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Ha Yes, regulator rectifier. Sorry for the abbreviation. Currently what's in the bike is this. (Don't buy that.) You'd be looking at getting one that looks more like this. It's a known issue with the older Suzukis so there's not much point in buying a new OEM part and waiting for it to fail. It'll take a bit of soldering for the swap, but nothing really hard. I really hope for your sake that the bike looks fantastic otherwise. This is the type of bike that'll love you and last forever. It's funny what people will practically give away because it needs just a tiny bit of work.
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Feb 5, 2009 01:46
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Ahh it's a voltage regulator. Thanks for the advice. I'm still waiting on a response from the owner.
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Feb 5, 2009 01:47
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Anyone have suggestions on a good way to remove old exhaust gaskets from the manifold on the head? These were what held up my re-mounting of the exhaust, I had no idea thwy were even there, squished flat against the head and practically welded in place. I didn't want to scratch anything so I just put the headers back on without getting those out for new ones.
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Feb 6, 2009 06:10
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Put an edge on a putty knife and scrape it off. Be careful. If you keep the knife flush aganst the head you won't gouge it. Minor surface scratches aren't a problem. It has to be smooth, not shiny. Once you get a chunk of it loose the rest should come pretty easily as you can now get under it.
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Feb 6, 2009 06:20
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er, nevermind, misread. Thanks 
Datsun Honeybee fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Feb 6, 2009 |
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Feb 6, 2009 06:36
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Datsun Honeybee posted:Anyone have suggestions on a good way to remove old exhaust gaskets from the manifold on the head? The exhaust gaskets are probably paper/copper crush gaskets - one time use only, or so I'm led to believe. I found the easiest way to actually remove them involved a flathead screwdriver. Once you got under one side, the whole mess would pry out from its little hidey hole. Since they're sunk into holes, and are expected to see expansion anyhow, any little scratches from a screwdriver shouldn't be a problem at all.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:21
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Got the head back for my GS500, 2 exhaust valves, 4 stem seals and 2 shims later, my wallet a little lighter but can't really be helped I guess. New base gasket, new head gasket and o-rings, new CCT and gasket, smacked it all together and it fired up the first crank. loving tough little bastard. Only problem was one of the head bolts was leaking a little bit of oil so I put a little bit of extra torque on it and it seems to have stopped at a slight oil weep but honestly I do not care, went for a spin round the block and the bike feels great. Just happy to have it up and running really. I will give it a longer test drive but I am exhausted from working in my garage in 110 degree heat and tomorrow will be another stinker.
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Feb 7, 2009 10:06
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My motorcycle runs pretty well, except it likes to die at stop lights when I have the clutch in if I don't keep the throttle open just a bit. What could this be? Not enough fuel getting to the engine? Should I try to adjust the idle speed, or maybe clean the carbs?
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Feb 7, 2009 21:23
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IAMKOREA posted:My motorcycle runs pretty well, except it likes to die at stop lights when I have the clutch in if I don't keep the throttle open just a bit. What could this be? Not enough fuel getting to the engine? Should I try to adjust the idle speed, or maybe clean the carbs? Idle maybe too low. Does it idle fine when warming up?
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Feb 7, 2009 21:26
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On my sister's SV 650-S 2005, it idles lower than normal. Inconsistently it will start idling too low and turn off. When riding around, at a constant speed and throttle being held in one position, the bike will randomly lurch forward once, as if I just gave it more throttle, then maybe later it will die down randomly as if I dropped the throttle a bit. Last night I rode it in the rain, and this morning it's having all these problems.
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Feb 7, 2009 21:30
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Jack the Smack posted:On my sister's SV 650-S 2005, it idles lower than normal. Inconsistently it will start idling too low and turn off. When riding around, at a constant speed and throttle being held in one position, the bike will randomly lurch forward once, as if I just gave it more throttle, then maybe later it will die down randomly as if I dropped the throttle a bit. Last night I rode it in the rain, and this morning it's having all these problems. front plug is wet, theres info on how to fix it in the sv650 thread
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Feb 7, 2009 21:37
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Yup, water in the spark plug boot on the front cylinder. Common SV problem.
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Feb 7, 2009 22:19
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Thanks, just stuck a paper clip in there and water came gushing out. Now it runs perfectly.
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Feb 7, 2009 22:20
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Jack the Smack posted:Idle maybe too low. Does it idle fine when warming up? It does. When I first start it it's fine, stays just shy of 1500 rpm. For the first few minutes I ride it's fine at stops, but after a little while when I'm at a stop the revs just start to go down and down until it dies unless I give the throttle a little blip. e: From my symptoms does it sound like it just needs the idle adjusted? vvvvv IAMKOREA fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Feb 8, 2009 |
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Feb 7, 2009 23:38
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IAMKOREA posted:Do I adjust the idle speed with the carbs on or off? I have a v-twin so I should have to adjust the idle screw for both carbs, right? Depends on the bike, but most only have one idle control knob. You'll start the bike, get it warmed up, and then set the idle to where you want it by turning the knob one way or the other.
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Feb 7, 2009 23:46
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Anyone know what engine oil and gear oil to use for a polaris scrambler 500?
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Feb 8, 2009 01:41
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Z3n posted:Depends on the bike, but most only have one idle control knob. You'll start the bike, get it warmed up, and then set the idle to where you want it by turning the knob one way or the other. Well I hosed with the knob and it doesn't really matter. It idles at whatever speed it's set to, and if the engine is warm, just sputters out and dies if it's idling. I am guessing the low speed circuits in the carbs might be clogged up? I don't see any reason why it should matter whether the engine is warm or not. I really don't feel like cleaning the carbs right now either, is there any chance seafoam would fix it? (yeah I know seafoam isn't a mechanic in a can)
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Feb 8, 2009 03:04
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So after reassembly my bike seems to have a little bit of an oil leak from a head bolt, the bike as mentioned before incase you have not read is a GS500. When I put the engine back together with all new gaskets and orings, oil leaked out of this nut and when I put 5 more nm of torque on it the leak has all but slowed to a weep. I don't really like the idea of any oil leaking out of my engine especially on an air cooled one like this. I was thinking of releasing the nut and putting some silicon gasket on the washer and nut faces to help it seal but I am not sure on the effect that it will have on the head and base gaskets because this is a head bolt. Any suggestions? The bolt in question is the one to the left of the spark plug. 
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Feb 8, 2009 04:00
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DiZ posted:New base gasket, new head gasket and o-rings, new CCT and gasket, smacked it all together and it fired up the first crank. loving tough little bastard. Ain't that the truth. The leaky nut should have a copper crush washer under it. If it does, and it still leaks, get a new copper washer. While you're at it, retorque all the head nuts. IAMKOREA posted:My motorcycle runs pretty well, except it likes to die at stop lights when I have the clutch in if I don't keep the throttle open just a bit. What could this be? Not enough fuel getting to the engine? Should I try to adjust the idle speed, or maybe clean the carbs? Well, you're not giving us a lot of detail here. What kind of bike? What rpm is it idling at normaly? is the idle stable? most likey your pilots are a little clogged and you're getting a lean die at idle. No big deal. Warm or not does matter. When the engine is warmer, it will run better with leaner mixtures. If the problem is more apparent when the motor is cool, it's definitely a mixture issue.
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Feb 8, 2009 06:18
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Nerobro posted:Well, you're not giving us a lot of detail here. What kind of bike? What rpm is it idling at normaly? is the idle stable? most likey your pilots are a little clogged and you're getting a lean die at idle. No big deal. It's a 1988 Honda VTR 250. After I've been riding a minute or two and turned the choke off it idles fine at 1500 rpm. Only after about 10 or 15 minutes, once the engine is fully warm, does it start to die while idling. It sits at 1500 for a second, then the needle starts to dip down unless I open the throttle a little bit. The bike is new to me and the last owner let it sit for a few months without riding because of a shoulder injury so I suspect the carbs are just gummed up, but I posted because I think it's strange that it only starts to happen after the engine has been running a while. I would expect the opposite to happen. edit: I think I'm just going to seafoam it tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll actually clean the carbs. IAMKOREA fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Feb 8, 2009 |
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Feb 8, 2009 06:35
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Nerobro posted:Ain't that the truth. The leaky nut should have a copper crush washer under it. If it does, and it still leaks, get a new copper washer. While you're at it, retorque all the head nuts. Yeah I have the part number for those washers here, I as going to order some and the dude at the shop told me I would not need to, however the washer looks like it has seen better days, the bolts are all retorqued so if the leak persists I will replace the washer.
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Feb 8, 2009 06:49
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Is the front axle shaft on my zx600 threaded or just slipped into place? Curious if after I remove the nut on one side and the pinch bolts on the other if I unthread the rod or smack it out with a hammer.
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Feb 8, 2009 08:30
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dietcokefiend posted:Is the front axle shaft on my zx600 threaded or just slipped into place? Curious if after I remove the nut on one side and the pinch bolts on the other if I unthread the rod or smack it out with a hammer. They're threaded.
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Feb 8, 2009 09:13
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DiZ posted:Yeah I have the part number for those washers here, I as going to order some and the dude at the shop told me I would not need to, however the washer looks like it has seen better days, the bolts are all retorqued so if the leak persists I will replace the washer. You can sometimes anneal copper washers in a pinch. Might want to try that. Take the washer out and hit it with a torch until its glowing red. Then let it cool naturally (i.e. dont dip it in water or something). Put it back in and retorque everything and see how it does.
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Feb 8, 2009 18:39
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How long do bearings last in the front and rear wheels on the average sportbike? My 88 is going to push 10k, and since this is the first full riding season I want to make sure it is in tip top shape. Wheels will be off for the tire replacement, so the bearings could be done at the same time if needed. Also anyone know what the spark gap should be on the zx600c?
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Feb 8, 2009 23:16
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Tech/maintenance question: The front end of my Honda Rebel (09, I just got the thing 3 weeks ago) is sparking horribly. I can only see it when its dark, little yellow flecks flying from the front of the bike, but even in the daytime I can feel little flecks of something hitting me in the arms/neck/face/etc. My initial diagnoses is the disk brake, as I've seen a few mountain bicycles do something similar, but I know significantly less about motorcycles than I do about bicycles. I would love any suggestions or diagnostic help. Is there something I should be doing that I'm not? As an aside, It does this under acceleration and while cruising as well. Not just when I hit the brakes.
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Feb 8, 2009 23:21
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unSavory posted:Tech/maintenance question: Is it brand new? If you really rode the crap out of it, I guess it could be the wear indicators on your brake pads, but unless you've put a great deal of miles on it or you ride the brakes or something, I don't know how you managed to pull that off.
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Feb 9, 2009 00:10
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dietcokefiend posted:How long do bearings last in the front and rear wheels on the average sportbike? My 88 is going to push 10k, and since this is the first full riding season I want to make sure it is in tip top shape. Wheels will be off for the tire replacement, so the bearings could be done at the same time if needed. Anywhere from 0-100,000 miles. Replace bearings when they're failed, or failing. You will know, they make noises, and the bike gets hard to push. There's no need to regap spark plugs. spend the $8, replace the set. Or just let them run. NGK packages plugs in such a way that the gap can't be hurt while shipping, and they gap them much better than you (or I) can. unSavory posted:Tech/maintenance question: Stuff from the front brake wouldn't be getting up to your face, arms and neck. I'd have a friend drive beside you and see if you're not "seeing things." While riding, you will get struck with all kinds of foreign matter. Rocks, bugs, grit, spray, parts, toyota sedonas, etc... Some of it may seem to spark, or sparkle. If there were something on the front end of your bike, absorbing enough energy in a small enough space to make sparks, I don't think your wheezy little 250 would be able to keep moving.
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Feb 9, 2009 00:17
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Z3n posted:They're threaded.   I spent like 5 minutes spinning the thing wondering why it wouldnt come out. It is actually just slightly pressed in there and can be pulled out with finger pressure. To remind myself not to ride the bike while the thing is apart and still slightly together I have the key ziptied to the handlebar. Dont need any late night accidents 
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Feb 9, 2009 00:19
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dietcokefiend posted:
Heh. Sorry about that. Most of them are threaded in some way or another.
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Feb 9, 2009 00:37
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Just went for a ride around the subdivision to observe (since it's dark now) and I'm definitely not seeing things. Leaning into a turn you can see pretty clearly the sparks flying from the rear left side of the front wheel upward. Scary. I'll take it to the shop tomorrow and see what's up. Thanks
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Feb 9, 2009 01:25
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So I have my front wheel off now, balancing the rear of the bike back on the center stand with 3 bags of sand on the back of the bike. I kinda of have a jack under the bike that is shimmed with a toolkit, and then the shock tubes shimmed with a ps3 box and some foam insulation. Will my bike fall over and burst into flames? Doing this one wheel at a time to take to the shop and have the tires removed. Also checked the front bearings by slipping my finger through the end and spinning around. I wouldn't say it feels notchy, but it isnt the smoothest bearing I have ever felt before. Should I be concerned or just let them be until they get noisy? Also do I remove the brake rotors before I go to the shop to have the tire mounted, or can they work around those?
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Feb 9, 2009 02:00
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Got to ask a total noob question: The old grips on my 2001 Honda Nighthawk were really hard ribbed rubber with a bunch of foam electric-taped to them. The foam was falling apart, so I got some Renthal grips, of a size that the clerk at the huge Austin biek shop indicated was right for my bars. I could jimmy off the old grips with butterknife/WD-40, so I just cut off the throttle grip with a knife, and started sliding on the new Renthal Enduro grip. It was tough as gently caress to get the thing on, and after a solid 20 minutes, including using vice grips and pliers, it's only halfway on. Literally, my arm was sore the next morning. It's like trying to fit an Extra-Snug condom onto a pornstar-sized wang. Should I just admit that the grip is the wrong size, or is it supposed to be hard as gently caress to slide new grips on? I'm using copious WD40 to try and slide it down, and can't even imagine using grip-glue to hold it on since there's no way this bitch is sliding anywhere on its own. I compared the cut-off old grip to the other new grip, and the diameter is at least .25" smaller on the new one. Is the new one supposed to be a lot stretchier and squeeze on, or, again, did I just get sold the wrong size? This is loving annoying, but I had to make sure there's not some dead-simple noob trick like "soak it in vinegar overnight, it'll slide on and magically shrink to fit perfectly... you dumb n00b squid." TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Feb 9, 2009 |
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Feb 9, 2009 02:34
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Got to ask a total noob question: The old grips on my 2001 Honda Nighthawk were really hard ribbed rubber with a bunch of foam electric-taped to them. The foam was falling apart, so I got some Renthal grips, of a size that the clerk at the huge Austin biek shop indicated was right for my bars. You may have got the wrong size. Or, you could be installing the clutch side on the throttle side. With that said, it's way easier when you have some lube. Glue makes good lube and as a bonus they don't come off afterwards Either way, you're doing something wrong because those are way too hard to get on. Most grips slide right on with some glue acting as lube.
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Feb 9, 2009 03:21
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I don't mean to sound like an rear end, buy you aren't trying to put the clutch side on the throttle are you? EDIT: ^^^^ Listen to him. Hit it with a hairdryer, then lube it with grip glue and it should go on with only a little trouble. Dubs fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Feb 9, 2009 |
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Feb 9, 2009 03:31
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It does sound like you are installing the clutch side on the throttle. ^^^ Well I'm slow! Unless the clerk sold you ATV grips, which would have both sides the same nominal 7/8" size, as most ATV's use a thumb throttle. If so, you aren't ever going to jimmy either grip over the throttle sleeve which is larger than the handlebar on the other side. I liker using hair spray as a lube. Some folks use water but it takes forever before the grip really grips the bar. If you haven't already taken the grip off, do so and compare. Bigger one goes over the throttle. If they are the same, they are incorrect for your application.
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Feb 9, 2009 03:33
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Gnomad posted:I liker using hair spray as a lube. Some folks use water but it takes forever before the grip really grips the bar. Water and soap works great. Dries right out after you're done.
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Feb 9, 2009 08:27
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I was hoping to get a focused explanation on bike safety and avoiding accidents. I've been reading through the stats on the IIHS website. It seems alot of accidents happen due to sheer irresponsibility of the rider. Supposing I took basic and advanced training classes, wore armor and a helmet, and drove responsibly, what are my odds for coming out of a wreck? On some other notes, how does weather effect performance. I live in Eugene so rain is an issue. Are there other hazards? The bike I'd be looking at is a lower bore Honda or Suzuki around 500-650. The trend I seem to see is that many deaths involve either drinking, not wearing a helmet, or single vehicle crashes. (hope I'm not reading what I want to see from the data) Is this trend fairly true? Thanks for all your help in advance.
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Feb 9, 2009 10:57
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Last_Ranger posted:Supposing I took basic and advanced training classes, wore armor and a helmet, and drove responsibly, what are my odds for coming out of a wreck? Eleventyfiftyhundred to one! It's hard to say, but taking the classes and wearing the gear is mandatory. Otherwise you do what you can to prevent the most common ones. Most multi vehicle accidents are caused by the car not seeing the bike (or misjudging its speed and distance), most single vehicle are running wide in corners and overbraking - too much speed is one cause for this, made worse by target fixation and poor control inputs. For cars violating right of way, you need to be way more alert than in a car. Move your eyes around all the time. Typical dangers are: - Cars waiting to cross your path at an intersection, they might see you, wait for you, then change their mind as to how far away you are. Be ready to brake and SWERVE. Be visible. Practice hard braking a lot. Don't mash the handlebars, be progressive. - Cars about to miss their turn, braking hard without signaling. Don't tailgate. - Cars merging into you. Don't stay in their blindspot, in fact don't linger abreast a car at all if you can avoid it. - Cars ramming your rear end at a red light. Again, be visible, place yourself on the edge of the lane, watch your mirror. For single vehicle accidents, this is just about as typical as it gets: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whVXD3ex9DA - Weather is perfect. - Road surface excellent. - He decides to pass on a blind right hand corner. Deal's Gap might be all corners, but the next left hander has much better visibility. - Too much speed into the corner, 30-40 mph. Not too much speed for the bike, nor the tires, but more than the rider is used to when being surprised by a corner. Average impact speed in accidents is 25-35 mph. - He overbrakes, locking up the rear wheel. - He runs wide, eyes staring at the terrain instead of the road, failing to push the right handlebar and steer the bike. - Any injuries are made worse by the fact he's wearing practically no gear. - And, literally as insult to injury, the camper van family thinks they will get beat up due to the outlaw image Harley riders insist on.  These are all slap-your-forehead, middle-of-the-statistics rider error causes. The one thing that could have prevented it is simply fixing his eyes on the road and steering the bike. I ride in the rain quite a bit and it's not bad. You don't lose too much grip and motorcycle tires are less prone to aquaplaning than wide car tires. One thing to be cautious of is the first rain after a dry period. Dust, coolant, oil and other gunk mixed with the first water can be very slippery but it dissipates in a short while. The bike will cope with it just fine, but you could check that there aren't any exposed electrical connections and gaps in the gauges. Take 15 minutes one time after riding in heavy rain to remove the seat and tank and see if water pools anywhere, make provisions for draining accordingly. Chances are the designers got it right and it doesn't!
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Feb 9, 2009 13:16
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Ola posted:Take 15 minutes one time after riding in heavy rain to remove the seat and tank and see if water pools anywhere, make provisions for draining accordingly. Chances are the designers got it right and it doesn't! Unless you ride an SV 
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Feb 9, 2009 15:43
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