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Nerobro posted:awesome help Thanks again for the pointers on troubleshooting this. The resistance between the legs doesn't see too terribly off. A-B: 1.1 Ω A-C: 0.8 Ω B-C: 0.7 Ω I then tested each leg to the chassis and got the following. From what you said, this is probably bad. A: 1.0 Ω B: 0.7 Ω C: 0.5 Ω I then fired the bike up and tested the AC current coming out of the stator. Here's what I got there. Not good either: A-B: 15v A-C: 8v B-C: 10v I also got similar readings going from each leg to the chassis. I would assume that since it is supposed to be isolated that there should be 0v when doing this, correct? So unless I'm interpreting something wrong, then it's new stator time. 
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Mar 11, 2009 00:55
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As I was putting my new choke cable on today which ended up being a horrible idea that failed, I noticed a wire harness that connected to the clutch handle pivot point. What on the bike would care that the clutch is being used and need a signal during that time?
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Mar 11, 2009 04:54
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dietcokefiend posted:As I was putting my new choke cable on today which ended up being a horrible idea that failed, I noticed a wire harness that connected to the clutch handle pivot point. What on the bike would care that the clutch is being used and need a signal during that time? The safety switch that won't let you start your bike in gear without the clutch being held.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:00
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dietcokefiend posted:As I was putting my new choke cable on today which ended up being a horrible idea that failed, I noticed a wire harness that connected to the clutch handle pivot point. What on the bike would care that the clutch is being used and need a signal during that time? On some bikes it's a safety feature so that you cant start the bike without the clutch lever pulled in.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:00
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dietcokefiend posted:As I was putting my new choke cable on today which ended up being a horrible idea that failed, I noticed a wire harness that connected to the clutch handle pivot point. What on the bike would care that the clutch is being used and need a signal during that time? It checks and makes sure you have the clutch in if the bike is in gear and the kickstand is down. It varies slightly depending on the bike and how they design it but that's the most typical. It's designed to prevent you from taking off with the kickstand down.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:01
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Bob Sapp Please posted:I then tested each leg to the chassis and got the following. From what you said, this is probably bad. The low voltage readings are due to power leaking out the stator into the chassis. A new stator is ~150. I rewound my stator for $20. ;-) the choice is up to you. I will say, that in the future, I will always rewind my stators. I can't justify spending $150 on something that just takes me a couple hours to do, and I end up with a better part in the end.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:31
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quote:As I was putting my new choke cable on today which ended up being a horrible idea that failed, Wait, how did you fail at replacing a choke cable? Also what's this about your chronic lying, Nerobro?
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Mar 11, 2009 05:34
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Z3n posted:It checks and makes sure you have the clutch in if the bike is in gear and the kickstand is down. It varies slightly depending on the bike and how they design it but that's the most typical. It's designed to prevent you from taking off with the kickstand down. Can you disable it? I like starting my bike before I put on my gear. Wouldn't mind skipping having to lean over and pull the clutch in with all my stuff in my hands.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:37
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Christoff posted:Can you disable it? I like starting my bike before I put on my gear. Wouldn't mind skipping having to lean over and pull the clutch in with all my stuff in my hands. I think if you disconnect the connector and hotwire the leads together forming a closed circuit, it should do what you want it to do.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:38
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Christoff posted:Can you disable it? I like starting my bike before I put on my gear. Wouldn't mind skipping having to lean over and pull the clutch in with all my stuff in my hands. What? Maybe I'm odd, but I always keep my bike in neutral when I'm at home. LOL WEST TEXAS NO HILLS.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:41
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Captain Apollo posted:What? Maybe I'm odd, but I always keep my bike in neutral when I'm at home. LOL WEST TEXAS NO HILLS. My bike won't start in neutral unless you pull the clutch in.
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Mar 11, 2009 05:45
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So put it in neutral, pull the clutch in, start the bike, and then walk away. How is this difficult? 
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Mar 11, 2009 09:42
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Simkin posted:So put it in neutral, pull the clutch in, start the bike, and then walk away. How is this difficult? 
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Mar 11, 2009 10:26
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How did that happen exactly?
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Mar 11, 2009 10:42
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he t-boned a soccer mom at highway speed or something. he's been the subject of a number of threads now i think.
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Mar 11, 2009 11:38
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Simkin posted:So put it in neutral, pull the clutch in, start the bike, and then walk away. How is this difficult? I'd like to skip that part. I usually leave it in neutral as I park the rear tire against a curb. Or it's in the garage.
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Mar 11, 2009 15:38
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Christoff posted:I'd like to skip that part. I usually leave it in neutral as I park the rear tire against a curb. Or it's in the garage. Warning: I don't recommend doing this. But if you really want to do it: Just look at the connector. Jump it with a piece of wire, and wrap the entire thing in electrical tape. You don't want to cut the connector and solder it in case you want to sell the bike one day.
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Mar 11, 2009 15:50
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What would be a safe way to test if the system is still working? I normally check for neutral then start the bike while I finish putting on my helmet and gloves without using the clutch. Would it only work with stand down, in gear, and not using clutch?
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Mar 11, 2009 15:55
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Another question about my 1982 Honda CM250C... I need to replace the air filter. When I got it, the air filter was hilariously dirty, and a mouse had made a nest around it. The carbs were also extremely dirty. They were so bad that I had a friend of mine, who cleans carbs all the time, clean them for me, and he said that "they were by far, the dirtiest things he had ever had the misfortune of cleaning." So, I need a new air filter. I can't find one for my bike, though. The closest I could find was this: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HA-0850 ...which goes to a CM450, not a 250. I have no idea how to figure out if this will fit my bike. I know the opening into the intake is two inches, and that I'll probably lose the airbox altogether because it's an ugly piece of poo poo, so I will just have the air filter there, no box. I think I might also need to make the filter potrude slightly sideways from the intake, not straight out - do they make elbows or something for filters? I don't know the terminology.
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Mar 11, 2009 16:32
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I'm not going to start a whole new thread for this. I have a 2000 Honda CBR600 with about 21k miles on it. This past year it had been having a lot of problems starting up so I finally had the carbs professionally cleaned in Nov or Dec. Worked perfect after that up until Sunday. It started up just fine, warmed up, I rode it around for probably 2 hours with a couple stops where it would start back up just fine. I was riding back to the storage place where I keep it and got stuck at a decently steep hill at a red light. First gear, clutch in, pressing on the back brake so I don't roll into the people behind me. I see/hear the RPMs start to slowly drop and it just stalls out. Start it back up, it starts for maybe a second then stalls out. I pushed it up the hill and into a parking lot. It continues to start up for a second then immediately stall out. Had a lot of gas, battery charge was good. I called AAA to come pick me up and after waiting 20 minutes for them, decided to try again except this time using the method I would do if I was trying to start it cold by using the choke. Full choke, bitch started right up, RPMs stayed constant so I dropped the choke all the way off and it stayed on. What on earth happened here. Any ideas? Dirty gas? When they cleaned the carbs they did an oil change so it wouldn't have anything to do with that.
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Mar 11, 2009 16:34
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dietcokefiend posted:
The bike should cut out if it detects that you've got the bike in gear, and are letting the clutch out. As other people have said, it can also stop you from starting the bike if it's not in neutral, that one's a little more hit and miss, depending on the make of the bike. FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:
Can't be much help here, but it looks like that was the predecessor to the Rebel 250...maybe find a cheap rebel 250 filter and see if it fits? You could also just purchase a generic foam Uni filter that will clamp over the mouth of the carb. iroc_dis posted:
I'd guess dirty gas and wouldn't worry too much about it. Check your oil level, and check your battery voltage with the bike at charging RPM, but my first thought would be you got some crap in your gas. Were you running it on reserve or on?
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Mar 11, 2009 16:45
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about clutch test
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Christoff posted:I'd like to skip that part. I usually leave it in neutral as I park the rear tire against a curb. Or it's in the garage. Just echoing what Z3n was saying. There's safety systems on bikes for a reason. Next you're going to be looking to defeat the kickstand killswitch, or something equally dubious.
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Mar 11, 2009 18:27
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You mean ALL the systems I deactivated on my bike? :-)
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Mar 11, 2009 18:41
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Nerobro posted:You mean ALL the systems I deactivated on my bike? :-) I'm just gonna go with your chronic lying making you say that. Besides, you have too much metal in your body for me to take your safety advice seriously...  Edit: I will admit, I disabled the kickstand safety switch on one of my bikes. It doesn't have a kickstand, though, so I think it's ok.
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Mar 11, 2009 18:54
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ChlamydiaJones posted:Dumb mechanical/electrical question; ok. I am truly a dump person. When the cop pulled me over for no rear lights I looked back there and saw none. In my grand and glorious wisdom though I'd hung a leather bag to hold my ether can in the center. No it wasn't covering up the brake light/running light, but I got it in my head that the rear running lights were fed from the turn indicator housings. Well that my friend is simply not true. The running LIGHT is a dual filament bulb housed in the BRAKE LIGHT THINGIE goddamnit. I have no idea how I convinced myself that the turn indicators were where the running lights were located. Wow. One new bulb, problem solved. So where exactly is my fuse box?
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Mar 11, 2009 21:42
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ChlamydiaJones posted:So where exactly is my fuse box? Depends. Most bikes I've owned, they've been under the seat or behind a sidepanel.
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Mar 11, 2009 21:48
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I always solder the kickstand sensor wires, future owners be damned. Although on my new bike that has a stand indicator I wired it so the light still works but it will never cut the ignition... win win.
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Mar 12, 2009 03:18
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Simkin posted:Just echoing what Z3n was saying. There's safety systems on bikes for a reason. Next you're going to be looking to defeat the kickstand killswitch, or something equally dubious. I understand the purpose but I don't see why it won't let me start the drat thing in neutral without the clutch being in.
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Mar 12, 2009 03:20
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Christoff posted:I understand the purpose but I don't see why it won't let me start the drat thing in neutral without the clutch being in. In case you have a false neutral.
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Mar 12, 2009 03:27
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Christoff posted:I understand the purpose but I don't see why it won't let me start the drat thing in neutral without the clutch being in. Because it's a hell of alot simpler to wire 1 circuit to not left you take off without the clutch in at all, than it is to wire a multiple circuits to let you only only to start with the couch out in neutral.
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Mar 12, 2009 03:31
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I think Z3n and Dubs have valid points. The V-Strom has the same 'need clutch in even in neutral to start' thing that you're mentioning, and I was absolutely flummoxed by it, coming from my bike, where it doesn't care at all one way or the other. I had to pull the manual out for that one. 
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Mar 12, 2009 03:33
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Dubs posted:Because it's a hell of alot simpler to wire 1 circuit to not left you take off without the clutch in at all, than it is to wire a multiple circuits to let you only only to start with the couch out in neutral. One of the bikes I've owned would let you start with the clutch out as long as you were in neutral. I don't recall which one it was though...maybe the Kawasaki ZX-6E? I always thought that was a little strange as there was zero promise that it was actually in neutral...
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Mar 12, 2009 03:38
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My EX250 lets the engine start with clutch out in neutral, so I think its just a large case of YMMV. EDIT: As an interesting side note if I have the clutch in when I turn power on with the key, I have to pump the clutch to get it to start otherwise.
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Mar 12, 2009 04:02
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My Kawi ZR-7S doesn't care two shits whether the clutch is in or not, as long as I'm in neutral. Then again, I think there's a Kawasaki specific system to prevent false neutrals.
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Mar 12, 2009 04:22
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Yup, same with my Kawasaki EN500. My buddies 70-something (78?) Honda Hawk works that way, too.
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Mar 12, 2009 04:50
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anyone know what kind of poo poo i should use to re-glue a vinyl seat cover to the edge of a seat pan? the italians never heard of rivets i guess.
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Mar 12, 2009 04:54
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contact cement.
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Mar 12, 2009 05:37
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Gorilla glue? Heavy duty double sided tape?
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Mar 12, 2009 13:11
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Simkin posted:My Kawi ZR-7S doesn't care two shits whether the clutch is in or not, as long as I'm in neutral. Then again, I think there's a Kawasaki specific system to prevent false neutrals. I think you're referring to Kawasaki's "positive neutral finder." Everyone I know with a Kawasaki hits a false neutral from time to time.
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Mar 12, 2009 13:49
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:anyone know what kind of poo poo i should use to re-glue a vinyl seat cover to the edge of a seat pan? the italians never heard of rivets i guess. Honestly I'd drill the leather and pan and rivet it anyway. You can get black rivets. Or are you going the authenticity route?
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Mar 12, 2009 15:13
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