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I've had really good luck with 3M Super Weatherstrip adhesive. It's basically super strong contact cement. That and some of those big metal paper clip things to hold it in place while it dries.
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Mar 12, 2009 15:27
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| # ? May 15, 2024 22:52 |
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*shines Nerobro light on cloud* Got my bike out for the first ride for two months and it's acting up in the mid range. 1st and 2nd it will pull through the revs no problem but when I hit 5-6000 in 3rd it quits making power and sounds a bit like hitting a rev limiter. I can go through the band at lower throttle, this was at or near WOT. It "feels" like it's running lean but I don't know for sure. Raining a bit too much right now, so will just theorycraft a little bit. I cleaned and reoiled my filter, maybe I used too much oil? Wouldn't it act exactly like that if the air is restricted? There's no popping or backfiring at any rev / throttle position. Otherwise I'm thinking simply carb cleaning after sitting for a while, althought that would mean dirty mains but clean pilots as it's completely a-ok in the lower range. Float height is another thing, maybe it's lean after all? I'll also get a Carbtune synchronizer a soon as the moths stop flying out of my wallet. Lastly, fuel starvation. My hoses aren't too good, I'll be getting new ones this weekend or next. I also heard some sediment moving around in the tank when it was off the bike so maybe the petcock filter is clogged. But then again in isn't clogged enough for the bike to stall it's probably flowing enough for normal fuel delivery anyway.
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Mar 12, 2009 17:39
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Since the bike starts and idles fine, I'm betting it's an intake restriction. Over oiling the air filter will cause an intake restriction. That will make the bike go very, very rich. And behave exactly as you're describing. Meh, I wouldn't be very worried about crap in the tank. I've only once seen a tank filter so clogged that it wouldn't flow enough fuel to make the bike run right. Replacing the fuel hoses every couple years is good measure anyway.
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Mar 12, 2009 18:25
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I wrapped it in cloth and squashed excess oil out with my hands and left it out to dry until the morrow... we shall see then ye gods of stoichiometric ratios, we shall see!
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Mar 12, 2009 19:11
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Phat_Albert posted:Honestly I'd drill the leather and pan and rivet it anyway. You can get black rivets.
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Mar 12, 2009 19:54
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Fair enough. You're going to need some hardcore glue to get that seat to stick under constant temperature changes though.
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Mar 12, 2009 21:04
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I'll say it one more time. Contact Cement. I'ts holding my air filter togother.
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Mar 12, 2009 22:07
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This is less about science and more about art. How much might I expect to shell out to make my bike look like ? Photoshop ahead  That's just a plain old '08 vulcan 900 custom, de-greened and then patterned. I really look and feel of that bike, and am curious how much I might have to pay for such a paint job. [edit] Christ, you folks are friendly here. Happy now? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 12, 2009 |
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Mar 12, 2009 22:59
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I think that's one of the easiest patterns to do with an airbrush. You could buy one with some paint and practice on smooth sheets of wood for a while. Then go ahead and suck your own cock. Otherwise I'm not sure how much it would cost. First thought is that custom paint is very expensive. But then again there are shitloads of airbrush artists out there and an abstract ripple pattern might be easy to get right, as it's pretty hard to tell if anything's wrong. I like the idea too, would look very cool.
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Mar 12, 2009 23:09
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Bad Munki posted:Heh... Shut the gently caress up. 
TheTrend fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Mar 12, 2009 |
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Mar 12, 2009 23:09
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Bad Munki posted:This is less about science and more about art. How much might I expect to shell out to make my bike look like this photoshop I whipped out real quick? God your post sucks, please keep this bullshit style contained to your constant stream of GBS posts.
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Mar 12, 2009 23:11
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Happy now? Holy poo poo.
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Mar 12, 2009 23:13
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Bad Munki posted:
I putted around some Kawasaki forums and it seems to be in the $1500 range.
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Mar 12, 2009 23:17
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What does a normal clean/freshly lubed chain sound like? I cleaned all the gunk finally off my chain to make it pretty, and now something on the bike makes a quiet raspy/sizzling style of sound maintaining speed or right as you accelerate from a given speed. Too high pitched to be an exhaust leak and not coming from the right area. Chain noise would make sense but all I have heard in the past was a dirty chain covered in chain lube.
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Mar 13, 2009 03:41
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dietcokefiend posted:What does a normal clean/freshly lubed chain sound like? I cleaned all the gunk finally off my chain to make it pretty, and now something on the bike makes a quiet raspy/sizzling style of sound maintaining speed or right as you accelerate from a given speed. Too high pitched to be an exhaust leak and not coming from the right area. Chain noise would make sense but all I have heard in the past was a dirty chain covered in chain lube. Try putting it on the ceterstand if you have one, start it and put it into gear then walk around it trying to pinpoint the noise.
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Mar 13, 2009 04:36
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You don't need to even have it in gear - as long as the bike's cold, there will be enough force going through the clutch to spin the back wheel in neutral. Ask me how I know...  The mechanical/sizzling sound is roughly what a nicely oiled/cleaned chain should sound like. Just make sure it's adjusted properly, and you'll be fine.
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Mar 13, 2009 04:49
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Okay, so here's my situation right now in brief: I have a 2001 SV650S My bike's had problems with starting for a while. The battery would occasionally be too weak to start (espceially in colder weather) even when the battery was new and I was keeping revs high. Hell, even now it won't turn over with a perfect, fully charged battery and the trickle charger hooked up to the drat thing. It was suggested that it could be the R/R, so finally today I got around to taking the cover off and doing a diode test with my multimeter. Here's what the manual says:  The one highlighted in red (B/W+, R-) was out of spec, reading about .95V. All the "1.5" readings also showed no change on the multimeter, but as I understand it those are testing for current leakage in the other direction, so they shouldn't affect the reading anyway right? So what exactly does the .95 mean? leaky diode? Do I have to buy a new R/R?
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Mar 13, 2009 07:13
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Wait - even with a fully charged battery it won't turn over? That sounds like either a starter issue, or corroded wiring.
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Mar 13, 2009 07:18
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http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2975471&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=46#post357771512 and then there's http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2975471&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=47#post357808876 That should set you up with what you need to do.
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Mar 13, 2009 07:21
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funny, this was just discussed. :-) I tend to test thigns the other way. the r/r is a black box. If everythign else is ok, then the r/r is hosed. on the three prong connector on the bike, check the ohms leg to leg. If they're all the same, that's good. But you said the bike isn't starting at all now. Check the battery. What's it's voltage? Does it crank over at all? Have you checked the fluid level in the battery? The BW line, is the ground line for the r/r. The red wire is the positive wire. You can use the voltmeter to test between the red wire on the plug, and the red wire on the battery. There should be less than 1ohm. Same for the black-white wire, to the black wire on the battery.
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Mar 13, 2009 07:25
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MrZig posted:Wait - even with a fully charged battery it won't turn over? The engine used to crank over weakly, but wouldn't fire, now the lights just dim and I hear nothing when I hit the starter button. Battery voltage's about 12 or 13 volts if I remember correctly. Around there. It's a sealed battery, too.
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Mar 13, 2009 07:31
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You need tocheck the voltage while cranking. A shot battery will get to 14v charge, but as soon as you put a load on it, the voltage will plummet down to the low single digits. You probally have ruined your battery in the process here.
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Mar 13, 2009 07:39
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:So maybe the starter relay then? I haven't checked that. Well if the lights are dimming too then it's most likely a dead battery. Try hooking up a car battery to the terminals, careful not to short the positive side, and see what happens.
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Mar 13, 2009 07:54
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Simkin posted:The mechanical/sizzling sound is roughly what a nicely oiled/cleaned chain should sound like. Just make sure it's adjusted properly, and you'll be fine. Figured as much but didnt expect it to be as loud as it was. On a road bike it makes a similar sound only if your head is next to the chain while cleaning it  . This you can hear over road, engine, and wind noise going 70.
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Mar 13, 2009 14:34
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Maybe it's too loose or too tight?
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Mar 13, 2009 15:07
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Ola posted:Maybe it's too loose or too tight? Slack is about 1.5" right now, middle of the 1.4-1.6" slack listing under the bike seat.
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Mar 13, 2009 15:31
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I just got a v-strom 1000 that's in desperate need of a new rear. It currently has Metzeler Karoo Ts on and they're just a little too hardcore dirt for my intended use of the bike. Anyone have any experience with Bridgestone Battlewings or any other tire suggestions in somewhere around a 90% road 10% dirt style?
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Mar 13, 2009 15:43
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dietcokefiend posted:Slack is about 1.5" right now, middle of the 1.4-1.6" slack listing under the bike seat. I assume you put on new sprockets as well. Until the sprockets wear to match the chain, you'll have lots of that sizzle noise. Now I've got a few thousand miles on my 83, the noise has gone away to a certain extent. Yes, it's normal.
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Mar 13, 2009 15:45
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Nerobro posted:I assume you put on new sprockets as well. Until the sprockets wear to match the chain, you'll have lots of that sizzle noise. Now I've got a few thousand miles on my 83, the noise has gone away to a certain extent. This is the old chain/sprockets which I believe is original. Sizzle noise only came after the cleaning to take off about 3mm of gunk covering everything.
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Mar 13, 2009 15:51
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Grease makes a great damping material. Chains go from noisy when clean, to quiet as they get coated in grease, gunk, and other nasty stuff. And then noisy again when they start destroying themselves. That black crap that builds up on your chain, is something like 80% rubber that comes off the rear tire.
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Mar 13, 2009 15:56
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What would you attribute a loud single clack noise to while changing gear? This happened today while I shifted up, and since it's an autonomous reaction I couldn't recall if I'd just done a bad shift. I've never heard it before. I swear, if this the start of another issue 
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Mar 13, 2009 19:49
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:Okay, so here's my situation right now in brief: this just happened to me too, new R/R (well an old one pulled off a gsxr400) sorted it, although i have a misfire in one cylinder when it heats up aswell, possibly a faulty coil. need to fix that asap, sick of driving the car
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Mar 13, 2009 21:21
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I have a '99 V-Star 650 with a leaky fuel-shutoff valve. I was already in the habit of shutting it off while parked as a precaution, but lately it has started to actually leak in a slow drip while it's turned on. Very annoying. It can't be that complicated to fix myself, aside from draining all the fuel out of the tank, right? I guess I'm just nervous because I don't have access to a garage or a lot of tools, so the repair (my first on a motorcycle) would have to be completed in a driveway. Looking at online parts diagrams I would imagine all I have to do is replace some valve packing, though, which seems simple enough. Would I be opening a can of worms? thanks!
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Mar 13, 2009 21:37
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Even for a complete noob, it should only be an hour job. Easiest solution is to buy a complete new petcock. Replacement is as simple as removing the fuel and vacuum lines, then unbolting one petcock, and bolting on the other. There are rebuild kits,which are much cheaper, but require some skill to install.
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Mar 13, 2009 21:59
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kcer posted:What would you attribute a loud single clack noise to while changing gear? This happened today while I shifted up, and since it's an autonomous reaction I couldn't recall if I'd just done a bad shift. I've never heard it before. You probably didn't come off the throttle completely, or fumbled the clutch enough to cause some driveline shock. Not bad enough to cause a missed shift, but enough to cause the transmission to come together harshly. Not a big deal, it happens sometimes.
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Mar 13, 2009 22:07
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kcer posted:What would you attribute a loud single clack noise to while changing gear? This happened today while I shifted up, and since it's an autonomous reaction I couldn't recall if I'd just done a bad shift. I've never heard it before. Sometimes I get a louder clunk when shifting. Haven't noticed it when upshifting - usually downshifting. I assume its either the linkages catching just right (or just wrong), or as Z3n said, a slight mis-shift. I wouldn't sweat it unless it starts happening constantly, or you start noticing slipping.
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Mar 13, 2009 22:20
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Thanks for the replies. Why would slipping relate to it? Edit: \/ Ah, thanks 
kcer fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Mar 14, 2009 |
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Mar 13, 2009 23:40
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It would mean that the clutch wasn't engaging fully, and the clacking into gear is resulting from that. You're likely to notice that clunking more often when your bike is cold, before the oil's had a chance to warm up.
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Mar 13, 2009 23:53
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kcer posted:Thanks for the replies. I was just trying to think of cases where you have to start worrying about an actual problem.
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Mar 13, 2009 23:54
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| # ? May 15, 2024 22:52 |
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My friend had a thought, would it be possible to install a rotary engine sideways in a motorcyle, thus using the engine's rotation like a gyroscope to achieve a super nimble and impossible to tip over bike? Or is this just a stupid idea, period?
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Mar 14, 2009 07:39
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