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I'd like to stay under 100 dollars per wheel. I don't know what "cheap" is, really. These, for instance: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/21-1045.html Look to be good and Goodwin likes them, but can I find something as good for significantly less?
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Mar 30, 2009 05:45
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Probably not. These are $99/per and are the replacement for the Kazera KZ-M. 15x7 http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...=All&sort=Brand
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Mar 30, 2009 05:50
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Would I have any trouble with that offset? Do I need a hub ring? I like that they come with lugnuts.
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Mar 30, 2009 06:04
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Nope, they'll fit just fine. There are some mounted pictures at the end of this thread: http://clubroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20229 I personally don't like the grey color, but I think they'd look decent if you resprayed them.
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Mar 30, 2009 06:06
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The grey might look good on a white car. It's pretty late for me and I'm having trouble picturing it, though. edit: have to pick new tires, too. RS2s are $77 per, and if I can actually get 20k out of them, that would be good. How are the Yokohama s.Drive and Dunlop Direzza DZ101s? Those are decently priced for the size I'd get, and I can't remember anything bad said about them on these forums. GoblinBomb fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Mar 30, 2009 |
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Mar 30, 2009 06:31
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well this thread seems to have take a turn for post your crashed miata   Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. This happened a week ago, and I've only had the car for 3 weeks. It was raining, and I had bald tires (RE01Rs were in the garage waiting to be put on). I'm not sure how much I can fix it, so I'm sort of weighing my options and looking for another one at the same time. mars fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Mar 30, 2009 |
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Mar 30, 2009 17:53
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<Mazda curse & YOU KILLED A 95 M post>
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Mar 30, 2009 17:59
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mars posted:well this thread seems to have take a turn for post your crashed miata oh man if you're going to part it out I'm really interested. I want your mirrors. Where are you located? Please email me at hogobituary at gmail.
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Mar 30, 2009 18:35
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I should be picking this up within the month.    Already have a down payment on it, paper work is in the mail. This little guy looks very nice and is completely stock as far as I can tell. Were speakers on the shelf behind the seats ever a factory option? I'm very excited to have a blank canvas to work with. I have (selling it tomorrow) a 94 Black/Tan that had a roll bar already installed when I bought it. First mods planned are installing the Tein Flex coil-overs and Mazda OEM front lip that I've had sitting in my room for 6 months. http://www.chicagocarsdirect.com/1997-mazda-mx-5-miata--c-556.htm
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Mar 31, 2009 16:15
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Those types of rear deck speakers were not a factory option as far as I'm aware. But regardless, that looks like a nice clean NA.
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Mar 31, 2009 18:08
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Can cruise control be added to a Miata post production? Miata in question is a 99. Also, its safe to drive it on the highway for extended periods of time, right? It's just kind of nerve wracking at 3500 rpm for a long time.
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Mar 31, 2009 23:25
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terrorist posted:Can cruise control be added to a Miata post production? Miata in question is a 99. There's an aftermarket cruise control system that a few people on miata.net use with no problem. The cleaner way to do it is to get the whole oem system and swap it over but thats a little difficult. Requires the cruise control thing, the computer, new wiper stalk/switch and a cruise control gas pedal. edit: and by a few I mean a lot. Its the audiovox CCS-100 system You'll have no problem on the freeway, my cruising speed puts my 92 at ~4200rpm. FireTora fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Mar 31, 2009 |
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Mar 31, 2009 23:41
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terrorist posted:Can cruise control be added to a Miata post production? Miata in question is a 99. Until the speed cameras went in, I probably did 20k miles at 4200-4500RPM in my '99. It's fine, though the fuel mileage goes to poo poo at those speeds 
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Apr 1, 2009 01:09
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I've done 4+ hours at 85mph (4200-4400rpm) no problem, and then ran up and down Deal's Gap all day.
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Apr 1, 2009 03:31
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Yeah, staying in closed loop helps a good amount. Comparing the mileage I got on all seasons+hard top+closed loop to summer tires+top down+open loop was 
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Apr 1, 2009 04:10
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destructo posted:Yeah, staying in closed loop helps a good amount. Comparing the mileage I got on all seasons+hard top+closed loop to summer tires+top down+open loop was It's mechanically safe. Not safe for your wallet, though. 25mpg last tank for speed limit + 20mph. 
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Apr 1, 2009 04:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:Until the speed cameras went in, I probably did 20k miles at 4200-4500RPM in my '99. It's fine, though the fuel mileage goes to poo poo at those speeds The speed cameras and construction here have done wonders for my mileage too.
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Apr 1, 2009 04:19
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Phone posted:It's mechanically safe. Not safe for your wallet, though.
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Apr 1, 2009 05:58
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Are these wheels good? quote:These are the 1994-1997 miata light weight hollow spoke version, weight approx. 11 lbs. Reference http://jason-parker.net/images/wheels.htm 175 shipped for the set, all have curb rash. edit: also one has a dent: 
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Apr 1, 2009 16:50
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I wouldn't pay for them. You can get 90-93 daisys for free most of the time, there's nothing special about those wheels. I'd just find something cheaper locally.
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Apr 1, 2009 16:54
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People want a pretty penny for the 94-97 wheels. They look alright and sure they're 14x6, but people want like 300 for a set whereas you can get a set of daisies for 100. Pass on those wheels, and if you're looking for a deal, see if somebody's unloading a set of BBS wheels with a center cap missing or something.
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Apr 1, 2009 18:14
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edit: sold or something
Phone fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 1, 2009 19:09
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Just realized, my car turns 20 years old this month.code:I had cake, the car got a new center console and glovebox latch. GoblinBomb fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 02:03
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How much of a red flag should a badly done intake be on a used Miata? I'm fairly sure that this tiny engine doesn't need this, and that if anything it will be decreasing the torque output.  The car is in good shape except for that intake stuck on there, and I'm wondering if it would be worth it to go back to stock if I should buy the car. It depends how low I can get the price, a '99 base 5spd isn't exactly a special Miata and I'm hoping to get it for $5k.
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Apr 2, 2009 04:40
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I wouldn't worry about the intake, even my friend's dad stuck an intake on his 00 for the sake of the intake noise and he takes good care of the thing. lovely intake != abused. I doubt you'll notice a difference going back to stock anyway.
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Apr 2, 2009 04:56
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Weinertron posted:How much of a red flag should a badly done intake be on a used Miata? I'm fairly sure that this tiny engine doesn't need this, and that if anything it will be decreasing the torque output. Nothings really wrong with that intake, but if you really wanted to go back to stock you could probably get someone to give you 50 bucks and their stock intake for it.
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Apr 2, 2009 04:57
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terrorist posted:Can cruise control be added to a Miata post production? Miata in question is a 99. I've done an hour at 6000rpm. Burned a little oil but other than that it was fine.
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Apr 2, 2009 06:14
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How hard is dropping the tank on an NA? Krakkles' 91 needs to have the tank replaced, and I picked up a spare but its a Wisconsin rustbucke, so what do I have to remove to get it out? PPF, diff, and all the rear subframe?
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Apr 2, 2009 07:16
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That should be it. There's really nothing else back there. :P
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Apr 2, 2009 07:53
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Can anyone recommend a shop in the Los Angeles area that's decent with Miatas and won't gouge you? My sister-in-law's '95M has a broken passenger window mechanism and she's planning on getting it fixed with her tax refund.
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Apr 2, 2009 18:36
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Is the instrument cluster hood the same between 90-93 and 94-97? edit: answered my own question, it isn't.
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Apr 2, 2009 21:03
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Weinertron posted:How much of a red flag should a badly done intake be on a used Miata? I'm fairly sure that this tiny engine doesn't need this, and that if anything it will be decreasing the torque output. The red flag for me is that brown radiator. It could crack and start leaking at any time. A new one costs around $100.
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Apr 2, 2009 22:54
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Grayham posted:The red flag for me is that brown radiator. It could crack and start leaking at any time. A new one costs around $100. For what it's worth, my 95 has had an equally brown radiator since I bought it going on 3 years ago now. So presumably it's been brown quite a bit longer. Still not a single problem. I know other people with similar experiences. I think the whole brown = imminent death thing is kind of overblown. I definitely wouldn't pass on an otherwise fine car over it (and I didn't). Plus it's a cheap and easy repair. Granted, blowing a radiator on the freeway would be inconvenient, but eh I'll deal with it when (if) it happens. Guinness fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 23:34
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Anybody got an extra soft-top with frame available? I've got a '99, but honestly, any top that doesn't leak is better than a glass window top that does. Two nice, huge tears at the corners I've patched with vinyl...poorly.
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Apr 3, 2009 17:45
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Grayham posted:The red flag for me is that brown radiator. It could crack and start leaking at any time. A new one costs around $100. Every time I see this post I want to say something, so I'm going to now. Almost every car I've ever seen, including every single miata has a radiator that is this color. Unless you work for a radiator company I can't see why you're telling people this. I too have had a radiator this color on my NB for 3 years.
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Apr 4, 2009 02:11
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BusinessWallet posted:Every time I see this post I want to say something, so I'm going to now. Almost every car I've ever seen, including every single miata has a radiator that is this color. Unless you work for a radiator company I can't see why you're telling people this. I too have had a radiator this color on my NB for 3 years. The radiator in the car I bought was black. Tan/green radiators mean the endtanks could have 24 hours or a year until they crack or come off the core and cause a massive coolant leak. A new radiator is stupidly cheap, like $100.
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Apr 4, 2009 10:56
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Any suggestions? If I do need to drill, what's the best way to clean up the hole and is there a cheap place to get some various sized grommets? (edit: 10 seconds found these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46724) Edit2: I'm an idiot that thought the OBD connection was the diagnostic box and not in the cabin. Question still stands regarding best places to run thru the firewall. ChiliMac fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Apr 5, 2009 |
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Apr 4, 2009 13:12
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Is there anything wrong with the Magnaflow Direct-fit cats? They're cheaper on eBay than the Jackson Racing or OEM converters, but I'm guessing they won't function very well or fall apart? Such as this I'm such a cheapskate 
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Apr 6, 2009 01:44
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ChiliMac posted:Edit2: I'm an idiot that thought the OBD connection was the diagnostic box and not in the cabin. Question still stands regarding best places to run thru the firewall.
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Apr 6, 2009 01:55
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GoblinBomb posted:Is there anything wrong with the Magnaflow Direct-fit cats? They're cheaper on eBay than the Jackson Racing or OEM converters, but I'm guessing they won't function very well or fall apart? I just got one of these from a guy locally about a month ago for $80 after my old one clogged. They're well made and shouldn't have any issue. I haven't needed to smog my car with it yet but I'm sure it'll do just fine. They cat I replaced with it was practically half empty which is probably why I barely passed smog last year.
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Apr 6, 2009 02:54
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