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rifles posted:Honestly it's not the learning to ride it, it's the stopping, putting my foot down on a limb and falling over like an idiot, and then not being able to pick it back up because I'm weak You'll adjust to that as well. You won't be able to shave enough weight to make a difference at a stop. What you'd be looking for is a lowering kit, but I promise you that after a month or so of riding, you won't have a problem at stops. Use the correct technique for lifting (with your legs, not your back) and you'll be fine.  It goes without saying that you need to be able to pick up your bike. I can pick up a 500+ pound bike, and I only weight 40 pounds more than you, I'm sure you can figure out that bad boy with a little practice.
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Feb 25, 2009 17:50
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So lets say hypothetically someone got their new FCR39MX carb installed last night and took their new super powered DRZ out this morning to ride around and loops it because this hypothetical person is an idiot with the throttle. Lets also say hypothetically it looks like they bent the peg holder section of the frame and were wondering what the best way to hammer it back into shape was. For instance, it might hypothetically look like: Note, this is all just a hypothetical situation. Looking at it, I'm thinking probably just a block of wood and a hammer? pr0zac fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Feb 25, 2009 |
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Feb 25, 2009 18:45
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Nerobro posted:The new 650 is a different story. :-) The GSX650F is 531 lbs and ~80hp. That is a different story, but in a bad way.
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Feb 25, 2009 19:45
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pr0zac posted:FCR39MX carb installed last night and took their new super powered DRZ out this morning to ride around and loops it I'm considering doing this to my Derz. Sorry you looped yours but would you say you just plain hosed up and it was a stupid mistake or was the power gain so phenomenal that it took you by surprise and bit you in the rear end?
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Feb 25, 2009 19:46
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pr0zac posted:*crunch* MrKatharsis posted:The GSX650F is 531 lbs and ~80hp. That is a different story, but in a bad way. Except you can swap in the bandit 1250 motor with no modifications. And I think the motor has a better torque curve. Oh... and the whole EFI thing. That's nice too. And have you looked at the katana's numbers?
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Feb 25, 2009 19:56
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There is nothing that makes the bike special or exciting. Swap in a 1250 motor? Why not buy a 1250? It weighs significantly more than any Bandit or Katana 600, while producing only a tiny bit more horsepower. Every other Japanese manufacturer has an undisputably superior offering for that segment (beginner sportbike/basic tourer).
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Feb 25, 2009 20:13
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Z3n posted:Personally, I'd probably try these instead. I've gone through a bunch of foamies until I found the ones I really liked (the cheap orange ones), but I'm gonna try out some ones that are this design soon. Walmart usually sells plugs that look very similar to these. Check out the hunting accessory area. Usually about $2.
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Feb 25, 2009 20:33
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Spiffness posted:I'm considering doing this to my Derz. Sorry you looped yours but would you say you just plain hosed up and it was a stupid mistake or was the power gain so phenomenal that it took you by surprise and bit you in the rear end? More the first one with a splash of the second. I had split to the front of a stoplight then started fiddling with the idle adjustment. Glanced up to see the light was green and freaked out about blocking people so I gunned it without thinking. Considering my old carb was misjetted, I gave it way too much power and 12 oclocked the thing. In rush hour traffic. On my way to work. Gave about 200 people a show.  Spent my lunch break taping my tail-light back on and jb-welding a small hole I put in the case. Tonight I get to hammer the frame back into shape and replace the shift lever. Really if you aren't an idiot like me the carb is an awesome upgrade.
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Feb 25, 2009 21:26
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Let this be a lesson to everyone with a DRZ400. Get the drat FCRMX carb already.
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Feb 25, 2009 21:55
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While we are on the topic of the FCR carb, anyone got a suggestion for throttle cables that work a bit better with the thing? My OEM cables are adjusted all the way out and still have a ton of play in them.
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Feb 25, 2009 22:18
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DRZ-E cables work better i think, i think i might have read it on thumpertank, ask there they live and breathe Derzas. While the DRZ crew is here, anyone changed the levers on theres? After riding for a while my hands really start to cramp. Even while fresh i cant get more than 2 fingers to grab the brake, its just too far from the grip. The Zeta ones seem decent and they aren't crazily priced in Australia, i'll grab a set when i can i think. Goddamn i need a FCR
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Feb 25, 2009 22:44
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I heard the Zeta ones work swell, but whats the problem here, do you just have tiny hands? My derz is a little whore for letting people ride it and nobodys ever had issues with the levers (seat height for sure).
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Feb 25, 2009 23:18
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i think i have weird thumbs, (I have a pair of joe rocket gloves that fit great everywhere but don't fit the thumbs and i have a pair of A* gloves that fit my thumbs but not anywhere else). EDIT: That was awkward as hell, and its still hard to understand. When i grab the clutch and my fingers bend up, the yellow line is where my fingers grab the clutch. As you can see it is a little off on the first finger, but the second finger is really far.  To grab the clutch with 2 fingers i have to roll my wrist forward and twist my wrist around my thumb. Which causes my wrist to cramp up. 1 finger grabbing, mostly normal wrist angle.  2 fingers grabbing, you can see how much i need to twist the wrist around  Front brake is nowhere near as bad, and iv had no trouble on my last bike. I just plain cant reach the clutch lever. After looking at those photo's and sitting on my bike for 10 minutes, I have no loving idea why its so awkward to grab. My fingers do reach, but i just cant grab it smoothly. Iv never had this problem on any other bike at all. EDIT2: and Seat height? i can flatfoot both feet
Dubs fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Feb 26, 2009 |
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Feb 26, 2009 00:29
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Took the ZX600 for a 10 mile spin today after work and everything seems to be working great. At highway speeds (60-65) it felt more planted with less of the shifty feeling I was getting before. I am probably going to get about 20 more miles on it then remove the wheels again to inspect the bearings. Once everything checks out I should get my new tires mounted next week. My new rear brake was drat near worthless today. It kinda felt like a pad trying to slow a rotor down that was covered in grease. Being a new pad how long do they usually take to break in?
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Feb 26, 2009 00:36
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Are GSXs known to be clunky going into first gear? My 700 gives a good clunk/jump when put into first. Much more than other bikes I've owned. It gets quite a bit better when it warms up but it never gets really good. It's adjusted properly and shifting into other gears is totally fine and smooth. Also, there is no shudder when letting the clutch out from a stop which would indicate warped plates.
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Feb 26, 2009 02:43
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dietcokefiend posted:My new rear brake was drat near worthless today. It kinda felt like a pad trying to slow a rotor down that was covered in grease. Being a new pad how long do they usually take to break in? New pads typically take roughly 50 miles to break in, depending on your braking habits. You can drag them here and there at speed to speed up the process a bit, just a little pressure on the lever for a couple of seconds and then let off. Bugdrvr, basically all bikes are clunky into first gear. Sometimes bikes shift into first smoother with different oil, or if you pump the clutch a couple of times before you shift into first. It's not really anything to be concerned about.
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Feb 26, 2009 04:08
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Bugdrvr posted:Are GSXs known to be clunky going into first gear? My 700 gives a good clunk/jump when put into first. to say it again, it's normal. :-) All of my bikes do it. And i have a good sample size.
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Feb 26, 2009 04:37
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Where would I find a manual for a 1988 Honda CB450S. The closest I've come to finding one is a pdf of a Portugese one, that may have to suffice. It wasn't sold to the States, so of course there's pretty much fuckall available on ebay.
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Feb 26, 2009 04:57
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Simkin posted:Where would I find a manual for a 1988 Honda CB450S. The closest I've come to finding one is a pdf of a Portugese one, that may have to suffice. It wasn't sold to the States, so of course there's pretty much fuckall available on ebay. I have a CB400 in my manual archive, but nothing for the 450...I also have a friend who would probably help translate a little portugese if you really needed it...
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Feb 26, 2009 08:17
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Dubs posted:When i grab the clutch and my fingers bend up, the yellow line is where my fingers grab the clutch. As you can see it is a little off on the first finger, but the second finger is really far. The place I always go for DRZ stuff has these babies: http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop?action=category&cat_id=70 Looks like getting an adjustable set is going to set you back about $50. Warning: Going to that site can be extremely damaging to ones wallet. How many DRZ riders do we have on CA? Just the 3 of us? Few more and we can justify our own thread. 
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Feb 26, 2009 08:27
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Z3n posted:The only part that I really need to figure out is the brake drum assembly/disassembly. It functions, but will occasionally stick. This can be remedied with a prod on the rear brake pedal, and a bit of rocking back and forth. Any ideas what I should be looking for when I open it up? I don't think that the problem stems from the pedal itself, and I have exactly zero experience poking around the internals of a drum brake, soooo....
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Feb 26, 2009 08:39
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Prince posted:Yeah I did it in NSW. I know about buffering (although I haven't been thinking about it as much as I need to), but I was already buffering by being on the right lane (away from cars coming out of driveways etc). Should I then change to the left lane coming up to the intersection? I can see how this is going to be safer but its not always safe or practical to be changing lanes all the time. I guess I just need to look ahead more. Changing lanes away from things is good if you can safely do it, and honestly with the buffering you pretty much want to be moving around in your lane all the time, move away from the cars in the lanes beside you, away from drive ways and intersections, away from oncoming cars, from anything really, you always want to be aware of everything around you and give yourself the max space you can from everything. It is a little difficult at first, there is alot to think about and do, but the more you ride the more reflex it becomes. I can't contact you via PM or email, but you are more then welcome to come for some rides with the rest of the NSW goons who are in various stages of license, most are learners and p platers so you will be right at home. We often go on nice learner friendly rides and we even have a IRC channel where you can ask tons of questions . Hit me up on gmail or if you want join the irc channels, server is irc.synirc.org and #sydbikes for the channel, and #sydgoons if you want to talk to the other NSW goons who don't ride motobikes. code:DiZ fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Feb 26, 2009 |
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Feb 26, 2009 13:19
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so i got an old virago that sits way too low or something. it doesn't lean left when on the kickstand and is nearly impossible to lift onto the centerstand. it was not lowered on purpose. it sat in a garage for a long long time. what's this mean, bad fork springs, bad shock? not just bad seals i would assume.
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Feb 26, 2009 15:41
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If its all sacked out like that it could mean a few things. One, the springs are so insanely fatigued that they dont hold the bike up, which is probably unlikely. Two, the springs are broken or cut, which is more likely. Or three, the bike sat with something heavy on it forever, and the shocks corroded or somehow jammed with the bike squashed down.
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Feb 26, 2009 16:24
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Simkin posted:The only part that I really need to figure out is the brake drum assembly/disassembly. It functions, but will occasionally stick. This can be remedied with a prod on the rear brake pedal, and a bit of rocking back and forth. E-mailed, but...it didn't seem to work? Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:so i got an old virago that sits way too low or something. it doesn't lean left when on the kickstand and is nearly impossible to lift onto the centerstand. it was not lowered on purpose. it sat in a garage for a long long time. what's this mean, bad fork springs, bad shock? not just bad seals i would assume. In addition to everything Phat Albert covered, I'd check that there's not something wrong with the preload adjuster.
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Feb 26, 2009 16:38
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I've always been afraid of getting a flat at high speeds. I wondered if I could keep the bike in control long enough to get pulled over. It happened to me at about 65 the other day and it was fairly anti-climactic. The bike just gets really hard to lean. At low speeds is when the front end really starts getting unstable. Anyway, now that I got past my fear of flats, I need new tires. I am also extremely broke, but I can scrounge up enough for at least one new tire a month (yes, I know I should do both at once, but I can't afford it) for the next two months. Anyone have any decent on-line places that have good prices? I remember a couple being listed in the old megathreads. I'd like to try and save as much as possible since cash is tight.
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Feb 26, 2009 17:22
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Doctor Zero posted:I've always been afraid of getting a flat at high speeds. I wondered if I could keep the bike in control long enough to get pulled over. What caused the flat in the first place?
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Feb 26, 2009 17:24
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dietcokefiend posted:What caused the flat in the first place? You know, I'm not entirely sure. I see a spot on the tire that looks like it might have had a nail that got thrown out. I was fine for most of the ride home from work before it went suddenly flat, and then after I filled it up at a gas station, I was able to ride home. She's been parked in the garage since, and although I definitely lost about half the pressure, it hasn't gone completely flat again. It's odd. I knew I needed new tires soon anyway, so I'm not going to bother patching. I was just hoping I could have a chance to save it up over the next few months rather than being forced to do it now but oh well. Probably for the best (and safest) anyway.
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Feb 26, 2009 17:28
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Doctor Zero posted:I've always been afraid of getting a flat at high speeds. I wondered if I could keep the bike in control long enough to get pulled over. What sizes? I may have some takeoffs floating around that I could send to you to tide you over so you can get some decent tires.
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Feb 26, 2009 17:29
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Z3n posted:What sizes? I may have some takeoffs floating around that I could send to you to tide you over so you can get some decent tires. She wears big shoes.  150/80HR17 Front - 180/70HR16 Rear
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Feb 26, 2009 17:31
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Doctor Zero posted:She wears big shoes. God drat, you run a taller tire on the front than I run on the rear You can check http://www.swmototires.com/ and ebay. You may be able to find some cheap takeoffs via ebay. You may also have some luck talking to your local dealership, usually they have a big stack of old tires sitting out back. Edit: Fixing URL. Z3n fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Feb 26, 2009 |
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Feb 26, 2009 17:58
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Doctor Zero posted:I've always been afraid of getting a flat at high speeds. I wondered if I could keep the bike in control long enough to get pulled over. http://www.swmototires.com/ this guy is great he's a fast shipper and has some of the best prices on tires I've seen.
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Feb 26, 2009 18:56
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Phat_Albert posted:If its all sacked out like that it could mean a few things. One, the springs are so insanely fatigued that they dont hold the bike up, which is probably unlikely. Two, the springs are broken or cut, which is more likely. Or three, the bike sat with something heavy on it forever, and the shocks corroded or somehow jammed with the bike squashed down.
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Feb 26, 2009 19:26
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:i had the forks apart and the springs weren't broken. i fiddled with the preload adjustments, which is just an air valve thing, it didn't seem to do anything. the shocks do move, they just don't rebound nearly as far as they ought to. springs must just be fatigued, then? i should see if there's a manual that says what their specs are. Ahh, if they're air valve, you need to pump them up. Usually around 8-15PSI, although it should be marked somewhere.
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Feb 26, 2009 19:28
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I have a 99 v-star that hesitates a lot when it's cold -- once it warms up it runs like a dream, but sometimes rolling on a little throttle when it's cold can even stall it. I know the PO had left it sitting for ~8 months, but he said he'd cleaned the carbs afterward. I'm pretty new to small engine maintenance so I'd rather not muck around with taking parts off the engine just yet; anything obvious to look for? I'm already planning to run some sea foam through it since I've seen that suggested here before. This is more of an issue because I want to bring it back out soon and it's still pretty cold around here (bloomington, IN)
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Feb 26, 2009 20:16
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What is a good cleaner one could run through a motorcycle to get remove some amount of internal varnish from the carbs after sitting for a length of time. Can any fuel system cleaners be used or are most useless?
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Feb 26, 2009 20:29
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codewarrior posted:I have a 99 v-star that hesitates a lot when it's cold -- once it warms up it runs like a dream, but sometimes rolling on a little throttle when it's cold can even stall it. I know the PO had left it sitting for ~8 months, but he said he'd cleaned the carbs afterward. I'm pretty new to small engine maintenance so I'd rather not muck around with taking parts off the engine just yet; anything obvious to look for? I'm already planning to run some sea foam through it since I've seen that suggested here before. Sounds like minor clogging, or additional poo poo screwing it up. You could also just leave the choke on for a bit until it stops stalling out. That's what I'd do...enough choke to get it started, and then back it off a bit until the bike is comfortably idling at about 2k, and then once the bike is warmed up (minute or 2) just back the choke all the way off. Seafoam may help. dcf, i'd try running some seafoam through the tank and seeing if things improve.
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Feb 26, 2009 20:55
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Z3n posted:Sounds like minor clogging, or additional poo poo screwing it up. You could also just leave the choke on for a bit until it stops stalling out. That's what I'd do...enough choke to get it started, and then back it off a bit until the bike is comfortably idling at about 2k, and then once the bike is warmed up (minute or 2) just back the choke all the way off. Any ratio I should stick to, or just dump the entire can in with a full tank?
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Feb 26, 2009 21:15
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dietcokefiend posted:What is a good cleaner one could run through a motorcycle to get remove some amount of internal varnish from the carbs after sitting for a length of time. Can any fuel system cleaners be used or are most useless? You might be better off just taking the carbs off and cleaning them. If it's bad enough to cause the bike to run noticibly wrong, it's probably bad enough to warrant special attention. This is, of course, assuming the issue is not one which a carb sync/valve adjustment might resolve, or something symptomatic of a different issue. Or you could go lazy, throw seafoam in the gas tank, and cross your fingers. What issues are you seeing?
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Feb 26, 2009 21:17
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God-damned Pilates posted:You might be better off just taking the carbs off and cleaning them. If it's bad enough to cause the bike to run noticibly wrong, it's probably bad enough to warrant special attention. Nothing so far, runs fine from what I can tell. Might have a bit of a stumble but very minor off idle. I just figure if there was something I could do short of tearing down the carbs that would be nice. I will have the float bowls off when I replace the orings sometime in the future, but I really dont want to go further than that.
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Feb 26, 2009 21:23
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