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Nerobro posted:That bike doesn't have sidecovers. I happen to have a very pretty set of GS400 sidecovers. I don't intend on using them, as they're fairly fragile. However, I do have several yards of fiberglass cloth. And I'm not so shabby at taking molds. I'm in BC, Canada. Edit: I just noticed that when the bike is on it's side stand, fuel leaks out of the ON-RES-PRI valve. When standing upright it will stop leaking, but as soon as you turn the engine on it'll leak again. It probably has about two drips per second. Could this just be a bad o-ring in the valve? MrZig fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Feb 14, 2009 |
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Feb 14, 2009 02:23
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Do you have the fuel selector set to Prime? That could be part of the problem, as setting it to that will just let fuel drain merrily away. It's a pretty trivial matter to replace all of the fuel lines on a motorcycle, so that's probably the first step to take. It should cost you about $5 at Crappy Tire. Also, where in BC? You should post in the Goon Ride thread.
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Feb 14, 2009 10:15
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Simkin posted:Do you have the fuel selector set to Prime? That could be part of the problem, as setting it to that will just let fuel drain merrily away. It's a pretty trivial matter to replace all of the fuel lines on a motorcycle, so that's probably the first step to take. It should cost you about $5 at Crappy Tire. And sure I will. I'm in Enderby. North of Vernon & Kelowna.
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Feb 14, 2009 19:27
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I have an obsession with the repsol CBR 1000 limited edition. I'm on a 600 right now but am thinking about upgrading in about 4-5 months. With a total riding time of about 6-8 months. Bad idea? I don't know much about CBRs at all. If not that then it'll be an older super sport bike.
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Feb 14, 2009 19:49
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Christoff posted:I have an obsession with the repsol CBR 1000 limited edition. I'm on a 600 right now but am thinking about upgrading in about 4-5 months. With a total riding time of about 6-8 months. Bad idea? I don't know much about CBRs at all. If not that then it'll be an older super sport bike. Yes, a bad idea. A general rule of thumb should be get around 20k of riding on your 600 before you move to a literbike. You can move up earlier than that, for example, I moved from my 250 to my 600 after about 10k, but I severely hampered my learning curve as a rider as a result, and didn't realize it until much, much later.
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Feb 14, 2009 20:35
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MrZig posted:It leaks on any selection. It's probably an O-Ring in behind. Looks like if I pop two screws out, it all comes out so it should be fairly easy. It doesn't leak when the engine is off because you have a vacuum petcock. If it's leaking out the front it's just "an" O-ring. Any hardware store will do. On the bright side it means your vacuum system works. Christoff posted:I have an obsession with the repsol CBR 1000 limited edition. I'm on a 600 right now but am thinking about upgrading in about 4-5 months. With a total riding time of about 6-8 months. Bad idea? I don't know much about CBRs at all. If not that then it'll be an older super sport bike. Depends. How much do you enjoy your arms? 
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Feb 14, 2009 21:29
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Christoff posted:I have an obsession with the repsol CBR 1000 limited edition. I'm on a 600 right now but am thinking about upgrading in about 4-5 months. With a total riding time of about 6-8 months. Bad idea? I don't know much about CBRs at all. If not that then it'll be an older super sport bike. I'll toss my hat into the 'that's a pretty terrible idea' camp. Why don't you do some track days before stepping up to something that you'll be using even less of its potential?
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Feb 14, 2009 23:24
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Fair enough. I ride quite frequently and road before this one but I'll give it a long while. Thanks. Aside from that is that a good bike choice? 
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Feb 14, 2009 23:28
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Christoff posted:Aside from that is that a good bike choice? Man up and slap a Repsol paintjob on an RC-51. .JPG) .JPG) 
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Feb 15, 2009 05:01
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How much of a jump is a 600 to a 750? I'm talking along the lines of a mid 90s GSXR. I don't plan on buying one tomorrow. But just wondering. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/1033436400.html An 1100 is a fairly safe jump, no? http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/1033032690.html
Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Feb 15, 2009 |
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Feb 15, 2009 07:26
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You're already on something that's outside the parameters of a person with your experience. Why are you trying to push it? Your bike. Stating 98 hp. It looks like that 750 is a '93, which has 118 hp. Sure get the 1100. As long as you have a good life insurance policy and make me the beneficiary. I need to update the OP so people can actually do a bit of research before they ask questions. kdc67 fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Feb 15, 2009 |
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Feb 15, 2009 08:29
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Christoff posted:Here's one you might like, but it does have a smaller engine   Seriously though, stop thinking about bigger bikes for at least another year or two. Get some time actually putting the bike through its paces, especially on a closed circuit. You'll have way more fun than you possibly would just tooling around on a bigger displacement bike.
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Feb 15, 2009 08:54
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kdc67 posted:You're already on something that's outside the parameters of a person with your experience. Why are you trying to push it? Your bike. Stating 98 hp. It looks like that 750 is a '93, which has 118 hp. The 1100 was a joke. The 600 is my second bike. But I was just asking about the 750s. I won't be upgrading anytime soon. And I'm not sure what the difference is but mine is a zx-6e not the zzr, I think Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Feb 15, 2009 |
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Feb 15, 2009 09:06
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Sorry, I think the overabundance of shitposts/troll threads in AI has broken my humour detector.  I jumped from a 500cc to a 750cc, and the difference was pretty big, but not absurdly so. Then again, I was going from an air cooled twin GS500 to an air cooled I4 ZR-7S, sooo....
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Feb 15, 2009 09:41
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Christoff posted:The 1100 was a joke. The 600 is my second bike. But I was just asking about the 750s. I won't be upgrading anytime soon. As was my reply.  I'm just a wee bit tired. "Second bike" doesn't mean much, though. I had 3 before I took my MSF or gone on the road for more than a minute or 2. You said you've had 6 - 8 months of riding so that's still fairly new.So it is. I'm getting mixed messages on whether there's much difference, but it still at least has 85hp.
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Feb 15, 2009 09:52
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kdc67 posted:As was my reply. On the 600! Add 1-2 for the other, heh. But I know a 600 is going to be fast as hell and a 1000 is going to be fast as hell. Obviously the 750 and 1000 will probably weigh a bit more. Just wondering what the power difference/feel was like at a 750 compared to a 600 or 1000. And as far as the rg500. I know displacement doesn't speak as loud as HP. Not to mention weight of the bike. Would a RG500 be faster than some 600s and such? Or how does that work?
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Feb 15, 2009 16:40
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a very slightly breathed on RG500 will put 100hp down at the wheel. The bike is also frighteningly light. That would make it as fast as a modern 600cc bike, except that instead of having a torque curve, it's got a torque spike. The only thing slowing down a RG500 is it's supsension parts are the beter part of three decades old now. Suspension tech has come a long way. On a smooth track. A RG500 would give even modern 600's a run for their money.
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Feb 15, 2009 18:24
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Nerobro posted:On a smooth track. A RG500 would give even modern 600's a run for their money. I'd love to have a try at a modernised (suspension and brake-wise) RG500 on a track. I'm pretty sure I would either scare myself witless, or die laughing. Possibly both.
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Feb 15, 2009 18:35
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Simkin posted:I'd love to have a try at a modernised (suspension and brake-wise) RG500 on a track. I'm pretty sure I would either scare myself witless, or die laughing. Possibly both. It would be death. Good god, that loving power spike would just...kill. Christoff's ZX-6E will put down around 88hp at the rear wheel. It's plenty quick. A new 600 will have about 15% more HP, have more sensative handling, etc. A liter bike will make 2.1 times the power of the E while still being much lighter. A 750 actually feels a lot like a 600, but is more forgiving about being out of the upper rev range. A literbike is just a beast, no need to rev for power (why people love them on teh street). They're monster, monster fast. 100+mph in first gear monster fast, and they're geared that high so noobs don't kill themselves on launch.
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Feb 16, 2009 01:09
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http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/1037162845.html That seems like a very very good deal. If I had the cash and about 15k more miles under my belt I would be very tempted to pull the trigger and buy it. Something about Ducati's and triumphs always tickles my fancy. On the talk of killing yourself upgrading up to a new bike, I have a quick question. I plan on riding my ex500 into the ground, or until next January, whichever comes first. Would the jump from a Ninja 500 to a Triumph 675 be too much? I've never been able to test ride the 675 so I really have no idea how much faster it is then a regular 600ss, if faster at all. If all goes according to plan (my bike doesn't break) I should have about 7k-10k miles in the saddle of my 500 at that point.
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Feb 17, 2009 02:42
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The 675 is frighteningly light. And it's tuned for midrange power. The sound it makes when the exhaust valves open... well it's noises that only a british machine can make. I had no trouble when I test rode one. The steering is wonderfully sharp. It never caught me off guard, or was surprising. The brakes felt very good, and I was able to control them easily. I'd heartily recommend one. That said, only YOU can say when you're really ready to move to a more powerful bike. There are some questions you should be asking yourself. Do you feel like you're getting everything you can out of your current bike? Have you felt the back end slide around under power? Were you in control of it? Are you prepared to crash $13k or bike? When was your last accidental wheelie? Were you in control of your last wheelie? How about your last stoppie?
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Feb 17, 2009 03:12
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Nerobro posted:Do you feel like you're getting everything you can out of your current bike? Nerobro posted:Have you felt the back end slide around under power? Were you in control of it? Nerobro posted:Are you prepared to crash $13k or bike? Nerobro posted:When was your last accidental wheelie? Nerobro posted:Were you in control of your last wheelie? How about your last stoppie?
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Feb 17, 2009 17:26
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As someone who only rode street, never dirt or anything else, I upgraded long before I was comfortable with any of those things. I learned to stoppie on the 929 (6th bike), I learned to wheelie on the (7th/8th bikes) Speed triple/XR500, and only in the last year am I really comfortable with sliding the rear on the track SV. As Nero says, it's really about you. If you're a responsible rider, then you can ride just about anything after you've established some basic skills on a motorcycle. Riding a more powerful bike will slow your progression as a rider, as you pretty much learn by pushing the limits and the limits are much more accessable at much more sane speeds on a less capable bike. However, most people don't want to go racing, so that's really not a concern, as you can be a perfectly safe rider who gets just as much enjoyment out of your bike without ever cranking the thing over so far that you're dragging hard parts, or ripping mile long wheelies or stoppies at 120mph. So...my advice is: Ride something managable until you feel really comfortable on it, like it's your bike with no suprises, and then, look at yourself, decide if you're responsible, and upgrade to whatever the hell you want. I don't own a big bike because I'm not responsible enough on the street. Poor impulse control. 
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Feb 17, 2009 18:06
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Trintintin posted:I can safely say that on the 500, I've only ever felt the rear end slide around under power in the rain and I got off the throttle before it became a problem. I actually want to toy around on a friends dirtbike this summer just to get used to that feeling, because it seemed borderline fun if in the right situation (not in traffic or on the streets). Wrongity wrong wrong wrong answer. You don't get off the throttle when the rear is sliding. You either keep it steady or give the bike a little more. By keeping the power to the wheel you're keeping the wheelspin and giving it the chance to recover gracefully. When you cut power to the wheel the tire will catch and it can throw you. Riding a friend's dirtbike is a very good idea. Mud's fun and it'll give you nearly all the experience you need with the rear end sliding within a day.
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Feb 17, 2009 20:28
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Z3n posted:So...my advice is: Ride something managable until you feel really comfortable on it, like it's your bike with no suprises, and then, look at yourself, decide if you're responsible, and upgrade to whatever the hell you want. I don't own a big bike because I'm not responsible enough on the street. Poor impulse control. That's exactly where I'm at, no surprises anymore. I remember the first 3 or 4 months of having my 500, I was amazed that people started on faster bikes, as I was blown away at how quick it was. Now its only a 500 to me. I think I've gotten a lot out of it for sure, and I ride love riding it like I stole it when allowed, I just want something with a little more of a kick in the pants when finances allow. I would probably have been scared out of motorcycle riding if I had started on anything bigger though, and I feel like I'm a much stronger rider than most with my experience because of it. Thanks everyone, time to start saving and scouting for deals on 675's. Edit: Also to the wrongity wrong, I was turning out onto a highway when it broke loose, and the by backing off I meant I didn't slam the throttle open to keep accelerating, I kept it where it was. I learned that whole getting out of the throttle/brake when the rear loses traction thing the hard way my first few days of riding when I locked the rear and got bucked slightly out of then back into the saddle, scaring myself straight. I know I still need some work on it though, hence the dirtbike Trintintin fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Feb 17, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 20:32
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Trintintin posted:I locked the rear and got bucked slightly out of then back into the saddle, scaring myself straight. I know I still need some work on it though, hence the dirtbike
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Feb 17, 2009 20:58
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after transferring $1500 from my east coast bank to my current bank and withdrawing it so I could drive three hours north and buy that Magna I posted I find out the owner sold it last night, great. Now I get to look for more motorcycles, wooooo.
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Feb 19, 2009 11:25
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There were a couple of good ones on ksl.com, just keep looking. The less in a rush you are, the more likely you are to wait until you find a really good deal.
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Feb 19, 2009 16:13
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Take notes, kids. This his how you sell a bike. http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/1041695502.html
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Feb 19, 2009 23:19
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Christoff posted:Take notes, kids. This his how you sell a bike. Oh god. I feel bad for the person who is inevitably going to buy this bike and hurt himself terribly.
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Feb 20, 2009 03:24
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kdc67 posted:Wrongity wrong wrong wrong answer. You don't get off the throttle when the rear is sliding. Only in certain instances. He said it was in the wet, I have had times where the back would start to step out and I would chop or move back on the throttle to get the back straightened (depending on the corner and circumstance of course). As long as it is not far out you can catch it without issue. I ride a lot in the rain, actually just as much in the rain as not per year now, and the bike sliding around is a fact of life. In the wet you cannot always keep on the throttle as the back end will keep on stepping out farther. If you can catch it before it gets bad stepping back on the throttle is the right thing to do.
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Feb 20, 2009 07:23
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Alright, so I finally moved out of NYC and I'm looking to get in the game. I've been craigslisting stuff and I've found two bikes that look really awesome: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/mcy/1041743812.html http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/mcy/1037045143.html Thoughts on either? This would be a first bike. I figure they're not going to be too powerful but my worry is maintenance--might be a lot of work/trouble if something breaks.
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Feb 20, 2009 15:20
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Iniquitous posted:Alright, so I finally moved out of NYC and I'm looking to get in the game. I've been craigslisting stuff and I've found two bikes that look really awesome: Buy the Bonneville. It will break down a lot but your bike will be so god drat cool you won't care that you spend as much time fixing it as riding it. You should also probably take up smoking and do it while riding to be extra awesome.
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Feb 20, 2009 17:38
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pr0zac posted:Buy the Bonneville. It will break down a lot but your bike will be so god drat cool you won't care that you spend as much time fixing it as riding it. You should also probably take up smoking and do it while riding to be extra awesome. I'd say buy the CB for exactly the reasons that pr0zac said you should buy the Triumph...gotta have something to work your way up to. Especially if you're concerned about maintenence. Triumphs love to be fiddled with every one in awhile, and if you're not willing to do that, probably best to stay away.
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Feb 20, 2009 17:50
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^^ DAMMIT ^^pr0zac posted:Buy the Bonneville. It will break down a lot but your bike will be so god drat cool you won't care that you spend as much time fixing it as riding it. You should also probably take up smoking and do it while riding to be extra awesome. Same could be said of the Honda, which looks very nice with the racing stripes. Bonnies have a cool factor, but the seat looks a bit less comfy. Either one would be lucky to see 50 horses, so they'd be good beginner bikes. I say go with the Honda and spend the additional $1000 on riding gear and such.
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Feb 20, 2009 17:57
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Z3n posted:I'd say buy the CB for exactly the reasons that pr0zac said you should buy the Triumph...gotta have something to work your way up to.
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Feb 20, 2009 18:01
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Iniquitous posted:Good points. My concern with maintenance isn't the time involved, it's more the fact that I haven't done it before and I'm not sure how difficult it would be to source parts for either of the bikes should something break. But given that the Honda was recently overhauled, I guess that answers the second of my maintenance-related concerns. Thanks for the pointers, guys. It's not going to be hidiously difficult to do either maintenence or find parts, but let me tell you, owning a triumph is something best done as a more experienced rider...the sort who laughs when your bike leans out and uses the choke to limp it home, and then you go about setting your float heights with a micrometer to avoid any such problems in the future only to learn that your float bowls no longer seal and you now have a puddle of gas on your floor. loving triumphs.
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Feb 20, 2009 18:08
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Not in a serious position to purchase, but this has been the bike I've dreamed of learning on for as long as I've wanted to ride. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/1036158822.html
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Feb 20, 2009 19:08
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Welp the Ninja 500 got sold out from under me, but I found this http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcy/1041042830.html I offered him $450, because the blue book value is only $400. I went and took a look at it today adn rode it, it runs great. The chain has some surface rust, so I'm not sure if that will need to be replaced. And it needs new brakes. Are getting new brakes for it going to be a pain? The front disc is not ventilated and I want one that is, are brakes often interchangeable? And I noticed when I slowly let the clutch out, that it does not smoothly come out. It sort of lightly sticks as I let it out, but I had no problem shifting.
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Feb 21, 2009 03:45
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Stoic Commie posted:The chain has some surface rust, so I'm not sure if that will need to be replaced. And it needs new brakes. Replace it anyway if you're unsure. It's likely you could soak it in kerosene and than relube it, but why risk it? A new chain is $80-100 which is cheaper than the taxi you take home when the chain breaks. quote:Are getting new brakes for it going to be a pain? The front disc is not ventilated and I want one that is, are brakes often interchangeable? Brakes *might* be interchangeable between similar models, but you're much better off just finding something with the same fork diameter with a dual disk setup and not worrying about ventilated disks. Look into sportier versions of the KZ and see if the wheels are compatable. Junkyard trips ahoy! The only thing to really be careful of when redoing the brakes is that brake fluid is incredibly corrosive, so you should protect yourself and all the bodywork when doing them. That's if there's anything really wrong with the brakes anyhow. If they just need pads, do that and don't worry so much; new pads and bleeding help immensely. quote:And I noticed when I slowly let the clutch out, that it does not smoothly come out. It sort of lightly sticks as I let it out, but I had no problem shifting. You *might* lubricate the lines, but again, clutch cables are $10 and easy to replace. I'd just replace anything that looked like it was iffy, but people get by with less. EDIT: Looks like Suzuki GS's of your vintage had dual disks that may work if you get the forks/wheel/calipers/master cylinder. At least, that's what I find here: http://www.kz400.com/Guestbikes.htm ... though a lot of the wheels replaced are cast wheels; you may have fewer options if you wish to remain with spokes. EDIT EDIT: Maybe 80's GPZ's...again, measure fork diameter or steal the triple tree as well, though that'll involve a bit more work. George RR Fartin fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Feb 21, 2009 |
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Feb 21, 2009 03:50
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