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I'll start off with "it won't work." Because it won't. :-) However, I need to ask your question. What do you mean sideways? If you mean with the engine axis parallel to the wheel axis, that's been done. The RE5, and Norton wankels all worked that way. Or do you mean rotary engine? Like a LeRhone engine off a WW2 biplane? Keep in mind that gyroscopes DO NOT SELF CENTER. If you tip one over, it will remain tipped over. And will not recover! If you placed the engine with it's crank axis horizontal, in line with the chassis, you'd have a bike that would be very difficult to manage. The bike would tip over very easily. And due to engine mass would react to engine torque violently. if you placed the motor with the axis parallel to the axles, the bike would likely run ok. It would be very resistant to tipping into a corner. It would also be very resistant to turning. It would likely fall into turns, and be very sketchy in corners. It would load the front tire more heavily, and you'd be depending on the gyrocopic action to save you. This is something inline 4's have a problem with. Well, not "problem" but they do what they can to eliminate the crankshaft working as a gyroscope. If you placed the motor with the crankshaft axis vertical. You'd need to steer the bike like a car. And it would be very, very slow to recover from corners. It would also stick into corners. Though in this case, engine action would press the front tire into the ground harder, so you'd have good traction. Bikes work best with as little gyroscopic action as you can manage. Right now, wheel gyroscopic action dampens the steering action. They now have steering dampers, and even electronic ones so they can adjust at what speed it engages. As it stands. As long as a bike still has traction, enough speed, and enough steering angle left over, a bike can't be tipped over. They already do that. :-)
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Mar 14, 2009 07:55
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^^ Oh sure, make me look like an rear end.  Ratzinc posted:Rotary + motorcycle = ?? Suzuki's got ya covered.  loving Resident Evil 5, loving up the GIS search for motorcycles.
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Mar 14, 2009 08:11
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There's more. Hercules made one with a rotary. I've actually seen one of those in the flesh. The Hercules was air cooled, which is just loving wacky for a motor that needs oil to keep the rotor at sub nuclear temps. AND the motor was mounted with the crankshaft parallel with the chassis. NSU made some wankel bikes too. If you want to see a really hot rotary, check out the Norton F1. http://www.realclassic.co.uk/norton04092300.html
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Mar 14, 2009 08:15
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Nerobro posted:I'll start off with "it won't work." Because it won't. :-) Thanks for the in depth answer everyone!
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Mar 14, 2009 09:03
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What are everyone's thoughts on the Guzzi Breva? I've got my eye on one and a local dealer has a couple (including a review demo with 600m), so I'm probably going to go check it out today. I'm only 5'6" 150, but a 31" seat and 400lbs doesn't sound too bad. Any nightmares I can look forward to with a shaft drive?
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Mar 14, 2009 14:59
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I don't know if Moto Guzzis are somehow different, but shaft drives are generally more reliable and require less maintenance than any other drive system.
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Mar 14, 2009 15:29
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Ratzinc posted:My friend had a thought, would it be possible to install a rotary engine sideways in a motorcyle, thus using the engine's rotation like a gyroscope to achieve a super nimble and impossible to tip over bike? Or is this just a stupid idea, period? Handiklap posted:What are everyone's thoughts on the Guzzi Breva? I've got my eye on one and a local dealer has a couple (including a review demo with 600m), so I'm probably going to go check it out today. I'm only 5'6" 150, but a 31" seat and 400lbs doesn't sound too bad. Any nightmares I can look forward to with a shaft drive?
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Mar 14, 2009 19:11
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Handiklap posted:Guzzi
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Mar 14, 2009 20:42
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:here we go i just found a better answer Um...Sold?
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Mar 14, 2009 22:08
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I'm buying a Pit Bull newfront stand on craigslist for cheap. Do I need the rear stand as well or should the center stand on the ninja250 be fine for supporting the bike? I plan on working on the brakes and changing the tire.
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Mar 14, 2009 22:35
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blugu64 posted:I'm buying a Pit Bull newfront stand on craigslist for cheap. Do I need the rear stand as well or should the center stand on the ninja250 be fine for supporting the bike? I plan on working on the brakes and changing the tire. Personally, I'd buy the rear stand as well. Front stands on their own don't do a fantastic job of supporting the bike and keeping it stable, and you may have some issues with the front stand lifting the front forks up too much for the height of the centerstand and causing weird weight issues or the potential for the bike to slide off the stand.
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Mar 14, 2009 23:09
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 15, 2009 01:35
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dietcokefiend posted:Do bikes have the same flatspot tire problems of older cars in storage? Like is it recommended that you put bike on its center stand in storage to take most of the weight off the tires? I thought most modern tires don't have flat spot issues. And they'll go away with a little driving. Not sure if it changes for tubeless. Question, though. If I'm looking to do some basic maintenance. (Tires, spark plugs, air filter, chain, etc) What all will I need? I have a ratchet set, allen wrenches, phillips/flat heats, etc. I'm guess I'll need a torque wrench and spark plug gapper. Anything else?
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Mar 15, 2009 04:40
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Christoff posted:What all will I need? I have a ratchet set, allen wrenches, phillips/flat heats, etc. ok now, everyone here with a 70s bike or any other bike with a gas cap of the two spring-bladed screw-on type needs to go measure their filler hole/cap and if the inner (smallest) diameter is 1.5" then tell me the make and model. chop chop. cause i'm not paying $40 for a goddamn italian gas cap. i won't be italy's bitch anymore.
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Mar 15, 2009 05:02
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:ok now, everyone here with a 70s bike or any other bike with a gas cap of the two spring-bladed screw-on type needs to go measure their filler hole/cap and if the inner (smallest) diameter is 1.5" then tell me the make and model. chop chop. cause i'm not paying $40 for a goddamn italian gas cap. i won't be italy's bitch anymore. I just checked my 77' KZ650 and 66' YDS3 and both are too large. Sorry  1.5 inches seems really small. Some of the older 60's Yamaha's had pretty small gas caps. The ones pictured here (about half way down the page) http://www.hvccycle.com/yamaha1965to1969.htm are 2.5 inches in diameter. If thats the outer diameter the inner might be close to 1.5 inches. If you call HVC up they'll likely measure it for you. Of course you might not want that Yamaha logo tarnishing your beautiful Italian masterpiece.
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Mar 15, 2009 05:14
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blugu64 posted:I'm buying a Pit Bull newfront stand on craigslist for cheap. Do I need the rear stand as well or should the center stand on the ninja250 be fine for supporting the bike? I plan on working on the brakes and changing the tire. You could probably get by but it will be much more stable on a rear stand, and you will never ever ever regret having a set of pitbull front and rear stands.
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Mar 15, 2009 06:02
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I did some testing on my weird fuel system and I found out the following: -If I run the bike on PRIME it runs great -If I run the bike on RESERVE it runs great -If I run the bike on ON it runs for a minute or so and then dies out. (probably consuming the fuel in the carbs? Would this be a case of a bad vacuum or a bad petcock?
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Mar 15, 2009 08:41
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 15, 2009 08:45
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I did some testing on my weird fuel system and I found out the following: I would guess petcock first. They aren't too hard to take apart. There could be some crap plugging the ON intake.
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Mar 15, 2009 08:46
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Reserve is also vacuum actuated, so that should eliminate vacuum issues.
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Mar 15, 2009 15:53
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Anyone here ever done the MSF Advanced Riders Course or an instructed track day? Thinking about one of the two.
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Mar 15, 2009 17:02
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Ola posted:Reserve is also vacuum actuated, so that should eliminate vacuum issues. I assumed since that one worked it was probably a lovely petcock. Well poo poo! I hope I can find one for cheap. Is it as easy as draining the tank and bolting a new one in? Should I go aftermarket or is OEM the way to go on petcocks? my bike model is notorious for having fuel starvation issues at high speeds on stock fuel setups so I guess aftermarket would be the way to go yeah?
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Mar 15, 2009 17:59
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Christoff posted:Anyone here ever done the MSF Advanced Riders Course or an instructed track day? Thinking about one of the two. Do a heavily instructed trackday instead of the MSF Advanced Riders Course. The MSF stuff is nice, but you're in a parking lot, so a lot of it falls into the realm of theory because you're going 30, not 65. BotchedLobotomy posted:I assumed since that one worked it was probably a lovely petcock. Well poo poo! I hope I can find one for cheap. Is it as easy as draining the tank and bolting a new one in? Should I go aftermarket or is OEM the way to go on petcocks? my bike model is notorious for having fuel starvation issues at high speeds on stock fuel setups so I guess aftermarket would be the way to go yeah? I wouldn't bother fixing it. Turn it to on when you're not riding it, and run it on reserve or prime the rest of the time. It could also be that we/I screwed up putting the correct hoses back on the petcock...check the hose routing.
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Mar 15, 2009 18:02
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Christoff posted:Anyone here ever done the MSF Advanced Riders Course or an instructed track day? Thinking about one of the two. The MSF advanced is $90 and takes 2 points off your record, which is a pretty good deal if you have any points on your record. The insurance discount ends up only being around $30 in most cases, though. I was planning on taking it before any trackdays to correct whatever I might be doing wrong (and get points off).
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Mar 15, 2009 18:54
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Z3n posted:Do a heavily instructed trackday instead of the MSF Advanced Riders Course. The MSF stuff is nice, but you're in a parking lot, so a lot of it falls into the realm of theory because you're going 30, not 65. Haha nah, well, it WAS backwards but I've already fixed it.  I guess I just need to learn to gauge how for I can go on a tank so I don't run out of gas like a chump.
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Mar 15, 2009 18:54
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Gnaghi posted:The MSF advanced is $90 and takes 2 points off your record, which is a pretty good deal if you have any points on your record. The insurance discount ends up only being around $30 in most cases, though. I was planning on taking it before any trackdays to correct whatever I might be doing wrong (and get points off). Wait, what? Takes points OFF your record? I don't have any points but is that state dependent?
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Mar 15, 2009 21:43
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8ender posted:I just checked my 77' KZ650 and 66' YDS3 and both are too large. Sorry
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Mar 15, 2009 21:55
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Quick question: My new Buell Lightning's battery can't seem to hold a charge overnight and gets hot while riding. Seems to me like it's time for a replacement, do you guys agree?
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Mar 15, 2009 23:07
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Getting hot while riding doesn't sound like a battery problem, that seems like it would fall more into the realm of a charging problem.
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Mar 16, 2009 00:07
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I think the heat is just a byproduct of being close to the rear cylinder. When the under-seat fan wasn't working for mine, even in 60 degree weather was seriously sweatin' balls (literally). Once I got that fixed, it was much better, but it wouldn't surprise me if the heat on the battery is just from the engine.
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Mar 16, 2009 01:13
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Well, the underseat fan is working well, but yeah the battery isn't cranking the motor, even after a long ride. I got it checked with the machine at Advance Auto Parts and it had 12.4v but only 28CA, this after the long ride. The tester recommended replacement. Do you think their tester is reliable?
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Mar 16, 2009 |
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Mar 16, 2009 01:20
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 16, 2009 01:51
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dietcokefiend posted:gently caress well I dont know what happened but I can barely move my wrist for anything now. Hurts to just hold it up to walk around. Suck it up or get the thing xrayed? Okay, I have a new question: I went nuts with my bike today and there are parts and fairings and stuff around my garage now. I've got like 5-6 things going on at once. One thing that really pissed me off though, is the gear lever assembly. Last year I replaced my rear brake lever and it didn't seem as big of a pain in the rear end as this. I've got the gear lever assembly off and can't find a way to exert enough force on the footpeg/hex bolt to get the goddamn thing apart so I can change the gear lever out. Any suggestions? I've currently got the thing sitting on the floor with the bolt covered in WD-40. I'm gonna try again tomorrow, hopefully this is all it needs. This is what I'm talking about (pic's not mine)
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Mar 16, 2009 02:13
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:Get it x-rayed. Your situation sounds a little worse than when I broke my wrist; I could walk around and poo poo but I had to be very, very careful how I held it and how I grabbed/exerted force on things, otherwise it'd hurt like all gently caress. I used medical ibuprofen for the swelling and that helped but yeah, it was broken in the end. That's not a hex bolt. It's a nut that threads onto the rod to secure it to the footpeg assembly. Can you not get it out at all? Usually all you have to do is get the nut to back off the footpeg portion, and then you can just spin the footpeg off.
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Mar 16, 2009 02:40
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One end of that shifter assembly is a left hand thread, so if you're working it like a regular right hand thread, you're tightening.
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Mar 16, 2009 03:29
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Christoff posted:I'm guess I'll need a torque wrench and spark plug gapper. Anything else? You'll probably also need feeler gauges if you adjust your valve clearance. That's all I've ever needed to work on my bike, though I haven't tackled replacing my chain, yet.
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Mar 16, 2009 03:35
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:some more searching revealed a '60s honda dream 150 gas cap has an ID of 1.5". found a used one on ebay. i just screwed italy out of $35. take that, benito. Eagerly awaiting your followup post when you find out they made the original Guzzi cap reverse threaded or some crazy poo poo.
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Mar 16, 2009 03:43
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^^^ I'm not sure I understand that fully. Z3n posted:That's not a hex bolt. It's a nut that threads onto the rod to secure it to the footpeg assembly. Can you not get it out at all? Usually all you have to do is get the nut to back off the footpeg portion, and then you can just spin the footpeg off. Also I'm pretty sure it's a bolt and not a nut, because it's a head and there's nothing protruding through it. Also when I replaced my brake lever I remember this thing being a bolt, with the footpeg assembly being hollow and threaded (or something) to accomodate the bolt.
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Mar 16, 2009 04:22
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:^^^ I'm not sure I understand that fully. I realized afterwards that I was probably explaining that poorly.  You can see the shift rod there, stuck through the top mount of the rearsets. The easiest way to get it to break loose is to get 2 wrenches, and use them to break the 2 nuts loose without putting too much stress on the footpeg attachment or the shift linkage. You will then be able to spin the rod to lift or lower the shift lever, or eventually it'll unthread all the way out. Look carefully at the threads and you should be able to tell which way to break the nuts loose. I'm pretty sure that if the wrench is facing upwards on the rear nut, you'll push it towards the frame to break the nut loose.
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Mar 16, 2009 05:18
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My Ninja 250 is coming up on 12,000 mile maintenance and I'm going to spend an afternoon taking care of the basics, oil change, air filter, chain tension etc. I'm concerned about one thing though - the service schedule calls for swing arm lubrication: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Servicing_the_swingarm This looks way beyond my budding mechanical side and I'm debating either taking it to a repair shop / kawasaki dealer (can't find any near me, suburban chicago area), or just neglecting it altogether but I know that's not the smart thing to do. Basically, I'm asking if I really DO need to lubricate the swing arm. I haven't felt or had any reason to believe there's anything wrong with the suspension system and there is no squeaking or friction I know of. Failing that, can anyone recommend a reliable, legitimate motorcycle or kawasaki service center in the Chicago suburbs and what I could expect to pay for that specific service?
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Mar 16, 2009 05:57
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