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My 99 has been running really rough lately, so I opened up the throttle and swabbed my finger in there and it came out black. There was an unsettling amount of gunk on my finger and that was just from the other side of the valve, I don't even want to know what's inside the manifold Is this something that I could do easily on my own? I really don't want to take the manifold apart completely if I don't want to, I'm a bit of a novice. How easy is it to clean, and if it sucks what do mechanics usually charge to do it?
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Mar 19, 2009 18:37
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You could try spraying some SeaFoam Deep Creep all up in there and letting it sit for a while.
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Mar 19, 2009 19:34
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Got my car back running again last night at 3am after a week and a half. Its just pissing coolant now so I get to fix that when I get home, I'm 99% sure its coming from the water pump outlet gasket and the rear lower radiator hose so I'm replacing the gasket when I get home and gonna see if i can get that hose to work. Here's a time lapse video from when we pulled the short block out last thursday forgot to make one last night when we put it back together.
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Mar 19, 2009 19:39
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GoblinBomb posted:You could try spraying some SeaFoam Deep Creep all up in there and letting it sit for a while. Okay, I've heard good stuff about that actually. How can I remove the most amount of goo this way? Should I maybe get a toothbrush or something like that?
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Mar 19, 2009 21:24
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BusinessWallet posted:My 99 has been running really rough lately, so I opened up the throttle and swabbed my finger in there and it came out black. There was an unsettling amount of gunk on my finger and that was just from the other side of the valve, I don't even want to know what's inside the manifold Just Do it yourself. I did it the other day on my '00 and it was a piece of cake. If you can turn a wrench and a wipe with a rag you can do it. You'll be amazed the amount of crap that you'll find in there too. Seriously, I can't express how drat easy this is. It takes about an hour max and most of that is remembering where the parts go, 10 minutes to put back together. Be careful when taking the top of the manifold off I bent the poo poo out of the metal gasket and had to buy a new one. GoblinBomb posted:You could try spraying some SeaFoam Deep Creep all up in there and letting it sit for a while. There are some pretty tiny holes that you can't really get to without using a q-tip or something. Plus, I wouldn't want any more of that crap in my engine than I needed. There was a thick layer of crud in mine. AkrisD fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 04:03
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You're probably right, the Deep Creep would loosen it up just enough that it would all go into the combustion chambers. Question: If I can get a guy to sell me his Jackson Racing header and Flyin' Miata n/a exhaust for pretty cheap is it worth it? I know n/a is a worthless route, but my stock exhaust is very buzzy and beat up (lots of rash along the bottom, a couple small farty holes). I could even re-use the header if I end up supercharging the engine.
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Mar 20, 2009 04:17
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What's a used stock known-good radiator worth? I've got one I need to unload. Like $50 tops?
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Mar 20, 2009 07:37
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Car is fully up and running again, seems faster than before too since the timing is dead on now. Just have a cracked exhaust manifold to deal with sometime now.Hog Obituary posted:What's a used stock known-good radiator worth? I've got one I need to unload. Like $50 tops? If you're lucky, I wouldn't buy a used Miata radiator unless it was a all metal one or the end tanks were still black.
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Mar 20, 2009 07:41
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Hog Obituary posted:What's a used stock known-good radiator worth? I've got one I need to unload. Like $50 tops? Unless the plastic is black and not green then maybe $50. Otherwise it could crack without any warning like mine did.
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Mar 20, 2009 09:07
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Ebay Timing Belt/Water Pump Kit Would you trust something like this? It's much cheaper than the other timing belt kits with pulleys I've seen, almost frighteningly so, and it includes a waterpump kit as well.
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Mar 20, 2009 17:09
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GoblinBomb posted:Ebay Timing Belt/Water Pump Kit A lot of people on miata.net have had good luck with those. My friend is installing one himself next week. If I had known about it when I did mine I probably would have bought that and saved like 100 bucks.
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Mar 20, 2009 17:37
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GoblinBomb posted:Ebay Timing Belt/Water Pump Kit 
destructo fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 18:04
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I'm looking for a mk1 MX-5, and found this one locally. It looks like a good deal, but is there anything I should look out for (apart from the list of stuff from Maiata.net)? Mazda MX5 1.8 S-Special, mohair hood, glass rear screen & lots of extras The guy does a pretty good description, you have to give him that quote:This really nice and rather rare 1994 Mazda MX5 1.8 S-Special limited edition in Brilliant Black with black cloth interior, has covered 101000 miles and has only had 2 previous owners. The S Special Edition model was introduced in 1993 and features lots of factory fitted special parts as standard, making it a real driver's car: these include a yellow engine strut brace, a Torsen Limited Slip Differential and a Bilstein suspension set up inc thicker anti-roll bars and a rear under-body brace. Other standard S Special features are stainless steel sill tread plates and door speaker surrounds, electric windows, power steering and unusually, this car also has electrically adjustable mirrors. Being a 1.8, it has bigger brake discs and revised suspension settings as compared to the standard 1.6. This all makes a huge difference as it handles noticeably better than the standard car and the 130bhp engine means it's a fair bit quicker too.
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Mar 20, 2009 20:13
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edit: maybe it is different in Britain.
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Mar 20, 2009 20:59
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Jesus, that's barely over $3k US? That would be gone yesterday in most of the country here.
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Mar 20, 2009 22:46
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You'd be a fool to pass that one over, it looks absolutely fantastic.
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Mar 20, 2009 23:22
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Just called, I'm going to look at it tomorrow afternoon. He's got someone else coming in first thing in the morning, though, so it might be gone by then. I hope it isn't gone and drives as good as it looks! edit: apparently this guy buys/imports/sells MX5s as a side job - he's got a pretty interesting other option that I'll look at tomorrow quote:Then I have a 1991 Mazda MX5 1.6 UK car. Its a Limited Edition Anniversary model, introduced to celebrate the first year of sales of the MX5 in the UK and as such, was built in very limited numbers (only 250) and to a very high specification. Of the 250 built, 20 were sent abroad: each car was individually numbered, with a brass plaque fixed to the dashboard showing its build no. That'll make it difficult to choose if they're both there 
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Mar 21, 2009 00:04
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 I saw this Miata in NJ. It sounded like it had straight pipes, and it only had one fender left.
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Mar 21, 2009 00:16
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loving 18 year old Mazda plastic. Armrest was fine when i got the car 20k ago, then it got one crack some months back and this is how bad it is now. It obviously does not like me resting my elbow on it.
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Mar 21, 2009 03:19
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wzm posted:
That thing's awesome, and I hope you took more pictures.
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Mar 23, 2009 02:21
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Anyone know a good mechanic in DC? The wife's miata failed its inspection thanks to a broken O2 sensor (might have been the EGR too if that's a separate one) and I think replacing them is beyond my limited skill- and tool-base.
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Mar 23, 2009 13:51
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Dr JonboyG posted:Anyone know a good mechanic in DC? The wife's miata failed its inspection thanks to a broken O2 sensor (might have been the EGR too if that's a separate one) and I think replacing them is beyond my limited skill- and tool-base. Can't help you on the mechanic recommendation, but tool wise if you have a ratchet and some means of lifting the car safely, the O2 sensor should be no more than a single wiring connection and getting the old one out / putting the new one in. You can rent O2 sensor sockets at Autozone, they're just large sockets with a slit down the side for the wiring. I've never done one on a Miata so I don't know if you even need to bother lifting the car or not. EGR shouldn't need any special tools, but the actual EGR valve should be on the top of the engine and fairly simple to replace.
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Mar 23, 2009 14:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Can't help you on the mechanic recommendation, but tool wise if you have a ratchet and some means of lifting the car safely, the O2 sensor should be no more than a single wiring connection and getting the old one out / putting the new one in. You can rent O2 sensor sockets at Autozone, they're just large sockets with a slit down the side for the wiring. I've never done one on a Miata so I don't know if you even need to bother lifting the car or not. Yeah, the O2 sensor is accessible from the driver's side front wheel well, so it's probably easiest to lift the car and take the tire off.
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Mar 23, 2009 17:21
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I'm actually going to change my own O2 sensor as soon as the car cools down, I will trip report but it should be a snap.
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Mar 23, 2009 19:44
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If I buy a Craigslist Miata with 100k miles, I can assume the timing belt has been done at some point, right? What is the worst case scenario if I buy one that seems to be in good mechanical shape, but then the belt goes while I'm driving it? These are non-interference type engines, if I recall correctly. I know the timing belt's due again at 120k, just trying to keep service at easy to remember intervals. I've read a lot about the CAS O ring problems, are they still valid with NBs or did Mazda fix it?
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Mar 23, 2009 20:46
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It's certainly possible the timing belt hasn't been changed at 100k because there's really no reason to do it at 60k other than "Mazda says so". You're correct, it is a non-interference engine (does this apply to later NBs with the variable valve timing and higher compression?) and as such the worst case scenario is that the belt snaps and you get a tow to a shop to fix it. I just did mine at 100k and I have no intentions of touching the timing belt again until 200k, assuming I haven't sold the car at that point. Of course, if you go with this maintenance schedule, don't do what I tried to do and cheap out with a belt only - at minimum, do the belt, idler, tensioner, and water pump. I held off on the cam and crank seals personally. The NB uses a cam sensor on the front of the valvecover instead of the back, and it doesn't have any sealing problems that I've experienced.
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Mar 23, 2009 20:56
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GoblinBomb posted:I'm actually going to change my own O2 sensor as soon as the car cools down, I will trip report but it should be a snap. It was! I had to hit the old sensor with a bit of penetrating oil because it wouldn't move, so it'll probably smoke up a tiny bit, but otherwise very easy. I bought the Bosch 11027 universal one-wire sensor, and the crimp connector was pretty crappy, so I cut it off and soldered and heat-shrink-tubed it. Edit: I did this all from above, no lifting or wheel removal necessary.
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Mar 24, 2009 00:07
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I just got my 95 emissions tested today (passed no problem at all, hurrah). But when I was on the dyno, something tripped my ABS light on the dash. The same thing happened two years ago when I got emissions tested. These are the only two times it's ever happened in the 2.5 years I've owned the car, so I'm really not worried about it. But now I've been trying to come up with why that light gets tripped on a dyno. The best I can come up with is it having something to do with the front and back wheels moving at very different speeds, but it's just a guess. Anyone here know a bit more definitively?
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Mar 24, 2009 01:29
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Guinness posted:I just got my 95 emissions tested today (passed no problem at all, hurrah). But when I was on the dyno, something tripped my ABS light on the dash. The same thing happened two years ago when I got emissions tested. These are the only two times it's ever happened in the 2.5 years I've owned the car, so I'm really not worried about it. I'm pretty sure that's the exact reason. There are speed sensors on all the wheels, and ABS only reacts when the wheel speeds are far enough apart that the ABS computer decides 'something ain't right, i better act" ... and presumably the dyno operator stepped on the brake at some point.
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Mar 24, 2009 02:16
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GoblinBomb posted:It was! I had to hit the old sensor with a bit of penetrating oil because it wouldn't move, so it'll probably smoke up a tiny bit, but otherwise very easy. I bought the Bosch 11027 universal one-wire sensor, and the crimp connector was pretty crappy, so I cut it off and soldered and heat-shrink-tubed it. A ratchet I have, a soldering iron I might have, a heat shrink tuber I have no idea what that even is (other than something that uses heat to shrink a tube round something I guess). No way of lifting up the car though. I'll have a look and see if my Haynes manual is helpful, but I don't want to get halfway through and find I've rendered the car immobile and end up having to pay 3x what it might have cost in the first place if I got someone who knew what they were doing.
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Mar 24, 2009 02:36
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Hog Obituary posted:I'm pretty sure that's the exact reason. There are speed sensors on all the wheels, and ABS only reacts when the wheel speeds are far enough apart that the ABS computer decides 'something ain't right, i better act" ... and presumably the dyno operator stepped on the brake at some point. I was the one behind the driver seat, and I never touched the brake pedal until the end. It's not that the ABS kicked in, but the light lit up and stayed lit as though it was like "hey I don't like something". Unless you mean there's a brake on the dyno itself? But regardless, it still make sense that the ABS sensors seeing the rear wheels moving at the equivalent of 25-30 mph and the fronts at 0 could cause it to get confused.
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Mar 24, 2009 02:42
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Dr JonboyG posted:a heat shrink tuber I have no idea what that even is (other than something that uses heat to shrink a tube round something I guess) Heat shrink is a plastic that comes in preformed tubes. You put it around one of the wires you're working with before you solder them, then solder the joint. Then you slide the heat shrink down to the joint and use heat (like a heat gun or a match) to shrink the tube, so it forms a watertight seal around the joint.
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Mar 24, 2009 03:31
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Yeah, I got a Harbor Freight heat gun for 10.99, you could probably use a hair dryer, or as IOC said, a match. The Bosch universal sensor comes with a piece of heat shrink. Dr JonboyG posted:I'll have a look and see if my Haynes manual is helpful, but I don't want to get halfway through and find I've rendered the car immobile and end up having to pay 3x what it might have cost in the first place if I got someone who knew what they were doing. It was very very easy. It would be even easier with an OE-type sensor, since they have the proper connector, which eliminates the need for any crimping, soldering, or heat-gunning. But the OE-type sensor was 5 times as expensive. On my 90 I could reach everything without raising the car. What year is yours? I'd give you the part numbers, but if it's not a 90-93 they'll be useless. And the sensors for 94-on are significantly more expensive.
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Mar 24, 2009 04:20
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Guinness posted:I was the one behind the driver seat, and I never touched the brake pedal until the end. It's not that the ABS kicked in, but the light lit up and stayed lit as though it was like "hey I don't like something". Presumably the ECU would see it as a sensor failure and throw the warning light. Pull your codes and find out.
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Mar 24, 2009 06:03
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Guinness posted:I was the one behind the driver seat, and I never touched the brake pedal until the end. It's not that the ABS kicked in, but the light lit up and stayed lit as though it was like "hey I don't like something".
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Mar 24, 2009 06:11
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fatman1683 posted:Presumably the ECU would see it as a sensor failure and throw the warning light. Pull your codes and find out. There's no code to pull. Restarting the car clears it, and I don't have a dyno to reproduce it.  I'm not concerned about it at all, just curious is all. Oh well, guess it'll remain somewhat of a mystery.
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Mar 24, 2009 09:10
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Guinness posted:There's no code to pull. Restarting the car clears it, and I don't have a dyno to reproduce it. You don't need a dyno. Put the rear end on jackstands and chock the front wheels.
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Mar 24, 2009 21:06
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GoblinBomb posted:Yeah, I got a Harbor Freight heat gun for 10.99, you could probably use a hair dryer, or as IOC said, a match. The Bosch universal sensor comes with a piece of heat shrink. 1996
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Mar 24, 2009 23:55
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Dr JonboyG posted:1996 I got my bosch o2 sensor off ebay, one of the crimping ones. I've got a 1.6 so it was only like 18 bucks. My friend has a 1.8, its like 75 bucks for his car.
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Mar 25, 2009 00:04
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What size is the little twisty bolt thing that holds the jack down in the trunk? Mine got all bent up after following stupid M.net advice when changing my brakes. edit: forgot, it's a 2000. AkrisD fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Mar 25, 2009 |
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Mar 25, 2009 05:11
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