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I need a new chain for my 04 F4i, where's a good place to buy that online? I already have the $100 chain breaker/riviter installer tool I just want a good stock 525 chain. Do i really need to replace the sprockets too? They seem to be in good condition but they do have 28k miles on them. O-ring? X-ring? what should I get? I dont need anythign flashy just something decent that will last a while and not cost too much.
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Mar 20, 2009 01:21
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 01:39
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Its ratty old 2 At-1 yamaha 2 stroke time! The Fueltank has been sandblasted ( I didnt do it...) and is all nice and rust free inside. Hence its got sand in it! Besides sticking it under the tap with the Petcock remoed and hoping nature takes its course, Is there any better way to remove the sand?
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Mar 20, 2009 02:42
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dietcokefiend posted:
Is there no clutch adjustment on your bike? I can adjust my clutch at like three different spots on mine... and I can easily make my clutch slip by fiddling with them. Check the adjustment at the cable on the lever, where the cable meets the hardware on the engine casing, and then there's a separate adjustment I can make there as well.
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Mar 20, 2009 02:54
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My roommate dropped my bike moving it around the driveway. Luckily the mirror hit some soft earth and was the only thing damaged. Anyway now he owes me some new mirrors. Are bar end mirrors considered more or less safe than regular mirrors?
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Mar 20, 2009 02:56
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IAMKOREA posted:My roommate dropped my bike moving it around the driveway. Luckily the mirror hit some soft earth and was the only thing damaged. He should know better than touching another mans bike. Or where you in the way?
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Mar 20, 2009 03:15
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Yeah I was in the way, really it was just bad luck.
IAMKOREA fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 03:19
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Mmm first bike runs fine for me at the end of summer, but the battery craps out. Buy a new one, had dad run fuel stabilizer through it(also low speed dump it) and set that baby away for winter. Break it out and it seems as though the cylinders aren't making enough compression to draw fuel from the tank. Also got gas all over the fuel tank which was repainted by previous over and immediately stripped away the paint. Spring break all I wanted was to ride my bike now I get to go back to school mad. Say it comes down to messing with the internals of the engine, my dad owns an auto shop and I'm kinda handy, do I risk trying to fix this compression myself? I figure I'd throw in a question.
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Mar 20, 2009 03:42
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I am having headlight issues with my EX250. I've made it very much not stock by removing the upper and lower plastics, headlight, speedo, mirrors, etc. I replaced the headlight with a 7" bucket I found for relatively cheap on the internets ($60?). It looks something like this now. The headlight seemingly plugs in just like the stock one did, so I didn't mess with the wiring harness at all for that. With the engine not running (after its been started once and the power hasn't been turned off) it works great. With the engine running, it flickers (goes dimmer and then returns to normal brightness) with change in RPM. If I remove the headlight from the bucket and hold it while the engine is running, it does not flicker. When it flickers, the high beam indicator light comes on, seemingly opposite the headlight (dimmer headlight -> brighter high beam indicator). I seem to get pretty steady voltage (14V) from another point on the wiring harness. Am I dealing with a loose/crappy wire in the wiring harness leading to the headlight? Is vibration doing something screwy to the bulb? I don't think its a charging system issue because of how it stops happening when I remove the lens assembly from the bucket. Any thoughts on what I can look for to fix this? 
sklnd fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 03:53
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Kaptainballistik posted:Its ratty old 2 At-1 yamaha 2 stroke time! Wow, really? Blasting the inside of a tank is like the worst thing you can do. I guess now that its done, just try to flush it out as best you can. You have an excellent case for running an inline filter now.
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Mar 20, 2009 04:30
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 05:12
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fnkels posted:I had some trouble getting my bike into first from neutral today. Usually when I'm at a light for a while, I'll shift to neutral and when its time to go, go back to 1st. too much oil. seriously, look it up. Do you have a sight glass or a dip stick? If you have a sight glass, stand the bike up straight(maybe with the help of a friend) and see if the oil is at the line or above it.
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Mar 20, 2009 05:24
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dietcokefiend posted:I have 2 adjustment points, one at the lever and another at the clutch cover. The cable is stack when not used. I have the recommended 1cm of play at the handle and some wiggle at the clutch cover. What sort of oil do you have in it?
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Mar 20, 2009 08:08
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 14:51
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Would these be some good, cheap bar-end mirrors? I actually like the range of view on the stock CB750 lollipops, but I'd like a lower profile: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings/trvl_gear/item/cateye_mtb_bar_end_mirror.htm Another option is the third eye... you can tell I'm going super cheap by going with bicycle mirrors over motorcycle ones. $150 for a pair of mirrors? No thanks.
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Mar 20, 2009 20:42
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To conclude my headlight dimming saga, I swapped the bulb from the stock headlight into the new one, and the dimming seems to have gone away.  I'll be testing this more throughly tomorrow.
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Mar 21, 2009 03:34
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God-damned Pilates posted:Would these be some good, cheap bar-end mirrors? I actually like the range of view on the stock CB750 lollipops, but I'd like a lower profile: http://www.d2moto.com/Items/m040-bl...irrors (Street) Here's a set for $30 that I've been considering giving a try.
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Mar 21, 2009 03:54
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 22, 2009 22:47
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dietcokefiend posted:can the rotor be removed and doused with brake cleaner to make good again? Yes. Also, don't get that poo poo on your paint (or skin). 
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Mar 22, 2009 22:54
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dietcokefiend posted:
Get the cheapest one, it'll be fine. EBC and Vesrah are both good companies. That is, if it's not a problem with the adjustment (which it doesn't sound like from your description).
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Mar 23, 2009 00:03
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Phat_Albert posted:Wow, really? Blasting the inside of a tank is like the worst thing you can do. One fuel filter off Dad's RX7, Catching crud like a champion! ( Video tonite...) Bit of a pain riding a bike with Gel Cell on your lap. ( The wiring has been tried by every man and his dog...) So whats the target idle speed for a 71 model Yamaha 125? ( Carby probably needs a better clean and a soak in carby cleaner overnight, But its Idling. Idling high, But Idling!) EDIT: While im on batteries...Is a Gel cell better to get than a conventional Lead acid? Kaptainballistik fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Mar 23, 2009 |
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Mar 23, 2009 00:24
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So I went to go get my bike ready for spring today and encountered a host of  problems. Bike in question is a 1982 Honda CM250C.First off: I replaced the starter motor (which was bad) with a new one. Now, when I press the starter button, it sounds like the starter motor is turning the chain, which is an improvement, but it doesn't do anything. It sounds almost like a saw, as if the chain is not connected to anything. Second: My choke lever is no longer able to get pulled all the way up - it gets stuck about halfway and fails to open the choke. I connected it properly - I think - and it just doesn't pull the choke open.
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Mar 23, 2009 00:24
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 23, 2009 01:01
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dietcokefiend posted:The problem ended up kinda being adjustment. The clutch cable end slipped out of the holder and jammed against the holder making it super tight and partially depressed. Slipping it back in and tightening it a bit should hopefully stop it from doing that again. Even better.
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Mar 23, 2009 01:02
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At the dealerships, when I go to buy parts, they look at cross sections of motorcycles with each piece of the part labeled. How would I access something like this on my home computer? Edit: NVM, i googled it and found a website. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Mar 23, 2009 |
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Mar 23, 2009 01:35
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So, the part I need to replace is listed here: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/cycleparts/Kawasaki_OEM/KawasakiMC.asp?Type=13&A=194&B=45 39067 COOLER, OIL The problem is it's almost $370. What happened is there is a cavity in the side that leaks coolant, and spills it all over. It apparently rusted from being left outside for over a year before being purchased by my friend. Is it possible to just weld the cavity shut? It's a small hole.
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Mar 23, 2009 02:53
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Jack the Smack posted:So, the part I need to replace is listed here: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/cycleparts/Kawasaki_OEM/KawasakiMC.asp?Type=13&A=194&B=45 Buy a used one on ebay for 1/10th the price? Z3n fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Mar 23, 2009 |
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Mar 23, 2009 03:33
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 23, 2009 04:17
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Yes, some factory springs are progressively wound. Dietcokefiend. It's WELL PAST time you made a thread for your bike. You've got two threads worth of questions in this one. ;-)
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Mar 23, 2009 07:24
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Nerobro posted:Dietcokefiend. It's WELL PAST time you made a thread for your bike. You've got two threads worth of questions in this one. ;-) I was going to say this. It sounds like you're having a hell of a time with the poor thing 
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Mar 23, 2009 12:00
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dietcokefiend posted:Taking apart my forks now and noticed something interesting. I current have progressive springs installed. Did Kawasaki ever put these in from the factory? I am like the 3rd or 4th owner of the bike so no idea what has gone on over the years. Too bad you tore apart your forks just for fork seals. I would have bet you could have just cleaned the seals.
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Mar 23, 2009 14:30
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 23, 2009 14:44
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Does anyone know anything about the late seventies Yamaha XS1100s? The father-in-law is apparently trying to one up me now that I've got my KZ650 in order and is looking to replace his Goldwing with a 1978 XS1100. The specs look good but I'm not sure on reliability, handling, etc.
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Mar 23, 2009 17:36
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I remember reading a review, and it was a pig of a bike. It's a 4 cylinder version of the XS750, and the conversion didn't go well.
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Mar 23, 2009 18:27
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I guess I'll be more specific so people can help more. My original starter on my '82 CM250C didn't work at all. I would press the starter button, and the headlight would dim, the solenoid would click, and the starter motor would not respond. I recently replaced the starter motor with a new one by opening te crankcase cover, popping out the old motor, and putting in the new one, and then connecting the original sprocket and chain to that. Now, when I start the bike, the starter motor sounds like it's turning the chain, or turning something quite quickly, but it fails to turn the engine. So, it's an improvement over not doing anything, but obviously still not good. What should I look for? After my own preliminary research people have said it could be the starter clutch or the flywheel causing it. I have no idea what else it could be. At this point I'd just prefer a kickstart on the drat thing.
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Mar 23, 2009 19:06
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Does it start when bump started? If it does then you've narrowed it down to the starter. If it doesn't then there's more likely something else wrong in the engine.
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Mar 23, 2009 19:08
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Yeah it bump starts just fine. That's how I rode it through November, and boy did I look funny running a bike around in parking lots of random places. I also made sure it wasn't the battery by giving the bike a jump from my car while trying to start it.
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Mar 23, 2009 19:09
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I guess I'll be more specific so people can help more. Sounds like the starter clutch could be toast, or it could not be meshing correctly with the gear(s) on the crank. If you rotate the engine by hand, does the chain and sprocket that goes to the engine move?
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Mar 23, 2009 20:10
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edit: nm
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Mar 24, 2009 00:19
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start a new frakking thread dietcokefiend AUGH
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Mar 24, 2009 00:29
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