|
Just got to work and don't have any resources with me. Ridden a bike now for a cumulative time of about 6 months, a YZF600R. I was out on Saturday and on the way back it started revving instantly high after switching up to 3/4/5 after applying even a small amount of throttle, way higher than normal. This was while I was on my way home and I was too tired to check about it when I got in. It's still doing it at the minute. When I had the bike in for a service last year I mentioned to the guy that it felt a bit like an on/off switch, loads of play and then a miniscule amount of lever action to engage it. Time for a new clutch cable? Or maybe just an oil change? I can't actually pinpoint what I think it is. The clutch cable slackening and needing replacing would have the opposite effect, as in, applying earlier instead of a delay. What happens is I'll pull away and first and second are fine. I'll switch up into third and it will accellerate normally and then suddenly jump up 3-4k but with no increase in actual power, which says to me that the clutch plates are slipping, almost like I'm bringing the clutch in. I'll come off the throttle and roll it back on and it'll be just fine. kcer fucked around with this message at 12:16 on Mar 2, 2009 |
#
?
Mar 2, 2009 10:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 22:50 |
|
|
Definitely sounds like a slipping clutch. I don't think an oil change is going to get you out of this one. You didn't put full synthetic in, did you?
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2009 14:39
|
|
|
Haha no I can't imagine so. This only flared up on Saturday, never had it before. Its last oil change was just before I bought it and if I stick to the milage recommendation I've still got a bit of time before it needs another change. I probably shouldn't be riding it atm either, right?
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2009 15:13
|
|
|
Could be the clutch, it could be the oil that the PO used, and it could be a clutch cable adjustment. Since you mentioned the engagement point is right at the end of beginning of the clutch pull I would think that is what is causing you problems. Your lever isn't fully disengaging the clutch when you let it out. Normally there are two places you can adjust the clutch cable, at the lever and at the other end of the cable, often times inside the flywheel cover. I'd look into how to adjust the flywheel end of the cable, as I had a bike that was doing virtually the same thing for me. It seemed that the flywheel side adjustment helped me move the engagement point back further in the clutch pull. I would never trust a POs given oil change date, and it might be worth it to go ahead and change the oil just to rule that out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2009 16:09
|
|
|
My bike is covered in 6" of snow without a cover. This isn't going to hurt anything is it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2009 16:40
|
|
|
Endless Mike posted:My bike is covered in 6" of snow without a cover. This isn't going to hurt anything is it? Apart from surface rust and maybe some water here and there, not really. But why would you leave a defenseless child out in the snow like that? 
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2009 16:47
|
|
|
The snow wont hurt anything. The water will though when the snow melts.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2009 16:49
|
|
|
I have a 1981 Yamaha xs650 that runs well, but has some electrical trouble. It doesn't charge the battery while riding. A guy near me is selling an 1978 Yamaha xs750 for next to nothing. Can I use parts from the '78 on the '81 to fix the problem? Thanks for the help!
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2009 21:52
|
|
|
Dobutful. And define "next to nothing". Fixing a charging system is a sub $200 fix as it stands. On the expensive side. Typically I can get bikes charging again for under $50.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2009 21:53
|
|
|
Ola posted:Apart from surface rust and maybe some water here and there, not really. But why would you leave a defenseless child out in the snow like that? Some of us are horrible parents. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 02:47
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Dobutful. And define "next to nothing". Fixing a charging system is a sub $200 fix as it stands. On the expensive side. Typically I can get bikes charging again for under $50. I've tried a whole lot of different things when it comes to the charging system. He wants 400 for it, I haven't seen it yet and don't have pictures yet.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 04:55
|
|
|
hoho`win posted:I've tried a whole lot of different things when it comes to the charging system. What have you done? The charging system is pretty much a stator, a rectifier, and some wires. Oh, well, and a battery. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 05:16
|
|
|
100 Years in Iraq posted:Some of us are horrible parents. I just tell social services that it builds character. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 17:50
|
|
|
Has anyone done much riding in the NoVA/DC area? I might be moving to Arlington/Alexandria, and wondering how conducive to motorbike or moped the area is. Wasn't planning on using the Interstate unless I'm going to a different city, so just surface-street traffic. Aside from the motorbike issue, curious if it's impossible to get around with a moped. One poster in the Tourism subforum mentioned that the folks he knows with scooters/mopeds don't leave their basic neighborhood with them because even on surface streets traffic is bad, and you can't park mopeds bicycle-style in DC and thus have to pay for street parking anyway. Confirm/deny?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 19:22
|
|
|
TapTheForwardAssist posted:and you can't park mopeds bicycle-style in DC and thus have to pay for street parking anyway. Confirm/deny? Aren't those things as big as a BMX bike and weigh about 5 pounds? Why in the world would you want to leave on on the street?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 19:30
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Aren't those things as big as a BMX bike and weigh about 5 pounds? Why in the world would you want to leave on on the street? Yeah, why not wheelie into the office and stoppie at your desk! 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 19:39
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Aren't those things as big as a BMX bike and weigh about 5 pounds? Why in the world would you want to leave on on the street? Because you can't take it into a pub? (plus closer to 100lbs. Motorised bicycles are around 60, but mopeds weigh a good Natalie Portman or more)
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 21:09
|
|
|
TapTheForwardAssist posted:Because you can't take it into a pub? No, I meant why would the government even think street parking a moped would a good idea versus letting you park on a sidewalk and chaining it up. I didn't mean why you would want to leave it outside. I hate parking my motorcycle in some places because I know the day will come when someone will knock it over. With a moped, it'd be knocked and driven over before Soccer Mom even notices a thing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 21:26
|
|
|
PlasticSun posted:I just tell social services that it builds character. Is that a Dakar? Those things require inclement weather and abuse as part of their regular scheduled maintenance.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 22:38
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:Is that a Dakar? Yeah it's a Dakar, and I follow the maintenance schedule to the letter
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 22:50
|
|
|
PlasticSun posted:Yeah it's a Dakar, and I follow the maintenance schedule to the letter There's one I see on the freeway 'round here every so often. It looks factory perfect without even a spec of dust on it. It just makes me sad.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 23:39
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:There's one I see on the freeway 'round here every so often. It looks factory perfect without even a spec of dust on it. It just makes me sad. I had to laugh when someone had a desmosedici at the track and looked over at me and was like "I bet you hate the idea of that being on the track, huh...". No, the track is where it belongs. I sat and grinned like an idiot listening to it go by.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2009 23:55
|
|
|
I just bought a 2001 SV650s, in blue, with 8,500 miles on it. I love it to death, but it's got one blemish; the PO put on some sort of fake carbon fiber tank pad on the front of the tank (in front of the gas cap). This has begun to peel off and underneath is... ...nasty. I'd call is adhesive residue, but this isn't your standard sticky grime. This is caked-on, multicolored, thick, hardened stuff. Does anybody have any tips on getting this crap off? I've tried WD-40 already, as was the suggestion of a few of my friends. The WD-40 was so ineffective that I swear I heard the goop laugh. Dab a rag in some paint thinner and scrub away, maybe? I'll post pictures of it when it's light outside tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 01:36
|
|
|
TheUltimateCool posted:I just bought a 2001 SV650s, in blue, with 8,500 miles on it. I love it to death, but it's got one blemish; the PO put on some sort of fake carbon fiber tank pad on the front of the tank (in front of the gas cap). This has begun to peel off and underneath is... Have you tried Goo Gone? I haven't found anything Goo Gone and muscle couldn't take off. On the plus side, your tank will smell like oranges.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 01:44
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:Goo Gone This will work. You don't need to post pictures. This will work.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 02:24
|
|
|
Kerosene will also probably work, however it's much more dangerous as the rags you used will be extremely flammable afterward and cannot be washed in your home washing machine. Really the only safe thing to do with them is burn them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 02:28
|
|
|
`Nemesis posted:Kerosene will also probably work, however it's much more dangerous as the rags you used will be extremely flammable afterward and cannot be washed in your home washing machine. Really the only safe thing to do with them is burn them. Don't ever wash anything that's been near kerosene in your laundry if you don't want everything you wash afterward to smell like it forever. I got a splash of kero on the finger of the GFs glove when I was filling the shop heater up last year and then tried to wash it. Remember, this was only a drop or two. The washing machine never, ever, ever stopped stinking of kero. It made me really glad it was a rental and that I was moving out shortly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 02:36
|
|
|
TapTheForwardAssist posted:Has anyone done much riding in the NoVA/DC area? I might be moving to Arlington/Alexandria, and wondering how conducive to motorbike or moped the area is. Wasn't planning on using the Interstate unless I'm going to a different city, so just surface-street traffic.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 03:06
|
|
|
Sweet, thanks guys. Goo Gone will be the very next thing I try, although I sort of feel like inviting the engineers at Goo Gone over to take a look at this stuff. If it pulls it off I will be thoroughly impressed. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 03:59
|
|
|
TheUltimateCool posted:Sweet, thanks guys. Goo Gone will be the very next thing I try, although I sort of feel like inviting the engineers at Goo Gone over to take a look at this stuff. If it pulls it off I will be thoroughly impressed. I have the same crap on my bike, goo gone works but remember to also use their patented formula elbow grease.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2009 04:27
|
|
|
So I need a new rear tire. My front has a decent amount of meat on them but I assume I should just change them both out? I've heard recommendations for Metzler M3 for Front & Rear and a Pilot Power on the front and a Pilot Road 2 on the back. This is just for normal riding. Won't be going to any tracks or dropping knees really. I also got some front/rear motorcycle stands. I assumed it's cheapest just to take the wheels off and bring them into a shop? Any advice there? Should I order the tires online? I assume the shop might give me a better overall deal if I get the tires/mounting done there. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 00:08
|
|
|
Christoff posted:So I need a new rear tire. My front has a decent amount of meat on them but I assume I should just change them both out? No need to change both out, mounting matching tires is prudent if you don't have a good understanding of tire types just yet, and I'd just replace the rear the same thing that's one the front. They'll both be done at the same time, and I'd move to some sort of sport touring tire at that point (PR2s would be my tire of choice).
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 01:05
|
|
|
Didn't really get many responses in the sv650 thread. Hey dudes. Need some help. Whenever I get my bike up to a constant 85mph, which is around 6 grand rpm, it'll go for a minute or two and then lose power all of a sudden. Then when my heart is good and racing it lets out this HUGE backfire and then goes right back to having all throttle control. Ideas? Seems to happen with the bike around 6grand in any gear. Guess I should start with the spark plugs etc?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 01:10
|
|
|
BRAKE LIGHT ISSUE Bike is a 2007 Triumph Speed Triple (with stock LED tails) So I went for my first ride today and while inspecting the bike at a light, I noticed that I don't have any brake lights (I know I should have checked before I left). The tails work fine but don't light up more when I brake. Over the winter I relocated the turn signals and plate light but never touched the brake light. After loving with it more, it actually appears that the brake lights are ON all the time (but I can't verify that). I've checked the connections and they seem to be okay. Any ideas? Could a LED bad cause the brake light to stay on all the time? EDIT winner VVVV cmorrow001 fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Mar 6, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 01:27
|
|
|
cmorrow001 posted:BRAKE LIGHT ISSUE Stab in the dark, but on my bike, I have a little adjuster on the lever for the rear brake. I can turn it in or out so the light comes on with more or less travel of the rear brake lever. I can conceivably turn it so far that the brake light is always on.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 01:37
|
|
|
cmorrow001 posted:BRAKE LIGHT ISSUE Sounds like you accidentally caught and somehow cut (crushed, whatever) the line that carries 12v to the brake light LEDs somewhere. That'd be my guess. Pull the connectors off and jump them manually and see if the light goes on. Check the wires going into the brake light with a multimeter, what readings do you get? If you're getting 12v on both, then you need to figure out what's keeping the circuit closed, if you're getting 12v on one, and nothing on the other, even when you jump the connectors, you probably sliced the wire during installation.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 01:39
|
|
|
cmorrow001 posted:BRAKE LIGHT ISSUE FIXED: My roommate suggested that since they seemed to be on all the time, a sensor was probably stuck. I checked it out and removed my rear brake sensor (connecting rod to lever) and it turned off. I adjusted it towards the very end of the season last year so the pedal sits a bit lower, must have moved a bit when it got cold. Thanks Uthor and Z3N cmorrow001 fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Mar 6, 2009 |
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 01:44
|
|
|
Captain Apollo posted:Didn't really get many responses in the sv650 thread. I'd start with plugs. And pray. Something about this screams ignitior unit to me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 11:15
|
|
|
Captain Apollo posted:Didn't really get many responses in the sv650 thread. What year SV? Carbureted or Fuel Injected?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 16:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 22:50 |
|
|
Okay, quick question. My wife and I are looking at upgrading what we ride this summer. I've found a bike I'm interested in, that's all well and good. She's found one she may really like, but she doesn't have the same fascination with hugely loud bikes that many riders do. The previous owner of the bike has "Vance and Hines Straight shot pipes," which I guess are fairly loud? I don't know poo poo about this stuff. Would the gods be deeply offended if we were to put something a little more stock on, and if we do, what's it going to set us back? What are the chances of swapping the parts with another bike? I seriously have no idea on any of this stuff. I'd love to learn more, but time is always the issue. Anyhow, fill me in here. Oh, and the bike she's looking at is a shadow spirit 750. Actually, here, I'll just post the craigslist ad. What you see there is all we currently know about the bike: http://desmoines.craigslist.org/mcy/1062529414.html
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2009 17:19
|
|
