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also, make sure you're using flux-core solder or it won't stick to poo poo.
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Feb 17, 2009 02:55
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25 watt is enough for just about anything short of soldering the ground cable, or starter wire. It sounds like your soldering gun burnt out. Make sure the wire is clean. Use lots of flux. Make sure you have some solder on the tip of the iron already. (that helps transfer heat from the iorn to the wire) Make sure the iron is VERY hot.
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Feb 17, 2009 03:16
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Question, as the idea intrigues me: Does anyone know if the frames for most late seventies Honda CBs are the same, motor-mount wise? This may sound fairly dumb, but in the past year I found a '79 CB750, which should've been a DOHC, with an SOHC shoved in it. I've heard stories of a CB650 with a CB550 engine, which seems more plausible given they're both SOHC engines and I presume the same block may have been used (but who knows). Finally, looking at the '79 CB650 and CB750, I see a good number of similarities in general proportions (the fact that the CB650 and CB750ltd have pretty much identical paint schemes certainly doesn't hurt). Do I sound like a fruitcake? More importantly, does this sound plausible, or is everyone just welding motor mounts left and right?
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Feb 17, 2009 04:26
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It's possible, but highly unlikely. Honda tends to completely engineer each bike completely from scratch. Most likely people are fabbing up new motor mount tabs.
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Feb 17, 2009 04:28
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Has anyone let their carbs sit submersed in a tub of seafoam overnight? Would that clean them out pretty good?
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Feb 17, 2009 06:26
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God-damned Pilates posted:Question, as the idea intrigues me: I know for a fact that the SOHC 650 motor will fit into a 500 or 550 frame no problem. You just have a different looking head and lose the kickstart. The 750s I'm not too sure about. I think you are right about the '79. I thought they had gone DOHC at that point. Neroboro is right though. Honda really likes to make similar models have very dissimilar parts. Even between the F and K models of the 750 you have different tanks, seats, sidecovers, and corresponding mounting points on the frames being different as well. The 650 frame looks similar to the 750s, but from reading it seems that it's a ton of work to get the engine to fit (if at all possible). From experience, the 750 engine barely fits in it's own frame. I used to be really into Hondas until I started playing with Suzukis (Neroboro also gets a lot of the credit for this). The 'zukes really are like legos. Much easier to build what you want out of different bikes.
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Feb 17, 2009 06:43
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MrZig posted:Has anyone let their carbs sit submersed in a tub of seafoam overnight? Would that clean them out pretty good? It's a very bad plan. Mechanical cleaning and directed cleaning is the only way to really clean them. Not to mention that in the CV carb thread, your exact set of carbs is disassembled for you ;-) Okey, I just checked. I lied. I took the pictures of the BS34's, but I didn't post them. I"ll post them tonight. Your carbs are essentially the same as the BS32SS's that start the thread off. They can be cleaned in less than an hour. And a link to the thread. The post will be ready in less than 90 minutes. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3017242&pagenumber=1 [edit] Post is completed. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Feb 17, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 06:47
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Nerobro posted:It's a very bad plan. Mechanical cleaning and directed cleaning is the only way to really clean them. Not to mention that in the CV carb thread, your exact set of carbs is disassembled for you ;-) Awesome. I didn't mean my carbs specifically though, I just thought as a general idea if seafoam would desolve the grime if a part was left submersed in it. Although my carbs have sat for at the very least a year with gas still in them so it would be a good idea to take them apart and clean them. MrZig fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Feb 17, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 06:53
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it might dissolve any bad stuff in there, but that doesn't mean it'll actually get it out of the carb. there are a lot of tiny little holes for fuel and air and little pockets and bowls and pipes and whatnot, and just pouring solvents into it might just temporarily loosen it up. if you've got the carbs off the bike already, i'd go ahead and take them apart.
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Feb 17, 2009 07:59
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Infinotize posted:Hopefully someone who isn't an idiot at soldering can help me. I needed to solder a few connections and join a couple wires via solder on my bike today. I had a pencil type iron of 25 watts and some of the wires were thicker, ie 12 gauge, so I grabbed an 85 watt gun type iron. I let the thing warm up and try to get some solder on the tip, but it wouldn't even melt it. I had it on for maybe 20 seconds total (intermitently, not 20 seconds straight), and I had barely melted any solder and the thing just sparked and stopped working. I tried the other iron and had no luck either- barely able to melt solder much less heat up the joint enough. I thought you weren't supposed to solder connections on a bike because vibration makes the joints break? You're supposed to use crimped-on connectors instead?
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Feb 17, 2009 09:40
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MrZig posted:Awesome. I didn't mean my carbs specifically though, I just thought as a general idea if seafoam would desolve the grime if a part was left submersed in it. Although my carbs have sat for at the very least a year with gas still in them so it would be a good idea to take them apart and clean them. I find Seafoam won't dissolve solid varnish if you just soak parts in it but it works great to rinse it away if its already soft. I use carb cleaner for soaking and Seafoam deep creep for rinsing.
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Feb 17, 2009 13:01
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My general rule of thumb is that I never soak carbs unless they're completely covered internally with varnish (i.e. someone put the bike away years ago with a full bowl of gas). Thats really the only scenario where it makes sense. If you're trying to just clear up an idle issue or something, get at the affected jets/passages, and spray the poo poo out of them with carb cleaner. Its much quicker and much more effective.
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Feb 17, 2009 16:18
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Zenaida posted:I thought you weren't supposed to solder connections on a bike because vibration makes the joints break? You're supposed to use crimped-on connectors instead? Solder with heatshrink looks really clean but the FAA says that crimps are the way to go on planes. Personally I've never seen either fail in an automotive application if done right. If you have a good solder joint/use good crimps and crimpers, you should be safe.
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Feb 17, 2009 16:25
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I've had two solder joints fail on bikes before. Though both were done by previous owners, it did happen. It should be noted that neither were heat-shrink wrapped. I'm a crimp man when it comes to bikes.
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Feb 17, 2009 16:31
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Phat_Albert posted:I'm a crimp man when it comes to bikes. Is there some sort of special way to crimp a butt connector? I've used them before and always fallen back to solder because they always feel loose and I can never seem to get them very secure.
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Feb 17, 2009 16:34
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If you have a crimper, its dead simple, and I've never had one fall apart on me. If you're just flattening them with vise grips or something, I can see how it wouldnt work. The only trick is to get some of the PVC jacket into the metal crimped part. That keeps the actual copper strands from flexing and fatiguing. This is the crimper I have, and it works perfectly. It'll crimp anything. http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1949 Skip the thin little crimpers like this for bike work. I find that its hard to crimp an entire connector with them, and it winds up weak or loose.
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Feb 17, 2009 17:23
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The funny thing is that part of what I'm "fixing" is factory crimps. It's one of those bad connector issues where people end up with melted plastic connections (happened to the main ignition connector on my SV and happend to a lot of SV1k owners). The factory crimps are tight and look perfect but so many people have had them fail that it's always recommended to new owners to solder them, and pretty much everyone who does it notices the connector to be noticably cooler because of lower resistance and don't have failures. The other solder i need to do is joining a wire to another that isn't disconnected - I'm slicing a portion of the insulation, wrapping another wire to it and soldering without disconnecting the original wire. I don't think that's crimpable and I'm not using one of those crappy inline splice squeeze connectors. Once it's soldered and taped it should be pretty sturdy I think. I just ordered a Weller pro soldering gun and read a whole bunch of tutorials so I'll give it another go when that comes in.
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Feb 17, 2009 17:53
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Phat_Albert posted:If you have a crimper, its dead simple, and I've never had one fall apart on me. If you're just flattening them with vise grips or something, I can see how it wouldnt work. Thats probably my problem. I'm using one of the aforementioned thin little crimpers. I'm also using some pretty cheap connectors. Now what I've been doing up until now as complete and total overkill is soldering the wires together, crimping over the soldered wires, and then shrink wrapping the whole deal. Its a stupid way of doing things but I don't trust my soldering or crimping skills and I haven't had a connection like this fail yet. Of course it takes forever to do it this way.
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Feb 17, 2009 17:54
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Recently bought a 2005 Ninja 250 with 170 miles on it. The previous owner dropped it and broke off the right turn signal and bent the rear brake. I need to have these items fixed before I can take it to inspection. Where would the best place be to buy the replacement parts? I don't do much work on cars and none on bikes, are either of these difficult to repair?
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Feb 17, 2009 18:06
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Oceanlife posted:Recently bought a 2005 Ninja 250 with 170 miles on it. The previous owner dropped it and broke off the right turn signal and bent the rear brake. I need to have these items fixed before I can take it to inspection. They're both very easy to repair, and I'd source both of those parts off of ebay. They're common break items, so you should be able to get away with well under 50$ for the both of them. You could also just bend the rear brake straight, if possible.
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Feb 17, 2009 18:10
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Bugdrvr posted:I know for a fact that the SOHC 650 motor will fit into a 500 or 550 frame no problem. You just have a different looking head and lose the kickstart. This makes a lot of sense; I know the DOHC K-F-C bikes all have more or less interchangable engines (the 750 is solid mount, 900/1000/1100 are rubber mount, and you need to swap chain drive to chain drive and shaft to shaft, if that makes sense), but they're all based on the exact same block in each case anyhow. The plastics I knew about; this is why my sidecovers are $50 apiece. It would stand to reason that the SOHC bikes would be similar if they're based on the same block in the first place... but the smaller SOHC bikes are actually all related, rather than being related to the 750 from what I understand... the 550 is a 500 bored out, and the 650 is the really big version of that rather than the 750 being made smaller..? So I would think 500-550-650 would be compatible from that standpoint (same blocks = same mounting points), but the 750 wouldn't be as likely. And my DOHC bike would be a different monster on top of that, given the whole thing is just brand new in the first place, so it's not as surprising that it wouldn't be compatible. Honda just decided to use an extremely similar tank/seat/sidecover setup on the 79 650 as my 79 750ltd just to be jerks, which given the way they designed pretty much everything on the bike*, is just keeping the status quo. *see: carbs, how the valves are adjusted, random things designed solely to scrape your knuckle, etc...
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Feb 17, 2009 20:19
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There were basically three SOHC engines. The 350F. This turned into the 400F by being bored out. It also had a completely redesigned head and a sixth gear. The 500F. This was redesigned into the 550F. It was also done with a bore job. Most everything else is the same though. I do know they changed the gear ratios in the trans to slow down the primary chain as they were wearing out in the 500s. Then it was made into the 650F. This bottom end is similar to the 550 with the deletion of the kick start and a change in the shaft driving the timing componants as it picked up electronic ignition at this time. The head was also redesigned as well as the timing chain guides and tensioners. The 650 also had a funny looking valve cover that doesn't look much like the rest of the SOHC motors. The 750. This is the only dry sump engine out of the three. This is also the engine I know the least about. I am pretty sure they are mostly forward and backward compatible. EDIT: Just to add, this is just what I remember off the top of my head. I'm sure there are more things changed between them than I listed. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Feb 17, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 22:30
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Not at all related to SOHC bikes, but hilarious, I found this in Wikipedia on the CB360: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CB360 quote:The new model had equally good handling characteristics to the CB350 twin it replaced. The model was dropped in 1976 due to the oil crisis and was not directly replaced. Anyone lucky enough to own a piece of history in decent to mint condition is usually reluctant to part with it, as riding these motorcycles [as with any vintage] down a public highway enstills a sense of pride rarily seen on todays bikes. Good job on the objectivity there, Wikipedia poster!
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Feb 17, 2009 22:42
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That whole article is completely full of poo poo. Everything...
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Feb 17, 2009 22:50
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Nobody checks in on the CB360 article often, it would seem. Now if only Kaneida drove a CB360, we'd have seventeen pages of how his bike differed from reality and why Honda screwed up in not retroactively making a new bike with those features (whether they existed in reality or not), etc... vv Some scraggly dude with social anxiety is gunning for you now. vv George RR Fartin fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Feb 18, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 23:18
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Consider the article edited for accuracy ;-)
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Feb 18, 2009 03:18
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Mother loving rain. My "waterproof" backpack is damp as hell, ruined a notebook. My "waterproof" firstgear jacket got water in the interior pocket, almost breaking my cellphone. My "waterproof" gloves got water inside them and I couldn't feel my hand for the last 10 miles. That last one is mostly a function of a dumb rear end glove design. Gauntlet over jacket means water trickles down the jacket into the glove. Ugh. A glove designed to fit inside the sleeve would resolve this problem. Rain for the next few weeks. drat.
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Feb 18, 2009 06:55
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ziplock/plastic bags? Although I feel ya. They were supposed to be "waterproof"
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Feb 18, 2009 07:15
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ail posted:Mother loving rain. My "waterproof" backpack is damp as hell, ruined a notebook. My "waterproof" firstgear jacket got water in the interior pocket, almost breaking my cellphone. My "waterproof" gloves got water inside them and I couldn't feel my hand for the last 10 miles. That last one is mostly a function of a dumb rear end glove design. Gauntlet over jacket means water trickles down the jacket into the glove. Ugh. It happens the other way around as well. Gauntlet inside jacket sleeve means the water gets forced up your arm by the headwind you're generating and the normal winds out there. Although my experience is mostly Scottish rain, it does depend on how Hell-like the wind and the rain is out there. Most of my gear leaks, or at least leaks after a while in the rain, except my jacket. With all the shenanigans I've had with kit, getting it to fit (6'4" and 32" waist), and it being within my price range, my jacket is the one bit of kit that fitted me, was the right price and has never let me down. Also, we saw these really awesome Alpinestar gloves when we were in Hein Gericke last time. They had both racing and touring version, albeit both were over 100 quid, but they both had a double cuff. One cuff to go inside the jacket, and then another one to clamp on around the outside. Definitely something I'm going to bear in mind for my next set of winter gloves.
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Feb 18, 2009 11:41
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ail posted:Mother loving rain. My "waterproof" backpack is damp as hell, ruined a notebook. My "waterproof" firstgear jacket got water in the interior pocket, almost breaking my cellphone. My "waterproof" gloves got water inside them and I couldn't feel my hand for the last 10 miles. That last one is mostly a function of a dumb rear end glove design. Gauntlet over jacket means water trickles down the jacket into the glove. Ugh.
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Feb 18, 2009 16:01
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ail posted:Mother loving rain. My "waterproof" backpack is damp as hell, ruined a notebook. My "waterproof" firstgear jacket got water in the interior pocket, almost breaking my cellphone. My "waterproof" gloves got water inside them and I couldn't feel my hand for the last 10 miles. That last one is mostly a function of a dumb rear end glove design. Gauntlet over jacket means water trickles down the jacket into the glove. Ugh. i usually put expensive electronics into ziplock bags inside the rucksack for added security but i've yet to find water in the bag after riding in the rain http://www.kriega.com/pages_uk/r35/R35frameset.html edit: its also pretty much the best backpack for riding i've ever had, the 4 point harness straps are in a different league to normal rucksacks in terms of ease of use and load distribution. echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Feb 18, 2009 |
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Feb 18, 2009 20:45
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To Z3n or anyone who does track days: I am accompanying a friend to his first track day as pit crew/moral support. Neither of us have ever participated in a track day before. Is there anything we absolutely must bring? I'm thinking bottled water, full tool set, and a hat. Anything else?
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Feb 18, 2009 20:50
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MrKatharsis posted:To Z3n or anyone who does track days: Chairs are nice. Bring some snacky type foods. I'm partial to beef jerky. Bannanas for potassium. Avoid red bull, monster/etc type energy drinks, because they'll make you (him) jittery and on edge. CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURES. I have a bicycle pump I keep around for minor adjustments in tire pressure, which won't be a concern at a first trackday, but do get them set right in the morning. Have him park his bike with the tires in the sun, it'll give him a little additional comfort when it comes to running warm up laps. Remind him to take his warmup laps. He'll get out there, be all jazzed after his last session, and go hauling balls into some corner at the same speed he used at the end of last session, and it'll end badly. I think that's pretty much it, really. And encourage him to take it at his own pace. He's on the track but just because it's the best place to crash, it doesn't mean he should 
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Feb 18, 2009 22:44
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So my 76 Ossa Mick Andrew Replica project. I found today that there is very very slight play in the crank bearings (found with the general wiggling of the flywheel.) In the perfect world I'd replace them (if it was my bike that is). Well, it's my girlfriends bike so she's wondering if she can get away with it for a season. I'm inclined to say yes of course since it runs fine without noise, but I figured I'd ask here anyway.
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Feb 19, 2009 02:23
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MrKatharsis posted:To Z3n or anyone who does track days: Have fun and talk to people. Motorcyclists are awesome and easy to talk to and track days are about enjoying yourself. Don't take it too seriously.
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Feb 19, 2009 02:45
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VTNewb posted:So my 76 Ossa Mick Andrew Replica project. I found today that there is very very slight play in the crank bearings (found with the general wiggling of the flywheel.) I dunno, if its not blowing oil, making noise, or anything, just run it. If you're going to do the bearings and seals anyway, you may as well run these ones till they give up the ghost.
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Feb 19, 2009 05:42
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The clutch on my 2007 Ninja 250 (6k miles) seems to be dragging. I've adjusted the play in the lever via the nuts on the clutch cable and also the little adjustment screw on the lever. It is more or less within that suggested by ninja250.org (about a 3mm max gap between where the lever contacts the perch before actually encountering resistance). What bothers me is that when I have the bike on the centerstand and have the bike running, in first gear, and pull in the clutch, the wheel keeps turning, and a reasonable amount of force on the tire on my part won't stop it. With the bike off, in first gear, pulling in the clutch and trying to rotate the wheel by hand is very difficult. From what I can tell, I've also adjusted the clutch such that the maximum amount of clutch pull is achieved when I pull in the clutch lever, as well. I've also got the adjustment clicker set for the most amount of engaged lever travel. I don't really know what else to adjust. I recall prior to me fiddling with it, that it didn't have as big of a problem. I would park on the centerstand, rev it in first gear with the clutch pulled in, and the wheel would slip free of engagement and then sit and not spin. For some reason, what I thought might have given me even more clutch pull has made things worse. Lastly, when I let go of the clutch lever, the little arm that is attached to the transmission end of the clutch cable appears to fully disengage. It doesn't seem to be partially engaged when I'm not actually pulling in the clutch lever, which is a good thing from what I can tell. Argh... French Canadian fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Feb 19, 2009 |
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Feb 19, 2009 06:10
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It's fine. There's still some drag on the clutch plates and transmission because of the design of motorcycle clutches. I have never owned a bike that doesn't get some spin when the clutch is engaged and it's in gear. You get oil in there and the clutch plates will drag against one another and freewheel the rear wheel slightly. It's nothing to be concerned about. Adjust it back to where it's comfortable for you.
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Feb 19, 2009 06:55
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Z3n posted:It's fine. There's still some drag on the clutch plates and transmission because of the design of motorcycle clutches. I have never owned a bike that doesn't get some spin when the clutch is engaged and it's in gear. You get oil in there and the clutch plates will drag against one another and freewheel the rear wheel slightly. It's nothing to be concerned about. Adjust it back to where it's comfortable for you. I'm comfortable with how everything operates while riding, but it just bothered me to know that there's that much force between the clutch and flywheel when I have the clutch lever pulled all the way in. I'm not feeling any propelling forward force while sitting on the bike at a standstill with the clutch pulled in, so I guess it's okay. I'll just leave it alone if it's not gonna burn my clutch out (though I usually dip into neutral at long stoplights).
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Feb 19, 2009 07:40
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French Canadian posted:I'm comfortable with how everything operates while riding, but it just bothered me to know that there's that much force between the clutch and flywheel when I have the clutch lever pulled all the way in. I'm not feeling any propelling forward force while sitting on the bike at a standstill with the clutch pulled in, so I guess it's okay. I'll just leave it alone if it's not gonna burn my clutch out (though I usually dip into neutral at long stoplights). It's really not that much force. It doesn't take a lot of drag to get the rear wheel spinning like that. It's not going to damage anything. Be careful with neutral at stoplights if you don't have cars stacked up behind you a few deep in case you get someone who decides it'd be easier to hit you than stop.
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Feb 19, 2009 07:42
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