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As a long shot, you could try Lowes in the plumbing section. I've lucked out and matched 0-rings there on occasion. It's hit and miss with no apparent rhyme or reason for the selection, or how it's displayed, maybe worth a try though.
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Apr 6, 2009 02:31
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Advanced Auto/Kragan/Autozone usually have a O-ring selection behind the counter as well. I've had semi good luck finding some there from time to time. Worth a shot anyway.
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Apr 6, 2009 03:05
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More problems with my CM250C, hooray. I had the carb professionally cleaned, and indeed it is quite clean. However, the bike STILL does not run well at idle - it idles up and down in a kind of cyclical manner and I need to set the idle pretty high for it to want to stay running, even after warming up. High enough where the bike can put around at 5mph in first gear with no throttle. Warming up is a whole other matter. For some reason, the choke does not open when the choke button is pulled. Either I connected it wrong, or something is wrong with it. Either way, I can manually push open the choke (after taking the air filter off) but the cable just is not able to do it. This means that it takes the bike a good five minutes to warm up and I constantly have to keep the engine revved while it's warming up or it dies. Is the carb still dirty, possibly a jet? Or could this be faulty spark plugs, or something else? The bike probably needs an oil change, too, if that could be the culprit. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 03:56
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Anyone have advice on negotiating a new bike? Are dealers willing to haggle like with a car, or is MSRP basically what you pay? I'm going to be buying the Gladius when they get one in stock this week, and it would be nice to shave a few bucks off the deal. It's a new model, but I don't know if they're flying off the floor in this economy or not, and I can't find any info on actual dealer costs.
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Apr 6, 2009 15:28
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chryst posted:Anyone have advice on negotiating a new bike? Are dealers willing to haggle like with a car, or is MSRP basically what you pay? I'm going to be buying the Gladius when they get one in stock this week, and it would be nice to shave a few bucks off the deal. It's a new model, but I don't know if they're flying off the floor in this economy or not, and I can't find any info on actual dealer costs. Yes, you can haggle them down. Especially with the economy being poo poo, they're desperately trying to sell bikes. Usually there's at least 500$ in bullshit "documentation fees" that they tack on to whatever you see on the floor. You're going to have a much harder time doing it with a brand new bike, but it'll depend on the individual dealership and how many gladiuses they think they're going to sell. If they figure they'll have no issue selling them, don't count on a lot of wiggle room...if you live in a place where it's all I4s, all the time, then you can probably talk them down a fair bit.
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Apr 6, 2009 16:40
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chryst posted:Anyone have advice on negotiating a new bike? Are dealers willing to haggle like with a car, or is MSRP basically what you pay? I'm going to be buying the Gladius when they get one in stock this week, and it would be nice to shave a few bucks off the deal. It's a new model, but I don't know if they're flying off the floor in this economy or not, and I can't find any info on actual dealer costs. Every Suzuki dealer in the Cincinnati area has been willing to knock off 400-500 from the MSRP. One dealer though seems to be mad I want an SV650 instead of buying the "way more cooler and popular 650R that we sell 10x more of that even costs less!" but that seems to be the fluke. Seriously why the gently caress would a dealer not want to sell one brand they sell and push a different one (both bikes on the floor).
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Apr 6, 2009 17:32
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dietcokefiend posted:Seriously why the gently caress would a dealer not want to sell one brand they sell and push a different one (both bikes on the floor). Sales quotas and/or bonuses?
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Apr 6, 2009 19:09
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Think regular bar risers will work with this setup? I haven't measured it yet but it looks like they will.  I want something like this:  To get the bars higher and further back. Obviously I will test cable length first, but I'm pretty sure my clutch and throttle cable have plenty of room for adjustment. Only thing I'm slightly worried about is the angle already built into them means extending them back will make it narrower, but hopefully it won't be a big deal. Tips for a cheap place to buy them appreciated!
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Apr 6, 2009 19:47
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Well I completed step 1 of getting to the stator on my bike   Having to remove the engine from the frame was loads of fun. Fortunately all of the work seems to have been worth it.  If you look at the bottom part of the stator, that's not gunk. The insulation on those poles (hope I'm using the right term) is shot, which tells me that it has failed. Thanks again Nerobro for pointing me in the right direction.
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Apr 6, 2009 20:37
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Ola posted:Think regular bar risers will work with this setup? I haven't measured it yet but it looks like they will. No, it won't work. You have two options. find the triples off a GS750L, or the risers off a GS550L. The bars from a GS550E are also taller. Or you can find the handlebar mounts for.... a honda 50. they actually screw directly into the riser mounts on your triple tree! Bob Sapp Please posted:If you look at the bottom part of the stator, that's not gunk. The insulation on those poles (hope I'm using the right term) is shot, which tells me that it has failed. Going to rewind? or replace?
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Apr 6, 2009 20:47
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Nerobro posted:No, it won't work. It's because (I haven't looked properly) the top part doesn't actually come loose right? This guy is parting out some stuff: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=139356 Will the 83 GS750E have suitable risers?
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Apr 6, 2009 22:59
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My restored bike is nearly perfect, but I'm having trouble chasing down an annoying problem. My instrument cluster turns on and off while riding. It generally comes on when I rev the bike above 9000 rpm, and stays on for a few minutes. After that it dies again, until I rev the engine again. It will also stop working if I turn my handlebars hard left. I suppose I'll eventually have to dig down to the wiring harness, but does anyone have any pointers regarding pinpointing the issue? The speedo still works regardless of the instrument cluster blinking out, so I've been living with it for the time being, but I can never be totally sure I've found neutral without my little green indicator. Any ideas?
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Apr 6, 2009 23:21
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NVaderJ posted:My restored bike is nearly perfect, but I'm having trouble chasing down an annoying problem. Sounds like you've got a pinched/damaged wire that makes contact when you turn it full left. Take a look at the wiring harness and see if you can recreate it by pushing or pulling on the wiring loom until it goes on or off...that's where your short is.
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Apr 6, 2009 23:35
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Nerobro posted:Going to rewind? or replace? I'm just going to replace it. I could probably do it, but I'd rather not find out the expensive way that I screwed it up. I'll just remove the engine once  . Plus, a new aftermarket one wasn't too bad cost wise ($120).
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Apr 7, 2009 00:29
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Z3n posted:Yes, you can haggle them down. Especially with the economy being poo poo, they're desperately trying to sell bikes. Usually there's at least 500$ in bullshit "documentation fees" that they tack on to whatever you see on the floor. You're going to have a much harder time doing it with a brand new bike, but it'll depend on the individual dealership and how many gladiuses they think they're going to sell. If they figure they'll have no issue selling them, don't count on a lot of wiggle room...if you live in a place where it's all I4s, all the time, then you can probably talk them down a fair bit. Put the deposit down, and just waiting for my bank to fedex the check for the loan. I managed to get them to knock off their $250 admin fees, and got a hundred bucks of accessories thrown in. I probably could have hardballed, but I'm terrible at haggling.
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Apr 7, 2009 01:16
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The Gladius is a pretty cool looking bike, I didn't think Suzuki was brave enough to bring them here until I saw on at the bike show, and yes they do look better in person. Your haggling skills are decent if you can get them to move at all on a brand new model. Usually they want to see if the bike is a mover or a dust collector, could be that they want to get some out on the street. You did get the bike you wanted, that counts as a win.
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Apr 7, 2009 02:33
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chryst posted:Got myself a new bike! The blue/white Gladius looks a lot better in person than on the internet, so I decided not to wait for the black one to come in. Congrats! Post pics when you get it, I think you're the first CA gladius owner
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Apr 7, 2009 03:32
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Ola posted:It's because (I haven't looked properly) the top part doesn't actually come loose right? Yup, it's becasue it's a clamping part, not a cap and screws. The E's are a little taller. AT least on the 550's the E's were taller. :-) I can't be absolutely sure though. You could also buy some 7/8" bars, which have rise to them, and cut them in half ;-) clamp them on seperately.
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Apr 7, 2009 03:57
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In all black I think the gladius looks kinda decent however here in NZ it costs about $400 more than the SV650s 
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Apr 7, 2009 11:07
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bobula posted:There are only a couple of things it could be. Bearings or the front brakes rubbing. Having paid more attention the last couple of time out on the bike: it appears to only happen after the brakes have warmed up- could it be that the disc/pads get warm, expand slightly and are just contacting enough to make the squeak? If so I assume there is something to adjust to move them out slightly so this doesn't happen?
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Apr 7, 2009 11:29
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Nerobro posted:
Hey now, that's an excellent idea. Thanks much! I can get some pretty cheap bars locally, will check them out. edit, can't believe I didn't think of this before. I can widen them and everything!
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Apr 7, 2009 11:53
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Phat_Albert posted:Is there any interest in rehosting the biekwiki? I've got a server I'll host it on. Catch me on IRC.
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Apr 7, 2009 14:02
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Need advice on my audio setup. My iPod Shuffle died in the washing machine, and it was never that great anyway. My priorities are noise blocking, sound quality, and loooonnggg battery life, as I may be unable to charge it some nights on road trips. What do you guys think of this matchup: The Etymotic 6i headphones with a Cowon iAudio 7 Any other suggestions? EDIT: It must be Linux (Ubuntu 8.10) compatible.
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Apr 7, 2009 16:13
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MrKatharsis posted:Need advice on my audio setup. My iPod Shuffle died in the washing machine, and it was never that great anyway. My priorities are noise blocking, sound quality, and loooonnggg battery life, as I may be unable to charge it some nights on road trips. What do you guys think of this matchup: I've played with a bunch of setups but I still think the best one I've found is an old iriver H10. It has a nifty little remote with taticle switches and buttons, remote display, long battery life, and enough amplification to drown out the wind with the er6 headphones I've got. The remote is really what makes the package perfect for me. ipods are temperamental at best with their touch wheel and gloves, plus you need to be looking at the screen at all times to see where you are. With the remote I can glance down see where I am and hit the direction switch a certain number of times to advance a certain number of spaces. I'd see about getting a Cowon x5 and buying a remote for it: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cowon-iAudio-X5-Remote-Control/dp/B000BB0ERM
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Apr 7, 2009 16:36
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Budgie posted:Having paid more attention the last couple of time out on the bike: it appears to only happen after the brakes have warmed up- could it be that the disc/pads get warm, expand slightly and are just contacting enough to make the squeak? If so I assume there is something to adjust to move them out slightly so this doesn't happen? As far as I know there's no way to adjust those brakes. I'm not sure which kind of caliper that bike uses, but some calipers have pins to slide back and forth on when it's braking and sometimes those will get sticky and not let the caliper return to a loose position after you've let off the lever. You might want to just pop the caliper off, pull the pads out and make sure everything looks good in there.
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Apr 7, 2009 16:40
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Budgie posted:Having paid more attention the last couple of time out on the bike: it appears to only happen after the brakes have warmed up- could it be that the disc/pads get warm, expand slightly and are just contacting enough to make the squeak? If so I assume there is something to adjust to move them out slightly so this doesn't happen? Try bleeding the lines. I wonder if some moisture in the lines is getting hot and expanding, putting pressure on the system. Also I found this thread while searching for brakes. Its an amazing thread that chronicles a man destroying his clutch and engine doing wheelies: http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=134364 quote:ok so changed the brake and i still cant wheelie. what else could it be? it still seems to start to skid after i let off the throttle. something to do with the chain, sprocket, tire? what is going on?????/ 
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Apr 7, 2009 16:50
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8ender posted:Try bleeding the lines. I wonder if some moisture in the lines is getting hot and expanding, putting pressure on the system. The best part is where you get to the end...what's the real issue? Blown headgasket/running on 3 from him running it out of oil! Ignoring the fact that his bike was smoking because after 3 days it must just be coolant burning off from his radiator flush! "It won't wheelie! MUST BE THE REAR BRAKE!"
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Apr 7, 2009 17:17
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Z3n posted:"It won't wheelie! MUST BE THE REAR BRAKE!" I like how his assessment of the bikes health is entirely based on whether or not he can do wheelies: quote:i dont know it smoked for a couple days after i noticed it to be a loose oil filter. i thought it was radiator fluid cuz i flushed my radiator so i thought it was burning off. after a few days i was like no way it could be that. i dont know how low it got no but i think i could still wheelie after i did, at least not for long. BIKE STILL WHEELIED AFTER LOOSING A LOT OF OIL, MUST BE SOMETHING ELSE
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Apr 7, 2009 17:26
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I think my IQ's dropped a few points after reading that thread.quote:tube is in a bottle of water so the air bubbles go out and doesnt let air back in. thats how you bleed brake lines.
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Apr 7, 2009 17:32
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The really sad part is that in any other situation, I bet that this story would have been a triumph for a modern motorcycle limping home. Run it out of oil for 3 days, and it still goes good enough to ride wheelies on... Also  at the loving introducing water to the braking system.
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Apr 7, 2009 17:34
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Spartak posted:In all black I think the gladius looks kinda decent How are bikes like this or the naked SV650 on the interstate? I love the looks of standards without all the plastics, but I keep looking at the Versys for interstate riding. I mean, they have to be better than my small cruiser with absolutely no wind protection, but I'm completely sick of getting really tired after a couple hours at 70 mph.
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Apr 7, 2009 18:21
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Uthor posted:How are bikes like this or the naked SV650 on the interstate? I love the looks of standards without all the plastics, but I keep looking at the Versys for interstate riding. I mean, they have to be better than my small cruiser with absolutely no wind protection, but I'm completely sick of getting really tired after a couple hours at 70 mph. Not bad. Not great, like a fully faired sport tourer, but with a small flyscreen and a good helmet, they're fine. It'll also depend on your height as to what works best...some people will end up with all of the buffetting from the wind directly on their heads with a flyscreen, for some it takes weight off their wrists. Unfortunantly, you just sort of have to give it a try and see how it works for you. I find naked bikes way more comfortable than cruisers in terms of windblast for extended riding. YMMV.
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Apr 7, 2009 18:27
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^^ I don't have a flyscreen or a good helmet  Uthor posted:How are bikes like this or the naked SV650 on the interstate? I love the looks of standards without all the plastics, but I keep looking at the Versys for interstate riding. I mean, they have to be better than my small cruiser with absolutely no wind protection, but I'm completely sick of getting really tired after a couple hours at 70 mph. I commute on I-10 in Phoenix with my naked SV650 daily. The wind really depends on how much traffic there is. On a day with lighter traffic I can go 80 to 85 mph with the wind not bothering me. Other days with a ton of traffic 65mph is about all I can handle. Also, for some reason, it has been extremely windy here the last couple weeks. The natural wind on top of interstate wind makes the ride extra exciting. The thing about interstate wind is it isn't in one direction, it hits you from all angles. You can't just lean to keep the bike straight, you have to constantly be ready for sudden changes. I rode a GS500F for a while on the same commute and I don't remember the wind being as assaulting as it is on the SV. If you are plan on a lot of interstate riding get something with at least a bikini fairing and you will probably be happier. That being said, I personally prefer the naked standards, I wouldn't trade mine for an S.
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Apr 7, 2009 18:32
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Z3n posted:I find naked bikes way more comfortable than cruisers in terms of windblast for extended riding. YMMV. Oh, I definitely see that. I get a little tired from the wind hitting my chest, but my legs sticking out in the wind are the first things to give me pain. What I really need to do is figure out how to trade a four year old Vulcan 500 for a newish Versys without losing money as I don't have a job right now. 
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Apr 7, 2009 18:40
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jdonz posted:^^ I don't have a flyscreen or a good helmet A good helmet can do wonders for comfort on distance trips...I never realized what I had with my Arai until I had to ride with a friend's helmet for awhile. Earplugs/isolating headphones are a must for me as well on long distance freeway rides. Uthor posted:Oh, I definitely see that. I get a little tired from the wind hitting my chest, but my legs sticking out in the wind are the first things to give me pain. Step 1: Sell Vulcan Step 2: Buy old SV650 Step 3: Fiberglass Step 4: ????? Step 5: Versys!
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Apr 7, 2009 19:13
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Uthor posted:Oh, I definitely see that. I get a little tired from the wind hitting my chest, but my legs sticking out in the wind are the first things to give me pain. Ask this guy to help you.
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Apr 7, 2009 20:18
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Z3n posted:Step 1: Sell Vulcan Shouldn't I use a Ninja 650 instead?
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Apr 7, 2009 22:26
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Uthor posted:Shouldn't I use a Ninja 650 instead? I don't think you could find a Ninja 650 for the price of a 4 year old Vulcan 500. But it would be a little more authentic than a SV done up like like a
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Apr 8, 2009 00:00
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Can anyone recommend a good paint for an old luggage rack? Its the older tube type common for UJM's of the 70's. Its been blasted and primered by the previous owner. I'd like to paint it black but I'm going to need something that will stand up to chips and scratches. I though maybe POR15 but I've heard its very sensitive to sunlight.
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Apr 8, 2009 03:23
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8ender posted:Can anyone recommend a good paint for an old luggage rack? Its the older tube type common for UJM's of the 70's. Its been blasted and primered by the previous owner. I'd like to paint it black but I'm going to need something that will stand up to chips and scratches. Why not bed liner? Black, durable, easy to apply. The non-slip nature of the coating would probably help hold crap in place as well.
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Apr 8, 2009 03:34
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