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Z3n posted:I realized afterwards that I was probably explaining that poorly. What I mean is the hex bolt holding the footpeg on the shift assembly. I just ran out and took a pic:
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Mar 16, 2009 06:18
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Cmdr. Shepard posted:This looks way beyond my budding mechanical side and I'm debating either taking it to a repair shop / kawasaki dealer (can't find any near me, suburban chicago area), or just neglecting it altogether but I know that's not the smart thing to do. Basically, I'm asking if I really DO need to lubricate the swing arm. I haven't felt or had any reason to believe there's anything wrong with the suspension system and there is no squeaking or friction I know of. Reasons why I will strive to never own a bike without grease nipples... It's a service interval for a reason. Sure, ignoring it until you pass the bike on to someone else might not cause any problems, or it could seize up on you, making your suspension unable to react like normal. From the provided walkthrough, there's absolutely nothing complicated about that. Just make sure you have everything well supported, have the right tools and material on hand, and take your time. I don't see it taking any more than about an hour, start to finish. Well, maybe more, if you've never removed a wheel before.
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Mar 16, 2009 07:01
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I'd be willing to help. Shouldn't take more than an hour if we go quick. Two is we slow down and make sure you know why and what to look for. Doing it right at 12k miles doesn't matter. I think the ninja may use bushings, so lubricating it IS important. If you don't mind the drive to deerfield, we can setup a time.
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Mar 16, 2009 07:39
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Some oblivious old bastard backed into my bike this morning (1978 Honda CB400T). Luckily I was about to leave for work when he did it. Everything on the bike looks ok aside from the fact that the steering lock is now stuck. I'm guessing that when the bike fell over the impact from the handlebars hitting jarred something inside the locking mechanism. Since the lock is there as a security measure, I'm sure it's gonna be a pain in the rear end to remove and/or fix. Has anyone here had an issue with a broken or stuck steering lock?
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Mar 16, 2009 16:02
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Nerobro posted:I'd be willing to help. Shouldn't take more than an hour if we go quick. Two is we slow down and make sure you know why and what to look for. Doing it right at 12k miles doesn't matter. I think the ninja may use bushings, so lubricating it IS important. Thanks, I would really appreciate this. Do you have an email I can contact you at, otherwise you can contact me through email in my profile.
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Mar 16, 2009 16:11
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My username at gmail dot com. Nerobro on AIM, etc :-)
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Mar 16, 2009 16:18
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:OH! I get what you're saying! Nono, you misunderstood me. Oh.  That explains it. I take it that you don't have a vice. A good alternative to a vice is a set of vice grips. Clip them on the bracket, stand on the vice grips, and you should be able to get enough force on it to break it loose. If you've been looking for an excuse to buy a vice, now is the time. They're really, really drat handy. So handy, you'll wonder how you ever lived without one before.
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Mar 16, 2009 16:44
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Christoff posted:Wait, what? Takes points OFF your record? I don't have any points but is that state dependent? Well I would check with your state, but here in NJ you do get points off. It's pretty cool, you can lose points for taking a driver safety course, an MSF course and an Advanced MSF course. I think you can only do each one every five years to get it, though. I do know that you cannot get "point credits". In other words, you can't take a course with zero points and have -2 on your record. That would be so awesome.
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Mar 16, 2009 19:54
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Can you guys start giving me some tips (as a non-rider) for being on the back of someone's bike? It's a Honda ST1300 and I don't want to get into trouble leaning the wrong way or doing the wrong thing, etc. The only note is that he has a luggage thing on the back of his bike, so I can lean back to an extent.
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Mar 16, 2009 21:02
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Andy! posted:Can you guys start giving me some tips (as a non-rider) for being on the back of someone's bike? It's a Honda ST1300 and I don't want to get into trouble leaning the wrong way or doing the wrong thing, etc. The only note is that he has a luggage thing on the back of his bike, so I can lean back to an extent. Relax. Don't try and lean with or against the bike, just sit there and look over his shoulder in the direction of any corners. You'll naturally go with the bike when you do that. Don't put a foot down at stoplights, he will balance the bike. Don't shift your weight around midcorner, and work out some way of letting him know if you're going to be moving around (tap on the shoulder or something) so that you don't wiggle when you shouldn't. That's pretty much it, just enjoy the ride.
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Mar 16, 2009 21:15
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If you really, really have to fidget, for the sake of all involved, don't do it at low speeds. At higher speeds, the bike is more stable, so you shuffling a little bit to get comfortable won't make much of an impact, but at low speeds, you'll actually be able to influence the bike to a noticeable extent.
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Mar 16, 2009 21:42
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To expand on what Z3n said, agree on a system of signals. Taps, hand gestures, whatever. I would say you need a way to communicate at least: - Slow down - I need to stop/stretch/pee/gently caress/whatever - Hold on a second (usually as a response from the rider to the above)
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Mar 16, 2009 22:25
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Z3n posted:Oh. Or bolt the rear set back on. Zool fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Mar 17, 2009 |
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Mar 17, 2009 00:35
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I had planned on changing my motorcycles oil today but I wasn't able to find a proper oil filter after visiting both the local Advance Auto Parts and Super Walmart. Ninja250.org recommends one of the following filters: * Amsoil: SMF 101 (No longer available. Replaced by WIX 24941.) * CarQuest: CFI-89941 * Emgo: 10-37500 (includes O-rings) 10-20300 (doesn't have O-rings) * Fram: CH6012 * Hastings: LF571 * Honda: 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024 * Kawasaki: 16099-003 * K&N: KN-401 * NAPA: PS4941 (formerly 4941) * Perf-Form: OF-0047 (formerly J-501) * Purolator: ML16812 * STP: SMO-12 (Once readily available, now appears to have been discontinued.) * Triumph: 1210031 * Vesrah: SF-4004 * WIX: 24941 * Yamaha: 36Y-13441-00 I wasn't able to find any of these. Can anyone recommend an alternative filter that will work for my 1998 Ninja 250 that I could find at an auto parts store? Or, am I SOL and will have to purchase online? Edit - Nevermind, found a motorsports dealer about a half hour away! Google is my friend! The Shep fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Mar 17, 2009 |
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Mar 17, 2009 01:03
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Zool posted:Or bolt the rear set back on. I don't know if it'll fit on there backwards...all of the extra bits may get in the way. But it's worth a shot, for sure. Mine was usually still connected to the bike, so I would just use my stromph and vice grips and call it good. Cmdr. Shepard, I'd just order a stack of OEM ones from the internet. Cheap and easy. I only run OEM filters...
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Mar 17, 2009 01:05
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I would also suggest only OEM filters... got some random filter for my SV last year, and I couldn't figure out why I kept dripping a little oil from around the filter on occasion. I finally figured out that the canister wasn't properly attached to the filter base, total piece of crap. I got an OEM Suzuki filter this time.
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Mar 17, 2009 01:27
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I am having trouble diagnosing what's wrong with my bike. I asked about this once before but I didn't really get an answer so I am trying again. I have a 1988 Honda VTR 250. It runs really well when the engine is cold (with the choke off), but once the engine is fully warm (about 20 minutes I would say) it will die if it has to idle if I don't keep the throttle open a little bit. If it does die once it's warm, it needs the choke open to start again. I can't think of a reason why it would do this, I thought that maybe some part of the carburetor was clogged like the low speed circuit but if that were the case it seems like the problem should occur regardless of engine temperature. Anyone have any ideas?
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Mar 17, 2009 02:09
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It may be too rich, which would explain why it runs well cold, but craps out once warm.
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Mar 17, 2009 02:17
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Zool posted:Or bolt the rear set back on. So I went and got a 8mm socket hex piece, combined that with standing on the vice-grip and bam, it worked. NOW the problem is with the shift rod that Z3n was advising me about earlier--you know how one side's right-hand threaded and one's left-hand? Turns out the shift lever I bought goes the wrong way (right-hand instead of left) so now I have two "righty tighty" female ends. If they're even called female ends but whatever. Do they make shift rodes with both ends going the same direction?
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Mar 17, 2009 03:56
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 17, 2009 04:26
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dietcokefiend posted:Tomorrow I plan on riding into work if my wrist feels better. To bring a change of clothes and my normal shoes I will be wearing a backpack. It has a chest and waist strap to hold on firmly and shouldn't flop around with the wind. Is there anything I should be aware of in relation to a backpack on my back going 60-70 down the road? Other than that, you're fine. I use a regular school backpack. It's a little annoying putting it on when I'm wearing my leather jacket but otherwise it's fine.
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Mar 17, 2009 04:56
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On cleaning/lubing a chain: how, exactly? I assume it's much the same with lubing a bicycle chain, only a motorcycle weighs a bit more than fifteen pounds and I can't exactly upend it to spin the chain freely while lubing.
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Mar 17, 2009 05:10
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^^ Use your center stand, or, in absence of one, you can just do a section at a time, and then roll it forward. Sure, it takes longer, but what else are you going to do if you have nothing to hold the wheel up?Son of Thunderbeast posted:It's hilarious for everyone watching, putting it on over any armoured jacket, but otherwise it's fine. Fixed for ya. 
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Mar 17, 2009 05:11
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dietcokefiend posted:Tomorrow I plan on riding into work if my wrist feels better. To bring a change of clothes and my normal shoes I will be wearing a backpack. It has a chest and waist strap to hold on firmly and shouldn't flop around with the wind. Is there anything I should be aware of in relation to a backpack on my back going 60-70 down the road? Depending on the backpack you may have a lot of excess straps flopping around. A simple way to secure the excess strap is to roll it up and then put a rubber band around the rolled-up portion.
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Mar 17, 2009 05:19
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Hmm, the oft-attempted, never-succeeded, center stand... On backpacks: I wear one nearly every time I ride, and have found that letting the straps out all the way is an absolute necessity both in putting it on and taking it off. Sport bike, so I fatigue faster when laying over the tank at highway speeds while wearing a backpack. Additional drag, perhaps?
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Mar 17, 2009 05:23
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Ghost of Razgriz posted:Hmm, the oft-attempted, never-succeeded, center stand... The trick to the centre stand is to push down with your foot, not to lift the bike. here's the ninja wiki page on it. If my backpack is heavy (just done some shopping), I loosen the straps so that it rests on the passenger seat.
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Mar 17, 2009 06:01
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Yeah, that walkthrough's a pretty good explanation. After a while, it just becomes a nice, fluid movement. Then, when you've mastered popping your bike up onto its ceter stand, you can try learning to pirouette it on the side stand. 
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Mar 17, 2009 06:48
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i dunno if you can tell from the photo but this fork seal is kinda greasy on the top and isn't aligned properly and i don't feel much dampening effect when i bounce my weight on it like i do with the other fork. is this the kinda thing that need replacing or could it be fixed by fiddling around with it and realigning it?
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Mar 17, 2009 07:04
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What is the big advantage to using fuel filters? I'm assuming they marginally increase engine life? And what should I look for as far as a filter brand/type for a 91 honda cb750 ? Sorry that this is probably a really basic/retarded question, but my bike is the first one I've owned that I do all the work on myself (which is working out great lately, learning a lot from these forums and doing things hands-on!)
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Mar 17, 2009 08:12
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Well, they'll get you yelled at by most of the people in here, if you somehow count that as an advantage. Seriously, don't even bother, you've already got at least two filters already on your bike before any potential crap even touches your engine. Supplementing that is unnecessary.
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Mar 17, 2009 08:16
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Yeah, besides getting yelled at by those of us who have tried it already, you will probably 'run out of gas' a lot sooner with an inline filter installed as there is not enough pressure at low tank levels to push it through the tank strainer, the inline filter and then the tiny filters at the jets. It's really annoying, embarrassing and potentially dangerous (ask me how I know).
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Mar 17, 2009 15:34
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:is this the kinda thing that need replacing or could it be fixed by fiddling around with it and realigning it? Well, it's likely you can clean the seal using the film negative method. You'd still need to properly refill the fork before you got any damping action back. since you already have the fork off, why not just replace the seals? Datsun Honeybee posted:What is the big advantage to using fuel filters? I'm assuming they marginally increase engine life? There's no single big advantage to fuel filters. But they do provide you with a lot of benifits.
Yeah. Don't do it. The only advantage with a clear fuel filter is you can see the fuel flow into the carbs. Which is useful if you just installed a new petcock and want to know if you got it right. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Mar 17, 2009 |
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Mar 17, 2009 15:40
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Nerobro posted:Yeah. Don't do it. I think if you have a grimy old tank and have had trouble sealing it or don't want to seal it fuel filters can be a good way to prevent a bunch of poo poo of clogging up your carbs.
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Mar 17, 2009 16:50
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PlasticSun posted:I think if you have a grimy old tank and have had trouble sealing it or don't want to seal it fuel filters can be a good way to prevent a bunch of poo poo of clogging up your carbs. Even grimy old tanks have filters on the petcocks. And all my bikes also have filters on each of the float valves.
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Mar 17, 2009 17:21
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:Tried that, didn't work. Do you have a picture of the 2 shift rods? Is there any reason you need to replace it?
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Mar 17, 2009 17:37
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I assumed since that one worked it was probably a lovely petcock. Well poo poo! I hope I can find one for cheap. Is it as easy as draining the tank and bolting a new one in? Should I go aftermarket or is OEM the way to go on petcocks? my bike model is notorious for having fuel starvation issues at high speeds on stock fuel setups so I guess aftermarket would be the way to go yeah? I meant to reply to this earlier, but forgot. Hopefully you haven't bought a whole new petcock. Unless the petcock is physically cracked, there's no need to buy a whole new one. You can get petcock rebuild kits much cheaper. These typically consist of all the gaskets you need and a diaphragm if you have a vacuum actuated one. Find a diagram of your petcock for specifics, but in general you disconnect the tank, and run the gas out of the petcock (put it to prime or something). You shouldn't have to drain the tank unless you can't clamp the fuel line for some reason. You just dissassemble the petcock, change all the gaskets and diaphragm, put it all back together, and re-hook it up. Be careful with the new diaphragm! They are fragile, and if you tear it you're starting over again. Also, they usually go in one way, and one way only. TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WAY THE OLD ONE IS INSTALLED BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OUT. Seriously, this will save you about an hour of trying to figure out which way the loving thing goes in. I speak from experience. 
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Mar 17, 2009 19:18
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Z3n posted:Do you have a picture of the 2 shift rods? Is there any reason you need to replace it? I'm going to see if there's a way to swap the linkages out, maybe. Probably not. EDIT: They look exactly the same, structure-wise, it's just the threads on the linkage on the new one go the wrong way. Son of Thunderbeast fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Mar 17, 2009 |
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Mar 17, 2009 21:05
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Son of Thunderbeast posted:The footpeg broke off the old shift lever when I was trying to push-start it last fall. You should be able to just swap them over...do you have a picture? I'm so confused now 
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Mar 17, 2009 21:08
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A question for the question thread. I'm thinking about getting a bike when (if) I get a job. My folks live near a hell of a lot of trails outside of Toronto (here http://www.grca.on.ca/ganfor.htm ) and I want something for some summer fun. However since we do not have a truck a dirt bike isn't very practical. Does anyone have any experience with smaller dual sports around 250cc? I want something capable on the trails and yet theoretically capable (and legal) of highway speeds or at least 80-100 kph.
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Mar 17, 2009 23:02
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King no one posted:I want something for some summer fun. However since we do not have a truck a dirt bike isn't very practical. Does anyone have any experience with smaller dual sports around 250cc? I want something capable on the trails and yet theoretically capable (and legal) of highway speeds or at least 80-100 kph. The answer to your question is the CRF230L.
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Mar 17, 2009 23:04
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