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Z3n posted:You know, I'm not the hugest fan of doing tires and stuff, but after bent rotors and stories of people using oil of all things to change tires, I think I'll have a hard time letting my tires out of my sight ever again Or if you're lucky, the local parts shop that did my tires will do them while you wait and let you sit in the shop and watch/bullshit/ask questions as they do it. Then if you see them hosing down the bike with salad oil you can stop them and go "what the gently caress? Better clean that poo poo off before I ride it." Z3n, how are those CB200's? There was a running one for sale locally for $300, I called the guy but it was already sold. Seem like a cute little bike to cafe out for local riding; I don't know how they'd act on the freeway though.
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Mar 27, 2009 17:23
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Or if you're lucky, the local parts shop that did my tires will do them while you wait and let you sit in the shop and watch/bullshit/ask questions as they do it. Then if you see them hosing down the bike with salad oil you can stop them and go "what the gently caress? Better clean that poo poo off before I ride it." CB200s are fantasticly hilarious. It's the sort of motorcycle that makes you want to go on a grand adventure just because you can. Crawl across the countryside at 45mph, and see all the things you'd never see as the world smears into a pastoral blur on a modern touring rig. With my g/f on it, it'd get up to around 65mph, on a downhill, with a lot of pinned throttle. If you have the chance to get one cheap, I highly recommend it. It's pretty much the ultimate around town runabout if you dig that style, and every time I swung leg over it, I felt like even traveling down to the grocery store was like taking on the adventures of a boy and his motorcycle. It's the sort of bike that makes you giggle when you ride it. Not recommended for stunters.
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Mar 27, 2009 17:46
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can you pull a 3 mile endo with 4 inch drum brakes this is important
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Mar 27, 2009 17:48
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Phat_Albert posted:can you pull a 3 mile endo with 4 inch drum brakes this is important yes, run it into the back of a semi and jam it in there in such a fashion that he doesn't notice you're there and the back or both wheels are off the ground i got at least 5 miles last time and a totally kickin' stizzy hospital bill. mad wheels fo lyfe!
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Mar 27, 2009 17:51
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I'm thinking I'm going to give my bike a much needed painting this weekend. I'm thinking of doing bedliner on the tank/rear seat fairings (they're all I have in terms of plastic, its very naked) and then taking the wheels off and painting them a flat black. I'm sure a few of you chaps recall it's classy white with grey chipped wheels on the meet, so you know anything I do will be an improvement.  I'm not going to paint the frame yet as that's a bit more of an endeavor. These parts I can at least easily access without taking out the whole engine. I read up on doing both and while the bedliner sounds like a done deal - sand down the tank and plastics to give a nice rough area for the bedliner to grip and spray it on, the wheels I think might give me more trouble. Does anyone have any experience rattlecanning aluminum wheels? posts on the internet say that it easily chips off and looks crappy and blah blah blah, but really at this point I think anything would be an improvement. Any tips on how to let it last as long as I can anyway? Sand the poo poo out of it to get the old paint off of course, but anything else I can do? In terms of the supplies, I'm thinking of using this for the bedliner: http://www.levineautoparts.com/duptrucbedli.html Not sure on what to use for the wheels yet, probably just same brand but flat black auto paint. Any recommendations on paper grit? dry vs wet? Thanks guys 
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Mar 27, 2009 20:44
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A basic question on how much RPM to have before shifting. When I ride my Bonneville, I usually just shift about half way through the rev-range, mostly going by ear. If I'm accelerating quickly, should I let the revs be higher before upshifting? When is it appropriate(if ever) to redline the engine? I mainly ride for the enjoymnent of riding, not for the speed or to race anyone. Thanks!
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Mar 27, 2009 21:02
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Armyman25 posted:A basic question on how much RPM to have before shifting. When I ride my Bonneville, I usually just shift about half way through the rev-range, mostly going by ear. If I'm accelerating quickly, should I let the revs be higher before upshifting? When is it appropriate(if ever) to redline the engine? It really depends heavily on the bike. I shift my Valk around 3k. On my Silverwing that would have been nearly lugging. Playing it by ear shouldn't ever steer you wrong. Redlining is fine breifly, even if it sounds like the bike is going to asplode. It takes quite a bit of time at redline to really do any damage. If you can find a dyna chart for your model bike, and want to shift at the maximum time for power, find where the But really anything that between lugging and redline should be good. *DISCLAIMER: I think at least. Maybe a racer can tell me better. VVV ah cool. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Mar 27, 2009 |
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Mar 27, 2009 21:07
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Armyman25 posted:A basic question on how much RPM to have before shifting. All of them. All the time. Every time. Seriously though. If you aren't using half your bikes rev range, you have no idea what sort of power the motor makes. Go look up a dyno chart for your bike, and look at the torque curve. On my bike, the motor keeps making more torque straight up to 9000rpm. My bike makes it's MOST power, and MOST torque around 9k. Redline is 10,500. I think the story is different on the bonneville. There is no rule to follow, but choosing shift points is a key to getting the performance you want out of your bike. Go run it to redline in first, and second, and third. See what you feel. Your bike also gets it's best fuel economy somewhere in the middle of it's torque band. So lugging doesn't necessarily help fuel mileage. And because I was beaten, and it needs to be said. Running the bike at maximum rpm, or near to it, doesn't hurt the bike. All those VFR's with blown top ends were due to people not using enough rpm to oil the cams properly. :-) If you ride a harley, or a 480cc+ single can ignore me. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Mar 27, 2009 |
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Mar 27, 2009 21:08
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Doctor Zero posted:It really depends heavily on the bike. I shift my Valk around 3k. On my Silverwing that would have been nearly lugging. Shift it when it'll make more power at the rear wheel in the next gear. Nero will take you over the basics of final drive ratios, tranmission ratios, torque multiplication, and all the maths.  On a modern motorcycle, it's better to shift late than early. You won't do any harm reving it out. There's times when I'll short shift, like when launching hard out of first to avoid potentially shifting it on the limiter and running the RPM too high on short gearing, but that's a special situation that doesn't really apply to track riding.
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Mar 27, 2009 21:23
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Racing science says shift when the declining power curve in current gear crosses the rising power curve in next gear. Motorcycle enjoyment science says redline it when you feel like whippin' the pony, lazy-rear end shift it when you're all chill and blip the throttle ALOT when shifting down next to women for instant blowjobs.
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Mar 27, 2009 21:24
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Z3n posted:Shift it when it'll make more power at the rear wheel in the next gear. Nero will take you over the basics of final drive ratios, tranmission ratios, torque multiplication, and all the maths.
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Mar 27, 2009 21:30
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Nerobro posted:So you are a bleach blonde. Denial all the way buddy. I like the part of the bike where i twist it and it makes noise and moves me! The rest of it i'm not so hot on. I'm actually probably the worst person to ask about shifting, as I tapdance the gently caress out of the lever at most trackdays. I shift all the god drat time trying to keep the SV in peak power.Edit: http://santabarbara.craigslist.org/mcy/1080851601.html Should I buy that.
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Mar 27, 2009 21:45
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Z3n posted:
YES (didn't click)
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Mar 27, 2009 21:55
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Z3n posted:Edit: I'd buy it just to figure out why it was burning oil. I've got that fixing and putting things together bug Nero has, though.  For $250 just parting it out alone could potentially net you quite a bit.
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Mar 27, 2009 22:06
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At that price. If it runs. No questions, buy it. Selling the ignitor, and top end will make up the price if you decide to part it out.
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Mar 27, 2009 22:10
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When I got my CB400 the speedo cable was broken and the speedo light bulb was shot. So I replaced both, without much hassle (seriously, replacing a speedo cable is so easy, but it's so satisfying). Week or two later, the tacho bulb went, along with the oil temp light bulb (I think that they're two bulbs out, it may be the same one, or two bulbs in series). Not got round to replacing those yet as I get annoyed when I have to dismantle bits of the bike to find what I need to replace, undismantle the bike to get me to the shop to buy the bits, go home and redismantle the bike to install said bits. Plus I've been doing mostly daylight riding, and I can hear the engine speed. Last weekend my headlight seemed to get stuck on fullbeam even when the selector was on dipped. Then the normal dipped headlight went. So I rode the 60 miles home on fullbeam, noone noticed or cared. Then tonight the fullbeam bulb flickered and died. Going to replace all these bulbs on monday, it's gotten to the point where I need to. I was just wondering whether all these bulbs going was a symptom of a deeper electrical problem, or I'd just stressed them with my faulty battery and charging shenanigans, or if it was just them all running out at the same time.
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Mar 27, 2009 23:21
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What are some good summer tires for a ninja 500? I want something sporty if possible.
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Mar 28, 2009 00:52
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Bridgestone BT45s and Pirelli Sport Demons are two good sporty tires that come in your sizes. I've had both on different bikes and have liked both. The Sport Demons seem to last a bit longer.
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Mar 28, 2009 01:14
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Sweet thanks the sport demons were the ones I was thinking of getting.
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Mar 28, 2009 01:25
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Pilot Road 2 if you want something that lasts a while? Some people do Pilot road 2 in the rear and pilot power in the front. Either way I've heard great things about both of them.
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Mar 28, 2009 01:27
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Orange Someone posted:When I got my CB400 the speedo cable was broken and the speedo light bulb was shot. So I replaced both, without much hassle (seriously, replacing a speedo cable is so easy, but it's so satisfying). Week or two later, the tacho bulb went, along with the oil temp light bulb (I think that they're two bulbs out, it may be the same one, or two bulbs in series). Check the voltage at the battery and the connectors for the headlight. If you get anything weird, you've got some electrical gremlins to chase down. Could just be coincidence as well.
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Mar 28, 2009 03:00
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This def doesn't deserve its own thread but can someone identify which type of motorcycle this is? It has a sidecar. I'd like to do a little research on it and the first step is identifying it. I hope someone in CA can help me with that. Click here for the full 750x563 image. TIA. Edit: That image and a VIN are all I have on it. I'd rather not spend money on a carfax report so if no one can identify it from the photo its perfectly cool. Edit2: The given vin is only 16 digits long so its invalid and vin decoders are unable to match it. LostinService fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Mar 28, 2009 |
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Mar 28, 2009 05:54
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On the subject of tire changing lube-KY. Seriously. The cheap stuff in the tube is fine. I suppose you could use asstroglide if you flet the need.
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Mar 28, 2009 05:57
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LostinService posted:This def doesn't deserve its own thread but can someone identify which type of motorcycle this is? It has a sidecar. I'd like to do a little research on it and the first step is identifying it. I hope someone in CA can help me with that. Looks like it might be a Ural of some kind: 
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Mar 28, 2009 06:16
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I think thst's one of the Chinese copies, given the shape of the heads. http://www.chang-jiang.com/bmw/a2.html Chang Jiang, not exactly a paragon of reliability. Alaso, it may be difficult to register here in the US. 
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Mar 28, 2009 07:42
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I wonder how much power that thing makes. My stepfather has a 650 Ural that's pretty drat gutless. That sidevalve engine has got to be scary slow.
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Mar 28, 2009 15:21
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The HP number can't be more than 30 or so on a good day, add a heavy metal bike and a sidecar and you have a recipe for instant mosey, on back roads, without traffic. And hopefully, without dogs chasing you or they'll catch you. I tested out a Dneiper and was not impressed. The 2WD was neat and all but the rest of it wasn't something I really wanted to live with.
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Mar 28, 2009 16:32
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Gnomad posted:I think thst's one of the Chinese copies, given the shape of the heads. Ah yeah, that's definitely it. Good catch.
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Mar 28, 2009 17:34
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I measured the outside diameter of the threads of the screw that's in place of the vacuum fitting in my cylinder head, and it came to 4.8mm or 3/16" of an inch. No parts store around here carries that. I might try the mechanic and see if he has any.
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Mar 28, 2009 23:43
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I got my bike out today (02 ZX6R) and went to practice with a buddy on a parking lot. I did awesome, but the bike came up to 240 in temperature in around 1hr and 40mins of messing around with not going over speeds of 30mph. Is this normal or do i need to check things out? I'm taking it for an oil change, break evaluation and a tire change sometimes next week probably.
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Mar 29, 2009 00:51
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Silky Thighs posted:I got my bike out today (02 ZX6R) and went to practice with a buddy on a parking lot. I did awesome, but the bike came up to 240 in temperature in around 1hr and 40mins of messing around with not going over speeds of 30mph. Is this normal or do i need to check things out? That's really hot...track bikes weren't designed for just cruising around in parking lots. Check that you aren't out of coolant and that your overflow is at an acceptable level. You really shouldn't let it run much over 225...240 is drat hot. Check your cooling system.
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Mar 29, 2009 00:57
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MrZig posted:I measured the outside diameter of the threads of the screw that's in place of the vacuum fitting in my cylinder head, and it came to 4.8mm or 3/16" of an inch.
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Mar 29, 2009 01:50
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Nerobro posted:That's called a m5 screw. Nothing on your bike is english. :-) you don't necessarily need vacuum fitttings. A tube an your ear will get you damned close. I thought it would be a 5mm. A tube and my ear? Wouldn't you need the tube to be, you know, sealed in the head? When I buy tires from the guy I'll ask if he has any 5mm fittings laying around. Gotta love guys like that. Any time I go over there he's working on bikes and such.
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Mar 29, 2009 06:49
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Is it just me or is it really hard to find late 80's (around 89) GSX1100F mirrors? Those and a good supply of 1983 or thereabouts GS1100 tail light lens elude me constantly.
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Mar 29, 2009 07:55
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MrZig posted:A tube and my ear? Wouldn't you need the tube to be, you know, sealed in the head? take the tube, put one end in your ear, put the other end to the mouth of the carb. Move the tube to the other carb. Listen to the difference. The louder one is taking in more air. Adjust as necessary until you can't hear a difference. I think that's the one motorcycle trick i learned from my dad. :-) It works really well.
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Mar 29, 2009 08:58
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Nerobro posted:take the tube, put one end in your ear, put the other end to the mouth of the carb. Move the tube to the other carb. Listen to the difference. The louder one is taking in more air. Adjust as necessary until you can't hear a difference. Really? That actually sounds pretty cool. Almost like a stethoscope, eh? I'll have to try that.
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Mar 29, 2009 09:04
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MrZig posted:Really? That actually sounds pretty cool. Almost like a stethoscope, eh? I'll have to try that. Exactly. When doing skreemers bike we got it as close as you could get it using the professional rigs. GOTO BED you nutjob. You seem to be online whenever I post.
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Mar 29, 2009 09:06
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Nerobro, when will you realize that us  are made of sterner stuff, and just don't need any sleep?
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Mar 29, 2009 09:29
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Nerobro posted:Exactly. When doing skreemers bike we got it as close as you could get it using the professional rigs. Shuttup a' ya face. I was watchin the F1 race, which is late! Also I'm a chronic refresher. And the whole crying beaver thing as well. And I type in short sentences. Like this. Edit: Also there's nothing better to do except sleep and we all know how boring that is. MrZig fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 09:49
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Trolling the forums keeps me awake while I fitfully work on my thesis.  Is there any sense in buying new/custom length clutch and choke cables for an old bike? The ones that are on there are about 5cm too short - the throttle cable is long enough, so that grip is all the way out to the end of the handlebar, but on the clutch side, but not so on the clutch side. Could I get away with just going to the motorcycle wrecker and finding suitable length cables?
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Mar 29, 2009 10:14
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