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Simkin posted:Nerobro, when will you realize that us I was up till 2am last night rewiring my coils to a relay system  There is only a few precious months of riding season in Canada so any bike downtime is unacceptable.
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Mar 29, 2009 16:54
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Hey folks, I'm going to be cleaning my bike and was wondering if a power hose (like 3-4k psi) was bad for the bike? I got a 98 dirtbike and had a lot of Oil around the muffler/expansion tube. in general, what parts of the bike do you want to focus on in order to get a dirty bike clean? thanks  not my bike, just cool
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Mar 29, 2009 17:53
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It can bad on anything plastic. We had some of Nero's RM250 fender flake. In general, for a dirt bike, you really want to focus in on any nooks in the frame and underneath the fenders. You'll find dirt like you wouldn't believe, and then some more.
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Mar 29, 2009 18:12
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Simkin posted:Trolling the forums keeps me awake while I fitfully work on my thesis. Cables wear out over time like anything else, they stretch, get sticky in the housing and little bits of the cable wire start to splinter off. They shouldn't be more than $20 each on the high side (unless you have some weird bike) so it'd probably be prudent to just replace them with new ones just in case. And unless you have some weird super long or super high handlebars the stock cables should fit just fine.
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Mar 29, 2009 18:29
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bobula posted:it'd probably be prudent to just replace them with new ones just in case. Plus a new clutch cable feels great, especially the Motion Pro ones with the plastic around the cable. You don't realize how lovely your clutch cable is until you replace it.
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Mar 29, 2009 19:27
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bobula posted:Cables wear out over time like anything else, they stretch, get sticky in the housing and little bits of the cable wire start to splinter off. They shouldn't be more than $20 each on the high side (unless you have some weird bike) so it'd probably be prudent to just replace them with new ones just in case. And unless you have some weird super long or super high handlebars the stock cables should fit just fine. Well, just to put it in perspective, the bars that were on there were very narrow, and flat. The cables (all bar the throttle) were just long enough to reach to where the grips were positioned on the bar. They also contacted the fuel tank when turned to full lock.  I swapped to a somewhat wider bar (some noname Euro/BMW style bar), which gives enough lift and rake to clear the tank at full lock, but the clutch, choke, and electrics are so short that the left grip sits inboard about 5cm. I was fortunate on the throttle side, as there was enough slop in the throttle cable to move it further out, and had a spare chunk of brake line that made up the shortfall.The real kicker, though, is that it appears that the bar I took off (because seriously, who designs a bike so that parts of the steering system hit bodywork when turning) was stock, as well as the cables.  Yes, it looks just like this, right down to the ugly, unpainted bracket for the headlight (which at first, I thought was a lovely addition by a PO). Since a)stock cables will be too short, and b)nobody seems to know gently caress-all about the bike (good luck finding a manual), I don't know how to source cables for it. Do I just take some string and measure out what I'll need, and order based on that, or do I go to a junkyard, see what they have that will fit, and call it a day? Edit: After looking some more, it appears that the actual stock bar sort of approximates a pair of clip-ons, with a very sharp rise from the center section. That would certainly clear the tank, but I doubt I will be able to find a replacement OEM piece. On the positive side, I finally found a manual. Sure, the shipping cost from the UK will probably be like 6x the actual cost of the manual, but still... 
Simkin fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 19:47
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kdc67 posted:It can bad on anything plastic. We had some of Nero's RM250 fender flake. In general, for a dirt bike, you really want to focus in on any nooks in the frame and underneath the fenders. You'll find dirt like you wouldn't believe, and then some more. so you think that if i take off the fenders/seat/gas tank. seal up the pipes/air filter/gas tank, I should be good?
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Mar 29, 2009 19:54
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You don't have to take anything off or seal it up. Just don't spend too many seconds shooting the water in one spot on things like fenders.
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Mar 29, 2009 19:58
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nskowyra posted:so you think that if i take off the fenders/seat/gas tank. seal up the pipes/air filter/gas tank, I should be good? Figure out where your idea adjust screw is and avoid spraying that. It is possible to move it if you spray it hard enough (shop did that to a friend's bike and it drove him crazy trying to figure out what they hosed up).
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Mar 29, 2009 20:24
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Simkin posted:Well, just to put it in perspective, the bars that were on there were very narrow, and flat. The cables (all bar the throttle) were just long enough to reach to where the grips were positioned on the bar. They also contacted the fuel tank when turned to full lock. So it didn't actually have the stock bars on it when you got it? It seems pretty odd that the bars would hit right out of the factory. If they were the stock ones, maybe they were bent somehow. If it comes down to it places like Barnett will make custom cables but they're usually pretty pricey. It was around $50 for them to make a longer Harley clutch cable for us. As for measuring, they usually the stock length "+" whatever extra inches you need, so you'd have to do it with a string/measuring tape or good eyeballing. This might help for measuring.
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Mar 29, 2009 21:12
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bobula posted:So it didn't actually have the stock bars on it when you got it? It seems pretty odd that the bars would hit right out of the factory. If they were the stock ones, maybe they were bent somehow. No, now I'm almost certain that a PO put an aftermarket bar on, and was just too  to bother getting one that cleared the tank. On the plus side, it makes an loving awesome cheater bar, as it will happily slip over all of my socket wrenches, and is plenty sturdy.I'll try measuring the cable length with string (or maybe just take them off and measure that way), and see if I can't find a reasonable replacement. In the interim, I may just run the bike with the clutch side a few cm inboard - hopefully it won't throw off her balance too much. 
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Mar 29, 2009 21:39
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My turn. I need help. What the hell is this? Obviously it's a carburetor, but what brand? What sort of jets does it take? There's a link to the thread at the bottom. Links goto the full size images.  http://www.practicalalchemy.org/~nerobro/public/Pictures/Motorcycles/MikuniCarbClean/WhatCarb_1.JPG  http://www.practicalalchemy.org/~nerobro/public/Pictures/Motorcycles/MikuniCarbClean/WhatCarb_2.JPG  http://www.practicalalchemy.org/~nerobro/public/Pictures/Motorcycles/MikuniCarbClean/WhatCarb_3.JPG http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3037511#post358656230
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Mar 30, 2009 07:08
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That looks like carb my Honda CB 100 had, don't remember anything about it other than it might be Keihin.
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Mar 30, 2009 11:36
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So what does it mean when replacing the spark plugs makes the bike harder to start? It's a Kawasaki er-500, kind of like the ex500 you guys have. Anyway I've been gradually replacing the consumables as the previous owner couldn't tell me when stuff was done. I replaced the plugs with the exact same, correct model, and I could tell from the old ones it wasn't running rich, but I couldn't say I would know how to tell if it was running lean maybe? The only difference is the gap on the old plugs was just slightly larger, which I thought was a normal wear thing. Could a smaller gap cause this? I'm not really sure what varying the gap actually does. It's not a big deal at the moment, but it's the end of summer here and I'm worried it might become a pain when it does get cold.
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Mar 30, 2009 14:46
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Mikuni and dellorto jets do not fit the emulsion tube on the carb. More pictures forthcoming.
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Mar 30, 2009 14:53
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Silky Thighs posted:I got my bike out today (02 ZX6R) and went to practice with a buddy on a parking lot. I did awesome, but the bike came up to 240 in temperature in around 1hr and 40mins of messing around with not going over speeds of 30mph. Is this normal or do i need to check things out? Late reply here, but: Was your fan coming on? I have the same bike, and my cooler fan comes on around 215-220 degrees. It's very noisy, so if you didn't notice it, you may have some electrical issue.
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Mar 30, 2009 14:54
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Well, I'm kinda stumped. My 75 Kawasaki F11-250 seized up on me last spring. Due to other bike projects, and a lack of gumption, I havent gotten to it till now. It seems like the bottom end bearings (one or both) are shot. I finally got the clutch hub off tonight, because I wasnt sure if the issue was in the transmission or crankcase. I'm guessing its the bearings because the crankshaft gets tight at various positions throughout its rotation, and it squeaks. So, my issue is that I cant find any place that sells crank bearings for the F11. Its a fairly rare bike, so it doesnt suprise me, but does anyone have any suggestions for places to look?
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Mar 31, 2009 02:28
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I think I put too much oil in my 90 Radian. I filled it up to the correct level, but I guess by the time it all settled, it's over the line. How bad is this for my engine, and is there an easy way to remove just a bit of oil? When the bike is on the center stand the little window that shows the level is completely covered, if I rock it towards the kick stand about halfway, it comes down to the correct level.
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Mar 31, 2009 21:29
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Phat_Albert posted:So, my issue is that I cant find any place that sells crank bearings for the F11. Its a fairly rare bike, so it doesnt suprise me, but does anyone have any suggestions for places to look?
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Mar 31, 2009 21:34
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Watommi posted:I think I put too much oil in my 90 Radian. I filled it up to the correct level, but I guess by the time it all settled, it's over the line. How bad is this for my engine, and is there an easy way to remove just a bit of oil? Siphon a little out with some tubing? Or use the top of a spray bottle, dump the pickup down and squeeze it until it's at the apropriate level.
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Mar 31, 2009 23:21
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Watommi posted:I think I put too much oil in my 90 Radian. I filled it up to the correct level, but I guess by the time it all settled, it's over the line. How bad is this for my engine, and is there an easy way to remove just a bit of oil? Speaking of which, when my GS400 is cold the level is in between the low and full marks. When it's hot (after 15 minutes of riding, say) and turned off for 2 minutes, the oil level is above the full mark. Does this mean it's over filled? I imagine the oil expands when hot.
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Mar 31, 2009 23:34
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I believe your manual will tell you whether you're supposed to check the level cold or hot. Since many bikes have dipsticks, which should never be checked when running, and temperature fluctuations between 'kinda warm' and 'operating temperature' will have a pretty big impact on oil level, it would make sense that the readings be taken with a cold engine.
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Mar 31, 2009 23:40
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Z3n posted:Siphon a little out with some tubing? Or use the top of a spray bottle, dump the pickup down and squeeze it until it's at the apropriate level. I like the spray bottle idea, I was thinking of just dipping a straw in there and holding my finger over the top. It's obvious how too little oil hurts an engine, but what does too much oil do?
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Apr 1, 2009 02:30
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Too much oil can raise the oil pressure to a degree where some component or other might fail. It never happened to me, but that's what my mechanic told me when I brought my old bike in with the oil level at the top of the sight glass.
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Apr 1, 2009 02:50
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Also, too much oil can make the bike hard to start in the cold. AND it can make it harder to shift(my experiences) Both were rectified with a proper amount of oil.
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Apr 1, 2009 02:56
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So, I've heard not to use wd-40 to clean a chain. But I've seen lots of people that do it. I've been using kerosene but just wondering if anyone used wd-40. Heard it damaged the o-rings? Also, when you adjust the chain. On or off a motorcycle stand? I've heard you want to do it when the bike is on the kick stand. I know to adjust at the tightest spot, etc etc. And I know I've asked this before but you guys are cleaning/lubing the chain after two tanks of gas or about 300-500 miles?
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Apr 1, 2009 03:58
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I've heard people say not to use WD because it's a penetrant and will get into the O rings. I also know a bunch of people who use it for cleaning and they haven't been complaining about their chains so who knows. I stand by my Simple Green, Grunge brush and a garden hose. 10 minutes and you are clean as can be.
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Apr 1, 2009 05:15
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Christoff posted:So, I've heard not to use wd-40 to clean a chain. But I've seen lots of people that do it. I've been using kerosene but just wondering if anyone used wd-40. Heard it damaged the o-rings? The "rumors" that I heard were that the propellent in WD40 would damage orings. I don't know if it's true or not. I adjust the chain on the stand, but check slack on the kickstand. Much easier to do it that way. I lube my chain roughly every 2 tanks of gas. No need for cleaning it (just the rest of the bike  ) with gear oil.
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Apr 1, 2009 06:55
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A guy on advrider did some science to find out about wd-40 and o-rings. Sure it's not a perfect replication of what happens to a chain, but it tells something about the effect of the fluid on the rubber. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350310 I'm not that worried about wd-40, but the best stuff I've used is Motorex Chain Cleaner. A bit too expensive, so when I'm out I'll try some biodegradable citrus degreaser.
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Apr 1, 2009 08:03
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Watommi posted:I like the spray bottle idea, I was thinking of just dipping a straw in there and holding my finger over the top. If it's a wet sump engine (the oil is in the crankcase instead of in a separate tank), too much oil means everything is working harder trying to spin the crank through the excess oil, among other things. It'll make your bike rev like crap. Christoff posted:Also, when you adjust the chain. On or off a motorcycle stand? I've heard you want to do it when the bike is on the kick stand. I know to adjust at the tightest spot, etc etc. I prefer to adjust/check chains like Z3n. Get it all adjusted (you'll get the feel of about how tight it'll be off center stand while you're adjusting it on after a while), set it on the tight spot then put it on the kickstand or have someone sit on it so there's pressure on the swingarm, giving you the correct reading of how it's going to be while you're riding it.
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Apr 1, 2009 08:18
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Watommi posted:too much oil? Another issue I've heard about with wet sump engines is that the crank thrusting in and out of the oil will cause it to foam. Foamy oil is less capable of lubricating properly. Generally you can see the foam at the top of the sight glass.
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Apr 1, 2009 13:54
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If anyone was thinking about doing it also, bedliner on a bike is awesome. I sprayed my tank and fairings with rustoleum bedliner and couldnt be more impressed. Its really scratch resistant, looks nice and is even gas resistant. My dumb rear end spilled a shitload of gas right on the tank when I was refilling it once I got the bike back together and it just wiped off, no smearing of the paint/liner or anything. 10/10 A++ will use again on all other ugly parts throughout the next couple weekends. EDIT: VVVV I'll try to get some soon after I clean the rest of the bike up. While its painted, its pretty underwhelming if the rest of the bike is dripping oil and poo poo everywhere. (there's some sort of leak by the cylinder heads.) Maybe I wont clean it so you guys can help me pinpoint the issue. ALSO: anyone have experience with painting wheels? I hear it flakes off super easy. I got some self etching primer and I'm going to sand the poo poo out of the wheel beforehand to get the old paint off, but if anyone has some tips that would be great, I'll be paitning the wheels this weekend. white with silver chips everywhere is not very cool looking. Minty Swagger fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 04:21
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Post pictures! I wanna see.
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Apr 2, 2009 05:02
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an actual frog fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Apr 2, 2009 20:00
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Mechanism Eight posted:I've recently bought a 1991 GS500 with (allegedly) 16,000 miles on it and have so far put another 500 on. I've got almost no mechanical knowledge so when the bike suddenly started making louder sounds than usual today I had to record it and ask for advice. It's always made a light ticking sound from what I assume are the valves opening and closing but I assumed that was OK. EDIT: Well, I guess they just sound like lawn mowers compared to my bike  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6WYgFk5pyw
Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 20:08
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I'm trying to get an old 50cc yamaha razz scooter running to sell, and I'm almost entirely new to fixing engines. Long story short, it started once, and then hasn't since. It has a new battery and is sparking fine, fuel is getting to the carb, and I can't think of anything that has changed since it started. I pulled the sparkplug out and kicked it a few times after the last time I tried starting it, and there is gas coming out so it seems flooded. I don't hear detonation at all when kicking it. What do I check/try next?
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Apr 2, 2009 23:03
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clean said carb.
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Apr 2, 2009 23:07
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Nerobro posted:clean said carb. Carb has been cleaned. Sorry, forgot that bit.
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Apr 2, 2009 23:59
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Mechanism Eight posted:The recording is here, is that "normal"? Sounds like it may be your cam chain that just needs some adjustment. If you have a manual, some screwdriver bits, and a Simkin fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Apr 3, 2009 |
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Apr 3, 2009 00:01
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null0ne posted:Carb has been cleaned. Sorry, forgot that bit. Tell me what was involved in cleaning the carb.
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Apr 3, 2009 00:06
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