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Interesting. It seems it's a bit more than the Yamaha XT250 locally but there is one for sale. Brand new 2008 version. Do you have much experience with the CRF?
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Mar 17, 2009 23:15
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I still need help finding an air filter for my 1982 Honda CM250C. I don't want the stock airbox in, so do I need a "pod" air filter, whatever that is? All I know is that I need the air filter to have an inside diameter of two inches. I can connect it to the carbs via a radiator hose if I need to. I went to Autozone today and they didn't have anything that could help me, and the staff had no idea what the gently caress. Z3n suggested trying to find an air filter for a Rebel since it's almost the same as my bike, but the air filter sure doesn't look similar to mine.
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Mar 17, 2009 23:18
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Uni-2-Stage-Straight-POD-Air-Filter-UP-4200ST-2%22-x-4%22_W0QQitemZ360099330645QQcmdZViewItem That would be a pod air filter with a 2 inch ID, pretty sure that's what you want. Pretty easy all around as long as there's a place for it under the bike.
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Mar 17, 2009 23:24
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Yep, that's exactly what I needed, thanks!
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Mar 17, 2009 23:55
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Most likely you won't like the results. You will most likely need to rejet. Thoroughly. You've been warned.
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Mar 18, 2009 03:04
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I decided I really want the '89 GS500 with 40k miles that I had been looking at that doesn't start. He told me that the multimeter needle barely jumped when touching the spark plugs. So I was led to believe it is the igniter unit. I want to be absolutely sure, so where do I connect the multimeter leads on an '89 GS500 to check the igniter? And what else should I check with the multimeter in case it isn't the igniter unit? Thanks.
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Mar 18, 2009 05:04
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Stoic Commie posted:I decided I really want the '89 GS500 with 40k miles that I had been looking at that doesn't start. Igniters are effectively black boxes. Sometimes they'll pass tests (of which there are many) and not work, and sometimes they'll work and not pass tests. I'd check that you're getting 12v at the coils, you should. If you're not, it's possible that a lot of other things are wrong with it. You shouldn't be paying more than around 200$ for this bike.
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Mar 18, 2009 05:25
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Z3n posted:Igniters are effectively black boxes. Sometimes they'll pass tests (of which there are many) and not work, and sometimes they'll work and not pass tests. I'd check that you're getting 12v at the coils, you should. If you're not, it's possible that a lot of other things are wrong with it. And if it is the coils? What is the proper way to test the coils? The service manual I downloaded doesn't really explain it. I had enough trouble talking him down to $500. I'll go see it again and test the coils, and I guess if I don't get 12v at the coils I'll just pass on the bike.
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Mar 18, 2009 05:42
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Stoic Commie posted:And if it is the coils? What is the proper way to test the coils? The service manual I downloaded doesn't really explain it. If you get 12v at the coils, you can manually ground the coil with a lead (tap it rapidly), and you should see the plug spark each time you ground the coil. Obviously, the plug has to be grounded as well. Bring a known good plug or pick up a brand new one. Seriously, this bike is not worth 500$. It does not run. It's 20 years old. Who knows what the hell else is wrong with it. Pass on the bike. Call him and tell him that unless he's willing to cut his price in half you're not interested. I bought a salvage title, 05 Ninja 250 for 250$. It didn't have spark. I parted it because it was so much of a pain in the rear end to diagnose. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Mar 18, 2009 |
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Mar 18, 2009 06:26
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Stoic Commie posted:And if it is the coils? What is the proper way to test the coils? The service manual I downloaded doesn't really explain it. Dude. Seriously. Spark that's THAT WEAK, is the ignitor. Also the bike has two coils. It would take a miracle of biblical type for both to fail in the same way at the same time. If you recall I've had that exact problem. And those exact symptoms. For the audience, who are wondering how to test coils: To test the coils, you test the primary winding, it should be.. uh... 2.2ohms IIRC. or in that ballpark. I need to double check that to be sure. Going from the mounting bolt to the spark plug boot should be in the 10's of thousands of ohms. Also, on bikes of that generation they do not get 12v. The transistorized ignitions have big time semiconductor voltage drop. You want "voltage" but you're realistically looking at something like 8-10v at the coils. And that's healthy. Even more modern ignitoin systmes use 1.9ohm coils. Those are on bikes with CDI's instead of just transistorized ignitions. They have been using CDI's on dirtbikes back into the early 80's. The system is more expensive.. and better.. so eventually it made it's way to street bikes. That said. IT IS NOT THE COILS. :-) Hop on ebay, find a new ignitor. Spend 10 minutes installing it, and feel better that you didn't spend two hours futzing with the coils. EDIT: I'd say don't buy the bike. Not for $500 at least. I'm with Z3n on that point. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Mar 18, 2009 |
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Mar 18, 2009 06:35
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You two always give me conflicting advice it's like you're trying to drive me insane on purpose 
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Mar 18, 2009 06:39
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I remember Rev. Dr. MP Lester working on something, so I hope he can chime in on this. I'm planning a long trip this summer with my girlfriend riding pillion. I'd like to come up with a means for communication, even at highway speed if possible. Always on would be better, which is why I'm trying to avoid the obvious push-to-talk FRS/GMRS radio or cell phone. I looked at Nolan N-Com, but they're really pricey, and I don't mind being wired to each other or with each of us plugging into the bike individually. Music (one source for both of us is fine) would be cool. Prefer stereo if mono is impossible. I imagine this would require us to manually switch between music and talking, but I can leave that up to her with a tap on the leg. I'm pretty poor at drawing up electrical plans in my head, but I can follow directions if they're not in schematic form. I've soldered and shrink-wrapped before (a few xboxs and car stereos). I imagined hacking together a mic headset with stereo in-ear headphone(for music, communication, and hearing protection). I doubt the mic will be crystal at highway speeds, but I'll look into those helmet chin bibs to keep air out. Is this possible? EDIT: Can two bluetooth headsets (with handsfree or headset profile) be made to directly communicate with each other? I'm sure highway use would be impossible without an extendable mic position at the mouth. vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv I've seen those before, but it seems like an unnecessary expense since we're sitting right next to each other and I don't know anyone else with a set. Answered my own question, uses FRS band. Any significant advantages to GMRS over FRS? We only need one unit, but two headsets, right? goku chewbacca fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Mar 18, 2009 |
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Mar 18, 2009 07:16
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goku chewbacca posted:I remember Rev. Dr. MP Lester working on something, so I hope he can chime in on this. What's your budget? For a couple hundred you can get this: http://store.dsrpowersports.com/frsx2kit.html It has voice activation (similiar to small airplane headsets), it plays music, and when you talk during music-playing, it'll mute the music until you're done talking. The neat thing is it works like a CB as well so if another rider has a headset, you can talk to him. It also works like a classic intercom except you'll need to order another headset with it.
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Mar 18, 2009 07:19
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Stoic Commie posted:You two always give me conflicting advice it's like you're trying to drive me insane on purpose Actually, our advice is kinda the same...just coming from 2 different sides. I'm a mechanic who's only concerned with if the thing actually works or not. So all of my tests will be basic, physical tests, that will give you a concrete result. Plug fires, or it doesn't. If it doesn't, you replace the coil. Nero actually knows the theory behind stuff, and has tests for that...which I don't trust because I've seen coils and IC ignitors pass tests and still not work right, and not pass tests but work fine. Nero's actually probably right though. It's probably not the coils. But it could be some form of massive resistance in the wiring harness as well, a short, a melting connector, etc. Still, you should focus on the thing that's the same in both of our posts...it's not worth buying 
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Mar 18, 2009 07:20
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goku chewbacca posted:I remember Rev. Dr. MP Lester working on something, so I hope he can chime in on this. quote:Always on would be better, which is why I'm trying to avoid the obvious push-to-talk FRS/GMRS radio or cell phone.
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Mar 18, 2009 11:23
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What type of lube goes inside an o-ring chain? Bought a new chain today and the master link doesn't come with a tiny packet of grease. On hand I have some copper based grease, the type you use for brake pads etc, and some yellow-y stuff which I think is lithium based. Will either do?
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Mar 18, 2009 15:40
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I've always used normal axle grease. I figure the lithium stuff will work fine too.
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Mar 18, 2009 15:58
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Ola posted:What type of lube goes inside an o-ring chain? Bought a new chain today and the master link doesn't come with a tiny packet of grease. On hand I have some copper based grease, the type you use for brake pads etc, and some yellow-y stuff which I think is lithium based. Will either do? Usually the masterlink bag is filled with grease, and I just coat the masterlink generously with it. Never had a problem.
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Mar 18, 2009 17:04
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I definitely see where you're coming from. If it is for sure just the ignitor though, I am definitely going to buy it. The market is really inflated around here and it is impossible to find a working cheap bike around here. So what I'm going to do is go and look at the bike again to see if it gets 12v at the coils and do Zen's test to make sure the coils work. What I'm not clear on is how/where exactly I need to hook up the multimeter to see if there is 12v. After that is done, I want to do Zen's physical test, but I don't understand all your talk of grounding the coils to see.
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Mar 18, 2009 19:11
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Checking for voltage at the coils is not easy. if there's some other kind of electrical problem. Even minor ones, the voltage will be very screwed up. Evne if the battery is just discharged. Checking the resistance across the coils will tell you if they're good or not. If they are good, then you know for sure, that it's the ignitor or crank pickup. And to reiterate, you're taking a HUGE FREAKING BET here. One I would not recommend taking. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Mar 18, 2009 |
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Mar 18, 2009 19:22
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Stoic Commie posted:I definitely see where you're coming from. If it is for sure just the ignitor though, I am definitely going to buy it. The market is really inflated around here and it is impossible to find a working cheap bike around here. This is the problem. Unless I missed something you posted earlier, until you fix the ignitor you don't know what else is wrong with the bike, or if it will even run after you replace it. Cross your fingers.
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Mar 18, 2009 19:24
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I would just hate to miss out on this bike when it could be such an easy fix. I have a huge hardon for late 80s/early 90s GS500s and who knows when I'll find another. Oh well I guess I'll skip it. I made a post about the nighthawk I looked at in the what bike to buy thread. There were some issues hopefully you guys can help me figure out.
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Mar 18, 2009 19:57
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Stoic Commie posted:I would just hate to miss out on this bike when it could be such an easy fix. I have a huge hardon for late 80s/early 90s GS500s and who knows when I'll find another. Oh well I guess I'll skip it. Either way, they're out there. You just need to look for them. There's 6 within reasonable driving distance split about 50/50 between the 2005+ and pre 2005 models. If you want a specific bike, you need to be willing to travel a little. There are a few in the detroit area.
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Mar 18, 2009 20:16
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 18, 2009 22:38
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Welp. There's one way of getting rid of chicken strips. I had an RD400, with a hackjob chainguard that would do that to the left side of the rear. It was an old, scary bike, though, so I never, ever had the chance to get close to leaning over far enough to see if that had seriously compromised the tyre.
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Mar 18, 2009 23:35
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Couple things. I got front and rear stands and went to do the wheels and realized I don't have the breaker bar and large enough adapter needed for the axle nuts for the front rear. I might borrow them from a neighbor. I think Kragen might let you borrow tools so I might look into that. But otherwise what's my best approach or what should I buy? I tried a wrench but I think it's the first time they will be coming off and they're on there pretty good. How important is a torque wrench for the wheels? I do have a K&N filter apparently which doesn't look too dirty. I might buy the cleaner/oil kit that they offer. I'm almost thinking about just getting an OEM one. The previous owner said it might have a power commander but I didn't see one under the seat or anywhere else around. When I rev while in motion and let it go to normal RPMs it sort of "jolts" a bit in the front of the bike just when it goes to normal RPMs. The sprocket looks good but the bike sort of "stutters" when in low rpm/speeds and on a roll. It gets worst if I'm a hill. And the application of the throttle through a corner doesn't seem too smooth. A bit "jumpy." The chain tension seems good and the chain is in good shape/lubed. I cleaned the chain with a rag and kerosene and lubed it with DuPont teflon. How often are you guys lubricating/cleaning? Thanks in advance Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Mar 19, 2009 |
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Mar 19, 2009 06:00
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What's the consensus on the Sachs/Tomberlin Madass? I gather they're made in China now, so I'm not sure whether it's worth bothering with. OTOH, drat. There's one for sale locally and my interest is piqued. http://mohave.craigslist.org/mcy/1075770644.html Does that "never registered" part set off any alarm bells? It's got me a little skeptical, but there's relatively lax law enforcement around here, and plenty of places you could ride from without going on roads, so I dunno.
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Mar 19, 2009 10:10
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Christoff posted:How important is a torque wrench for the wheels? Pretty important and not expensive. Get the breaker bar, the torque wrench and the proper socket. The potential headaches just aren't worth it. Christoff posted:When I rev while in motion and let it go to normal RPMs it sort of "jolts" a bit in the front of the bike just when it goes to normal RPMs. Since the chain tension is ok, that might just be the fuel injection. Many fuel injected bikes are jerky around zero throttle. A power commander can make it better worse depending on how it's set and if it's actually there.  Christoff posted:I cleaned the chain with a rag and kerosene and lubed it with DuPont teflon. How often are you guys lubricating/cleaning? About every second tank of gas. By the way, the DuPont stuff isn't sold over here but I bought some universal lubricant that had PTFE in it. (It can't say "teflon" cause that's a protected brand) I'm just wondering how similar it is to the DuPont stuff, when you spray it on does it look like WD40? Thin flowing, slightly white foaming?
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Mar 19, 2009 13:04
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Ola posted:About every second tank of gas. By the way, the DuPont stuff isn't sold over here but I bought some universal lubricant that had PTFE in it. (It can't say "teflon" cause that's a protected brand) I'm just wondering how similar it is to the DuPont stuff, when you spray it on does it look like WD40? Thin flowing, slightly white foaming?
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Mar 19, 2009 16:36
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VideoTapir posted:What's the consensus on the Sachs/Tomberlin Madass? I gather they're made in China now, so I'm not sure whether it's worth bothering with. OTOH, drat. I've honestly no idea on their reliability or whatever, but I've always wanted one. Seems to be a hilarious combination of scooter and supermoto. If that were anywhere near me I'd probably call and make sure hes got the title and all that, and offer him $500 in cash after checking it out.
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Mar 19, 2009 16:44
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Christoff posted:Couple things. I've never used one on mine. It's something absurd like 80 foot pounds on most bikes, so I just use a breaker bar, get it nice and tight, and put the cotter pin in there. quote:I do have a K&N filter apparently which doesn't look too dirty. I might buy the cleaner/oil kit that they offer. I'm almost thinking about just getting an OEM one. The previous owner said it might have a power commander but I didn't see one under the seat or anywhere else around. I prefer OEM air filters and oil filters. Just personal taste. quote:When I rev while in motion and let it go to normal RPMs it sort of "jolts" a bit in the front of the bike just when it goes to normal RPMs. The sprocket looks good but the bike sort of "stutters" when in low rpm/speeds and on a roll. It gets worst if I'm a hill. And the application of the throttle through a corner doesn't seem too smooth. A bit "jumpy." The chain tension seems good and the chain is in good shape/lubed. I think half of that may be the FI on the bike, and the other half may be you just not having good throttle control yet. The response on the GSX-R is going to be a lot more sharp than it would have been on your E. Also, it's got an aftermarket system on it, but probably doesn't have a PC3, so I bet that's making it worse. Usual spots for the PC3 are under the rear seat, or over the battery. VideoTapir posted:What's the consensus on the Sachs/Tomberlin Madass? I gather they're made in China now, so I'm not sure whether it's worth bothering with. OTOH, drat. Everyone I've seen who's had one has loved it. There's a couple that are used as pitbikes at trackdays around here...they're cool as hell.
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Mar 19, 2009 17:02
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VideoTapir posted:What's the consensus on the Sachs/Tomberlin Madass? I gather they're made in China now, so I'm not sure whether it's worth bothering with. OTOH, drat. Guy living beneath me has one and loves it. He's got the 50cc version, and he's de-governed it. Said it reaches about 38mph now. I don't know if all of it is Chinese, I personally thought they had a deal with lifan for engines, but made the frames and all in home. About the registering thing: ask. They come in 50cc and 125cc. I don't about where this is coming from, but everywhere I've lived, 50cc doesn't require registration.
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Mar 19, 2009 18:07
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Bean_ posted:About the registering thing: ask. They come in 50cc and 125cc. I don't about where this is coming from, but everywhere I've lived, 50cc doesn't require registration. AZ requires you to have a motorcycle license for anything that isn't an actual moped, but a lot of people don't know this...and I don't think it is vigorously enforced. Not sure about registration, but in that case I wouldn't be surprised.
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Mar 19, 2009 19:28
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Thanks for the responses guys. I know it definitely had a power commander at some point. And unless they really hid it it's not there under the seat or on/around the battery. I might look into getting one. I remember hearing it was almost a requirement if you got a K&N filter and such.
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Mar 19, 2009 21:39
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I had some trouble getting my bike into first from neutral today. Usually when I'm at a light for a while, I'll shift to neutral and when its time to go, go back to 1st. A couple of times I stomped on the shifter and eventually it would go to first, but it wouldn't be easy like normal. What would this usually mean, and what kind of maintenance am I looking at?
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Mar 19, 2009 21:42
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Never. EVER. shift into neutral at lights. You need to be ready to get away at any time. Edit: So I didn't answer your question. You didn't mention what kind of bike. Or how many miles on it. If there IS a problem, it's a multi hundred dollar fix. Don't worry about it. Just don't go into neutral. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Mar 19, 2009 |
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Mar 19, 2009 21:44
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^^^ Good advice from Nero, don't listen to mine. Unless of course you meant your bike was parked in your driveway when you couldn't get it into first.fnkels posted:I had some trouble getting my bike into first from neutral today. Usually when I'm at a light for a while, I'll shift to neutral and when its time to go, go back to 1st. You might try rolling the bike a few inches forward or back. Sometimes it won't shift cleanly if the guts aren't lined up correctly.
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Mar 19, 2009 21:47
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Yes, usually I'm in first at stops. Its just if I'm at a particularly long light, and there are a couple cars behind me that I'll shift to neutral. I have a 2002 Suzuki GS500 approaching 10000 miles. The only thing that concerns me is that I never had a problem going from neutral to first before whether in my driveway, on the road, or in a parking lot before.
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Mar 19, 2009 21:58
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fnkels posted:Yes, usually I'm in first at stops. Its just if I'm at a particularly long light, and there are a couple cars behind me that I'll shift to neutral. I had that happen occasionally on my GS500. Its most likely like jdonz said, the gears aren't lined up quite right. If you keep pressure on the shift lever and let out the clutch slightly it should latch into place no problem.
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Mar 19, 2009 22:15
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| # ? May 16, 2024 00:06 |
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Not sure if it's some sort of endemic problem with the GS500, but I definitely had the same experience with mine. The 'roll it a short ways forward or back while trying to engage first' technique always cured it of its stubborn resolve to shift.
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Mar 19, 2009 23:19
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