teeth on either of the cam sprockets, and it's more likely that your timing was just off due to there being no tension on the chain. I can walk you through the procedure to check your timing, once you get a new spring/cct. I just did the timing using an online manual and the exhaust cam was off by like 1/4 of a turn, I just set it to how the manual said but when I put the bike together I got a massive back fire and then just cranking, tested the motor and still no compression, I think I was a tooth off or something despite triple checking.
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Jan 23, 2009 05:44
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I was riding my CBR F3 and it came to a stop and the bike died. The lights were still on, I gave it some throttle, it came back on for a second, then died again. I thought it was maybe just out of gas or something, so I pushed it to a gas station, but no luck. The headlights are bright, the lights all work. When I press the starter button nothing happens except the headlight turns off while it's pressed down. There's no clicking or any sound at all. I think the battery should be charged enough, and the headlights are really bright. Does this sound like a blown fuse, or is there something else I should check?
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Jan 23, 2009 07:43
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DiZ posted:I just did the timing using an online manual and the exhaust cam was off by like 1/4 of a turn, I just set it to how the manual said but when I put the bike together I got a massive back fire and then just cranking, tested the motor and still no compression, I think I was a tooth off or something despite triple checking. Yeah, I remember how much of a pain in the rear end it was the first time I buttoned my valve train back together. I found the really tricky part was in knowing just how much the tension on the chain would rotate the cams, but once I figured that out, it was all good. Are you not getting compression in either of the cylinders, or just one bank?
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Jan 23, 2009 09:12
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Christoff posted:I saw them mentioned. Obviously it sounds like a bad idea but there's ones that only block certain DBs right? DISCLAIMER: I work for an earplug manufacturer. Unfortunately I don't get to do as much 'testing' as I would like. Earplugs work great for motorcycles because they are very good at blocking the frequencies that you find in 'wind noise'.
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Jan 23, 2009 14:47
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Christoff posted:I saw them mentioned. Obviously it sounds like a bad idea but there's ones that only block certain DBs right? You can't hear anything else over wind noise anyway. Noisy enviroments make you tired faster. Earplugs do not remove ALL noise, they just reduce the volume. I hear better when the overall noise levels are turned down. That's to say earplugs let me hear more. DiZ posted:I just did the timing using an online manual and the exhaust cam was off by like 1/4 of a turn, I just set it to how the manual said but when I put the bike together I got a massive back fire and then just cranking, tested the motor and still no compression, I think I was a tooth off or something despite triple checking. How did you check the timing? the cams should have three arrows on them. How did you check crank position?
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Jan 23, 2009 15:10
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Timing carried out by the manual, set the line after R.T to the pickup centre. Move exhaust came so that the 1 is pointing at the gasket sideways and 2 is facing up perpendicular to the motor. Count 18 links from 2 and set 3 to the 18th link for the inlet cam. As for the compression it seems both cyls are lacking, so I guess its either bad timing or bent inlet valves. The pictures may look a little off due to the angle of the camera.    
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Jan 23, 2009 15:31
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Did you replace the CCT? If you didn't, it's going to jump teeth every time you turn the engine over.Lawn posted:I was riding my CBR F3 and it came to a stop and the bike died. The lights were still on, I gave it some throttle, it came back on for a second, then died again. I thought it was maybe just out of gas or something, so I pushed it to a gas station, but no luck. There's a fuse at the starter solenoid, but I'd bet that you're getting wonky voltage out of the battery. Check that first. Earplugs: Can't live without some form of hearing protection, either plugs or in ear headphones. Z3n fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jan 23, 2009 |
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Jan 23, 2009 16:27
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Christoff posted:I saw them mentioned. Obviously it sounds like a bad idea but there's ones that only block certain DBs right? Aside from saving your hearing, it also makes riding way more comfortable.
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Jan 23, 2009 18:36
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Turns out it was the starter solenoid fuse. The bike is a '95, and for all I know it was the original fuse, but it wouldn't just blow for no reason would it? Is there anything else I should check so my bike doesn't die again?
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Jan 23, 2009 22:17
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Lawn posted:Turns out it was the starter solenoid fuse. The bike is a '95, and for all I know it was the original fuse, but it wouldn't just blow for no reason would it? Is there anything else I should check so my bike doesn't die again? Could have grounded out on something...Check the lines from the battery terminals on down to the starter and see if anything looks damaged or could be grounding on the frame.
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Jan 23, 2009 22:45
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So, uh, is it normal to be able to shift in between gears, or is my transmission screwed? This happened on the freeway shifting from 6th to 5th gear. I bought some new boots and rode with them the first time today, and during the shift I didn't push down as hard as a normally do. The bike revved like it was in neutral. Is this unheard of, or is my bike going to the shop immediately?
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Jan 24, 2009 00:13
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It happens, especially with new boots, try to remember to make more positive shifts. If it happens all the time, or you have to slam the shifter to get it to shift, then its time to worry.
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Jan 24, 2009 00:16
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Z3n posted:Did you replace the CCT? If you didn't, it's going to jump teeth every time you turn the engine over. yes, it was the very first thing I did.
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Jan 24, 2009 01:05
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Has anyone heard of QLink before? They make a supermoto that looks pretty cool, but I've never heard of them. Supposedly the XF 200 uses a Suzuki DR200 motor, and they're really cheap (MSRP ~2600). http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Qlink-Xf200-Supermoto-Sport-Motorcycle.aspx http://www.qlinkmotor.com/product.php?id=46
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Jan 24, 2009 03:15
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Okay today I put the cam cover back on, cranked the motor over with the starter, opened it back up and rechecked the timing and it was spot on still. There appears to be compression, not sure how much I need to borrow a compression gauge. I am just wondering how long it takes the fuel to reach the carbs after you have removed the tank and drained all the fuel from most of the hoses. I put the fuel tap on primer that lets the fuel flow even with the motor not running but I am not sure if the fuel has hit the carbs yet. How long does it take to refuel the carbs after a tank removal and refit? Edit - I also checked the spark, which was all good. I am pretty close to taking it to a shop and having to drop alot of cash 
DiZ fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Jan 24, 2009 |
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Jan 24, 2009 03:26
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Lawn posted:Has anyone heard of QLink before? They make a supermoto that looks pretty cool, but I've never heard of them. Supposedly the XF 200 uses a Suzuki DR200 motor, and they're really cheap (MSRP ~2600). My neighbor has a QLink scooter. I don't really have any experience with them, but from what I understand they're a Chinese company, with a reputation for poor reliability and build quality.
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Jan 24, 2009 03:43
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DiZ posted:Okay today I put the cam cover back on, cranked the motor over with the starter, opened it back up and rechecked the timing and it was spot on still. Ok, so the timing's in and the chain is taut across the cams? Fuel should fill the carbs on prime without an issue. Are you getting any back/afterfiring? If you cover the plug hole with your finger, you should get enough to push your finger off the hole. If you're not, you probably bent a valve when it came apart. If so, you're best off just buying a new engine, should be able to find one for cheap, and swapping the engine. You'll pay more time and parts dicking around with fixing yours than you will just getting a working engine.
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Jan 24, 2009 04:42
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I have a source for a complete, good GS500 top end. Doing a top end job on a GS is pretty darned cheap. It's just 4 valves.
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Jan 24, 2009 06:38
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-Timing is in and chain is correctly tensioned. -Confirmed spark. -Confirmed fuel reaching cylinders. -First time I pulled it apart and back together and attempted to start it I got one backfire then nothing. -Second/third times no backfires just cranking and no starts. - With the spark plugs out there is a good rush of gasses out the spark holes however with my fingers on the holes they are not pushed out of the holes. - Used the dodgy light test to see if I could see any light coming from the exhaust ports with the valves in the shut position and it appeared the exhaust valves are seated correctly when closed. This basically confirms lack of compression and it would seem it is the culprit is the intake valves. I am thinking of pulling the head off myself then giving it to a shop to replace the bent bits and then get some new gaskets and reinstall it myself, saves transporting the bike around. We just started a long weekend in Australia and so I will have to wait till tuesday for any stores to be open.  Oh yes and my license upgrade test is on Monday so I will be borrowing a bike for that it seems. Talk about bad luck and even worse timing. I would of thought I would of been safe from mechanical trouble like this on a bike with less then 10k miles on it.
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Jan 24, 2009 06:43
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realistically, your CCT must have been bad to start with. They're a very, very uncommon failure on suzukis. (to the point I didn't even consider it...) YOu can likely get away without a new headgasket.. those are expensive. This s really less of a deal than it would appear. :-) this sort of rebuild is a "quick afternoon" of work for someone who's got some mechanical ability. And a day or two on the weekend for a total noob.
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Jan 24, 2009 07:15
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Well turns out the exhaust valves are indeed bent. I pressurized the cylinders and found 100 percent leakage out the exhaust ports. Pulled the head off and there are contact marks between the cylinders and the exhaust valves and you can see the small gap allowing all the gas to escape. Looks like I'll get some quotes from a shop or two to replace the valves and check the clearances then reinstall it next week.
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Jan 24, 2009 12:15
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Lawn posted:QLink This picture tells me all I need to know about their build quality. 
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Jan 24, 2009 17:04
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DiZ posted:Well turns out the exhaust valves are indeed bent. I pressurized the cylinders and found 100 percent leakage out the exhaust ports. Pulled the head off and there are contact marks between the cylinders and the exhaust valves and you can see the small gap allowing all the gas to escape. You may have better luck just sourcing a GS500 top end on ebay and dropping that in.
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Jan 24, 2009 17:23
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I should have probably asked this months ago. On the last two days of the season last year, I briefly lost traction in the back end while going in a straight line (once on gravel, once on wet pavement, both due to enthusiastic application of throttle). Both times the back end kicked out a tiny bit and I just kept the throttle steady, letting the bike ride it out. I've been wondering if that was the best course of action or if I should have done something different. I know if you lock up your rear brakes, you're supposed to keep them locked, but I don't think slamming on my brakes would have helped my situation any.
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Jan 24, 2009 18:24
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Ironic you just posted this, but yes, yes, you did do the right thing. This is why
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Jan 24, 2009 18:48
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Lawn posted:Has anyone heard of QLink before? They make a supermoto that looks pretty cool, but I've never heard of them. Supposedly the XF 200 uses a Suzuki DR200 motor, and they're really cheap (MSRP ~2600). You've inspired me to visit their dealership again. They normally only sell Chinese and Korean poo poo, like the Chinese knock-off of the Korean knock-off of the Suzuki SV650. Last time I visited, these were the only reason to go. Hence their name, CBX Man.
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Jan 24, 2009 18:51
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Uthor posted:I should have probably asked this months ago. Nope, that's perfect. Here's why: So you have the back wheel spinning, say...5mph faster than the road speed. It'll step out a certain amount, say, 15 degrees off of center. If you open the throttle more, the rear tire will spin faster, and you'll swing the back end out more. Not ideal, most of the time. If you shut the throttle off with the bike 15 degrees out of center, it'll regain traction and immediately going to try and go straight. Now, in a car that'd just put you off the road. On a bike, it'll go into a tankslapper, which is made worse by the fact that you just shut the throttle off, transfering even more weight to the front. Now, should you do that, you can still save it...relax on the bars, crack the throttle open to get the weight off the front and let it sort itself out. Unless you have a serious problem with the setup of your bike (bad enough to make it unridable normally), it will regain stability, as the bike wants to go straight when it's on the throttle. Under no circumstances on the street you should attempt to grab the bars to stop it from tankslapping. EVER. You will end up increasing the slapper to the point where the bike goes out from under you. This is a perfect example of why you shouldn't do that. You can see him set it down and the tankslapper starts and then gets worse: It's because he locks up on the bars and the tankslapper gets worse from him trying to fight it. The correct reaction to a tank slapper is to relax on the bars, crack on the throttle, and try and get up and on the pegs as much as possible to avoid contributing your weight to the motion of the tankslapper. Sometimes it'll slap your feet off the pegs, well...it happens. Try and stay on the bike and off the bars with the throttle on, and it'll come back. Finally, should you come into the worst of all situations: You're on the brakes, you hit something, or the back end steps out and the bike starts tankslapping while you really need to be turning into the corner...you can actually still turn the bike. Just gently push forward on the inside grip, even if it's slapping back and forth, and your hand being there will cause the bike to turn in. It's terrifying the first time you do it, but it's better than running off the road, and if you push it into the corner despite the slapper and roll on the throttle, it'll usually straighten out before you hit the apex of the corner. As to leaving the rear brake locked: Sometimes that's ok. Sometimes it's not. In situations where it's not, the correct solution to a rear wheel being locked is to gently let off the brake. The idea is to let it spin up without it snapping back into place. So you come off the brake gently and the tire starts spinning again, and as you slowly let off the brake more and more, it'll move progressively more back in line, the reverse of spinning it up on the throttle. Or, if you've got a good sense of timing and it's wagging the back end, you can just let it go when the wheels are back in line. Expect a small amount of wiggle when everything comes back together, but it's minor and the bike will regain stability if you relax and let it do it's thing. Long post, sorry. And I want a CBX. Z3n fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Jan 24, 2009 |
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Jan 24, 2009 20:11
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Z3n posted:You may have better luck just sourcing a GS500 top end on ebay and dropping that in. There is one motor on ebay in Aust, it is a 91 model but its only 50 bucks so I will keep an eye on it and use it as back up if noone will recon the head. I am not too keen on using such old components, I know that the engines are more then likely the same but there may have been a slight redesign.
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Jan 25, 2009 00:54
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Afaik, there were no internal changes after ~1990 (?), and those were only to the carbueration.
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Jan 25, 2009 05:03
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So a friend of mine lost my DRZ's keys. Whats the best solution to this problem and how much can I expect it to cost him?
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Jan 25, 2009 07:27
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Z3n posted:*tankslapping* Simkin posted:Afaik, there were no internal changes after ~1990 (?), and those were only to the carbueration. Not quite. You can swap parts from 1977-2009, with the GS300, 400, 425, 450, and 500. There are some other changes though. Gear ratios changed from model to model. Not often and not a lot. And I think they changed the headgasket a couple times. Nothing that would really stop cross compatibility. The GS500E and GS500F are essentially the same bike. Excepting that the GS500F block has some unmilled passages, and fittings for an oil cooler. This means if you block off the oil cooler, or don't install one... your main bearings get to go for a spin. As long as you're not swapping bottom ends ;-) that's not a problem. pr0zac posted:So a friend of mine lost my DRZ's keys. Whats the best solution to this problem and how much can I expect it to cost him? Nerobro fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Jan 25, 2009 |
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Jan 25, 2009 08:33
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pr0zac posted:So a friend of mine lost my DRZ's keys. Whats the best solution to this problem and how much can I expect it to cost him? I replaced the locks on my f650 for about €100 after the ignition was smashed by a junkie trying to rob it, its not a hard job, took about 2 hours all together from start to finish
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Jan 25, 2009 12:52
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Nerobro posted:
Can't a dealer cut a key from the VIN? I've done this with an older non-RFID key for a car and it cost me <$5.
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Jan 25, 2009 14:52
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goku chewbacca posted:Can't a dealer cut a key from the VIN? I've done this with an older non-RFID key for a car and it cost me <$5. I don't know about the VIN. But I think some can cut it from the the key code that is either on the key or in the manual. But that doesn't account for wear and tear. A fresh key may not work very well if everything is all worn down. My previous owner had a new key made and it only works on the little storage compartment and not the ignition. Not sure if he had it made from the VIN or keycode.
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Jan 25, 2009 17:59
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goku chewbacca posted:Can't a dealer cut a key from the VIN? I've done this with an older non-RFID key for a car and it cost me <$5.
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Jan 25, 2009 19:25
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Check eBay too. A lot of times, manufacturers only cut a few thousand or so different keys, and just cycle them over and over. It relies purely on the one-in-a-few-thousand chance that you wont park your bike next to another one with the same key number. There are quite a few eBay sellers that specialize in bike keys.
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Jan 25, 2009 23:23
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