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Doctor Zero posted:
I have a 92 GS500 with the stock pipes and yeah, the sound is really underwhelming.  Mine has a bit of an exhaust leak too so it sounds even more lawnmower-y than that those ones. Gixxers watch out, this bike means business.
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Apr 3, 2009 00:36
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Nerobro posted:Tell me what was involved in cleaning the carb. Soaked it in carb cleaner, wiped out all the gunk I could get to, soaked it again, blew compressed air through every bit I could find. I thought that's what I was supposed to do, I'm going to be pissed if it is something that simple.
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Apr 3, 2009 00:49
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You're not going to be happy. "Soaking" it won't do it. Blowing it out won't help. To clean the carb you really need to pull each jet, clean them individually. Once you have the jets out, you can try cleaning the passages. Most likely, you need to clean your pilot circuit.
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Apr 3, 2009 01:06
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Nerobro posted:You're not going to be happy. "Soaking" it won't do it. Blowing it out won't help. To clean the carb you really need to pull each jet, clean them individually. Once you have the jets out, you can try cleaning the passages.  Seems like 3 minutes on google before cleaning the carb would've served me better than 3 minutes on the phone with my friend. Will try and come back with results.
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Apr 3, 2009 01:23
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I have a problem with my ’81 Yamaha XS650 and have asked before but haven’t gotten the answer yet. I’ve replaced the rectifier (regulator?) with a used one from my local shop, the alternator brushes, the spark plugs, and plug wires, but the bike doesn’t seem to be charging above 11.0 volts. As the engine revs beyond 3000 the lights brighten up and it makes about 12.5 volts. The guy at the shop said the alternator rotor and the stator looked good. Is it time to replace something else? Am I missing a really simple answer?
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Apr 3, 2009 04:21
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There's 3 parts to a charging system: The stator, which generates AC current from the engine, the R/R, which converts that AC to DC, and the battery, which stores charge. One of those things is your problem. Have you checked the output in AC from the stator and figured out if it's consistant with spec? I'm not exactly sure how the shop guy said the stator "looked good" without actually testing it. I'd be inclined to say that it's the stator, but you could have gotten a bad R/R as well. What's the voltage at the battery with the bike off?
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Apr 3, 2009 04:26
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Z3n posted:There's 3 parts to a charging system: The stator, which generates AC current from the engine, the R/R, which converts that AC to DC, and the battery, which stores charge. I just went out and checked it, it was exactly 12.0 volts DC.
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Apr 3, 2009 04:33
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hoho`win posted:I just went out and checked it, it was exactly 12.0 volts DC. That's a bit low, but not too bad...I'd lean towards your stator being the issue, but you'd be best off testing it properly, figuring out what sort of output it's putting out and what it's supposed to have.
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Apr 3, 2009 04:36
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Z3n posted:That's a bit low, but not too bad...I'd lean towards your stator being the issue, but you'd be best off testing it properly, figuring out what sort of output it's putting out and what it's supposed to have. Thanks for your help. One last question, how do I go about testing it properly?
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Apr 3, 2009 04:39
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hoho`win posted:Thanks for your help. One last question, how do I go about testing it properly? Does the stator have 2 or 3 wires coming off of it? According to the closest thing I have to a repair manual for your bike, you're supposed to have .5 ohms of resistance between each of the wires coming from the stator. If you don't have that, it's toast. That could be wrong...but you can at least check for consistancy across the stator. If they're all consistant, you're probably good. Paging nero, though...I'm useless without specs on something like this.
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Apr 3, 2009 04:49
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Z3n posted:Does the stator have 2 or 3 wires coming off of it? According to the closest thing I have to a repair manual for your bike, you're supposed to have .5 ohms of resistance between each of the wires coming from the stator. If you don't have that, it's toast. Two brushes that each lead to a wire, so a total of two wires. Do you mean to check the resistance between the two wires, or the wires and the stator?
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Apr 3, 2009 04:55
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hoho`win posted:Two brushes that each lead to a wire, so a total of two wires. Do you mean to check the resistance between the two wires, or the wires and the stator? The 2 wires that join the stator to the R/R.
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Apr 3, 2009 04:57
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OP posted:Q: What should I get for a first bike? A 600cc supersport is okay rite?? The advice link is broken - anywhere else i can find it?
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Apr 3, 2009 05:13
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whereismyshoe posted:The advice link is broken - anywhere else i can find it? http://www.break.com/index/first-motorcycle-ride-goes-poorly.html That's the link.
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Apr 3, 2009 05:27
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Z3n posted:http://www.break.com/index/first-motorcycle-ride-goes-poorly.html I was referring to the second one, the one with the actual advice on buying a first bike. I watched the video.
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Apr 3, 2009 05:52
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Finally found time to have the clutch looked at properly. He's determined it needs to be replaced by starting it up, revving it quite high and letting the clutch out slowly. I'm not familiar with what he was doing, but I assumed he was looking for a gradual application of power forcing the front down, but instead it would get to a point where it would just grab and jolt the bike forward. So the way I understand it, the plates are worn to the point that they'll slip and slip and slip and then just eventually grab, which may explain why its always felt a bit like an on off switch to me. Am I looking at this correctly?
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Apr 3, 2009 11:19
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Huhwhat? Did someone call me?hoho`win posted:I have a problem with my ’81 Yamaha XS650 and have asked before but haven’t gotten the answer yet. I’ve replaced the rectifier (regulator?) with a used one from my local shop, the alternator brushes, the spark plugs, and plug wires, but the bike doesn’t seem to be charging above 11.0 volts. As the engine revs beyond 3000 the lights brighten up and it makes about 12.5 volts. The guy at the shop said the alternator rotor and the stator looked good. Is it time to replace something else? Am I missing a really simple answer? I think you need to test your rotor. those sometimes short out. when they short out they don't generate a strong enough magnetic field, and don't generate enough electricity. You should be seeing 13-14v, not 12.5v. If you have your repair manual, there should be specs for the rotor resistance, check those out. Also, the stator should pass the normal checks. There should be three wires coming off the stator, if you do resistance checks between each leg, it should come up with the same number each time. You should also get a reading of infinite ohms if you try to go between one of the legs and the chassis. The two wires that feed the brushes, if you unplug them from the brushes, and check the voltage, it should be the same as your battery voltage. The spark plugs, and plug wires have nothing to do with your charging system.
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Apr 3, 2009 14:39
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So my car is paid off this month, and that means I can afford to get a new bike. Hooray! I'm looking at either the new Kawasaki ER-6n, or the new Suzuki Gladius. I think the Gladius looks better, but the Kawasaki is like $500 less. I'll have to test ride to know for sure, I guess. Anyone have experience with either? This also means it's time to sell the '82 GPZ-550. I hate to lose it, but I ride almost exclusively as a commute, and I know it'll just sit unused and soaking up insurance and property tax money. Plus, the extra cash up front means I can pay off the new bike in under a year. I figure since you guys helped me with my starting out old bike questions, I'd offer here before moving to craigslist or the dealer. Anyone here want it? PM me for details. (or with selling advice) I'm trying to get at least $1200.
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Apr 3, 2009 14:39
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Can't give you any worthwhile advice, but maybe this MCN test which includes both will help you decide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKVEzLJroLA
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Apr 3, 2009 17:12
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whereismyshoe posted:I was referring to the second one, the one with the actual advice on buying a first bike. I watched the video. I'm an idiot...biekwiki is gone, maybe Rev. has a backup of the OG bike buying guide? Here's some good basic links on why 600s are a bad idea: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Why_sportbikes_are_NOT_beginner_bikes And a good post on the sportrider forum: http://forums.sportrider.com/70/591801/new-riders/new-riders-please-read-this-updated/index.html kcer posted:Finally found time to have the clutch looked at properly. He's determined it needs to be replaced by starting it up, revving it quite high and letting the clutch out slowly. Sounds about right. Clutches are very easy to do on a motorcycle, around 15 bolts and 6 allen bolts unless you've got some oddball bikes. Are you doing it yourself? chryst, If you've got money in hand, you should be able to snag a test ride on each one. See what fits you better...they're both bikes that have gotten a lot of good press, and the Gladius is basically an SV650N, which is a tried and true bike.
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Apr 3, 2009 17:21
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Z3n posted:chryst,
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Apr 3, 2009 18:12
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Is there any interest in rehosting the biekwiki?
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Apr 3, 2009 22:48
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Accidently posted this in the bike gear thread for some reason. Durrr. Where do I find headlight wraparounds/windshields like this? Are they made for specific bikes? I want to try and find one for my GS400 but I have no idea where to start looking.  Click here for the full 1024x682 image. By the way that bike is 100% pure sex. God I want it.
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Apr 4, 2009 20:06
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MrZig posted:Accidently posted this in the bike gear thread for some reason. Durrr. Why, that happens to be my bike. Albeit with different paint and the flyscreen. The flyscreen in the picture is a Triumph OEM part made specifically for the Thruxton/Bonneville/Scrambler. That said, they're fairly easy to come across in generic formats. Try Googling for "flyscreen" and "cafe." OrangeFurious fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Apr 4, 2009 |
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Apr 4, 2009 20:34
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OrangeFurious posted:Why, that happens to be my bike. Albeit with different paint and the flyscreen. You have this bike? I just found out about today and holy poo poo do I want one. How do you like it?
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Apr 4, 2009 21:09
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MrZig posted:You have this bike? I just found out about today and holy poo poo do I want one. How do you like it? Yeah, I ride an '07 Thruxton. It's a great bike and I've been happy with it. The 865cc parallel twin might be disappointing to someone coming from sport-bike background, but stock it has enough power to keep things interesting. Just don't expect an OMG liter bike roflcopter. I've had mild performance upgrades on mine and it now has more power than I care to use. It's comfortable, reliable, handles well, and as you pointed out looks amazing. Most people who ask about it assume it's either vintage or completely custom.
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Apr 4, 2009 21:28
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So I'm trying to decide whether or not to keep my motorcycle. I'm leaving in June through November or so. Then I'll be back for a month. Then I'll be gone for about 2 months, back for a week, then gone for antoher 4-6 or so. (Navy/Traveling before Navy). I do have a small spot in the garage here at my folks house that I could probably store it. What do you guys think? I don't exactly need the money from selling it too bad. And ultimately I'd like to keep it. I'm just wondering if it's wasteful to have it lying around so much. And whether or not I'll keep it registered or go in/out of non-op.
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Apr 5, 2009 03:10
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Christoff posted:So I'm trying to decide whether or not to keep my motorcycle. I'm leaving in June through November or so. Then I'll be back for a month. Then I'll be gone for about 2 months, back for a week, then gone for antoher 4-6 or so. (Navy/Traveling before Navy). Personally, I'd keep it. It's not a tough thing to sort the bike so that it can sit there for that period of time, and it's certainly not wasteful (a bike takes up so much less space than a car). The only question is if you'd feel guilty going away and leaving it, which you might considering you've asked the question. But I would make sure you ask yourself how you'd feel if you came back, itching for a ride and you'd sold your bike. And would you want to take up riding again after that? I mean, I assume you already have the kit. Dammit, coherancy is not my best attribute. I'm planning on keeping my bikes when I sail off into the big blue ocean (or Dartmouth, which will be first), but I'm probably going to find family members to look after them. Thinking my sister will get the 125, my mum wants the 400 but she's not got her license yet.
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Apr 5, 2009 10:04
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OrangeFurious posted:Yeah, I ride an '07 Thruxton. It's a great bike and I've been happy with it. The 865cc parallel twin might be disappointing to someone coming from sport-bike background, but stock it has enough power to keep things interesting. Just don't expect an OMG liter bike roflcopter. I've had mild performance upgrades on mine and it now has more power than I care to use. It's comfortable, reliable, handles well, and as you pointed out looks amazing. Most people who ask about it assume it's either vintage or completely custom. That bike looks amazing, how comfortable would it be for touring? Keep in mind I'm coming from a Ninja 250.
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Apr 5, 2009 15:10
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I can hear a squeak coming from my front wheel when I'm riding below around 20mph, above that it stops. Can anyone advise me what could be causing it? If it's loud enough for me to hear it inside my helmet that can't be a good thing. The bike is a 2003 03 reg Honda NSR125R.
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Apr 5, 2009 16:25
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There are only a couple of things it could be. Bearings or the front brakes rubbing. OR your front tire could be rubbing against the forks, I guess.
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Apr 5, 2009 17:19
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blugu64 posted:That bike looks amazing, how comfortable would it be for touring? Keep in mind I'm coming from a Ninja 250. The riding position on a Thruxton isn't quite as aggressive as a sport-bike, but there's definitely more forward lean than you'll see on a typical touring bike. There's also not a lot of room to mount storage on. The Thruxton is a minimalist bike in it's stock configuration. I average about a hundred miles per tank of gas, which may be another limiting factor. Depending on what type of touring you want to do, those can all be limiting factors. I suspect a Thruxton would beat out the Ninja 250, but you're not going to confuse it with a VFR. That said, the Thruxton and Bonneville are similar bikes and some people (e.g., Rope Kid) take Bonnevilles on long trips and do all sorts of crazy things to them. Chances are most of the Bonneville mods would translate to a Thruxton pretty easily. Given how similar the Bonneville and Thruxton are it might be easier to start with a Bonneville though. Or you could go nuts and try a Scrambler: 
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Apr 5, 2009 19:08
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Budgie posted:I can hear a squeak coming from my front wheel when I'm riding below around 20mph, above that it stops. Can anyone advise me what could be causing it? If it's loud enough for me to hear it inside my helmet that can't be a good thing. Drag the brakes slightly...does it go away? My trackbike clicks the brakes when you're rolling around at low speed. OrangeFurious posted:Or you could go nuts and try a Scrambler: God, those are pretty.
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Apr 5, 2009 19:14
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Sometimes on my sv650s it gets REALLY hard to shift gears. I have to really force it down or up sometimes to get it to go. Usually its only hard to shift after lots of stop and go, or me being neglectful and not shifting down when I should and trying to shift down 3 gears at once. New clutch cable time? New clutch? Heh. Usually when I'm going faster than 25mph it has no problem shifting.
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Apr 5, 2009 20:29
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Captain Apollo posted:Sometimes on my sv650s it gets REALLY hard to shift gears. I have to really force it down or up sometimes to get it to go. Usually its only hard to shift after lots of stop and go, or me being neglectful and not shifting down when I should and trying to shift down 3 gears at once. How is your clutch cable adjusted? You should have about half an inch of slack in the lever before it starts to engage the cable, if you have more than that, it's easy to get the symptoms you're describing, because when you pull the clutch in, you're not actually disengaging it completely.
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Apr 5, 2009 20:33
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Does anyone know of a good place to get tiny metric o-rings? I killed one of the ones that interfaces with the pilot screws with carb cleaner and the bike doesn't seem to like going without them. The bike is a 1978 CB400T, the carbs are Keihin, and the o-ring is about 5mm OD and 3mm ID. This place is the only source I can find for them, and I'm not exactly ready to trust them with my credit card number, for reasons that are apparent.
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Apr 6, 2009 00:22
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Malpenix Blonia posted:Does anyone know of a good place to get tiny metric o-rings? I killed one of the ones that interfaces with the pilot screws with carb cleaner and the bike doesn't seem to like going without them. A lot of dealerships will stock Keihin O-ring kits, if you can find someone who's not a part # lookup monkey at your local dealership, you can probably match one out of there.
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Apr 6, 2009 00:31
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Malpenix Blonia posted:Does anyone know of a good place to get tiny metric o-rings? I killed one of the ones that interfaces with the pilot screws with carb cleaner and the bike doesn't seem to like going without them. I don't know what material you need, but McMaster has packs of o-rings for sale in those dimensions. Not sure if you really want to spend $6+ on 25-100 o-rings when you only need one, though.
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Apr 6, 2009 00:53
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Z3n posted:A lot of dealerships will stock Keihin O-ring kits, if you can find someone who's not a part # lookup monkey at your local dealership, you can probably match one out of there. I think this particular o-ring is only available (from the dealer) as part of a 'gasket set' which is ~$20 per carb. Uthor posted:I don't know what material you need, but McMaster has packs of o-rings for sale in those dimensions. Not sure if you really want to spend $6+ on 25-100 o-rings when you only need one, though. This is pretty much exactly what I was looking for. I'd much rather spend $6 on 25 o-rings from McMaster-Carr than spend $6 on 4 o-rings from some sketchy site. I just hope that the o-rings are the reason why my bike is refusing to idle.
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Apr 6, 2009 01:50
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Malpenix Blonia posted:I just hope that the o-rings are the reason why my bike is refusing to idle. Could be, but make sure while you're in those carbs you triple check that the pilots are clean.
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Apr 6, 2009 01:52
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