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Phat_Albert posted:Can you weld, or do you know someone who can? Your best bet for the exhaust is to take some measurements and head to JCWhitney.com or something like that and try to find an exhaust that is close to the diameter of the part you are cutting off. The only welding I've done was when I took metal shop in 8th grade  Not that I wouldn't love to learn but I don't know anyone with equipment. It's probably JCW that I saw the megaphone mufflers on, iirc. If I can find a proper size, what do I do to get the old mufflers off? Sawzall? Hacksaw? Chewing? They are welded on. I'm at work so I can't get a picture, but the hole is in the muffler on the left side top. It's not even a "hole" per se, but the chrome has rusted into a spiderwebby-looking thing and while you can't see down into the exhaust you can feel the happy poisonous gasses escaping with some force. The headers, while a bit discolored, are still in decent shape.
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Feb 24, 2009 17:34
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MrKatharsis posted:Call around, call around, call around. Geico wanted $2800 from me. Progressive wanted $1600, Liberty Mutual only wants $900. The lesson is: CALL AROUND. I did for my ninja and surprisingly Geico was the cheapest. I've done some online ones but I'll call around again for my gsxr
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Feb 24, 2009 17:49
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Christoff posted:What's the best chain lube and where to get? How often should I lube it up? Just when it visibly might need some? I lube my chain every 300 miles (every weekend or two) and clean it every other time (mostly out of lazyness). Change the chain and sprockets when they are worn out. On my bike, I just have to clean the air filter. I did that at 8,000 miles and it was filthy, so I'm going to do it every 3000-5000 miles or whenever I get around to giving it an oil change.
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Feb 24, 2009 18:28
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Christoff posted:What's the best chain lube and where to get? How often should I lube it up? Just when it visibly might need some? I've taken Z3n's advice and now lube my chain with 90w gear oil. It's so goddamn cheap compared to the spray on poo poo, it's not even funny. I usually oil once every 2-300km (pretty much every time I fill up on petrol), with a proper cleaning of the chain every 2-3 tanks. I used to just run a rag along the chain while the bike idled in neutral, as there was just enough force to spin the wheel. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS. A week ago, my bike decided that since it was cold, it would transmit a bit more power than normal through the oil, and as a result, I got my thumb caught between the sprocket and chain. 7 hours spend waiting in the emergency ward for some x-rays and stitches later, I've come to the conclusion that I should just spin the goddamn wheel by hand. 
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Feb 24, 2009 20:13
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Simkin posted:I've taken Z3n's advice and now lube my chain with 90w gear oil. It's so goddamn cheap compared to the spray on poo poo, it's not even funny. I usually oil once every 2-300km (pretty much every time I fill up on petrol), with a proper cleaning of the chain every 2-3 tanks. Jesus, at least you still had a finger. I instantly thought back to the person who put their bike in gear and ripped their finger off. I only lube my chain from rear since it prevents any sort of accident. If you remove the rear wheel from a bike, is there enough room around the front sprocket to slip the chain off completely?
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Feb 24, 2009 20:51
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Where do you even get 90w gear oil? The only thing I can find is 80w-90 and 85w-140 gear oil. Also, do you have any problems with oil flinging everywhere? I've been using the paraffin-base no-fling chain wax but it is pretty expensive compared to gear oil.
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Feb 24, 2009 20:53
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Daamn Simkin, that sucks. You have my symapthies but also a dumbass-slap for doing it. Holding a stiff brush or something against a spinning sprocket might not be so bad though.dietcokefiend posted:
Easily. If you can get the chain off without splitting it (I can't, due to space constraints), it will probably come off if the rear wheel is pushed all the way in on the adjusting rail. The NonBornKing posted:Where do you even get 90w gear oil? The only thing I can find is 80w-90 and 85w-140 gear oil. Also, do you have any problems with oil flinging everywhere? I've been using the paraffin-base no-fling chain wax but it is pretty expensive compared to gear oil. It doesn't have to be exactly that viscosity, just something thick compared to motor oil. 80w-90 will do just fine. I've read much good about this:  But I can't find a single shop that sells it, or even anything similar. I can't even find anyone in the business that have heard about the company DuPont, which is weird. I guess all retailers only know their catalogue, but I'll check out some Pro shops. In America it's available at Lowe's and it's only a few bucks. The advantages are what it says on the tin, it's dry and doesn't attract dirt. My chain is worn out, the reason is the PO never cleaned it but only lubed it. Dirt and lube together becomes grinding paste. I'm going to get a kind of pimp x-ring chain from DID and use this teflon stuff if I can get it. The most lube critical component of an X/O ring chain is sealed anyway, the drier stuff will do the rest of the job (I trust DuPont and internet lore on this) while also making it easier for me to keep it clean. It might be good for cables and stuff as well. Motorcycle-specific stuff from dealer outlets is just like stuff for cars, overpriced and well marketed. I'm sure 90W oil is more than good enough compared to the rather expensive chain wax I've bought. I got a chain cleaner that was an excellent degreaser though, used it on all kinds of other stuff instead of my regular degreaser and now I'm spoiled. 
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Feb 24, 2009 21:27
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Ola posted:Easily. If you can get the chain off without splitting it (I can't, due to space constraints), it will probably come off if the rear wheel is pushed all the way in on the adjusting rail. Well I can remove the entire rear wheel without a problem, leaving the chain slack sitting on a piece of foam on the floor. With it that slack can it just pop off the front gear and move it out? Not sure who it was but someone said original chains need to be cut off unless you are removing the front sprocket first because they have no master link  I really want to get the chain off cause the PO never cleaned it. Still feels pretty firm, and with 9k I want to get it back into good condition so I don't need to replace the sprockets and chain just yet.
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Feb 24, 2009 21:31
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Your intentions are good. But you're only going to make backward steps. Leave the chain on the bike. If you're DEAD SET on cleaning it well, break out the WD40 and brush, and go to town on the chain. with the chain on the bike. If you have a continous chain. (aka, factory chain) you need to remove the swingarm to take it off the bike.
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Feb 24, 2009 21:38
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What's the proper way to cleaning the chain on the bike? I'm going to have to source that Depont Teflon Multi-Use
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Feb 24, 2009 22:45
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I detest cleaning chains, which is 90% of the reason that I use gear lube, anything heavy weight is fine...the gear lube will break down any old crusty poo poo and clean the chain, so you never really have to clean it...just lube it with gear lube, wipe it down, and repeat after a ride and you'll have a clean chain. Then go back to your normal interval, typically around every 2 tanks of gas for me.
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Feb 24, 2009 22:58
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Ola posted:Daamn Simkin, that sucks. You have my symapthies but also a dumbass-slap for doing it. Holding a stiff brush or something against a spinning sprocket might not be so bad though. BreakFree CLP has a teflon component too, I've been using it to clean/lube my guns and recently the chain on my bike. It has the advantage of being a pretty decent solvent and anti-corrosive in addition to being a lube. You can usually find it in the sporting goods section at walmart, and you can order it in bulk, too. Just be sure to get liquid variant that comes in a plastic bottle, and not the kind that comes in an aerosol can, as the aerosol stuff tends to get all over the place. 
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Feb 24, 2009 23:44
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Thing is, I live in Norway so most consumer type products are either sold under another brand or not at all. There's probably other ones that are just as good, but I'm pretty well sold on that DuPont can.
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Feb 24, 2009 23:49
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quote:Dear Ola, Looks like their customer contact workload is pretty small if the director of sales and marketing replies in four minutes. If his day is so slow maybe he should fill it by setting up Scandinavian franchises!
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Feb 25, 2009 00:10
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I have a 99 V-Star Classic. Anybody know where to find out what kind of headlight / signal lights it takes? I lost the manual and it is surprisingly hard to find this stuff online. I ask under the assumption they are more or less the same that might be used for cars, and I can just get them in the auto parts store (where the parts book only has listings for cars, though). If I have to go to the dealer then I'll do that, but that seems silly.
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Feb 25, 2009 00:44
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I think methods for chain lubing rival those arguments over what oil to use. My understanding of modern O-ring/X-ring/etc chains is that you really just want to keep them clean and don't dirt get into the O-rings. I try to make sure I keep my chain clean, I don't worry too much about it staying super lubed. I agree that gear oil is nice to use. Chain wax is nice in rain because it does stay on the chain. All that really matters is that you have a properly tensioned chain that is relatively clean.
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Feb 25, 2009 00:45
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^^ Yes, chain maintenance ranks right up there with oil selection and GT- discussion, in terms of how it polarizes people.dietcokefiend posted:I only lube my chain from rear since it prevents any sort of accident. Yeah, it certainly wasn't one of my brighter moments. Turning the bike off with one hand wedged in place was kind of interesting as well. Thankfully, adrenaline does wonderful things for allowing you to ignore any discomfort. The gear oil I use isn't a straight 90w, it's 75w90 semi-synth from Crappy Tire  When I have occasion to do any more than just wipe off excess oil (or wipe it clean before applying fresh oil), I use kerosene, a stiff nylon brush, something to keep the kero off of any important bits (usually a chunk of cardboard), and a fair old whack of patience. A full cleaning, if the chain's really dirty, usually takes about an hour or so, more if I'm anal, less if I just want to get the gritty bits out.I find that with the gear oil, I do get a bit more fling-off than using motorcycle specific chain lube, but then again, it doesn't turn into some gummy, abrasive poo poo that just grinds the everloving gently caress out of everything. No matter how good you wipe your chain down after applying fresh oil, you will get some small amount of fling off, and you'll likely develop a waterproof patch on your driveway.  Even if the oil didn't make such good lube, I'd probably still stick with it, because it's just so bloody cheap in comparison to anything. Seriously, a 1L bottle of the stuff was ~CAD$8.00, and has lasted me at least 6 months - that's including using it on several motorcycles and bikes (oh yeah, it's also good for pedal bikes). With the spray on stuff, the cheapest that I could usually find was ~$6.00, I'd be lucky if that lasted a month, and it was always a pain in the rear end to clean afterwards. vv It'll say in your manual, but usually it's not needed until you have to either replace the sprockets, or the chain has stretched to the point that the chain tensioner no longer does as its intended. Simkin fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Feb 25, 2009 |
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Feb 25, 2009 00:46
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I did some googling and that du pont teflon lube does seem to be a favorite all around. I'll definitely be heading to lowes to pick up a bunch of cans. I'll probably be using kerosene and a rag to clean the chain. How often to change the chain?
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Feb 25, 2009 00:47
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codewarrior posted:I have a 99 V-Star Classic. Anybody know where to find out what kind of headlight / signal lights it takes? I lost the manual and it is surprisingly hard to find this stuff online. On a guess, I googled: v star classic headlight H4 And got a bunch of hits. Looks like you've got the fairly standard, H4 60/55w bulb. I'd just go pick up some silverstars or the like from a local autoshop and swap them over. Christoff, with decent care, a chain should go an easy 20k miles. With excellent care and installation, it should go 40k+. I do have a few bottles of spray stuff floating around that I'll slap on the bike when it's raining, and then I just clean it off with more gear oil when the time comes.
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Feb 25, 2009 00:58
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codewarrior posted:I have a 99 V-Star Classic. Anybody know where to find out what kind of headlight / signal lights it takes? If they are standard then the headlight is H4 type and the flashers are called 1156. Any auto shop should have them. Motorcycle dealers will have "motorcycle specific" H4s which they claim to be better protected against vibration and weather, I don't know if that's snake oil or not but they'll certainly be way more expensive than one from your generic auto store. Christoff posted:
When it's worn! Some people get loads of mileage out of them, some change every other year. A quick wear check is pulling on the chain from the middle of the rear sprocket, it shouldn't move out.
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Feb 25, 2009 01:00
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Thanks for the help. What do you guys think of these ear plugs? Worthwhile investment? I know most of you use the cheapie foamies. http://earplugstore.stores.yahoo.net/almonasomoea.html
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Feb 25, 2009 01:35
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Christoff posted:Thanks for the help. Personally, I'd probably try these instead. I've gone through a bunch of foamies until I found the ones I really liked (the cheap orange ones), but I'm gonna try out some ones that are this design soon. http://earplugstore.stores.yahoo.net/wimoearpl.html It's really all about what fits you comfortably, as almost all earplugs will do a good job of blocking a lot of noise.
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Feb 25, 2009 01:41
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I also use the cheap soft orange foam plugs. They're good because they block noise but not as much as others I've tried. I like to hear the traffic a little.
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Feb 25, 2009 02:34
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What would be the best way to lower the weight of this?:  It's a 2008 xt250, I'm too young to have a license, and 270lbs on a 250 that is only used for trail riding, for a guy that weighs 140 is a bit meh. I was thinking obviously remove lights and things of that sort, I have a nicer pair of.. rounder tires, but what else could I do?
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Feb 25, 2009 04:26
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You're looking at cubic dollars there, at least if you want substantial weight loss. Ditch the fender extension, the turn signals... There's not a lot more to lose on a bike like that. You can try a smaller battery, but I'm going to guess the one in there is pretty tiny as is. aluminum handlebars maybe. Significant weight loss would come from new wheels, a new swingarm. Now really, what's your goal? The bikes weight isn't crazy. It's less than a MX bike. Really, I'd just say leave it alone.
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Feb 25, 2009 04:31
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 The little amount of weight you could probably save by ditching stuff like signals, fenders, and exhaust guard, probably wouldn't amount to enought to make any difference at all, really.
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Feb 25, 2009 04:35
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that bike is already a gwyneth paltrow, how much thinner can she get?
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Feb 25, 2009 05:05
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:that bike is already a gwyneth paltrow, how much thinner can she get? Kate Moss perhaps?
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Feb 25, 2009 05:15
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Finally got my wheel bearings completed. Only took one ruined set of bearings before I got it right :iamafag: I *may* have goofed something with the rear bearings on the wheel side. I want to test them before I get the new tires mounted, would a trip down the street at highway speeds show any signs of noise? I had spun the wheel on a rod listening for any sounds or imperfections and found nothing. Main thing is getting a few miles on them then removing them and checking for more play. Do bearings make noise before they go, or is it locking up instantly?
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Feb 25, 2009 06:13
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rifles posted:What would be the best way to lower the weight of this?: Echoing what everyone else is saying. You can drop some weight stripping the lights and other stuff but...just learn to ride it. dietcokefiend, you should notice play, whining, or non-smooth operation in the bearings before anything bad happens.
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Feb 25, 2009 06:39
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Well thats good I guess. When I get the tires mounted they are going to also handle the balancing of each wheel. Is there any risk of them mangling the new seals on the wheels doing this? Also do they just have some assortment of perfectly sized rods to handle the different size bearings on each wheel so they can spin it up?
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Feb 25, 2009 06:51
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Z3n posted:Echoing what everyone else is saying. You can drop some weight stripping the lights and other stuff but...just learn to ride it. Honestly it's not the learning to ride it, it's the stopping, putting my foot down on a limb and falling over like an idiot, and then not being able to pick it back up because I'm weak
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Feb 25, 2009 07:22
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Chicks can do it. That bike is so sexy.
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Feb 25, 2009 07:29
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Prince posted:I have a question regarding intersections. What state did you do your license test in, this is one of the situations that they drum into you. Like Ola said, watching at least 5 seconds in front of you, setting up your front brake when you come to a situation that you might need to brake suddenly for. Having your brake setup will cut a large chunk of time it takes you to stop. Also - BUFFERING, the instructors should of drummed this into you at the learners course that you should feel compelled to have it tattooed all over your body. Buffering means moving around in your lane to give you the most room between you and cars and potential hazards, in that scenario you should have been to the left of your lane to get the greatest possible distance from the car had it decided to turn. This coupled with setting up your brake would mean that if the car had pulled out you would not only be able to stop in the shortest amount of distance possible but you would be able to swerve and avoid the car because you were nearly an entire lane away from him to start with. So that is your answer, looking at least 5 seconds ahead, scanning intersections, watching traffic, setting up your brake before you reach potential hazards and buffering away from potential hazards.
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Feb 25, 2009 07:36
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kdc67 posted:Chicks can do it. That bike is so sexy. First week I had my bike I was moving it by standing on one side, ended up going forward and getting the stand off its locked position. Fell forward a bit and bike just crunched me and my leg. Was having flashbacks of the "i've fallen and i cant get up" commercials as I tried to get the bike up with it on top of me
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Feb 25, 2009 07:39
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Is there any particular reason people poo poo on the Suzuki Katanas? It seems like any time I mention a GSX-600F to anyone, they say its a pussy bike. From what little I've read it seems its just more relaxed all around than a GSXR. Is there some stigma attached to them? I ask this because they seem to be plentiful on craigslist, and they're a step up from my last bike, an EX500, but not as balls-out hardcore as a GSXR600 or other 600 supersport.
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Feb 25, 2009 09:04
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I mentioned the aerosol issue to the DuPont guy and he mentioned the exact same stuff is available in 4 oz squeeze bottles. Yay! I'm going to order a case of 12 from http://www.properautocare.com Is there such a thing as a compact and practical reusable aerosol-type can that you refill yourself? Or maybe I should just get used to oiling with squeeze bottles.
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Feb 25, 2009 11:27
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rifles posted:Honestly it's not the learning to ride it, it's the stopping, putting my foot down on a limb and falling over like an idiot, and then not being able to pick it back up because I'm weak I my bike fell over the first day I was actually taking her on a long trip. Full kit (full motorcross boots are not fun to push a bike in) + luggage on bike + attempting to bump start down a hill = bike starting, then me not being able to get on, bike drifting away from me and thus dragging more throttle so it pulled completely away from me thus hitting the floor. The first thing I'd always say calm the gently caress down. I know when I drop the bike, the adrenaline starts pumping and I can't think straight. Coupled with the endorphins from the exercise of pushing the bike up the hill and then back down, and the effort of trying to lift it, I'm surprised I was in any sort of fit state to ride. I always forget to grab the handlebars, instead I just grab the frame with both hands, one on each side of me. I also forget to put the side stand up (it always falls down on the other side) so I have that moment of panic that it's going to go over the other way. If you can, and you need to, stick it in gear so you don't have to worry about grabbing a brake, it won't roll away. My 125 has given me bad habits when it comes to lifting the bike. It's so little and light but the handlebars give such huge leverage, all I have to do is straddle the bike, hands on the handlebar grips, bend my knees and lift.
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Feb 25, 2009 12:24
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DiZ posted:What state did you do your license test in, this is one of the situations that they drum into you. Yeah I did it in NSW. I know about buffering (although I haven't been thinking about it as much as I need to), but I was already buffering by being on the right lane (away from cars coming out of driveways etc). Should I then change to the left lane coming up to the intersection? I can see how this is going to be safer but its not always safe or practical to be changing lanes all the time. I guess I just need to look ahead more.
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Feb 25, 2009 12:26
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Petekill posted:Is there any particular reason people poo poo on the Suzuki Katanas? Yeah. Lots of reasons. They're heavy. They're slow. They come with suspension that looks at home on a bike half the cost. They covered in expensive plastic, so if you drop one, it's just as expensive as dropping a fancy bike. They're long, and slow steering. Their sole redeeming factor is that their motor is a second gen GSXR motor. Even that is not quite as nice as it sounds, as that generation GSXR wasn't built as a 600. The GSX600F has an under-bored motor. That's to say, it's got 250cc's of dead metal, on an overbuilt bottom end. The GSX750F has more reason to exist. But that bikes motor has been neutered over the years. For anything you might buy a GSX600F, a bandit 600 is better. The new 650 is a different story. :-)
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Feb 25, 2009 15:31
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