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Ola posted:Rider to pillion. Each one has their own cellphone with the handsfree set (wire to earplugs) that came with the phone. Phone gets paired to some device, talky talky ensues. All I can find being sold is bluetooth headsets, I don't need that. You could just get some cheap 2way radios; not ideal if you still want to be able to use your phone though.
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Feb 27, 2009 18:55
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Even if the phone is perfectly capable of sending and receiving bluetooth data and perfectly capable of handling talky talky, it doesn't do both to another device. Just internal phone functions to headset.
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Yeah, just trying to make use of the stuff I already have. I'm a bit of a cheap rear end anti-gizmo guy. Proper radios can be really cheap I suppose.
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Feb 27, 2009 19:04
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I'm doing my first oil change on my 1990 Yamaha Radian. I'm following the instructions in the Clymers manual, but I seem to be missing some pieces. I took the oil filter out, and according to the manual there should be a spring as well as a grommet and washer or some such sitting somewhere in the middle of the filter. The union bolt comes out all one piece, and I can see the spring inside that, but other than the filter cover, old filter, and union bolt, there's nothing. No spring or anything. I ran a fork through the old oil in the pan to see if it dropped in there without me noticing, but I can't seem to find anything in there either. Should I be worried? Can I just put it back together the way it was? I'd hate to put it back together, only to find out those missing pieces are important, and waste all that oil.
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Feb 27, 2009 23:28
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My bike jerks quite a bit here and there. When I'm quick off the throttle, slowing down in gear, etc. It feels like a car with worn motor mounts. Is there motor mounts that need to be replaced, could it be the chain/sprocket?
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Feb 27, 2009 23:28
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Nerobro posted:To add to the question, why aren't you riding your bike enough to keep fresh fuel in the carbs? To add to the answer, because everyone yelled at him for trying to learn how to ride when it was 20 degrees outside. He was a smart learner!
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Feb 27, 2009 23:31
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Watommi posted:
Hmm, in the middle of the filter? Could you explain a bit how the filter fits in the housing? My bike has a tube which you thread the cylindrical filter on. The oil gets dumped into the chamber and then sucked through the filter. The lid for the housing has a spring which pushed the filter into place, but it wouldn't really go anywhere without the spring. If it looked like your filter will sit in place without those parts, they could have been missing for ages without problems. If you're skeptical, order them from your favorite parts vendor and install. If the area around the drain plug is clean and you have a clean container you can just drain the oil, put the parts in and refill it. Christoff posted:My bike jerks quite a bit here and there. When I'm quick off the throttle, slowing down in gear, etc. It feels like a car with worn motor mounts. It could definitely be slack in the chain. Is it tightened to spec? To check if it's worn, pull on a link on the middle of the rear sprocket, you shouldn't be able to pull the link out. I doubt motor mounts would feel like that and they don't really wear out other than perhaps rubber bushings rotting. You can always try rocking the engine to feel, but I think the chain is more likely. What bike is it by the way? Early fuel injected bikes (and many current) often have jerky response around zero throttle.
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Feb 28, 2009 00:09
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Ola posted:
Funny you say that. It's a 01 GSXR 750. The first one with FI. I'll definitely check the chain and such. Since it's an 01 I don't imagine the rubber rotting.
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Feb 28, 2009 00:36
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On the same subject as fuel, what is better; rubber fuel hose or clear plastic? I can find the fuel rated rubber hose for my application, however trying to find some 5/16" clear plastic hose has been difficult. Not only that, but everyone I talk to says that the clear plastic stuff isn't fuel rated and turns hard within a couple years. So what's the verdict, is rubber better than the plastic stuff?
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Feb 28, 2009 01:16
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MrZig posted:So what's the verdict, is rubber better than the plastic stuff? A clear line is nice to check that fuel is coming out of the tank, but you really don't want clear plastic anywhere near a heat source. 
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Feb 28, 2009 01:26
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Simkin posted:A clear line is nice to check that fuel is coming out of the tank, but you really don't want clear plastic anywhere near a heat source. Okay good advice - rubber it is. I'm also having a hell of a time trying to find some spring hose clamps heh.
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Feb 28, 2009 01:32
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I think the clear plastic stuff is also very UV sensitive... it yellows out and becomes pretty brittle in sunlight. Not good for a motorcycle 
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Feb 28, 2009 01:35
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MrZig posted:Okay good advice - rubber it is. I'm also having a hell of a time trying to find some spring hose clamps heh. Don't bother. They're way more trouble than they're worth. Just find some regular old screw adjustable hose clamps - they're less than a buck at Crappy Tire - and replace ever clamp you take off with them.
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Feb 28, 2009 01:46
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Simkin posted:Don't bother. They're way more trouble than they're worth. Just find some regular old screw adjustable hose clamps - they're less than a buck at Crappy Tire - and replace ever clamp you take off with them. Eh, I managed to find some. I'd rather just have the spring type as I don't have to worry about over-tightening them. All set to clean my carbs tomorrow and get this fuel system up and running. I'm going against Nerobro's advice and I bought this high flowing metal filter:  By 'high flowing' I mean I can blow through it without as much trouble as the other filter's I tried. It seems to flow air really well, so it's probably not the best at 'filtering' but it'll be good enough without restricting too much flow. If it does end up restricting flow, I'll simply remove it. No harm done. I just didn't feel comfortable only relying on my carb's filters. Edit: added last sentence. MrZig fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Feb 28, 2009 |
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Feb 28, 2009 02:20
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They make motorcycle specific fuel filters. You might look at those if you really want to do it. At least carry a spare length of fuel line with you. Getting stranded because of fuel issues blows. That's experience talking.
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Feb 28, 2009 05:32
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Watommi posted:I'm doing my first oil change on my 1990 Yamaha Radian. I'm following the instructions in the Clymers manual, but I seem to be missing some pieces. Sounds like someone lost your spring and washer. I've almost thrown those washers out a million times. They get stuck to the filter and end up in the trash. The springs would probably be harder to misplace, but I'm sure where there's a will... I think you would be ok running without them for a bit. The spring just holds the filter forward so it sits on that tube in the proper place. There's not a whole lot trying to move the filter so it will probably stay there anyway. Just put it back together the way it is and order them between now and your next oil change.
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Feb 28, 2009 05:38
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Nerobro posted:They make motorcycle specific fuel filters. You might look at those if you really want to do it. At least carry a spare length of fuel line with you. Getting stranded because of fuel issues blows. That's experience talking. The only 'motorcycle specific' filters I found were $30 pingle ones. I don't see how this one will be any different. However, I will carry a spare hose with me at all times.
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Feb 28, 2009 07:16
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Z3n posted:Sorry, I disagree. It's 3$ to pick up a bottle.. Happened to be in Murray's today and did a price check. A 16 oz. bottle of Seafoam is $9. Carb cleaner is $2.50. Yeah, gently caress that.
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Feb 28, 2009 08:15
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What is a good durable paint one could use on a bike with cracked fairings and other various repairs?
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Feb 28, 2009 23:56
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Truck bed liner?
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Mar 1, 2009 00:26
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kdc67 posted:Happened to be in Murray's today and did a price check. A 16 oz. bottle of Seafoam is $9. And $7 at menards. I still stand by being able to have the carbs cleaned by the time one made a trip to menards and back. :-)
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Mar 1, 2009 01:37
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Nerobro posted:And $7 at menards. I still stand by being able to have the carbs cleaned by the time one made a trip to menards and back. :-) Can old carbs be cleaned without replacing all of the various seals and gaskets though? IAMKOREA posted:Truck bed liner? But does it look good when completed? I want to fill in some of the cracks with filler and get it looking better than its current condition but not worse looking 
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Mar 1, 2009 01:59
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dietcokefiend posted:But does it look good when completed? I want to fill in some of the cracks with filler and get it looking better than its current condition but not worse looking I think so but I can see how people would disagree. I want to do it to my bike. 
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Mar 1, 2009 02:13
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IAMKOREA posted:I think so but I can see how people would disagree. I want to do it to my bike. Holy poo poo that looks loving badass  Is bedliner any easier to apply than paint in terms of prep?
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Mar 1, 2009 02:15
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dietcokefiend posted:Can old carbs be cleaned without replacing all of the various seals and gaskets though?
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Mar 1, 2009 02:19
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dietcokefiend posted:Holy poo poo that looks loving badass I don't know anything about it but I don't think there's very much in the way of prep at all. For trucks you apparently just clean and scuff the surface. What makes it attractive to me is that since it's so thick it should hide little imperfections really well, so there's no need to get crazy with sanding after you've fixed stuff like cracks in the fairing.
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Mar 1, 2009 02:20
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I love the matte black look of the bedliner, but how much weight does that add to the bike?
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Mar 1, 2009 02:24
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The page on ninja250.org that I stole that picture from says about 4 pounds.
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Mar 1, 2009 02:30
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Nerobro posted:I can't say "always." But I've never had to replace actual carb parts unless the PO effed something up. And I've cleaned and put a dozen sets of carbs into service. If you had carb bowls leaking, could it be something as simple as a mis-seated bowl oring? On mine the 2 carbs on the side the bike leans to leak. Currently not a big leak, just a small 6-8 drop puddle under bike each night. I jam some paper towel up there to soak it up so it doesnt drip on my garage floor. When my friend inspected the carbs he mentioned they were externally very clean as if they had been cleaned/rebuilt recently. Probably coincides with the drat carb boot springs that were missing or boot that was wedged into the airbox. fuckers 
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Mar 1, 2009 02:35
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IAMKOREA posted:The page on ninja250.org that I stole that picture from says about 4 pounds. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Why_truck_bedliner_is_the_best_paint_for_your_bike The stuff used in that guide looks more like wrinkle paint then the super rubbery bedliner I was thinking about. Has anyone followed up with what it looks like a few months down the road?
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Mar 1, 2009 02:38
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You sure it's the float bowls? YOu have a more modern bike, with float bowls that need to actually seal. If it's just a few drops, it's usually a float valve, not a bowl gasket.
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Mar 1, 2009 02:39
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Nerobro posted:You sure it's the float bowls? YOu have a more modern bike, with float bowls that need to actually seal. If it's just a few drops, it's usually a float valve, not a bowl gasket. If that is the case, is the repair/fix any cheaper? Is it a mating surface that is gunked up or something that is broken and needs a part ordered for? Currently it leaks from the sides of the bowl close to the front (engine side) of the carbs, down the bowl, and collects on the nipple until the drop is big enough to fall. EDIT: be back in a while, off to walmart for bedliner spray I go :iamafag: dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Mar 1, 2009 |
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Mar 1, 2009 02:44
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Pulled the carb assembly off to find the source of the leak and its coming from the vent/drain junction between carb #1 and #2. There are orings on each side of the pipe where it T's and comes out for the drain tube. Does fuel usually sit that high though? To replace the orings on that pipe I would be signing a death sentence for the carbs being synced. Would the float valve be the cause of that leak still? EDIT: From what I understand fuel level reaching that height should never happen under normal operation, that can leak all it wants if it has to, orings dont matter there. The fuel I saw was probably from flopping the carbs around as I was removing them from the bike. Took the bowl off on the offending carb and there is a 1cm section where the oring is just gone. If the float valve was gummed up and the level was too high, gas would come up to the level of the bowl seal and leak out. Should I be looking to clean the valve or replacing it? dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Mar 1, 2009 |
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Mar 1, 2009 06:35
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Uh... if it's the vent. No, no fuel should be coming from that. If there's fuel coming from that, there are other problems you need to address. Likely your float valves are still screwed up in one way or another.
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Mar 1, 2009 07:19
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Nerobro posted:Uh... if it's the vent. No, no fuel should be coming from that. If there's fuel coming from that, there are other problems you need to address. Likely your float valves are still screwed up in one way or another. I have the bowl off, float assembly off, and valve out... what am I looking for? There is some fine sediment in the bowl, maybe 4-5 fine specks of something near the tip of the valve. Will anything on the tip cause sealing problems? Can this be resolved by cleaning or do I need to replace the valve?
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Mar 1, 2009 07:33
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Clean the tip of the needle. if you're smart you'll pull the seat out too and clean it with a qtip or something similar.
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Mar 1, 2009 07:40
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Nerobro posted:Clean the tip of the needle. if you're smart you'll pull the seat out too and clean it with a qtip or something similar. The seat can actually come out? It looked like the seat was a brass piece pressed into the body of the carb.
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Mar 1, 2009 07:44
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Typically they're just "kinda stuck" in there. The seat has an o-ring on it that makes it hard to remove.
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Mar 1, 2009 07:52
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Nerobro posted:Typically they're just "kinda stuck" in there. The seat has an o-ring on it that makes it hard to remove. None of the Kawasaki microfiche list the seat as a separate part from the carb body or a seal. For reference of what I am working with here are shots of my carb and float valve. Is the tip carbide or rubber? http://www.t3flange.com/floatvalve.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/floatvalveseat.jpg Pictures would probably be clearer if I was using a tripod.
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Mar 1, 2009 07:59
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It's not always removable. Some carbs dont' even have removable jets! Ponder that one for a minute. You have a rubber tipped needle. Needles are like $5 each. Check out crc2onlinecatalog.com They may need replacing. Still break out the qtips and clean up inside the seats.
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Mar 1, 2009 08:46
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| # ? May 16, 2024 20:19 |
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Nerobro posted:It's not always removable. Some carbs dont' even have removable jets! Ponder that one for a minute. You have a rubber tipped needle. Needles are like $5 each. Check out crc2onlinecatalog.com They may need replacing. Still break out the qtips and clean up inside the seats. Are aftermarket carb parts ever decent? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWA...sQ5fAccessories OEM part is about 26 each.
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Mar 1, 2009 08:59
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