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So I'm trying to get my XT250 running, and it has great compression, charged battery, I'm assuming fuel delivery, everything except Spark. I have a brand new plug on it and all the wires seem fine after tracing the ignition system ones back to the battery and all over, so I'm assuming its the starter. Where should I be looking and what should I be checking here?
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Feb 2, 2009 19:42
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You can check spark by removing the plug, reattaching it to the wire, and holding the spark plug against the engine block while trying to crank the engine. Odds are in favor of fuel delivery being the problem, though. Spray some starter fluid into the carb and give it another shot.
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Feb 2, 2009 19:48
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Z3n posted:Some use a piece of rubber that's squished by a nut, and some thread into the handlebar. I'd bet yours are the first. Yeah, there are no threads in there. So any similar rubbery thing should fit right? Should I go for chromed skulls, leather frills or maybe some plastic cast girls with internal LEDs? Chill_Bebop posted:So I'm trying to get my XT250 running, and it has great compression, charged battery, I'm assuming fuel delivery, everything except Spark. I have a brand new plug on it and all the wires seem fine after tracing the ignition system ones back to the battery and all over, so I'm assuming its the starter. Where should I be looking and what should I be checking here? If the starter is shot, it shouldn't spin at all or perhaps very slowly when you hit the button (do you have a kick starter as well?). You can look for spark by holding the plug against the block and hitting the starter, at the same time* you can sniff the plughole for gas to confirm some fuel is getting there. Maybe it just needs some choke? If it has an on/off/prime petcock it might need a few seconds of priming. * edit: not exactly at the same time, don't burn your nose off Ola fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Feb 2, 2009 |
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Feb 2, 2009 19:52
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MrKatharsis posted:You can check spark by removing the plug, reattaching it to the wire, and holding the spark plug against the engine block while trying to crank the engine. Done this, no Spark. Ola posted:If the starter is shot, it shouldn't spin at all or perhaps very slowly when you hit the button (do you have a kick starter as well?). You can look for spark by holding the plug against the block and hitting the starter, at the same time you can sniff the plughole for gas to confirm some fuel is getting there. I can smell gas. Its kick start only, and it freely turns over. I'm convinced its something in the Ignition system not letting it fire, but I bow to other suggestions as well.
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Feb 2, 2009 19:56
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Chill_Bebop posted:So I'm trying to get my XT250 running, and it has great compression, charged battery, I'm assuming fuel delivery, everything except Spark. I have a brand new plug on it and all the wires seem fine after tracing the ignition system ones back to the battery and all over, so I'm assuming its the starter. Where should I be looking and what should I be checking here? Ok so I saw you have an '81 model. Firstly, your battery most likely has jack to do with anything other than running lights. You also don't have a starter, per se. You kinda are the starter. I'll save the "how kickstart bikes work" speech for Nero to do, though. I've answered my own questions. You do have a killswitch on the bike. Since it's your first bike, I'm guessing you don't have a multimeter. Go out and buy this. Then we can find your problem super easy. kdc67 fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Feb 2, 2009 |
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Feb 2, 2009 21:59
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Chill_Bebop posted:Done this, no Spark. First thing I'd check is the coil, if you have a multimeter check for voltage on the primary connection (the ones that don't go to the spark plugs). Otherwise it could be some trouble with the ignition module, if it's an 81 it might have points and I don't really know how to troubleshoot those. For all I know there's like a wick in there that needs to be soaked in kerosene. 
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Feb 3, 2009 00:10
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Heeeeeeey I have 2 points bikes older than his. No kerosene needed. *glare* He could also possibly have a short in his killswitch. Though yes, the coil is what I'd be looking at first, too. Chill, I'd also pick up some manuals on ebay if you're going to do your own work. Right now there's this Clymer manual, a factory service manual, and a better shape Clymer. Everyone's helpful here, but they're not really going to be able to tell you how to do things like check your timing with their crazy "electric" start bikes. If it is your coil, I've already found you one. They're about $76 on bikebandit. 
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Feb 3, 2009 00:38
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Thanks for the suggestions, its exactly what I needed to hear. I actually have a Multimeter at a different house i forgot i had, this Friday i'm going to bring it over to check stuff out. And I actually already have a Clymer manual that's been invaluable for the stuff i've already done. Came with the bike, thank god. kdc67: Man, my coil on the bike looks like its in way better shape than the one in that ebay auction.I guess thats what i'm going to focus on when i get the chance to work on it. I'll be sure to update on my progress.
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Feb 3, 2009 01:58
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Hmm, I have a sneaking feeling I'm about to appear very very stupid. I've got a new (to me) '93 Honda CB400 and I've just done my first long trip, 300 miles of motorway from the Midlands to Dorset and back. It started snowing on the way back up on Sunday, and thus by Monday morning, there was about 2 inches of snow on the ground. I had to be in work for 6am, so I fired up the bike and off I went. However, I noticed a previous problem had gotten worse. When I used to acclerate really really hard, there was some sort of rat-tat-tat noise coming from behind me, something similar to the noise you get when you use a drill to screw a screw in and it gets to the limit and starts making a rat-tat-tat noise without going in any further. Anyway, I now don't need to acclerate as hard to get the noise, but I thought that it might be something to do with the snow and ice on the ground, maybe to do with losing traction. Someone had suggested that it was a problem with my shocks, but I had a horrible vision that it's actually my chain slipping off the sprocket and hitting the next tooth.
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Feb 3, 2009 14:40
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Orange Someone posted:
It's very unlikely that it's slipping like that, but it could be oscillating up and down and striking the swingarm or some of the sprung parts as the rear suspension compresses. Check your chain tension and adjust it.
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Feb 3, 2009 15:30
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Chill_Bebop posted:Done this, no Spark. Then you need to start chasing the circuit back. Does it have a coil or a magneto?
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Feb 3, 2009 16:21
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My DRZ really needs the jetting corrected, so seeing as I'll be moving the next few weeks and can't ride, I figure the correct response is to buy an upgraded carb to put on at the end of the month. Then correct the jetting on that. I know someone here (Phat Albert?) did a carb upgrade on their DRZ, was hoping to get some suggestions and tips before I dive in. Probably gonna go with: http://shop.thumpertalk.com/product_p/int_keihin_drzfcrmx.htm Should definitely be doable in a few hours right?
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Feb 3, 2009 18:06
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pr0zac posted:My DRZ really needs the jetting corrected, so seeing as I'll be moving the next few weeks and can't ride, I figure the correct response is to buy an upgraded carb to put on at the end of the month. Then correct the jetting on that. I know someone here (Phat Albert?) did a carb upgrade on their DRZ, was hoping to get some suggestions and tips before I dive in. Probably gonna go with: http://shop.thumpertalk.com/product_p/int_keihin_drzfcrmx.htm Should definitely be doable in a few hours right? I'm buying this kit for my DRZ as well. Probably going to grab it towards the end of march, just in time to dial it in a tad before my first track day. This is the best kit you can get and there is tons of reading on thumpertalk to get you pretty close to what the jetting should be. I haven't worked on the new carb but I've messed with the stock one enough. Let me know if you have issues and maybe I can help...if not, maybe I'll be asking you in a few months.
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Feb 3, 2009 18:56
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pr0zac posted:My DRZ really needs the jetting corrected, so seeing as I'll be moving the next few weeks and can't ride, I figure the correct response is to buy an upgraded carb to put on at the end of the month. Then correct the jetting on that. I know someone here (Phat Albert?) did a carb upgrade on their DRZ, was hoping to get some suggestions and tips before I dive in. Probably gonna go with: http://shop.thumpertalk.com/product_p/int_keihin_drzfcrmx.htm Should definitely be doable in a few hours right? Yup. It'll be a little longer if you have never pulled the carb on the bike before, and count on some time for figuing out what hoses need to be routed where, but none of that is a big deal. There should be a lot of info out there on the correct jetting for mods for a DRZ on TT.
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Feb 3, 2009 18:56
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Anyone with painting experience? At some point before spring I'm going to remove some rust spots from the frame and the exhaust and touch it up. My local cheap auto-mega-mart has a black high temp paint which should go nicely on the pipes, but for the frame I'm considering some grey "rim paint" which supposedly resists impact better. The front of the frame is worst affected, I assume heat and abrasive road grime are the culprits and that this rim paint might hold up better. It's also cheap enough that I can try color matching in a hidden area, then throw if away if it's terrible. Ideas?
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Feb 3, 2009 19:17
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cmorrow001 posted:I'm buying this kit for my DRZ as well. Probably going to grab it towards the end of march, just in time to dial it in a tad before my first track day. Are you getting the 39mm or the 41mm? What the heck is the difference really? I've never replaced a carb alone before, but I've got a friend who'll help me out who knows what hes doing.
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Feb 3, 2009 19:45
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I ran the FCR39 on my DRZ, and I can tell you one thing, its like a motor swap. Its a whole different game with that carb on there. Throttle response, and acceleration is through the roof compared to stock. I didnt have a hard time dialing mine in at all. I just followed the directions from thumpertalk. The only thing I did have to play with was the accellerator pump. The carb I got was off a YZ426, so the pump cycle was way too long. I shortened it up a good amount, and it was done. With minimal fiddling, I had it running 10x better than the stocker. Before you go dropping half a grand on that carb, look around eBay. I got my carb for $120 out the door. I then bought the appropriate jets and needle, and it was all done for around $170. A far cry from $561, and it was the same setup. Either way you do it, its highly recommended. Get your poo poo from eBay and save the other $400 for the wheelie tickets you'll get.
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Feb 3, 2009 23:40
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I wonder if something like that exists for the DR650SE ... According to this thread on ADV, the FCR39MX is a good upgrade for the 650 as well. Hmmmmmm. Would I gain much if I stuck with the stock exhaust? I really hate the way aftermarkets sound on that bike. (Case in point) Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Feb 4, 2009 |
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Feb 4, 2009 00:01
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EvilDonald posted:Then you need to start chasing the circuit back. Does it have a coil or a magneto? A Coil. Im going to start chasing wires and circuits back this friday.
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Feb 4, 2009 00:33
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Phat_Albert posted:I ran the FCR39 on my DRZ, and I can tell you one thing, its like a motor swap. Its a whole different game with that carb on there. Throttle response, and acceleration is through the roof compared to stock. How badly did your fuel mileage suffer? I got 85 miles to a full tank on Sunday flogging the crap out of the thing. If its going to drop substantially I'll probably throw a larger tank onto the pile of purchases I'm not telling my girlfriend about also.
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Feb 4, 2009 01:12
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Ola posted:Anyone with painting experience? At some point before spring I'm going to remove some rust spots from the frame and the exhaust and touch it up. My local cheap auto-mega-mart has a black high temp paint which should go nicely on the pipes, but for the frame I'm considering some grey "rim paint" which supposedly resists impact better. The front of the frame is worst affected, I assume heat and abrasive road grime are the culprits and that this rim paint might hold up better. It's also cheap enough that I can try color matching in a hidden area, then throw if away if it's terrible. Want durable and easy? Check this page out: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Why_truck_bedliner_is_the_best_paint_for_your_bike
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Feb 4, 2009 01:26
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pr0zac posted:My DRZ really needs the jetting corrected, so seeing as I'll be moving the next few weeks and can't ride, I figure the correct response is to buy an upgraded carb to put on at the end of the month. Then correct the jetting on that. I know someone here (Phat Albert?) did a carb upgrade on their DRZ, was hoping to get some suggestions and tips before I dive in. Probably gonna go with: http://shop.thumpertalk.com/product_p/int_keihin_drzfcrmx.htm Should definitely be doable in a few hours right? That kit is sold out constantly, and they dont restock very much. Check ebay. On Australian ebay nothing has been listed under "FCR" in 4 months, iv given up 
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Feb 4, 2009 02:44
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pr0zac posted:How badly did your fuel mileage suffer? I got 85 miles to a full tank on Sunday flogging the crap out of the thing. If its going to drop substantially I'll probably throw a larger tank onto the pile of purchases I'm not telling my girlfriend about also. Honestly I have no idea. I never really paid attention to the mileage much, as it was mostly an in-town bike for me. That being said, if the mileage changed, it wasnt enough for me to notice either way. Dubs posted:That kit is sold out constantly, and they dont restock very much. Check ebay. Like I hinted at in my above post, the key is to search for bikes that came with FCRMX's in stock form. I know there was a thread somewhere on Thumpertalk that listed all the bikes that came with an FCR from the factory. The eBay auction I won was for a 2001 YZ426 carb, FCRMX wasnt mentioned anywhere in the auction. Yet I scored the same carb you can buy from ThumperTalk for $500 for just $120. There isnt any other way to go in my mind.
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Feb 4, 2009 04:05
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I just had my moped carb swap go badly :-/ Oh well, PHBG19 on it's way.
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Feb 4, 2009 06:24
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Reposting my question on carb related shenanigans, since apparently nobody's reading the carb repair thread anymore. quote:1)On one side I can't get at the slide, as two of the screws stripped in the process (looks like a previous cleaning attempt had pretty much managed to kill them anyhow). Should I be okay just mucking around on the float bowl side of things? I managed to get the other slide off no problem, and it didn't have any varnish buildup on it.
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Feb 4, 2009 08:36
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There's a pass-thru between the two carbs that is a fuel line, and the two tee off into one fuel line that looks like it should be an overflow. Except.... This line isn't long enough to direct the petrol away from anything that wouldn't cause a major conflagration. Oh, did I mention that it was plugged with a drywall insert and machine screw? 
Should I just replumb this so that it dumps onto the road, or?
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Phat_Albert posted:Like I hinted at in my above post, the key is to search for bikes that came with FCRMX's in stock form. I know there was a thread somewhere on Thumpertalk that listed all the bikes that came with an FCR from the factory. Also, check the for classified section of Thumpertalk and Supermotojunkie, and other similar sites. I see used ones all the time in the ~$300 range.
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Feb 4, 2009 16:44
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So, I've got an oil leak on my new pan, coming from the right side where an oil hose from the cooler connects. A rubber O-ring goes around the hose's nozzle, while an alen bolt and a washer secure it off to the side. The leak is coming from the connection, pretty steady. The O-ring that was on there is torn in the center a little bit, which I'm assuming is the problem -- but I replaced that O-ring with one from NAPA that matched the size but not the thickness. Is it likely the replacement being thinner than the OEM o-ring is making it leak still? It leaks with the engine off.
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Feb 4, 2009 18:16
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Most likely, yes. Simkin, 1. Yeah, you should be ok just leaving the slide alone. It'd be good to check, but if you're going to, I'd have some replacement screws on hand. Only issue would really be if it was torn, and if it is you'll be able to tell by looking at the slides and opening the throttle when the bike is running. If the slide doesn't lift, your diaphram is ripped. 2. I'd replace it, if you can find them. Shouldn't be more than 5 bucks or so. They all snap loose loudly though. 3. No idea there. 4. Set them all to factory stock for now.
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Feb 4, 2009 18:38
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Simkin posted:Reposting my question on carb related shenanigans, since apparently nobody's reading the carb repair thread anymore. CV carb thread wasn't a fix-it thread ;-) Maybe we do need a carb help thread. #1 I've used locking pliers to break lose screws on the top of the carb. replace any mangled screws. Like Z3n said. #2 Hey, that usually works ok. You did it right. I'd buy a new jet. They're $3-9 each. No real big deal. I have a box FULL of jets. :-/ I should post pictures of that thing. I'm actually kinda proud of the collection. #3 I need pictures. I'll be able to identify what they were trying to do. #4 welcome to the wonders of OEM setups. Word is they actually put some effort into setting those at the factory.. but I don't believe it. The pilot screws on my bikes were typically in a full turn range. (That is, on one set of carbs, they were anywhere from 1 to 2 turns, or from 2.25 to 3.25) I'd go for 1.5. Being a little lean on the pilots isn't a huge deal. It makes idle less stable, but it also means the motor won't blubber when it's hot.
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Feb 4, 2009 19:38
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Nerobro"&"Z2n posted:Thanks guys. I guess I should have realized that the carb thread wasn't a diagnose/repair thread as well as just a general info one. The slide on the side that I can't get off does slide up and down without any problem, and judging by the one that I did manage to take off, it should be in really quite good condition. I'll see if anyone in town has a pilot jet to fit my needs, and reset the pilot screws so that they're at the same number of turns. Also, I'll see if I can't get some photos to clarify exactly what the weird hose setup issue is. This teardown also gives me the chance to bin the goddamn inline filter that some asshat decided was necessary, replacing the whole mess with just a straight 5/16" line from the tank to the carbs, and replacing the old, lovely vacuum lines with something a little newer and more supple.
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Feb 4, 2009 20:04
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I may be buying a 1983 Suzuki GS550E very, very soon. I jsut saw the ad on CL and responded. There are no pics, but the listing is in my city and the guy says the bike runs, but it the battery won't hold a charge and it might need new clutch plates. Anything I should know when going to look at it? If I can push start it, I'll take it around the block (in 13*F weather) and run it through the gears, check the lights, horn, etc.. This would be my second bike, and it'd allow me to keep my Harley parked while I finish restoring it. Also, $350. 
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Feb 4, 2009 20:54
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Ola posted:It's very unlikely that it's slipping like that, but it could be oscillating up and down and striking the swingarm or some of the sprung parts as the rear suspension compresses. Check your chain tension and adjust it. Yeah, thanks. I had a bit too much slack in it, but the noise was becoming very very regular, I almost couldn't accelerate without it rat-tat-tat-ing. I meant to fix it this morning, but I was yanked out of bed by a phone call to get to work as quick as my bike would carry me. Anyway, with it lubed and adjusted there's now no noise. It really did sound like it was slipping off, no matter how unlikely that scenario was. In other news, we've fixed almost every problem with my 125, apart from the rear drum brake sticking on, and the exhaust having a myriad of holes in it. Did manage to drain the battery trying to start just after we finished bolting everything back on, so the sideplates came back off again to access to the battery. That's a new headlight bulb, new sparkplug, headlight realigned, shifter rebent into it's correct shape, forks lined up and throttle less sticky. Nothing difficult, but there's a large sense of satisfaction in getting that lot done.
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Feb 4, 2009 20:56
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Simkin posted:
Z3n's been knocked down a peg. angryhampster posted:I may be buying a 1983 Suzuki GS550E very, very soon. I jsut saw the ad on CL and responded. There are no pics, but the listing is in my city and the guy says the bike runs, but it the battery won't hold a charge and it might need new clutch plates. Nothing more than the usual check bike over routine. You're going to  You're most likely going to want to do some suspension upgrades. Luckily for you, Nero's also done 32987532875 of them for the early GSes.
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Feb 4, 2009 21:23
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Phat_Albert posted:Honestly I have no idea. I never really paid attention to the mileage much, as it was mostly an in-town bike for me. That being said, if the mileage changed, it wasnt enough for me to notice either way. This is the correct carb right? http://is.gd/ioNl Looks like it, just want a second opinion considering it says it has the TPS which the DRZ directions mention isn't on the kit.
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Feb 4, 2009 21:38
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angryhampster posted:I may be buying a 1983 Suzuki GS550E very, very soon. And you may never go back to the harley. I paid $300 for my 1983 GS550ES. Skreemer paid $700 something for his 550E As KDC67 said, likely the r/r is toast. Suzuki put a heat disapating device under the seat, between the side covers, behind the battery and in front of the rear fender. ... see a problem there? They also used one that is a touch to small. I tend to replace them with late model GSXR r/r's. Used R/R's are $20-40. Don't try to run the bike much. Charge the battery, get the thing started, and test the stator. You should get something between 90-100 volts per leg at 5000rpm. If that's the case, your stator is happy, and it's just a r/r problem. If not... it's time to buy some copper and spend an evening rewinding your stator. Or buy a new one. (they run about $100) You will want to replace the carb boot o-rings. The ones that are on there are without a doubt 26 years old, and do need replacement. They cost $1.50 each, and you need four. The forks are air forks, and they do need air in them to feel anything near ok. It's not a lot of pressure, just 6-12psi, but it helps. A lot. There's a remote preload adjuster for the rear shock. If it hasn't bled down, crank it up all the way. I've never found a time when having it at less than full on made the bike feel better. I'm roughly 200lbs. Suspension stuff... the rear shock can be swapped with any fairly recent GSXR shock. The fork can use progressive springs, or at least take the time to put in spacers to get the ride height right. Trying to get more power out of the bike is a difficult, losing battle at best. Skreemer and I have managed some success, but I wouldn't recommend that path to anyone. If you want a small boost to top end, richen the main jets a little. Running slightly richer jetting up top got my bike up to 122mph.. Yes the stock jets are not the same across the motor. There's 92.5's on the outside, and 102.5's on the inside. IIRC. That's to compensate for the center cylinders not getting quite as much cooling air as the outside. If it runs, and especially has a title. $350 is a good price.
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Feb 4, 2009 21:38
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Phatty, What's the difference between the 39 and the 41 (2, hurrr). Is there a reason to go with one over the other?
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Feb 4, 2009 22:04
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pr0zac posted:This is the correct carb right? http://is.gd/ioNl Looks like it, just want a second opinion considering it says it has the TPS which the DRZ directions mention isn't on the kit. Thats it if memory serves. Doesnt matter if you run the TPS or not. The DRZ runs fine with or without it. Bear in mind you'll have to rejet that carb probably, since I cant imagine the Polaris and DRZ take the same jetting, but thats not a big deal.
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Feb 4, 2009 22:23
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cmorrow001 posted:Phatty, Just different size bores. I dont know that there was a real difference on the DRZ. A stock DRZ head wont flow enough that the 39 becomes the limiting factor, let alone the 41.
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Feb 4, 2009 22:36
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kdc67 posted:
I feel like an idiot, but what the hell is an R/R? It's obviously part of the electrical system, but I'm not familiar with that abbreviation. Luckily the electronics on my Harley were all mint. The rest of it was so-so at best.
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Feb 4, 2009 23:25
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angryhampster posted:I feel like an idiot, but what the hell is an R/R? Regulator/rectifier. It takes 70 volt AC from the stator and turns it into sweet sensible 12 volt DC. It's very easy to swap, but when it fails it tends to take the stator with it. It did on mine and I had to replace both. I'd take wonky electrics over poor mechanics any day, it's pretty easy work.
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Feb 4, 2009 23:37
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