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Even that's likely an overestimate. IIRC, there's only three festiva keysets. Consider that ;-) Even with modern locks, and modern production facilities, I'll bet there's less than 100 keys per (low end) bike. I'd also bet that high end bikes use a combination of key, and resistor value, or rfid tag.
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Jan 25, 2009 23:27
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Aside from stuff like "check the oil and the tire pressure," what do I need to know about keeping a motorcycle clean and well-maintained that I won't find in the owner's manual? I do have a dealership within 10 miles of my house, but I don't want to just walk in blind and hand them my wallet. basx fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2009 01:21
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Get a battery tender. Make sure you have/use the correct weight oil for all of the different oil systems on your bike. It doesn't hurt to take apart the electrical connections once in a while to spray WD-40 in them. If there's chrome on your bike, don't let rust spots develop. The list goes on and on.
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Jan 26, 2009 02:50
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Phat_Albert posted:Check eBay too. A lot of times, manufacturers only cut a few thousand or so different keys, and just cycle them over and over. I got some keys for my 77' Kawasaki this way. I just checked the code on the seat lock cylinder and ordered a matching pair for $10 on ebay. They work great.
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Jan 26, 2009 03:10
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MrKatharsis posted:If there's chrome on your bike, don't let rust spots develop. The list goes on and on. How do I prevent rust spots from developing? And where is "the list?" God I am such a newbie.
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Jan 26, 2009 15:30
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So my father highsided his recently bought '07 xb12ss (less than 300 miles on it  ). We live in Brazil and the harley dealerships around here have really bad service and overcharge parts like their lives depend on it. Could you guys point me out to any shop or dealership that would send parts overseas ? It's basically small stuff (gear lever, mirror, turn light, maybe the gearbox cover...)Bonus pics of the damage (couldn't get a farther one, no space in the garage)    father's leg
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Jan 26, 2009 22:53
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Primo Itch posted:So my father highsided his recently bought '07 xb12ss (less than 300 miles on it Ouch, I hope your dad heals up fast. As to shipping, if you can't find a place that'll ship overseas, I'm willing to reship stuff for people...I've done it before. You purchase the parts, have them shipped to my place, I verify that everything is good (in case of used parts) and I rebox as needed and then send them to you. Honestly, though, that damage looks pretty minor, I'd just touch it up a little with some appropriate paint and call it good. Colorrite does great color matches.
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Jan 26, 2009 23:03
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Primo Itch posted:drat, that looks pretty nasty. The sheer mechanics of highsiding anywhere other than on a track are pretty ... 
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Jan 27, 2009 01:23
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What is the best way to fix stripped oil pan threads? I finally got around to doing my first change on a recently purchased 91 cb750, only to discover the prev owner neglected to keep the washer between the drain bolt and pan.. I didn't notice it right away cause the bolt has one of those faux washer looking deals around it, fooled me at a glance. bolt now doesn't thread in all the way... replacing the pan on my bike would cost $160 for the new pan OEM, and seems to be a fairly easy job.. the pan comes off the bottom without removing anything other than the exhaust pipes Is there a cheaper way to fix this? or is this my only course of action Also, should I just avoid using the bike until this is fixed? After re-installing the bolt as snug as it goes before unthreading itself the engine doesn't leak while running, but I keep having visions of it popping out on the freeway.
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Jan 27, 2009 02:09
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What worked for me was getting a longer bolt with the same thread width/pitch. YMMV.
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Jan 27, 2009 02:27
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Z3n posted:Ouch, I hope your dad heals up fast. Hey, thanks for the offer... I've researched some shops online and now an going to the local dealership to see their prices... If they're not insanely higher than those in dollars in just buying there, but thanks anyway ^^ quote:drat, that looks pretty nasty. The sheer mechanics of highsiding anywhere other than on a track are pretty ... Getting dirt on the road and loosing the back wheel on a turn is a highside right ? :p
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Jan 27, 2009 12:09
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Primo Itch posted:
Highside is when the back end slides out, then it suddenly catches traction again so the back end is pulled swiftly towards the inside of the turn which causes the rider to be thrown like a slingshot towards the outside. Losing traction, not regaining it but falling towards the inside of the turn is a lowside.
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Jan 27, 2009 12:46
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So I have my new Harley Sportster sitting in my garage, waiting for spring. The problem? My garage is at the bottom of a tremendously steep driveway. That means my first experience riding this bike is going to be going up a very steep hill with almost zero starting momentum. Any tips on how not to flip the bike over on top of me or otherwise destroy it?
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Jan 27, 2009 15:42
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basx posted:So I have my new Harley Sportster sitting in my garage, waiting for spring. Put it in the back of a truck and drive it up?  You could walk it up in gear, using the clutch to modulate how much pull the engine is giving. That's kind of iffy on a steep slope though, especially if you don't know what you're doing. Probably get it as far back in the garage as you can, then ride it out. A bike wants to stay upright when it's in motion, so if you were going even 10mph it's unlikely to fall over on you.
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Jan 27, 2009 16:11
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basx posted:So I have my new Harley Sportster sitting in my garage, waiting for spring. You arent going to flip a Sporty over on yourself without really trying. Even on a steep driveway. That bike has more than enough torque to just lug you and it up the hill slowly. Feather the clutch out and ride up the hill with just a little gas. I think once you get going you'll realize its not as bad as you think.
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Jan 27, 2009 16:42
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Thanks, guys. So if I can't flip it over, even with 200 pounds of me on the seat and the front wheel pointing at the sky, that takes care of one concern. My only other is the rear wheel losing traction and slipping out from under me halfway up, then watching my beautiful Harley slide down the asphalt slope, over the edge of the driveway, and plummet into the trees below. The hill has me pretty paranoid because my regular ride is a truck with rear-wheel drive and no weight on the back. Too much gas or a little rain and I'm spinning my rear tires trying to get the truck up the slope. (no longer the case, I threw 300 pounds of sandbags in the back of the bed) \/ Asphalt driveway. Eyeballing it, I'd say a 30 degree slope. It's pretty brutal. basx fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Jan 27, 2009 16:54
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So from your description, the driveway is not concrete? Is it mud/gravel/ice, or what? The seat on your sportster is mounted in front of the rear axle, so your weight just helps keep the front end down. Unless the hill is insanely steep enough to put the mass of your body over/behind the axle. If you're to that point, its a whole other story then.
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Jan 27, 2009 17:48
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Would trading my '95 CBR F3 with 17k miles for a 2000 KLR 650 with 21k miles be reasonable? I don't know if KLR's have any issues besides the doohickey, but I've had enough of taking off all of the plastics any time I have to work on the CBR. Plus, it'd be easier to stay under the speed limit on a KLR. KBB lists the CBR as being higher value, so I'm not sure if I should go for a straight up trade or try and sell it and buy a different one.
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Jan 27, 2009 22:16
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Lawn posted:Would trading my '95 CBR F3 with 17k miles for a 2000 KLR 650 with 21k miles be reasonable? I don't know if KLR's have any issues besides the doohickey, but I've had enough of taking off all of the plastics any time I have to work on the CBR. Plus, it'd be easier to stay under the speed limit on a KLR. KBB lists the CBR as being higher value, so I'm not sure if I should go for a straight up trade or try and sell it and buy a different one. That's a good trade in my book, if you're looking for a thumper.
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Jan 27, 2009 22:37
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Alright, well, after trying a couple ghetto temporary fixes I've concluded that the threads in my pan are just gone. I already ordered a new OEM pan, gasket, drain bolt and washers (and header gaskets since the r&r calls for discarding a lot of old ones) my question is, the oil pan replacement procedure seems like something a novice such as myself can perform.. apparently all that has to come off is the exhaust, oil hoses that go to the pan, and the pan itself. i guess I have two questions -- one, is this a feasible job to do without a lift? I have a paddock stand, but that's it. (bike is a '91 cb750. has somewhat decent ground clearance) 2nd, anything else I should be aware of? This is the first bike I've owned where I'm taking all maint/repairs into my own hands and I get apprehensive about doing things.
Datsun Honeybee fucked around with this message at 09:57 on Jan 28, 2009 |
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Jan 28, 2009 09:55
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I've done that exact replacement on a GS550. While the bike was sitting on it's centerstand. I could have probably done it on the sidestand as well. Be sure to get a new gasket. Grease the gasket before installation. tighten the bolts holding the pan on working from the middle out.
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Jan 28, 2009 12:11
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Datsun Honeybee posted:Alright, well, after trying a couple ghetto temporary fixes I've concluded that the threads in my pan are just gone. I guess you've already ordered the pan, but can you cancel it? Why not just tap a larger drain bolt in the pan? Hell I bet you could just chase thread with the size you have now and possibly rehabilitate the current size.
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Jan 28, 2009 16:36
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Is it normal for the oil light to come on during heavy braking? I'm using 5W-40 oil, and it's at the right level. Is there a possibility of this hurting my engine? I'm riding a zzr-250 (a ninja 250 with fairings).
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Jan 31, 2009 03:45
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Charun posted:Is it normal for the oil light to come on during heavy braking? I'm using 5W-40 oil, and it's at the right level. Is there a possibility of this hurting my engine? You're probably a little low on oil. That happened to me once after a 3-400 mile highway trip, and after I topped off the oil it stopped happening.
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Jan 31, 2009 05:25
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Alright so tomorrow I'm doing my oil pan replacement -- I'm a little worried about removing the nuts from the exhaust manifold studs, as the bike is 18 yrs. old and I'm pretty sure they've never been removed before. The last thing I want to do is strip studs on a repair job for fixing stripped threads elsewhere. Should I be fine if I can get WD-40 in there and let it soak awhile?
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Jan 31, 2009 08:40
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edit: problem solved in the beginner's thread
AF fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Feb 1, 2009 |
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Jan 31, 2009 09:49
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Datsun Honeybee: Get something better for unfucking stuck bolts than wd-40. You should be able to find non-flammable liquid wrench or PB-blaster or whatever, so that even if that stuff doesn't work, you can break out a heat wrech to make sure things come apart. 
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Jan 31, 2009 10:10
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yeah, wd40 won't do it but penetrating oil should help, and if you don't have an impact gun, look for one of these at a local auto shop. any kind of an impact driver will work wonders.
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Jan 31, 2009 12:31
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Well, just as a slight update as I wait for my oil to drain, the exhaust came off without a hitch with just my 3/4 ratchet, surprisingly the bolts were not seized badly at all. Now then, with air/oil cooled bikes such as mine, should I be switching weights in the summer? I live in phoenix where it gets to a toasty 112 F in summer time. Right now I'm running the bike using 10w-40 full synthetic oil
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Jan 31, 2009 20:19
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Datsun Honeybee posted:Well, just as a slight update as I wait for my oil to drain, the exhaust came off without a hitch with just my 3/4 ratchet, surprisingly the bolts were not seized badly at all. Not the same bike, but zook recommends 10w-40 for the DR650 (also air/oil) year round. If anything you could go lighter if it gets very very cold but 10w40 is pretty much perfect for hot weather.
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Jan 31, 2009 21:07
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 Click here for the full 800x600 image. I'm toying with the idea of replacing my rather bulky gauge box with something else, preferably some high tech poo poo with lots of features. There's loads of gauge manufacturers found via google, but has anyone got anything in specific to recommend?
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Feb 1, 2009 18:57
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Who can tell me about Pirelli Diablo Stradas? I'm normally a Michelin fan, but I'm reading alot of great reviews on the Pirellis, and their price cant be beat. Anyone like them? Hate them? I'm looking for something for the Bandit that will offer a combination of good grip and longevity.
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Feb 2, 2009 04:03
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Well today was... crappy. I managed to get the old oil pan and gasket off (18 yr. old gaskets sure are fun to remove.), install the new pan, new gasket, and all fasteners torqued in with no issues. About the shittiest thing that could ever happen, happened, and whilst I was moving around to the other side to grab something, the paddock stand the bike was mounted on broke, and my bike fell over on its side. I've been riding six years and have never, not once dropped a bike. I'm still shaken by this The damage seems to just be a bent control lever and a gas tank scuff that buffed off. With that out of the way, my question now is if anyone knows of an easy way to mount a 4-into-2 exhaust back onto a bike. I have a floor jack, but that's about it as far as lifting equipment goes. I could just not for the life of me get the pipes lined up with the manifold. What a dumb thing to get stuck on :P
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Feb 2, 2009 04:37
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Phat_Albert posted:I'm looking for something for the Bandit that will offer a combination of good grip and longevity. I've been rocking a set of Metzler Z6 on my ZR7s for ~15000km, and they've still got life left in them. It's kind of spooky, actually. Price: A Avail: A Longevity: A+ Grip-Tarmac: B+ Grip-Wet: B- Grip-Gravel: D Grip-Snow: 
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Feb 2, 2009 05:04
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Ola posted:
I have a device called Vapor for my KLR, I haven't installed it yet but I do have it. I have to say I'm impressed with it, it came with pretty much everything I need to install it, and it all looks like pretty good quality gear. I'll hopefully mount it all up this week sometime, but it seems to be pretty universally liked by folks who have it. It has three screens you can togggle between for all the data it displays, I just wish the primary screen would show engine temp instead of ambient temp. No biggie though. http://trailtech.net/vapor.html Now a question- I, being a dummy, overoiled my air filter and fouled my spark plug. Kawasaki says to wring out the filter after oiling it, but how much do I wring out? Just a good squeeze, or as much as I possibly can, or what? I have No Toil cleaner and oil, if it matters. Or should I just get a paper filter?
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Feb 2, 2009 16:35
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That Vapor thing looks pretty cool, but I'd hate to give up my fuel gauge and gear indicator. No shut up! Gear indicators are cool I also found some classy and advanced ones here http://www.motogadget.com/ But for now I'll leave the idea as just an idea and not cause myself all kinds of electronic grief. EvilDonald posted:
I just coat it evenly inside and out, then squeeze it a bit (with a plastic bag) to soak the oil through. It shouldn't drip and should only be moist to the touch. If you squeeze your over oiled one with a clean rag it should probably remove the excess oil just fine. Remember to wipe the inside of your airbox before you put it back in. Now for my Q *shines GS light on nearest cloud, waits for Nerobro to emerge from Batcave* My speedo quit working in November, which was weird since I'd replaced the cable only two months previous. Never got around to checking it properly before today, turns out the cable is fine and the speedo worked when I spun the wheel end of it with an electric drill (fun!). I shone a light in the cable hole of the speedo gear and spun the wheel, the little thingy inside didn't turn. Is the gear completely hosed or is there a chance to repair it? If not I'll just email a junkyard and see if they have one, I suspect a new one from my local dealer will be a$$rape.
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Feb 2, 2009 17:34
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I've toasted a speedo drive once. The gear inside the speedo drive is pretty delicate, and if you install the front wheel with the speedo drive on wrong, it will go on. And you'll torque down the front wheel, and you won't notice anything wrong. ... except the speedo doesn't work. The speedo drives are cheap. $15 or so on ebay. Pick up another. I'm fairly sure they're a universal GS piece.
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Feb 2, 2009 17:43
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Ola posted:
http://www.veypor.com/veypor.html Without a doubt, the most badass gauges around. They allow everything. Gear indicator, speedo, RPM, 0-60 times, quarter mile runs, HP estimation via acceleration...basically, everything that makes techie gearheads  I destroyed mine at infineon Phat_Albert posted:Who can tell me about Pirelli Diablo Stradas? I'm normally a Michelin fan, but I'm reading alot of great reviews on the Pirellis, and their price cant be beat. I've run the Z6s (basically the same tire, different tread pattern) and they were the best S/T tires I've ever run. G/f has a Strada front/Z6 rear on the Z1000, and they're fantastic. Highly recommended, little shorter (10/20%) on life than some other S/T tires, but well worth the tradeoff. It's a toss up between a set of those for the trip to canada and a set of Pilot Road 2s.
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Feb 2, 2009 18:31
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Yeah there were loads on ebay, but most don't ship to Norway and most also didn't look exactly like mine although I'm sure they'll fit. I'll shoot the junkyard an email, they have heaps of UJMs. Also another question, I just noticed one of my bar ends have fallen off. The other one also seemed a bit loose. How are they attached to the handlebars? Just press fit? Maybe I'll just rip the last one off and put on some aftermarket ones, but I bet they are all chromed skulls or purple devils horns or whatever.
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Feb 2, 2009 18:31
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| # ? May 15, 2024 23:59 |
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Ola posted:Yeah there were loads on ebay, but most don't ship to Norway and most also didn't look exactly like mine although I'm sure they'll fit. I'll shoot the junkyard an email, they have heaps of UJMs. Some use a piece of rubber that's squished by a nut, and some thread into the handlebar. I'd bet yours are the first.
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Feb 2, 2009 18:33
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