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Well, we could just petition sigtrap to rename this the dietcokefiend question megathread.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 00:40 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 02:37 |
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8ender posted:Does anyone know anything about the late seventies Yamaha XS1100s? That's a move down. The late 80's weren't Yamahas best days and the XS bikes had cooling problems. The inner cylinders tended to overheat, the 750's were worse but I have talked to a couple of riders who hated their XS1100's.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 04:46 |
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Gnomad posted:That's a move down. The late 80's weren't Yamahas best days and the XS bikes had cooling problems. The inner cylinders tended to overheat, the 750's were worse but I have talked to a couple of riders who hated their XS1100's. Arrgh. He bought it anyways. Looks like he's going to keep both. Its a low miles XS and is nearly perfect except for the tires. He got it for around $1000. I guess we'll see how it is when we tear into it.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 05:06 |
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Just be glad he didn't get a Virago, what with their infamous starter drives. I do seem to remember the 1100 XS's having some kind of transmission design flaw. The second gear always goes out or something like that.
bobula fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Mar 24, 2009 |
# ? Mar 24, 2009 06:23 |
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bobula posted:Just be glad he didn't get a Virago, what with their infamous starter drives. I do seem to remember the 1100 XS's having some kind of transmission design flaw. The second gear always goes out or something like that. I liked the Virago, and the starters can be fixed. They shouldn't have to be fixed, but that's the hand that Yammy dealt them. Maybe I should clarify. I liked the pre-cruiser Virago, when I was more of a standard with a (for then) high-tech V twin. I've ridden a couple, they weren't bad for a bike of that vintage, and can be made into fabulous cafe bikes. The second gear problem is practically endemic to Yamaha streetbikes. Google "undercut gears" for the fix.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 06:49 |
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Well the only saving grace is that aside from the occasional spirited takeoff he is pretty gentle with bikes, or at least he is with the wing. If there is overheating or gear issues hopefully he wont run into them. Hes bringing it home tomorrow and then we get to tear into it. Coming right off the completion of my KZ650 I'm pretty happy to have another project bike in the fleet to keep the wrenches turning. Also as a side bonus the Yamaha dealer he bought it from is a new small dealer in the area and they seem like really nice guys. They're putting my tires on for $30 a pop as well. 8ender fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Mar 24, 2009 |
# ? Mar 24, 2009 12:10 |
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Gnomad posted:The second gear problem is practically endemic to motorcycles. Google "undercut gears" for the fix. Fixed. People who don't know how to shift gently caress up second on just about every bike out there.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 15:40 |
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Z3n posted:Fixed. People who don't know how to shift gently caress up second on just about every bike out there. I have to ask, how do you gently caress up shifting second gear?
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 15:43 |
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8ender posted:I have to ask, how do you gently caress up shifting second gear? Not enough clutch combined with no rev matching, mashing it into gear, not engaging it positively enough to get it to really mesh so it pops out. Stuff like that. Most of the time, it's idiots shifting by slamming on the lever rather than finessing the clutch, throttle, and lever to get it to go in smoothly. A little clunking is normal, the crash of gear on gear is not. Usually people who shift like that can be detected from the sidewalk. It's also worth noting that second gear is the biggest jump gearwise, and on the kawasakis, there's a positive neutral finder that you have to shift through. So 2nd is particularly sensative to poor shifting technique. Plus people who are launching off the line will usually flog it flat into second with zero mechanical sympathy. There are a handful of bikes over the years that have had really weak transmissions, and they've usually been revised within a year or 2. 2 bikes that I'm aware of legitimately potential transmission failure that's not the fault of the rider were the Kawasaki 93-94 (95?) ZX-6E had that problem and the 01-02? R6. Both of those bikes got revised transmissions within a model year or 2 with an additional dog on the transmission gears. T595 engined triumphs had glass transmissions for some engine #s as well, which was fixed by a revision later. The triumph could potentially frag any gear in that engine # range, usually on a normal shift. Even so, I've seen plenty of early Es, R6s and T595s that were well cared for that have many, many miles on them and still have second gear. My zx6e, after me learning to clutchless shift on it, had toasted 3rd, 5th, and 6th, and wouldn't shift at over 13k RPM, but still had second. When someone says their bike has a second gear issue after 5-15k, it's almost assured that they have no loving clue how to shift a motorcycle. Edit: gently caress, Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Mar 24, 2009 |
# ? Mar 24, 2009 17:13 |
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Z3n posted:Edit: gently caress, No no, that was good. I personally don't consider myself gifted with a magic foot for shifting but I've never had trouble with shifting to second. Just rev, clutch in, toe up till its in gear, clutch out. I don't understand how someone can gently caress that up but then again I don't like to abuse my bikes.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 18:24 |
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8ender posted:No no, that was good. I personally don't consider myself gifted with a magic foot for shifting but I've never had trouble with shifting to second. Just rev, clutch in, toe up till its in gear, clutch out. I don't understand how someone can gently caress that up but then again I don't like to abuse my bikes. The problem is that you get people with limited experience or no desire to improve their shifting techniques flogging their bikes in the stoplight GP, or doing 2 gear burnouts. Normal shifting like you describe is fine. Clutchless shifting, done correctly is also fine. It's halfass shifting, or poor clutchless shifting that causes abuse. It's also a lot easier to learn to clutchless shift higher gears, as the difference in RPM from gear to gear is lower. First to second can be upwards of 6k+ RPM in change on an I4, and it requires a little more skill to pull cleanly than something like 4th to 5th, which is close to a 2-3k RPM change. Hell, these days I even use the clutch on the track. The twin doesn't rev fast enough for me to really get comfortable with blips at high RPM on downshifts, so I use the clutch instead. Upshifts, I'll usually tap the clutch out of habit.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 18:45 |
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Z3n posted:Hell, these days I even use the clutch on the track. The twin doesn't rev fast enough for me to really get comfortable with blips at high RPM on downshifts, so I use the clutch instead. Upshifts, I'll usually tap the clutch out of habit. The gears on my 66' YDS are like butter and I can clutchless shift just by putting a little pressure on the lever and it will slide into the next gear when it wants to. The 77' KZ not so much so I stick to using the clutch.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 19:06 |
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8ender posted:The gears on my 66' YDS are like butter and I can clutchless shift just by putting a little pressure on the lever and it will slide into the next gear when it wants to. The 77' KZ not so much so I stick to using the clutch. The 75 CB200 that we use as a trainer...it's the sweetest shifting bike ever. Probably because it's crazy overbuilt. My track SV shifts pretty sweetly as well, probably due to the bearings in the shift arm. Seriously, if nothing else, upgrading to rearsets (or shift arms with bearings in them) is awesome for that.
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# ? Mar 24, 2009 19:28 |
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What's all this I hear about new tires. Belt sander, scrubbing 'em, etc. Go easy on them for 50-100 miles? I've just been taking it easy and doing S-turns and such when I'm in my neighborhood.
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 03:49 |
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Back in the day they used to use some sort of greasy release agent when they made tires so something needed to be done to get it off. Hence sanding, burnouts, acetone, chants to the undergods. These days there's no need but people still like to do it for some reason. I do what you do. Some slow S turns and a few moderate starts and stops and call it good. The biggest thing is going from square old lovely tires to new round ones. I have almost steered my bike into the ground because I was used to wrenching the bars to get the drat thing to tip in.
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 04:01 |
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According to my detailed research (Google search)Michellin posted:Thank you for your email. We appreciate the opportunity to serve you. Pirelli posted:Hello
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 05:40 |
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I love when companies send a real, genuinely insightful reply to a question about their products
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 12:22 |
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8ender posted:No no, that was good. I personally don't consider myself gifted with a magic foot for shifting but I've never had trouble with shifting to second. Just rev, clutch in, toe up till its in gear, clutch out. I don't understand how someone can gently caress that up but then again I don't like to abuse my bikes. Why would you rev the engine or attempt rev-matching while shifting up? Edit: And why rev before putting the clutch in?
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 14:29 |
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Why would you rev the engine or attempt rev-matching while shifting up? Sorry I wasn't clear. I meant rev as in turning the throttle normally until its time to shift up, nothing fancy. On downshifts I'll pull the clutch in, downshift, and blip the throttle before letting the clutch out.
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 14:40 |
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Does anyone know of any good techniques for cleaning electrical contacts? I'm getting into the detail work on my KZ project and right now I'm just cleaning them with a small file and sandpaper. I feel like there should be a better way. The bike has some old fashioned fuses that I'm planning on replacing with a modern ATC type fuse box, but this doesn't solve the problem of all the old bullet connectors.
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 15:08 |
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8ender posted:Does anyone know of any good techniques for cleaning electrical contacts? I'm getting into the detail work on my KZ project and right now I'm just cleaning them with a small file and sandpaper. I feel like there should be a better way. Brass brush on a dremel, it'll save you hours.
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 15:26 |
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8ender posted:Does anyone know of any good techniques for cleaning electrical contacts? I'm getting into the detail work on my KZ project and right now I'm just cleaning them with a small file and sandpaper. I feel like there should be a better way. Get some Electrical Contact Cleaner spray at an auto parts store and spray the poo poo out of it.
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 17:15 |
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Biekwiki seems to be dead, are there any alternatives?
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# ? Mar 25, 2009 18:04 |
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Some people say you should avoid using soap as lubricant when changing tires due to its corrosive effect. Tire specific lubricants are unavailable in my area. Is soap (dishwashing stuff mixed with water or windex type) so tried and true I should just go for it? Maybe use my teflon stuff instead? Other household stuff usable?
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# ? Mar 26, 2009 21:17 |
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Ola posted:Some people say you should avoid using soap as lubricant when changing tires due to its corrosive effect. Tire specific lubricants are unavailable in my area. Is soap (dishwashing stuff mixed with water or windex type) so tried and true I should just go for it? Maybe use my teflon stuff instead? Other household stuff usable? That's the most retarded thing I've ever heard. Soap is fine.
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# ? Mar 26, 2009 21:51 |
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Ola posted:Some people say you should avoid using soap as lubricant when changing tires due to its corrosive effect. Tire specific lubricants are unavailable in my area. Is soap (dishwashing stuff mixed with water or windex type) so tried and true I should just go for it? Maybe use my teflon stuff instead? Other household stuff usable? Soap if fine. Whatever you do don't use any kind of lubricant that wont dry up. A guy in our area died because a shop used some oil to put a tire on his Goldwing. He hit the brakes at high speed and the tire spun on the rim tearing the valve stem out. The tire deflated almost instantly, and he went down hard.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 02:47 |
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8ender posted:Soap if fine. Whatever you do don't use any kind of lubricant that wont dry up. Wait... That doesn't make any sense. I could see the tire rotating on the rim, which is bad, but how did it tear the valve stem out? The valve stem is usually mounted in the middle of the tire. That's not to mention the loving of a shop using OIL to mount a loving tire.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 02:53 |
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When buying a used bike from a dealership, what extra fees are reasonable for them to charge? Obviously freight and assembly shouldn't apply, but on an $8000 bike, what are they really going to charge?
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 02:56 |
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Z3n posted:
Tube tire perhaps?
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 03:00 |
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Ola posted:Tube tire perhaps? Yes sorry, I should have mentioned that it was likely a tubed tire as it was an older Goldwing. I don't have a lot of details because this came from "old Tom" at our favorite bike shop. The tube sticks pretty well to the inside of a hot tire so if it started rotating on the wheel it could easily tear away from the valve stem.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 03:09 |
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HHHH posted:When buying a used bike from a dealership, what extra fees are reasonable for them to charge? Obviously freight and assembly shouldn't apply, but on an $8000 bike, what are they really going to charge? Seems like around 1k in fees is pretty standard. Depends on your area and the dealership. On the tire biz...Yeah, ok...tubed tire, I could see it. But still, who the gently caress in their right mind thinks "oh no big deal, we'll just slap oil all over this tire!" It's...astounding.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 03:47 |
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It seems like the dealer markup varies location to location. I was looking at a 600RR a few weeks ago and they marked the drat thing up to over 11 grand with all of the fees. I think that's kind of silly. I can understand some doc fees but not much else. The prep is paid for by Honda same as the car dealer charges you for PDI when it's paid by the manufacturer. I guess they are just hoping someone walks in dumb as a post with pockets full of money (or at least a good credit rating). Used, who knows. It depends on what the bike is and how rare and/or in demand it happens to be. They want to move it but they still want to make a profit.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 04:58 |
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Yeah, I looked at new bikes at two different dealerships. Both charged around $500-$700 for shipping and assembly, one dealer charged $200 for "administrative fees" and the other charged $350 for "documentation fee". Don't forget sales tax, which adds another $600 or so and a $9000 bike starts pushing $11000 easily. I'm know a used bike won't have as many fees, but I'd like to know what's typical before I start haggling intelligently.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 05:10 |
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Z3n posted:On the tire biz...Yeah, ok...tubed tire, I could see it. But still, who the gently caress in their right mind thinks "oh no big deal, we'll just slap oil all over this tire!" It's...astounding. Honestly I have no idea. Old Tom thought they might have used WD40, thinking it was harmless, and sent the guy on his way. Maybe he took the bike out and crashed the same day while the WD40 was still really greasy. There are some horrible shops around here with mechanics that are lovely even when they're sober. Likely the Goldwing guy went to the local "guy" in one of these shops and had the tire put on for a handshake and a tenner.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 07:23 |
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8ender posted:Honestly I have no idea. Old Tom thought they might have used WD40, thinking it was harmless, and sent the guy on his way. Maybe he took the bike out and crashed the same day while the WD40 was still really greasy. You know, I'm not the hugest fan of doing tires and stuff, but after bent rotors and stories of people using oil of all things to change tires, I think I'll have a hard time letting my tires out of my sight ever again
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 08:00 |
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Where would I find vacuum adapters (like this: http://www.z1enterprises.com/products01/Vacuum-Carb-Sync-Adapter-6mm.aspx) to fit on the cylinder head of my GS? Would a parts store or hardware store stock them, or would I have to get them from a dealer, or online..?
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 09:15 |
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MrZig posted:Where would I find vacuum adapters (like this: http://www.z1enterprises.com/products01/Vacuum-Carb-Sync-Adapter-6mm.aspx) to fit on the cylinder head of my GS? I looked around a bit where I live, not as much as I should have, and didn't find anything. I bought mine from https://www.bikebandit.com because I was ordering some other stuff at the same time.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 14:17 |
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MrZig posted:Where would I find vacuum adapters i'm pretty sure GS's are 6mm. :-)I'll need to double check that.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 14:50 |
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Whatever Honda uses is the same size that Suzuki does cause my adapters fit in both. I think they were too small in the Ninja 250. I'll check and edit this post.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 15:10 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 02:37 |
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The ones he linked are 6mm. The ones that fit my Honda Shadow are 5mm and that is what I bought.
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# ? Mar 27, 2009 17:02 |