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Phat_Albert posted:I would, but I dont want something that sticks out like that. Its too JDM. I was just kidding actually.  And yes I agree, impossible. I suppose the obvious silver one would work just fine though. http://www.tapeworks.com/Customer%20Bikes/Customers2007/2007Feb/2007feb.LandenricheyR1.html This got me interested in rim tape too. There's plenty of red paint on my bike so I guess red tape would work. It would be a symbol of my government resistance, your red tape doesn't keep me from moving!
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Apr 17, 2009 21:30
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Z3n posted:Now that you mention it though: I wonder if the PO had the fuel hoses hooked up backwards. So he swaps it over to "reserve", but it's really moving to on, and it not being completely full before could explain it only going 150 miles. I did try both settings with no luck last night, but I'll try again now that I'm home from work. I'm going to need a battery charger pretty soon as well...
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Apr 18, 2009 00:57
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an actual frog fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Apr 18, 2009 01:30
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Ola posted:What bike is it? Does the bogging point move a bit with temperature or is it dead on every time? I'd check the plugs for color and the air filter first. Maybe you're overdue for a valve clearance check. I plan on checking the plugs tomorrow. I don't have a torque wrench handy for reinstalling them; is it safe to torque them by feel, or do I get to go buy another tool (I might actually enjoy that)? One thing that concerns me is that the plugs are missing from the pilot screw cavities. I just read that engine vibration can cause pilot screws to move on their own (and occasionally just fall out completely). Is there any easy way to tell if they're out of factory adjustment without loving them up? I understand they control air-fuel mixture, and my bike has been running lean since I got it. I thought it was just a poorly sealed airbox, but if the pilot screws have been slowly turning clockwise, I guess that would also create lean conditions. Any input appreciated! I want to ride this thing again before the lovely weather hits Sunday evening.
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Apr 18, 2009 02:46
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Phy posted:What's the best way to align your wheels if you don't trust the notches on the swingarm? You can measure from the center of the axle on either side of the bike to some fixed point. Say the swingarm axle, the peg mounting bolts (if they bolt up the same on both sides) or whatever. I usually do this once on a new bike to see if the hash marks are true or not. If they are ok, I never bother again. I have been pretty lucky and most of my bikes have been drat close.
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Apr 18, 2009 03:16
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Dear people inside my computer, I have come to the conclusion that I should raise the ride height of my motorcycle by adjusting the rear spring. Bike is a 93 Kawasaki EX500 with stock suspension so it's probably sagging from age. The bike does not sit comfortably on the kickstand. On even the slightest incline I'm worried that the wind is going to blow it over. Also, it seems that even in the time I've owned it, speedbumps seem to be more and more of a problem for the lower fairing. The suspension also seems soft, but to my understanding I'd need to swap the spring to get that to my liking. What other signs should I look for when trying to determine if the ride height is too low? The current adjustment looks to be stock. I weigh 185. Spring adjustment on my bike looks like this:  So off to adjust my spring, I ran into a problem. The manual (haynes) just says that I can adjust it, but doesn't go into any detail. One page I found from some other people inside my computer said to use a long screwdriver and hammer the nut to turn it while in place. I'm hammering the top nut counter clockwise to loosen it from the bottom, but it is not budging. Right now it is soaking in wd-40. Should I try harder? Do I need to unload the spring first? Any general advice?
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Apr 18, 2009 04:28
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How many miles on the bike? The shock is probably just worn out. You do need to hammer the lock nut loose and then you can adjust the preload with the lower nut. You can tighten it all the way down but you probably still won't have enough compression and it'll rebound like crazy because the shock is just old and it has no more damping in it. For cheap, I'd try and find a used EX500 shock off of a low mileage bike. Or you could find an aftermarket shock for it...personally, I'd probably find a stocker to replace it unless you plan on tracking it. NVaderJ, if you're reinstalling spark plugs that have already crushed their washer, just a little snug past where they bottom is fine. You don't want to strip those, and if they come out you can just put them back in. Better a little on the loose side than so tight you strip/damage the threads.
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Apr 18, 2009 05:30
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Low mileage, about 6k now. Rebound is going to make it want to kick out the rear over bumps, I'm guessing? In any case, perhaps replacement of the shock is the right move.
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Apr 18, 2009 05:33
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darknrgy posted:Low mileage, about 6k now. Suspension basics!  There's 3 adjustments to motorcycle shocks: Preload, compression, and rebound damping. Preload is obviously preload on the spring. You adjust for preload to make sure your sag is set correctly. Walkthrough You're looking for around 30mm of static sag. Too much preload and it's very easy to top out the suspension, too little and it's very easy to bottom. If you're at the far side of either preload adjustment (all the way tight, or all the way loose), you may need to move up or down a spring stiffness. Most companies have a reference that can help you get it right the first time. You don't want to really be playing with your preload much past setting sag, with a correctly set up shock/forks, you should be able to get nearly all of the range of adjustment that you need in the compression and rebound. Compression controls resistance to any bumps. Too little, and the bike will easily fall through it's travel and bottom out, too much and your ride quality goes to poo poo and the bike will never correctly track going over bumps and instead will transmit all the shocks of the road directly to the chassis. As shocks get older and fork oil breaks down, you will end up losing compression damping. Compression adjustments are at the top of conventional forks, and the bottom of upside down forks. Rebound damping controls how quickly the shock extends after a bump. Too little and it will extend too quickly after a bump, upsetting the chassis, and too much and it'll pack in over bumps and fail to track down the back of a bump. Again, as shocks wear out, you will lose rebound damping. Rebound damping is at the bottom of conventional forks, and at the top of USD ones. Ideally, you want both the front and the rear of the bike to compress and rise with the same level of resistance, so that when the chassis hits a bump, the bike reacts the same on both ends to it. Also, contrary to popular belief that stiffer is better, you want the bike as soft as you can make it without wallowing or bottoming. Compliance in your suspension is the #1 thing that you want. It's just as bad to have it too stiff as it is to have it too soft. You can put a zip tie that your forks will push up or down to see how much of the suspension travel you're using, and that can help you figure out what you need to increase or reduce. And after all of those words, I'd go hunting for a recent shock that has low mileage on it. You should be able to find one for fairly cheap. Z3n fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Apr 18, 2009 |
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Apr 18, 2009 05:53
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Z3n posted:Yes, but I'd say it's more likely that you had crap at the very bottom of the tank that got sucked in when you switched to reserve and has clogged your fuel filter or carbs. This is why it's a good idea to run reserve regularly. Well it turns out you guessed right the first time here. My buddy came over to help diagnose the problem when I still couldn't get it started today, and after draining the rusty, silty gas out of the right carb's float bowl, and getting nothing out of the left carb, the problem has become apparent. Now I'm trying to decide if I want to spend my entire weekend, using Nerobro's guide, pulling and cleaning my carbs or if I want to just have it towed to a shop. The way I see it, if I can bust my rear end and get it running myself, I'll have it to ride next week. I can then schedule a tank cleaning/recoating at my convenience. Can I at least clean the tank out myself? What exactly is involved? If I do clean it myself, is it just going to get hosed very quickly again with sediment and rust? It had tags that expired last April, so I figure it may have sat for about a year without fuel stabilizer, leading to my current situation. I'm just wondering if the tank can be easily rejuvenated (by myself or a professional) or if I should just look around for a different one.
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Apr 18, 2009 06:21
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Cleaning the tank. Remove tank, drain fuel. Get some nuts, bolts, BB's, pointy bits of broken glass, whatever is handy, some folks use a short piece of chain-put it in the tank with the solvent of your choice. Now you shake and shake and shake that tank, trying to get all the loose stuff you put into the tank into all the corners, you're trying to scrape the rust out with the material in the tank. Lather, rinse, repeat until there isn't any more rust. Once done with that, you can use some of the metal prep/rust converter, NOT EXTEND!!!!! but the liquid stuff, slosh that around, let it dry, fill the tank and keep it a bit fuller this time. If this treatment finds all the weak spots in the tank, epoxy will seal the holes if they aren't too big. I had to epoxy the corners on a BMW K75 tank, held up fine. You can use POR-15 or Tank Creme if you want, but if they don't adhere perfectly to the tank the stuff can come off in sheets and think of the problems then!
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Apr 18, 2009 06:38
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Excellent, thanks a bunch z3n. I've tightened down the spring and gone for a ride by now. The bike feels a whole lot better. I've tightened it down maybe 1/2 way to absolute bottom. I tried absolute bottom as well to get a sense of what it would feel like. Over a bump it would boing back up and didn't feel quite right. 1/2 way seemed about right and after my ride I decided to leave it as is. Next on my list of a valve adjustment. I'm going to try to get a feel for some of the behaviors you described for suspension and go from there. Thanks again, I'm going to go check out ebay now.
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Apr 18, 2009 07:10
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If you like you can also clean the tank out using electrolisys. You just need a manual battery charger and somehing like a piece of rebar for your anode. There's a pretty good guide to doing it in the FAQ section at https://www.sohc4.net. From the pictures I've seen if you do it properly you have a shiny like-new tank on the inside because unlike acid it only attacks the rust.
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Apr 18, 2009 15:58
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sirbeefalot posted:Well it turns out you guessed right the first time here. My buddy came over to help diagnose the problem when I still couldn't get it started today, and after draining the rusty, silty gas out of the right carb's float bowl, and getting nothing out of the left carb, the problem has become apparent. I'd dump the fuel, replace the fuel lines, and run a little gas through the tank and see if it comes out with chunky bits of rust or clear. You could just have crap built up there from no one ever using the reserve, in which case, coating the tank would be overkill. New fuel lines, run some fuel through there, and you could be good on the tank side. Then all you have to do is pop the carbs and clean them out and you'd be ready to go. That'd be about 6 hours of work your first time, 1-2 your second. darknrgy, toying with your suspension is absolutely the best way to figure out how it goes. Get some idea of your baseline settings, and then adjust and twiddle one setting at a time until you get an idea of how it feels.
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Apr 18, 2009 16:05
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Hoo boy. I just emptied the tank and rinsed it with new gas a couple times. I'll have a couple pics in a little bit. The petcock was encrusted with poo poo when I pulled it off the tank. The oil drain pan that I emptied the gas into has about 1/4" of silt in the bottom, enough to completely cover a small bolt that I think might have also come out of the tank. I'm just about certain that it simply sat for the year since its registration expired, and the PO didn't bother putting any stabilizer in the tank. There looks to be a small ring of surface rust near the bottom. Hopefully it'll clean up. What the hell, crazy Scientology guy that owned bike before me? Also, where in the NE Los Angeles area can I dispose of this lovely gas? I have about 9 quarts of it. E: Here's a couple pics of the carnage. This is about half of the silt that I dumped out of the tank. That screw (where the gently caress did that come from? I have no idea) was totally buried by the end of it all.  Here's the base of the petcock. The reserve inlet was pretty much coated when I pulled it out.  And here we stand, for now. I'll be pulling the carbs in a bit and working on cleaning them inside. Its pretty hot out today.  
sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 18, 2009 23:58
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I don't know where you'd take lovely gas to get rid of it. Maybe a recycling center? Maybe try shops in your area too. If someone was cool and brought a gallon or two of petroleum product to dispose of, I'd probably just dump it in the waste oil container.
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Apr 19, 2009 01:58
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I think what you want is toxic waste disposal. Every city handles it differently.
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Apr 19, 2009 02:11
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Ok, what would cause my bike to lose ignition for a half second then be fine? Today after a ride on the freeway it stalled. It then restarted no problem. It did this three or four more times then seemingly fixed itself. When going back on the freeway I could feel it hiccup every once in a while. After a few times of this I noticed when it had it's hiccup the tach needle would drop then recover. At idle the hiccup seems to be enough to kill it while on the freeway it's spinning enough RPMs to recover despite losing spark for a half second. I just got done pulling all of the plastics off of the bike, starting it and wiggle testing every connection having to do with the ignition system and pretty much every other one just for good measure. I couldn't get it to crap out again. I don't even know what to look at next. Are these bikes known to have ignition issues? I have the service manual and there are tests for the box, sender and coils, but it's running fine right now and everything would probably test good. Any ideas? Bike is an '85 GS(X) 700.
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Apr 19, 2009 03:07
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No, the bikes aren't known to have ignition issues. If the tach needle is dropping, it's likely an electrical thing. start scouring ebay for ignition boxes. also it's time to check your connections. Just to be silly, when was the last time you checked the connections on your battery? I've seen this come from a loose battery terminal. are you watching the needle drop to zero? Remember that your tach is electrical (or should be) and if say.. the kill switch is flaking out, that will cause this.
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Apr 19, 2009 04:21
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You might be able to rule out an ignition coil because a single one failing would not cause full shutdown. I had an intermittent electrical issue as well, which I finally fixed by swapping parts and testing for a good amount of time. Mine was ignition coil. Definitely try wiggling stuff more - cut off switch, kickstand switch, pickup coils. igniter.
darknrgy fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 19, 2009 04:32
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The tach doesn't drop all the way to zero, say it's at 5,500 and it hiccups, it drops to maybe 2000 or so then jumps back up. The problem doesn't last long enough for it to get to zero. I did check my battery terminals and they are tight and clean. I didn't really think of the kill switch. I'm going to try turning it on and off a bunch of times and then take some loops around the neighborhood. If that seems to work I'll do a disassemble and clean on it. Looking on eBay it's pretty slim pickings for the 700s. I did find a box for an 88 kat that looks the same. I'm going to email the seller for the PN and see, but knowing Suzuki it will probably work fine.
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Apr 19, 2009 05:05
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it's a wiring issue. If it were a failing ignitoin box, it would be failed. :-) They don't partially fail. They don't cut out and come back. They just "die". When the rpms drop, do you have the clutch pulled? Remember so long as the clutch is engaged the rpms can't drop rapidly. A coil failing wouldn't drop the tach.
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Apr 19, 2009 05:56
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I was cruising on the freeway when I noticed the tach. On the gas, 5th gear, clutch out. That's why I figured it had to be some type of electrical issue. I am just having a problem figuring out what would kill it for a half second then be ok again. Most times it's like you are saying, broke is broke.
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Apr 19, 2009 06:07
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Hmmpf. Now where to check the electrical system? I'd reseat all the fuses, and un-plug/replug all the connectors.
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Apr 19, 2009 06:14
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Nerobro posted:A coil failing wouldn't drop the tach. If you mean ignition coil, then that is not the case my bike. Tach was affected by intermittent ignition coil failure. 93 EX500. But yeah, still not the ignition coil in this case.
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Apr 19, 2009 06:14
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Well, I'll give it a good looksie tomorrow and report back with what I can find out. I'll go through all of the connections with my tube of dielectric grease and see if any look particularly lovely. I'm glad it waited until now to have this problem though. I put exactly 973 miles on it last weekend and it performed flawlessly. EDIT:VVV I'll do that for sure. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 19, 2009 06:24
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Bugdrvr posted:I'm glad it waited until now to have this problem though. I put exactly 973 miles on it last weekend and it performed flawlessly. Just to be paranoid, check your battery voltage, and charging system. It's a five minute check that will alieviate any potential worry.
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Apr 19, 2009 06:27
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So, um, how much of a pain in the rear end is it to maintain a Ducati? It's mainly the desmo valves and associated poo poo that worry me. (I ask because I'm hoping to develop the cash for a retrostandard by the end of the year, and I'd like to narrow down what I'm looking at - right now it's between Triumph, Ducati, and the Guzzi V7, with the ZRX as an outside shot)
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Apr 19, 2009 07:31
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Okay, I've looked at the Wiki article, read the Bikez.com glossary, and I'm still not totally clear on "torque". So it's a factor of force and momentum, got it. What does that actually mean, practically speaking? Does a bike with more toruqe accelerate faster? All things being equal, what will a bike with more torque do? What design features affect torque? Is it related to cc's, or are some engines just torquier than others? I ask because a lot of the huge 1523cc Harley engines seem to produce the same hp and top speed as a 790cc Bonneville, but they have a higher torque. Just wondering if that's somehow a selling-point, if the higher torque comes from the bigger engine, or what.
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Apr 19, 2009 08:43
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Okay, I've looked at the Wiki article, read the Bikez.com glossary, and I'm still not totally clear on "torque". So it's a factor of force and momentum, got it. What does that actually mean, practically speaking? Oh god, this is one of those questions that can make me go on for days. I'm making this post now just to say "i'm here first" :-) I will give you the full reply before morning. First, read this. This will teach you the difference between torque and horsepower. You need to understand that first before we can talk about "what affects torque." http://www.vettenet.org/torquehp.html
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Apr 19, 2009 08:53
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Torque VS HP Torque is the force that turns the output shaft. Horsepower is torque measured over time, (well, RPM). Thus, they are directly related to eachother. Two completley different engines with identical torque ratings at the same RPM will have identical HP ratings at that RPM. This is the direct relation I'm talking about. IE: The reason that the big harley has the same HP but more torque than the engine half its size is because it has more torque, yet can't spin as fast. The same applies to the Bonneville. It has a smaller engine size and thus less torque, however that torque is seen over a higher engine speed and thus the same HP is present. Basically: Torque = force of the engine, HP = torque measured over RPM's. Generally speaking, on a well tuned engine, you only get higher torque by increasing the engine size (or throwing a turbo/supercharger on). A vehicle with more torque is usually more enjoyable around town because you don't need to rev it to the moon to generate power. Edit: I've probably buggered it up but it's late. I'm sure Nero will have fun with this tomorrow 
MrZig fucked around with this message at 09:13 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 19, 2009 09:06
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Okay, I'm starting to grasp it, but will wait and see what Nero comes up with. Fundamentally, when comparing vital stats on bikes, the things to look at are: -Hp -Top speed -Torque -cc's is pretty much incidental, but gives you slightly vague clues as to what the others might be? Again, the origin of the question was "what do Harleys really bring to the table?" and stat-wise it seems about the only answer is "some torque", and the rest is all "intangibles".
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Apr 19, 2009 09:21
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About Torque Torque is what engines are all about. Without torque, there is no horsepower. Torque is an expression of volumetric efficiency of an engine. The better the VE of a motor, the bigger torque numbers you'll get. For motors of a given technology level, you'll see about the same amount of torque for a given displacement. Within a few percentage points. Look up the numbers on a Suzuki GS, a harley, and a KZ. You want peak torque, and displacement. Notice I'm ignoring horsepower. The same technology level motor, can produce wildly varying amounts of horsepower. A good example is comparing a Hayabusa and a Bandit 1250. 200hp, versus 100hp. The motors are both dual overhead cam, water cooled, and fuel injected motors. Now, what defines technology level? I'll tell you what to look for. Water cooling matters. Two or four valve heads matter. Oil or air cooled heads matter, fuel injection matters (a little..). Number of cylinders, configuration of cylinders, horsepower... none of that matters. Things that affect the heat rejection of the motor let you run higher compression ratios, and the better extraction of power from the air you do get in. More valves let you move more air quicker. Fuel injection has a smaller restriction on the intake. So, after doing your research, you'll get all kinds of confused. "how can all these motors come up with numbers that are so similar, but produce different kinds of power" Changes in power, come from where the engine makes torque. Airboxes, exhaust, and intake path changes where the motor makes peak torque. WHERE it makes peak torque, defines how much power it makes. Things start to get more complex once you're start making big horsepower numbers on small motors. But for any motors under 14,000rpm, you've got nothing funny to think about. I've been up for 14 hours, so if this is unclear.... I'll happily expound. And when i'm less tired I'll do the math and find examples of bikes for ya. ;-) Edit: OKey, seeing what you just posted.. You want to know about "the torque you feel". I'll explain that when I wake up. That's a bit simpler. Motors rarely have "more torque" than others for a given displacement. But the "torque you feel" is different. Before we go there. Harley makes good motors. They bring a very solid lawnmower motor to the table. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 09:36 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 19, 2009 09:32
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Phy posted:So, um, how much of a pain in the rear end is it to maintain a Ducati? It's mainly the desmo valves and associated poo poo that worry me. To maintain a 2v Ducati you need to inspect the belts every oil change. then every 4,500 miles check the clearances on opening and closing rockers. If its off, you just buy a new shim. Real easy. Older bikes will have a leaky battery, a crapped out regulator, loose neautral wires and probably a couple other issues, but you can most likely find one that has been well taken care of and had those issues fixed. DesmoQuattro is a whole nother world to me
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Apr 19, 2009 14:24
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Mechanism Eight posted:British or American gallons? I usually let it run a bit higher than that. It sounds like I just drive it around at a higher running speed.
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Apr 19, 2009 15:07
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Phy posted:So, um, how much of a pain in the rear end is it to maintain a Ducati? It's mainly the desmo valves and associated poo poo that worry me. How mechanically experienced are you? From what I understand, it's really not as bad as it's made out to be. The 2vs are easy to maintain, the 4vs are a little more difficult, but it's not horrible either way as long as you understand the basics of the system and are willing to take your time while you figure it out.
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Apr 19, 2009 17:26
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My take on torque/HP. I think the simple answer is that a high torque engine like a harley feels powerful at low rpms, so it sort of lurches forward with power soon as you get on the gas. Engines that emphasize horsepower may feel weak at lower rpms, but hoooly poo poo things are really happening at 13k. It is important to remember that horsepower defines how much energy an engine can put out. Torque only tells you half of the information you need. In theory I can make a 12V electrical motor put out as much torque as a harley by gearing it down, but it will rotate at a very slow rate. A torquey setup might be good for the street where you are stopping and starting a lot. Nice solid acceleration from a stop. Everywhere else you probably want to focus on horsepower and low weight. Hope that is not too  .
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Apr 20, 2009 00:03
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darknrgy posted:My take on torque/HP.
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Apr 20, 2009 02:02
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TimfT1pNmbw I adjusted the idle speed after the video... My crash course in motorcycle repair went off really great. I'm glad I had the online resources I did (CA and ninja250.org, namely) to help with the process. The most involved thing I've ever done myself on an engine before this would probably be changing my oil on my old Corolla, or changing spark plugs. I actually didn't have much trouble with the whole process, though I don't recommend removing your carburetors for the first time by the light of a single, dim yellow parking lot bulb. One more question, there is one hose that I'm not sure about, I think it is a breather hose but I can't tell from the diagrams. Am I correct or should I be looking closer for somewhere to put it? The bike ran fine with it open. The single hose with the red dot on the end in this picture is the one I'm referring to. The two "green" hoses go to the petcock, the yellow ones go to the small emissions canister thing, and the clear tube with the purple dot was open when I took everything apart. I just don't remember what was going on with that red one. 
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Apr 20, 2009 02:58
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I've never motorcycled in my life, but want to try and have recently been given a '91 Kawasaki Vulcan 700cc cruiser. It has 16,000 miles on it and is in pretty good condition. My only question is, is this a decent bike to start on? While I would prefer something smaller, I can't exactly argue with the price, so will this bike make learning much harder?
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Apr 20, 2009 03:30
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