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Orange Someone posted:
They do, the interface is just a bit clumsy. http://shop.wemoto.com - scroll to bottom of page - "browse by part type" - handlebars I find all kinds of crazy cheap useful things in the dark and dusty corners of that interface.
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Apr 23, 2009 10:20
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Ola posted:They do, the interface is just a bit clumsy. http://shop.wemoto.com - scroll to bottom of page - "browse by part type" - handlebars Ooh, thanks. I meant that they don't sell the handlebars for my bike on the '93 CB400 Super Four page. Now I just have to find something that is about the same as the ones I already have. The previous owner, or whomsoever installed the braided lines has made them a little too short. So I need something almost exactly the same size.
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Apr 23, 2009 11:10
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KidDynamite posted:Are there any websites that help you plan a trip? I want to ride over to Laguna Seca for the Moto GP race from New Jersy but planning a 3000 mile trip is daunting to me. Also how many miles is reasonable to cover in a day? Most people I know consider 600 miles/day to be the most you can reasonably go without completely wearing yourself out. Once you get on the road, you may find that you can comfortably do 700 miles, or you may find that 400 miles is your absolute limit. If you push yourself too hard one day, the next day will suck whether you are riding or not. One thing I found is that increased speed doesn't get you to your destination any faster. When I did long trips on my Boulevard, I usually did 70-75mph, and stopped for gas every 150 miles. One day I was behind schedule, and kicked it up to 85-90 for a long period of time and ended up stopping every 120 miles. The extra gas stop literally cancelled out all the time gained by speeding, so afterwards I always counted on a day-long average of 62-65mph.
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Apr 23, 2009 13:44
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MrKatharsis posted:Most people I know consider 600 miles/day to be the most you can reasonably go without completely wearing yourself out. Once you get on the road, you may find that you can comfortably do 700 miles, or you may find that 400 miles is your absolute limit. If you push yourself too hard one day, the next day will suck whether you are riding or not. Very true and the some conditions might wear you out a hell of a lot faster than others. Spent 2-3 hours each day over the weekend riding about 140-150 miles around Cincinnati. Past few days I have been training for my ALT-Most test doing tight Uturns and the cone weave. 2-3 hours each night averaging like 7-10 miles total in the parking lot. The riding on the weekend did nothing to be besides a little soreness around the rear end. The slow speed crap made by back feel like someone hit me with a 2x4 and my arms hurt like hell on top of it.
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Apr 23, 2009 16:11
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MrKatharsis posted:Most people I know consider 600 miles/day to be the most you can reasonably go without completely wearing yourself out. I might be bringing up my old bosses Road King from Florida to Michigan, straight up I75. I was planning on doing the trip in 2 days, I think it's 1600-1700 miles.
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Apr 23, 2009 16:25
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I assume you've driven I-75 through Georgia and know what kind of a construction-riddled shithole deathtrap it is? 800 miles a day is a very long day, even for a Goldwing/BMW rider on good pavement. There may be factors operating in your favor(superhuman stamina, methamphetamines), but two consecutive 800 mile days is a pretty extraordinary feat for most motorcyclists.
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Apr 23, 2009 16:37
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KidDynamite posted:Thank's for the MapPoint suggestion PlasticSun definitely going to check it out. I'm going to be making the trip on a ninja 500 and I've done 200 miles without a complaint on boring Jersey highways. This is going to be a good project for me to undertake. The whole planning thing I mean. The riding is the easy part. I think. https://www.motorcycleroads.com is a good place to start. I find that the best way to find good roads is to ask other bikers or sometimes RVers along the way. They're usually traveling for the sake of traveling and can recommend good ways to get where you're going. Fun roads take time though and will greatly lengthen your trip but if you have the time you should try to avoid all the interstates. When I road out to the GP in 03 I really enjoyed the Exterterrestial Highway in southern NV and going into Yosemite and then taking this road: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&sou...15&ie=UTF8&z=10 into San Jose.
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Apr 23, 2009 16:53
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MrKatharsis posted:Most people I know consider 600 miles/day to be the most you can reasonably go without completely wearing yourself out. Once you get on the road, you may find that you can comfortably do 700 miles, or you may find that 400 miles is your absolute limit. If you push yourself too hard one day, the next day will suck whether you are riding or not. 600 miles day after day will wear you out pretty quick espically if you encounter some varying weather or temps. I find that 400 - 500 is a good sweet spot for day after day milage. Allows time for sit down meals, taking photos and finding good roads. It's pretty easy to carve up 700 miles a day if you're on interstate and can get comfortable for a long haul, 700 miles on state highways and service roads would be a really long day. I think it's easiest to plan to do states in days. For crossing a western state take a day, or two if you want to see more of the scenary. For eastern states that are smaller blow through 2 per day. New England statelets can be crossed in hours.
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Apr 23, 2009 16:57
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MrKatharsis posted:I assume you've driven I-75 through Georgia and know what kind of a construction-riddled shithole deathtrap it is? I've rode through it a few times in a car, it's a long loving state. The roads can't be any worse than I-75 in Michigan We used to do the Michigan -> Florida in 24 hours straight. Hell, we did Michigan -> Mexico, then we got there and my grandpa got all pissed off and made my stepdad drive all the way back without stopping.
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Apr 23, 2009 17:40
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Does anyone know what the price for an OEM spoke set normally comes to? I have a 1970 Honda CL350 and I've been looking everywhere for parts for the thing, and the one place that has spokes is charging $2.70 per spoke. For 72 spokes that comes to roughly $200 just for the spokes on my little 350. Is there a better option?
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Apr 23, 2009 17:58
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Dolphin posted:Does anyone know what the price for an OEM spoke set normally comes to? I have a 1970 Honda CL350 and I've been looking everywhere for parts for the thing, and the one place that has spokes is charging $2.70 per spoke. For 72 spokes that comes to roughly $200 just for the spokes on my little 350. Is there a better option? I would imagine there's a forum (or eBay) where you can find a whole wheel for $100 or less, and you'll probably get a tire with it.
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Apr 23, 2009 18:07
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Bob Morales posted:I would imagine there's a forum (or eBay) where you can find a whole wheel for $100 or less, and you'll probably get a tire with it. I was going to suggest the same thing. I looked up spokes for my Vulcan and it's $2.09 a spoke. I'd just get a new wheel.
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Apr 23, 2009 18:10
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Looked a little and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hond...sQ5fAccessories Thanks guys. Now for the front...
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Apr 23, 2009 18:29
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I did some studying up on how exactly dismantling forks and replacing oil/seals works but its all loving greek to me. I feel like I'd learn easier if I watched someone do it rather than fumble around running back to the internet every time I got stuck. Anyone near the West LA (or just in that general area for that matter, I can ride there) mind helping me out with my fork seals/oil? Beer/Food/Frustration compensation included of course. 
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Apr 23, 2009 18:32
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Bob Morales posted:I've rode through it a few times in a car, it's a long loving state. The roads can't be any worse than I-75 in Michigan Driving and riding are 2 completely different things. I75 and I85 in Georgia are nightmarish IMHO. I've been away for a year but it was bike nightmare when I left. I would strong recommend looking at alternate routes for those 2 interstates. It's a combination of both rough roads due to construction as well as dumb SOB drivers. I grew up there learned to drive there and never felt comfortable riding on the interstates there. However In FL and NC and TN I was fine. Just something to think about from a native perspective.
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Apr 23, 2009 23:23
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Bob Morales posted:I've rode through it a few times in a car, it's a long loving state. The roads can't be any worse than I-75 in Michigan I-75 in Ohio blows nuts too, especially in the Dayton area...I think you should expand the trip to at least 3 days if you're just going to do all freeway. Gets boring, quick.
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Apr 23, 2009 23:48
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CoolBlue posted:Ohio blows nuts too. Fixed. Every time I drive through Ohio it's miserable. Construction and police all over the place.
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Apr 23, 2009 23:59
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waptang posted:Fixed. Every time I drive through Ohio it's miserable. Construction and police all over the place. Fair enough. The number of highway patrol officers shooting laser/radar seems to grow exponentially every year. The construction is worse though, for every project they complete 10 more get started. By the time they finish adding 1 lane to a highway, capacity has grown to the point where it needs another one. I swear there are sections of 71, 270 and 75 that have been under construction since I was born.
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Apr 24, 2009 00:43
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CoolBlue posted:Fair enough. The number of highway patrol officers shooting laser/radar seems to grow exponentially every year. The construction is worse though, for every project they complete 10 more get started. By the time they finish adding 1 lane to a highway, capacity has grown to the point where it needs another one. I swear there are sections of 71, 270 and 75 that have been under construction since I was born. I live in Indiana and my dad live in New York, so I drive through Ohio whenever I got out to see him. I take 70, 270, 71, and 271 and there always seems to be construction on every one of them.
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Apr 24, 2009 15:48
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Sanity Check: Is it perfectly reasonable to buy a normal car satnav and stick it in the top of my tank bag where I can check it every now and then? Seriously gently caress paying £300+ for motorcycle specific ones.
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Apr 24, 2009 16:36
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Yes, it is perfectly acceptable to use a regular car GPS. Just bring a plastic baggie to waterproof it.
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Apr 24, 2009 16:38
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On this same note, are there any good motorcycle cell phone mounts? I have an AT&T Tilt with Garmin installed on it, and I'd like to be able to use it to navigate, but I dont have a good way to securely mount it.
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Apr 24, 2009 16:52
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Phat_Albert posted:On this same note, are there any good motorcycle cell phone mounts? I have an AT&T Tilt with Garmin installed on it, and I'd like to be able to use it to navigate, but I dont have a good way to securely mount it. Ram Mount, I'd be surprised if there was anything they couldn't mount.
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Apr 24, 2009 17:04
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This is gonna sound stupid considering I've done oil changes myself for the last 12 years, but here goes anyway: The manual for my 1979 CB750 says to use 10w40 or 30 weight oil as a "general" viscosity. I've used 5w30 in all my vehicles under the impression that 30 weight is ideal, and 5w30 works well for a range of temperatures. Seeing as I'm in MA, and the temps will vary from 50-110 degrees at the peak of the season, is 5w30 ok, or do you think the 10w40 recommendation is due to older tech and engine tolerances etc...? Am I overthinking things?
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Apr 24, 2009 17:45
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10W40 is fine in ~ 40 degree temperatures and even colder. The bad thing about 5W30 is that most are energy conserving, which you don't want.
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Apr 24, 2009 17:49
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Provided I can find it without the EC tag, is 5w30 preferable? Should I just stick with the manufacturer recomendation? I'm not really gonna take it out if it's <60 out (except in the spring, when 45 is "warm" to me). Also, the last oil change I did, my EMGO filter basically crumbled in my hands when it came out...after ~1000 miles. Is this supposed to happen, or are EMGO filters trash?
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Apr 24, 2009 17:53
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I'm picking up my new bike tomorrow in Orange County and riding it home to San Diego, ~100 miles. I figure I can follow the Mototune guy's break-in advice by getting up to freeway speeds, then hitting an exit to slow down, then merging back on again for 20 miles or so. The problem is I can't do that all the way home, so I'll likely be riding a while at constant freeway speed, and won't get an oil change until over 100 miles. I should be fine right? My understanding was that whether you rode it easy or hard for break-in, everyone says to avoid constant RPMs for long distances. Also I'll need to watch out for my new tires being slick?
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Apr 24, 2009 18:38
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God-damned Pilates posted:Provided I can find it without the EC tag, is 5w30 preferable? Should I just stick with the manufacturer recomendation? I'm not really gonna take it out if it's <60 out (except in the spring, when 45 is "warm" to me). EMGO filers are cheap, but they shouldn't be that cheap. I haven't had a problem with one like that. Maybe it was just a bad one?
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Apr 24, 2009 18:44
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Watommi posted:I'm picking up my new bike tomorrow in Orange County and riding it home to San Diego, ~100 miles. I figure I can follow the Mototune guy's break-in advice by getting up to freeway speeds, then hitting an exit to slow down, then merging back on again for 20 miles or so. The problem is I can't do that all the way home, so I'll likely be riding a while at constant freeway speed, and won't get an oil change until over 100 miles. I should be fine right? My understanding was that whether you rode it easy or hard for break-in, everyone says to avoid constant RPMs for long distances. It's going to be tiresome doing this, but I'd recommend increasing and decreasing your speed constantly...down to 65, up to 80, down to 65, up to 80, downshift, repeat, upshift, repeat. Just to get the revs moving around and to avoid holding it at a steady RPM. If I wasn't going up to the races, I'd help you pick it up just to avoid the pain in the rear end of having to deal with that  Brakes aren't going to be good until the bed, and when they do bed, you'll have a sudden increase in power, just FYI.
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Apr 24, 2009 18:49
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Watommi posted:I'm picking up my new bike tomorrow in Orange County and riding it home to San Diego, ~100 miles. I figure I can follow the Mototune guy's break-in advice by getting up to freeway speeds, then hitting an exit to slow down, then merging back on again for 20 miles or so. The problem is I can't do that all the way home, so I'll likely be riding a while at constant freeway speed, and won't get an oil change until over 100 miles. I should be fine right? My understanding was that whether you rode it easy or hard for break-in, everyone says to avoid constant RPMs for long distances. Well you can easily vary the RPM's by constantly shifting up and down every few minutes. When I first bought my car I was basically doing that for 150 miles up to visit my friend and on the way back the same deal.
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Apr 24, 2009 18:49
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dietcokefiend posted:Well you can easily vary the RPM's by constantly shifting up and down every few minutes. When I first bought my car I was basically doing that for 150 miles up to visit my friend and on the way back the same deal. 
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Apr 24, 2009 19:00
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Thanks, I'll see what I can do. I'll have my girlfriend blocking for me, which as I think about it may be more scary than just having random traffic behind me as I constantly go between 65-80 mph. I'll be sure to change the oil when I get home. Saturday afternoon traffic on the 5 between LA and SD isn't bad, right? Right?
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Apr 24, 2009 19:08
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Watommi posted:Thanks, I'll see what I can do. I'll have my girlfriend blocking for me, which as I think about it may be more scary than just having random traffic behind me as I constantly go between 65-80 mph. I'll be sure to change the oil when I get home. Well, the good news about heavy traffic is that you'll pretty much be forced to vary your throttle. 
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Apr 24, 2009 19:10
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Reporting back with my oddly acting bike findings. Did the intake O rings, cleaned and dielectric greased all of my electrical connections and cleaned the pilot jets. My intake O rings were wasted. #1 actually had dirt packed in around it from sucking so much air. The rest weren't nearly as bad but they were totally flat and cracked into pieces when I took them out. The carbs didn't look too dirty but I figured since it was idling lovely may as well while I am in there. The (electrical) plugs looked fine but I greased them up anyway. Verdict: The bike acts like a totally different machine now. It lost the lopey, lumpy idle (which I kinda liked) that it's had since I bought it. It now sounds like a sewing machine, totally steady and smooth. Throttle response seems to be better and it comes back down to idle without almost dieing. Riding it, it honestly seems to vibrate less. I thought that it was vibrating more recently, which would coincide with the complete making GBS threads out of the O rings, and I must have been right. It's still not smooth by any means, but my hands didn't tingle when I got off like they used to. Overall, I am pretty amazed at how much better it runs now. Thanks Nerobro for the advice.
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Apr 25, 2009 20:58
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it's magic isn't it :-) You're welcome. Just "little" intake leaks lead to pretty severe poo poo from the riders perspective. To get rid of hte rest of the buzz requires a lot of work. (work that's not sane in my mind...) But to go the whole 12 yards, go and do the valves. Make sure they're DEAD on. Then you can ballance the carbs. At that point the motor should be as smooth as your mothers singer.
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Apr 25, 2009 21:18
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If going on a long trip (6000+ KM in one go) what is the best way to keep your chain lubed? Buying those aerosol cans is out of the question. Too expensive and doesn't go too far. What about bringing some gear oil and carefully applying it to the o-rings, trying to not use too much? Obviously I have no idea, and I'm planning a trip in a month, so any suggestions?
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Apr 25, 2009 21:29
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Sounds a little like you're not properly using a can of chain lube. I can make a can of lube last 10k+ :-) But if you really want to be cheap. Get a little oil can, and a bottle of 90w oil. Every other gas stop, run a little lube along the gap between the chain side plates on each side of the chain, and call it a day. You're really just trying to keep crap in suspension and flung off. The real lubing comes from the grease trapped inside the chain by the o-rings.
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Apr 25, 2009 21:32
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Nerobro posted:Sounds a little like you're not properly using a can of chain lube. I can make a can of lube last 10k+ :-) But if you really want to be cheap. Get a little oil can, and a bottle of 90w oil. Every other gas stop, run a little lube along the gap between the chain side plates on each side of the chain, and call it a day. 10k? Well maybe I'm overdoing it, then. The most important thing is to keep it clean, right? The oil/lube is just to add further protection / rust protection, correct?
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Apr 25, 2009 21:38
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Nerobro posted:it's magic isn't it :-) You're welcome. Just "little" intake leaks lead to pretty severe poo poo from the riders perspective. I did the valves about 2k ago adjusted to the loose end of spec. Is this where you would recommend leaving them? I am pretty drat good at valves. I can get an NSXs valves adjusted in about two hours with every valve drat near perfect to loose spec. I am going to go and balance the carbs again when I have more time. I did it once already, but I'm sure the reading wasn't very good with it pulling vacuum in front of the carbs. I stuck three rows of stick on wheel weights to each other then shoved them into the bars a few weeks ago when the vibration was really starting to get to me. It seems to have helped as well.
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Apr 25, 2009 21:48
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This is where things get weird. Your bike has something like 90hp. So on the highway, around town, you're riding mostly on the pilots, and you're in the regieme where small changes in carb sync make huge differences in the torque per cylinder. I ride smaller bikes. To cruise around, i'm using 1/4 throttle on my 550. If you're using the same horsepower, you're at 1/6 throttle. So the little differences mean more. At WOT sync is nearly meaningless. That's where my bikes live ;-) Did I mention that i don't care much about carb sync?
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Apr 25, 2009 21:53
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