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If mine is anything to go by, the edges and the bits directly over the supports when the top is raised.
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Apr 25, 2009 02:28
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I've had an NC for a few years and am bored with it. I want to get an NA and turbocharge it. What are my options for getting 200whp? Or what do you guys think is a good hp range for a daily driver that is manageable without having to mess with the rear end?
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Apr 25, 2009 06:04
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Don't break 250whp? If it's a 94+ the rear end is fine and the tranny won't break. BEGI is probably the best bet as far as prepackaged stuff goes in my opinion. If you do it yourself it's possible for significantly less than what you'll pay there.
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Apr 25, 2009 08:57
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Anyone have a spare set of cloth seats they want to sell that would fit a '91? I think any NAs would work.
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Apr 25, 2009 13:44
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^^ I was looking to get a spare seat/rail, and the best offer that I found was like 75 bucks + 100 miles one way. Expect to pay at or about 100 dollars for a seat.STFU DONNY posted:I've had an NC for a few years and am bored with it. I want to get an NA and turbocharge it. What are my options for getting 200whp? Or what do you guys think is a good hp range for a daily driver that is manageable without having to mess with the rear end? Everything I've heard from Savington is BEGI-S kit, and then add onto that. The 2554 turbo will get you to Savington levels (  ), but you start adding in things like an IC and oil cooler...Then you're merging onto the freeway and completely strip out 3rd gear, so you replace the transmission. And then you brake the torsen, so you get an RX-7 clutch type. And then you're going down the freeway minding your own business and you put a piston through the side of the block, so you buy a 99 automatic engine off of eBay and have your car running within a week. 
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Apr 25, 2009 13:50
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Phone posted:^^ I was looking to get a spare seat/rail, and the best offer that I found was like 75 bucks + 100 miles one way. Expect to pay at or about 100 dollars for a seat. What is savington? Which kit from BEGI is recommended? It seems after 6psi fuel management and better injectors are needed? Anyone ever used tigerjapanese.com? http://www.tigerjapanese.com/index....emart&Itemid=26 Would it be wise to get a low mileage JDM motor and just start "fresh"?
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Apr 25, 2009 17:14
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STFU DONNY posted:What is savington? Which kit from BEGI is recommended? It seems after 6psi fuel management and better injectors are needed? http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=5_11_49&products_id=243 Don't bother getting a fresher motor. Spend 2 grand and take the weekend to install the kit and enjoy it for a few months, then upgrade off of that kit.
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Apr 25, 2009 17:20
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Get the china system and spend the difference on the intercooler+injectors+megasquirt.
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Apr 25, 2009 17:28
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Ok, I just went and drove 2 cars, and would like some of your guys' opinions based on their listings. http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1117489694.html This one looked great, few paint scrapes, good looking engine bay, the seller was very honest, free with the information. Car stayed in one family for all it's life, good condition, inside and out, sounds a little better than the one below. http://annarbor.craigslist.org/ctd/1111551399.html This one is from a small shop selling it on behalf of the one owner. Power steering would be nice, but it's a light car and not too big a deal for me. After taking a look at this one, it's been on the lot for a while now, and I think I could talk the price down a bit. Never bought a car before, so any tips/wisdom would be appreciated. I'm leaning a little bit towards the '92, mostly because the seller has bought several miatas over the years, after moving on from triumphs and alpha romeos. He seemed like a really knowledgable buyer, and he's only had the car for a few months after the person he was buying it for lost her job.
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Apr 25, 2009 21:22
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Go for the 92 as long as he has documentation for the clutch stuff.
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Apr 25, 2009 21:27
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And if he doesn't? What makes you say the 92, as well? Thanks, by the by.
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Apr 25, 2009 22:25
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Finally got around to digging out the USB cable for my camera. Meet Number 140, our new shiny toy. '91 Limited Edition (#140, obviously), so it comes in my favorite car colour, BRG. one owner from early '92 to december '08, guy who sold it to me bought it to replace his MG B but ended up wanting to keep the MG (my guess is he got bored of actually driving the car without having any electrical gremlins to fix). It has the pinnacle of luxury: the optional dashboard clock!    It drives really great, and there's a 3" stack of documents to go with it, all the maintenance done at Mazda garages ($20 for one spark plug, what the gently caress). All the important stuff has been done within the last year/3000 miles, so I'm happy  .I've got a few questions, though: The wooden steering wheel is starting to crack at the bottom, and the coating on the wooden gear knob has faded and is ugly and foggy. I guess I can take the steering wheel off, carefully pry the crack open and glue everything together again tightly. The gear knob, though, I've no idea how to go about refinishing. Sand off the clear coat and recoat? Buy a new one? Some magic product I can use? My other issue is a weird squeek seemingly coming from underneath the middle of the car when driving. It doesn't really change with speed but seems related to movement of the car - it sort of goes away whenever the road is smooth, and gets worse on lovely rough roads. Poking through Miata.net, it could be the U-joints on the driveshaft. Can I just lubricate the joints with some graphite or something like that to see if that will help?
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Apr 25, 2009 22:35
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aSocial posted:And if he doesn't? What makes you say the 92, as well? Thanks, by the by. Whenever I see somebody trying to sell a Miata with really tacky wheels, I tend to question it a bit more.
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Apr 25, 2009 22:38
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Anyone looking for an NB in the midwest? I've got one for sale in Minneapolis, MN. Factory hardtop, tonneau cover, appearance package, black cloth interior, wood console/shift knob, comes with two extra potenzas and a flannel-lined car cover. Stored in winter, washed weekly/waxed monthly. Oil changes with synthetic every 3,000 miles (overkill, I know). 25,000 miles, 5 speed. Trying to get 14K for it..JPG) .JPG) .JPG) .JPG) Pics were taken last spring. Color is Midnight Blue Mica. I have the title in hand, in my name. aksuur fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Apr 27, 2009 02:01
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My Proxes T1-S started to annoy the living hell out of me. Naturally with this kind of tires I drive them hard a lot, so the saw tooth syndrome on the thread is sort of to be expected, what I did not expect however was the rolling noise that I get since I rotated them when I switched back from my winter tires last weekend. Between 30 and 50 mph the noise I get is almost intolerable. I have tried altering the pressure, which did not appear to bring any changes whatsoever. Thread wear is not important to me, as I plan on going on a driving holiday in the Alps, which means I will most likely burn through them this season anyway, so my question to you is if rotating the tires back to the way they were should bring any relief? At least I don't recall getting noticeable noise by the end of last season.
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Apr 27, 2009 12:55
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After test-driving a miata, I've determined that my 6'2" frame can fit, but I would like some extra leg-room, mostly. Head is a little tight, but I can deal with that. Immediately, removing the driver's-side door handle will free up some knee room for working the clutch, but I was wondering if there were any more...tasteful seat options other than the  racing seats out there that might net me some extra room? Also, does anyone have some experience replacing the steering wheel with something smaller that isn't $2-300, or should I plan on spending a lot if I want to do that, for quality/safety reasons?
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Apr 27, 2009 15:58
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Well, gorilla glue and vinyl patches didn't work, and now it looks like someone tried to caulk the corners of my softtop. Does anyone know a sealant/adhesive that actually works to patch vinyl? I sewed a patch into the bottom part, so at this point something that just covers the godawful mess of the corners would be nice. When my tax return comes in, new softtop, here I come.
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Apr 27, 2009 16:02
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aSocial posted:After test-driving a miata, I've determined that my 6'2" frame can fit, but I would like some extra leg-room, mostly. Head is a little tight, but I can deal with that. Immediately, removing the driver's-side door handle will free up some knee room for working the clutch, but I was wondering if there were any more...tasteful seat options other than the Which Miata did you drive, the mk2.5 sports seats make the car allot smaller inside.
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Apr 27, 2009 16:22
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willd58 posted:Which Miata did you drive, the mk2.5 sports seats make the car allot smaller inside. It was a 92
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Apr 27, 2009 16:34
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aSocial posted:Also, does anyone have some experience replacing the steering wheel with something smaller that isn't $2-300, or should I plan on spending a lot if I want to do that, for quality/safety reasons?
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Apr 27, 2009 17:10
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I don't suppose anyone has any '06 or later seats they want to sell me?
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Apr 27, 2009 18:50
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Can anyone comment on how long the 1.6l engines from the early 90s tend to last? I got a buddy who is quite adamant that 4cyl engines are only expected to last to around 150k, and I'm looking at a car that has around 133 on the clock.
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Apr 28, 2009 18:10
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The Third Man posted:Can anyone comment on how long the 1.6l engines from the early 90s tend to last? I got a buddy who is quite adamant that 4cyl engines are only expected to last to around 150k, and I'm looking at a car that has around 133 on the clock. OH GOD MY CAR WITH 162K IS GOING TO BLOW UP ANY loving MINUTE OH GOD OH GOD If the car has records and it shows regular maintenance and oil changes, you should have no problem.
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Apr 28, 2009 18:11
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Phone posted:OH GOD MY CAR WITH 162K IS GOING TO BLOW UP ANY loving MINUTE OH GOD OH GOD That's what I figured... I also wanted to ask is it worth it to pay a premium because it's a "california car," because I'm in michigan. Is salt from our winters a big deal? I mean, there's a guy advertising a 95 with less miles for almost 2 grand less, is the cheaper one probably going to have problems and not worth the lower price? for comparison: http://detroit.craigslist.org/cto/1133877657.html vs http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1117489694.html EDIT: Sorry to keep asking questions I guess, I've never bought a car before and I'm nervous about getting a lovely deal because of inexperience.
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Apr 28, 2009 18:21
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The Third Man posted:That's what I figured... Lean towards the 95, it's newer and has the 1.8L. Keep in mind that you'll be coming up on 120k within a year, so you'll want to do timing and waterpump as well. But that '92 is overpriced big time. But before you buy anything, get a pre-purchase inspection done.
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Apr 28, 2009 18:24
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Definitely the 95, it very well could have been still garaged over the winters and out of the salt at that mileage.
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Apr 28, 2009 18:36
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The Third Man posted:Can anyone comment on how long the 1.6l engines from the early 90s tend to last? I got a buddy who is quite adamant that 4cyl engines are only expected to last to around 150k, and I'm looking at a car that has around 133 on the clock. Your buddy is a moron. My dad's 4-cylinder Accord has over 300k miles on it and has never had the engine opened. Lots of cars with lots of 4-cylinder engines have gone a lot farther than that.
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Apr 28, 2009 19:10
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Does anyone want a set of used but resurfaced rotors for cheap? Click here for the full 800x530 image. Front (nominal 20.0 mm, minimum 18.0 mm) 1. 18.8 mm 2. 19.1 mm Rear (nominal 9.0 mm, minimum 8.0 mm) 1. 8.7 mm 2. 8.6 mm I'm in Daytona Beach, FL if you're able to pick them up that would make it much easier.
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Apr 30, 2009 15:56
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Welp I just realized that the car in this video that gets rear ended by the train-limo is actually an NA. I guess I'm just a simple rear end foo  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P3Wc-37pC4&fmt=18 The good times start rolling at about 3:50 or so, if you're not inclined to sit through the word nigga x 999999
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May 1, 2009 15:27
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nigga, you just ain't got no game
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May 1, 2009 16:35
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I drove my first Miata a coupla nights ago and now I'm dead set on getting into NB shortly. The best bets in my area are: '99 78k $6,700 '01 78k $9,100 '02 33k $9,999 With anything else being over 100k, $11k, or too far for me to get into quickly. Haven't seen any of them yet, but I want to go see the '02 tomorrow. The '99 is a touring, what would I get out of that versus the baser NBs? I would pay cash for the '99, but I'd have to finance a few thousand on the other two. Thoughts? Also, how does the 6-speed compare to the 5-speed? I drove the 5-speed and loved the pull of 2nd gear.
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May 1, 2009 16:59
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The touring I think just includes a Nardi steering wheel. No LSD or anything. IIRC, the 6-speed just means more shifting since the rear end hasn't changed. So instead of getting 58-60mph out of 2nd, it tops out at 55mph or something like that.
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May 1, 2009 17:16
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Phone posted:The touring I think just includes a Nardi steering wheel. No LSD or anything. It also revs a little less on the highway.  http://www.idsfa.net/miata/gearing.html
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May 1, 2009 17:27
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Phone posted:The touring I think just includes a Nardi steering wheel. No LSD or anything. I think there's also a slightly higher theoretical top speed (if it weren't drag limited instead) and lower RPM at a given speed with the six-speed vs the five. Sixth in a six-speed has a slightly lower gear ratio than fifth in a five-speed. Not that anyone would really notice.
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May 1, 2009 17:29
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So I bought this Miata. It's super gay and awesome. But the roof is leaking. Nothing major, but things in my trunk are getting wet, which is an issue since the trunk is the only "safe" place to store things that need to stay in the car, like tools, a change of clothes, et cetera. Is is leaking on the passenger side, just behind the door, I think. The carpet on the deck behind the passenger seat, where the top folds onto is wet, on the bottom, all the way to this hole.(directly behind the passenger seat, where the carpet has a split)  Which leads to the inside of my trunk, like so.  Which is directly above my spare tire, the wheel of which was full of water, which sloshed out of the wheel and got my carpet all wet, in the lowest part of the trunk.  Which is now sans carpet, which is up on a wire rack in my garage drying off. Any idea how to track down exactly where the leak is and put a stop to it? This is my first convertible, and I am at a total loss as to where to even start.
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May 3, 2009 01:07
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Try cleaning out your rain rail drains, they're easiest to access from beneath the car imho. If they aren't clogged or this fails to resolve the issue you'll want to pull the interior carpet on the parcel shelf and inspect your rain rail for cracks. I had to replace the one in my wife's '96 and used a Duetto Unbreakable Rain Rail which has held up very well.
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May 3, 2009 03:17
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What's the best way to clean them out/make sure they aren't clogged? dump water around where I think the water is coming from and watch for some to come out the drains?
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May 3, 2009 03:54
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I used a coat hanger followed by compressed air to clean out the rain rails. If you pour a cup of water on the rear window you should be able to figure out whether they're providing adequate drainage, and if you remove the carpet it should be fairly apparent where the water is leaking in from.
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May 3, 2009 04:51
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The culprit isn't always the rainrail: I have a hardtop and if it rains for any decent length of time, I'll have water in the trunk. IIRC, Suniikaa replaced the gaskets around his taillights and that stopped the water for him.
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May 3, 2009 09:25
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Copper Vein posted:'02 33k $9,999
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May 3, 2009 09:36
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