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What kind of parts are interchangeable between the different model years of the R1? My dad's daughter went crazy and pushed over his 1999 R1 and attacked it with a bat (She's only 14 so it wasn't too damaging, surprisingly.) The fairings are pretty ok, but I'd like to get him a new seat, tank, signals, and mirrors because I'm nice like that and he can't really afford to spend money like that right now. From what I've read they only had 98-99 before they remodeled it, but some parts have to be the same right?
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Feb 13, 2009 16:47
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| # ? May 16, 2024 00:46 |
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Ronayers.com has a parts finder that can tell you where else the part works. Get the part numbers for the stuff you need and feed them into the "where else does this fit" thing.
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Feb 13, 2009 20:05
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You'd probably have better luck sourcing parts via ebay, craigslist, and R1 forums. Otherwise count on spending upwards of a grand on parts, plus having to swap over any internal tank parts (fuel level sensors, potentially fuel pumps, etc). The tank will be the most expensive item, by far. OEM stuff is way expensive.
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Feb 13, 2009 20:33
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Yeah, I guess I should have specified, just use ronayers for their cross-reference thing, then head to eBay or whatever.
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Feb 13, 2009 20:47
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hey guys, I'm having a grand time on my bike (gs500) now that you socal chaps helped bring it back from the dead at the newyears meet. I was going to take it for a spin last night and noticed the clutch was feeling a little weird. I pulled back the rubber boot over the adjusting screw and my cable is really frayed (only a couple strands left, glad I caught it now rather than on the 405  )I did some searching on forums for my bike and it looks like swapping the clutch cable just involves buying a new assembly, taking that cover off down by the engine and running the new cable in the same way. Is that it? That seems way too easy so I don't really believe it. There's more to it... right? Also, I thought it would be fun for laughs to toss on some cheap clubman style bars onto it to see how it looks. Is there any downside to grabbing a cheapo 20 dollar set of clubman bars off ebay? (wont fit? will explode at high speeds, smash my hand against the tank at full lock? handles like poo poo?) Thanks in Advance  EDIT: Charun posted:Want durable and easy? Check this page out: This is awesome, I want to do this. Has anyone tried giving this a whirl? I've painted my tank with some rattlecan car paint but I'd love to go all over the plastics/tank/frame with this stuff. Is the process any different? The link shows off the results but it sort of just says "this owns do it." and th elast thing I need is bedliner chipping off after 100 miles or something  Minty Swagger fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Feb 13, 2009 |
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Feb 13, 2009 21:56
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Replacing the clutch cable is indeed, that easy. You should even be able to just replace the cable, not the assembly itself. Only potential issue with clubman bars is clearance. Besides that, bars are pretty much bars. You may have to drill some holes or retrofit your controls if they're not drilled for them, but that's pretty much it.
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Feb 13, 2009 22:52
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BotchedLobotomy posted:This is awesome, I want to do this. Has anyone tried giving this a whirl? I've painted my tank with some rattlecan car paint but I'd love to go all over the plastics/tank/frame with this stuff. Is the process any different? The link shows off the results but it sort of just says "this owns do it." and th elast thing I need is bedliner chipping off after 100 miles or something Bedliner poo poo on my bike would scare me just a little. It just absorbs the light, makes you a bit difficult to see on the road I would imagine.
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Feb 14, 2009 02:56
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shaitan posted:Bedliner poo poo on my bike would scare me just a little. It just absorbs the light, makes you a bit difficult to see on the road I would imagine. According to the Hurt study, color had no effect on accident incidence. As far as I can tell, the lights make much more difference. If they see you, they'll see you if the bike is black or white or lime green, if they don't they don't. It's not some stealth camo.
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Feb 14, 2009 03:19
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I did some searching on forums for my bike and it looks like swapping the clutch cable just involves buying a new assembly, taking that cover off down by the engine and running the new cable in the same way. Is that it? That seems way too easy so I don't really believe it. There's more to it... right? No, there's really no more to it. I can to it in half an hour, on the side of the road. In the rain. I'll let you guess how I know that number. The cable is like $15. And I'd agree with you in calling it an assembly. There's a lot of bits on a GS clutch cable. If you're really smart, you'll order two. As long as you have a spare, you're not likely to pop the one on the bike. Bedliner is ugly. :-) But yes, it's some really durable stuff.
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Feb 14, 2009 03:45
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Nerobro posted:No, there's really no more to it. I can to it in half an hour, on the side of the road. In the rain. I'll let you guess how I know that number. The cable is like $15. And I'd agree with you in calling it an assembly. There's a lot of bits on a GS clutch cable. If you're really smart, you'll order two. As long as you have a spare, you're not likely to pop the one on the bike. Better yet, zip tie the second one to the first one at the top and bottom. Should anything happen, you just have to swap the 2 cables there, no routing, nothing.
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Feb 14, 2009 03:47
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Z3n posted:Better yet, zip tie the second one to the first one at the top and bottom. Should anything happen, you just have to swap the 2 cables there, no routing, nothing. That's a dirtbikers trick. :-) It was mentioned in a book I read recently. Uh. Footfall I think was the name. Super Hunky recommends it too. I just think it's ugly, so I won't do it.
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Feb 14, 2009 03:51
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Nerobro posted:That's a dirtbikers trick. :-) It was mentioned in a book I read recently. Uh. Footfall I think was the name. Super Hunky recommends it too. I just think it's ugly, so I won't do it. You ride a GS, why bother trying to make anything pretty?  I'm gonna have spares everywhere on my street SV. Maybe I'll just have a little trailer pulled by the streetbike towing my trackbike so I can swap parts over as needed. Street race immeniant? Just swap the flatslides off of the trackbike! 
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Feb 14, 2009 06:19
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Nerobro posted:Footfall I think was the name.
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Feb 14, 2009 10:36
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what precautions should I take to clean a rusty chain on the bike? I've never had to park my bike outside before exposed to british winter elements, so I've never had a chain go rusty before! I'm guessing a stiff brush and a can of chain cleaner, but I don't know if there's anything specific I should do about the rusty bits. I think I'm going to switch to gear oil rather than spray wax too, and/or look into a scottoiler.
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Feb 14, 2009 10:48
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I had the chain on my bike get a light coating of surface rust after the loving city decided that salt was the answer to all of life's problems.  Half an hour with some 0000 steel wool, a bottle of 75w90 gear oil (the stuff I use to normally oil my chain), and a fair amount of elbow grease, and it was good as new. Deeper rust, though, I'm not so sure this method would have worked - immersion in kero might work, or a long oil bath.
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Feb 14, 2009 11:04
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I'm pretty sure it's just surface rust, but there's a lot of it. I Might grab a picture later. I haven't got a paddock stand or center stand and I'm dealing with on-street parking so I can't get very intensive. I could ride it to the shop down the road, it's about due for a professional looking-over. Might look into getting ordering up a factory center stand and having them install it while it's there.
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Feb 14, 2009 13:25
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Center stands are awesome and there's no goddamn reason every bike shouldn't have one, unless it's a race bike. 
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Feb 14, 2009 23:33
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I didn't realize I had one until I was going through dips too fast and hitting it.
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Feb 14, 2009 23:48
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Simkin posted:Center stands are awesome and there's no goddamn reason every bike shouldn't have one, unless it's a race bike. :iamafag: One emoticon reply.
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Feb 15, 2009 01:04
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Also, if bike companies could all follow BMW's example and have their bikes balance on the center stand such that you can just ride off (without having to roll if off the stand first), that would be great. tia
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Feb 15, 2009 04:53
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Stupid question alert: Can you use regular car oil in motorcycles? Bike in quesion: my newly aquired Suzuki GS400 (I think it's from 1978). I know you can use 10w-30 in some manual transmissions, so they should lubricate a motorcycle's transmission as well, right? And is there any difference between regular and synthetic for motorcycles? IE suppose I drained my oil and put in Mobil 1, would it be fine?
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Feb 15, 2009 05:39
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Simkin posted:Also, if bike companies could all follow BMW's example and have their bikes balance on the center stand such that you can just ride off (without having to roll if off the stand first), that would be great. tia Wouldnt that mean it wouldnt be locked as securely back on the stand? I kind of like how my 600 goes up and back and locks down on the center stand. Puts my mind at ease with it sitting next to my car in the garage.
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Feb 15, 2009 05:40
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MrZig posted:Stupid question alert: Friction modifier differences since the clutches share the same oil and car engines dont run into that problem. I would stick to motorcycle engine only unless it was a dry clutch assembly.
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Feb 15, 2009 05:41
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dietcokefiend posted:Friction modifier differences since the clutches share the same oil and car engines dont run into that problem. I would stick to motorcycle engine only unless it was a dry clutch assembly. Yes. The general rule is that if it has the energy saving seal on the back of the bottle not to use it. The other problem with car oil is that it often has a different viscosity range (5w30, 10w30) than what your bike wants, which is usually 10w40.
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Feb 15, 2009 05:56
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dietcokefiend posted:Wouldnt that mean it wouldnt be locked as securely back on the stand? I kind of like how my 600 goes up and back and locks down on the center stand. Puts my mind at ease with it sitting next to my car in the garage. No, it's locked pretty firmly on the stand, but the weight is on the back wheel, rather than the front, so you can just fire the bike up, and drive away. It does involve a little bit of feathering the clutch, as you have to give the bike some impetus to get up and over the stand, which seems to imply that it's not going anywhere on its own.
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Feb 15, 2009 06:01
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That said, there are oils that are not specifically sold for motorcycle application that can still work. Shell Rotella-T is the one I've heard brought up, it's a heavy-duty/truck/diesel oil, but its additives also apparently make it work well for motorcycles. (Also it's cheap as all gently caress, pricewise.) I don't know that I'd use it in a modern 600-I4 but I'm gonna trial it in my KLR. Actually, therein lies a question of my own, the Rotella-T I'm using is 15w40 but my bike is specced for 10w40, is a 5-weight difference enough to cause problems with cold-weather riding?
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Feb 15, 2009 06:07
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Yea, I just use diesel oil in my bike. Easier than finding motorcycle specific oil and paying through the nose for it.
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Feb 15, 2009 07:08
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MrZig posted:Stupid question alert: You're better off using dino oil. And changing often. Synthetic won't provide you any benefits. I use white bottle shell rotella-t. AKA the dino oil stuff. It's 10w40 and doesn't have friction modifiers. Simkin posted:No, it's locked pretty firmly on the stand, but the weight is on the back wheel, rather than the front, so you can just fire the bike up, and drive away. It does involve a little bit of feathering the clutch, as you have to give the bike some impetus to get up and over the stand, which seems to imply that it's not going anywhere on its own. If I have my bike on the centerstand, with just a little rocking I can knock it down. No need to "drive" off the centerstand.
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Feb 15, 2009 07:14
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I wonder why BMW bikes have the center stand set up that way, then. Every other bike I've seen/ridden has balanced on the center stand and front wheel, except for my dad's R1150GS. I'd assume it's the same for most BMW bikes.
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Feb 15, 2009 08:57
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Simkin posted:No, it's locked pretty firmly on the stand, but the weight is on the back wheel, rather than the front, so you can just fire the bike up, and drive away. It does involve a little bit of feathering the clutch, as you have to give the bike some impetus to get up and over the stand, which seems to imply that it's not going anywhere on its own. one of the major benefits of a center stand is ease of chain maintenance, although that generally is a non-issue when it comes to BMWs. Weight on the back wheel kind of defeats the purpose.
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Feb 15, 2009 13:32
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i thought they were designed to balance center mass so you could tripod it on either wheel? that's how i saw it work on an 80s R100GS anyway. (this one) my 1955 rests on the front wheel.
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Feb 15, 2009 13:48
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^^ As has been said many times before, that's an awesome looking bike. Hmm. That may actually be the case - it's been a while since I've been on his bike, but it could just be that much easier to rock backwards on the center stand. Mine takes a good deal of persuasion, if I want (for whatever reason) to have the front wheel off the ground.
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Feb 15, 2009 18:40
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My friend got a Kawasake Ninja ZX6-R 2002, 33000 miles, and there's a few issues with warming up. It takes a good 5-10 minutes of using the choke or throttle before it can idle without dying, even when garaged. Also, the temperature gauge will fluctuate randomly between 100 degrees and 150 degrees every couple of seconds. The choke doesn't seem to work correct either. On my old bike when I used the choke, the more I pulled it back the more the bike's idle RPMs would increase. But on this bike it has only a small noticeable difference when its pulled all the way, then slowly moving it back it will increase the RPMs even more. Also, on both this bike and my friends Honda CBR 600 F4 2000 (8000 miles), they make this weird sound when I'm behind them that I don't hear on anyone else's bikes. It sounds like the spinning of old worn out bearings on a skateboard. On the ZX6-R, it's much louder. I'm thinking it's their chains, but I can't be sure since they think I don't know what I'm talking about. A correlation between the CBR and the ZX6's noise is that the ZX6's chain flops around a lot more.
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Feb 15, 2009 22:58
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It's got plugged pilot circuits. Pull the pilot screws, and pilot jets. clean thoroughly. Yes, you're hearing the chain on your friends bikes.
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Feb 15, 2009 23:11
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Nerobro posted:It's got plugged pilot circuits. Pull the pilot screws, and pilot jets. clean thoroughly. Nerobro posted:Yes, you're hearing the chain on your friends bikes. Is it bad? Do they need new chains? Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Feb 15, 2009 |
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Feb 15, 2009 23:29
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Jack the Smack posted:Carbs? quote:Is it bad? Do they need new chains?
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Feb 15, 2009 23:40
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NightGyr posted:According to the Hurt study, color had no effect on accident incidence. As far as I can tell, the lights make much more difference. If they see you, they'll see you if the bike is black or white or lime green, if they don't they don't. It's not some stealth camo. That doesn't make any sense to me. I can't see cars that are that color (especially in the rain..they just blend right into the road/sky/rain), and seeing a bright yellow bike is much easier than seeing a dark black bike. How is that any different than wearing a bright yellow rain jacket as compared to a pitch black one?
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Feb 16, 2009 00:44
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If you want a noticeable bike, get some neons yo. Click here for the full 800x515 image. Awww yea
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Feb 16, 2009 01:02
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Hopefully someone who isn't an idiot at soldering can help me. I needed to solder a few connections and join a couple wires via solder on my bike today. I had a pencil type iron of 25 watts and some of the wires were thicker, ie 12 gauge, so I grabbed an 85 watt gun type iron. I let the thing warm up and try to get some solder on the tip, but it wouldn't even melt it. I had it on for maybe 20 seconds total (intermitently, not 20 seconds straight), and I had barely melted any solder and the thing just sparked and stopped working. I tried the other iron and had no luck either- barely able to melt solder much less heat up the joint enough. My plan now is to get an iron or gun of at least 100 watt power that isn't made like a piece of poo poo, and try again. I don't know how soldering could be so difficult. In the meantime my bike will sit while several critical connections hang loose or spliced and I can't get them back together (crimp connects aren't viable for what I'm doing and it has to be soldered). It was 35-40 degrees outside, and no I don't have anywhere else to work. I'm not sure if it was too cold, my irons were lovely, my soldering inexperience or some of each.
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Feb 17, 2009 02:15
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| # ? May 16, 2024 00:46 |
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You need to make sure your soldering tip is nice and clean to start out with. Fold up a paper towel and wet it. Rub the tip on it when it gets hot to get all of the crud that may have accumulated on it. Now, melt some solder on the tip. Give it a good coating to where it looks shiny. Now, you should be able to touch the tip to the wires and have solder flow. When heating the wires hold the tip under the joint (making contact). Touch the solder to the strands a bit above the tip to get the melting started. Once it has, put the solder opposite to where the tip is and it should start to flow nicely. Once you have an acceptable joint, remove the tip and solder but keep the wires still for a few more seconds while the solder cools. If it ends up looking all nice and shiny, you did a good job. If it's dull grey then it's a cold joint and will need to be done again.
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Feb 17, 2009 02:47
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