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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Is 17k miles on a sportbike an acceptable amount? The bike has been maintained meticulously and by a good shop. The bike has however been tracked several times. What year?
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May 7, 2009 00:18
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Doctor Zero posted:What year? 2003 Yamaha R1
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May 7, 2009 00:18
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:2003 Yamaha R1 It's about 3k miles a year. Sounds reasonable to me.
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May 7, 2009 00:20
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Is 17k miles on a sportbike an acceptable amount? The bike has been maintained meticulously and by a good shop. The bike has however been tracked several times. Yes, that's fine as long as maintenence has been done. Tracking is fine as well, as long as the bike was well maintained.
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May 7, 2009 00:23
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`Nemesis posted:Don't worry about displacement, worry about power. Displacement is practically meaningless.... what you should be doing is aiming for less than 70hp or there-abouts.
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May 7, 2009 01:38
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Bukanza posted:You think a Nighthawk 750 would be overkill for a first bike? It's hard to pin down exact HP figures, but it seems to be in the 70-ish range, plus it sounds like the size of the bike would fit my height.
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May 7, 2009 01:44
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Bukanza posted:You think a Nighthawk 750 would be overkill for a first bike? It's hard to pin down exact HP figures, but it seems to be in the 70-ish range, plus it sounds like the size of the bike would fit my height. 75hp is a touch on the high side, but it isn't a deal breaker by any means. If you are a responsible rider and will have the patience to learn how to work with the bike, can recognize that you will always have a lot to learn about riding, and continue to work on your skills, then it shouldn't be a problem. If it's the bike you want, I'd say go for it.
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May 7, 2009 02:58
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What do you guys think of these types of seat covers?
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May 7, 2009 15:25
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dietcokefiend posted:What do you guys think of these types of seat covers? hey man do you have any pot I can grab off ya?
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May 7, 2009 15:45
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dietcokefiend posted:What do you guys think of these types of seat covers? Are you planning on starting a motorcycle taxi buisness?
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May 7, 2009 15:47
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I drained the last float bowl and here's what was in there: So I put a bunch of Sea Foam in the tank, started the bike (though that took some time), and it seemed to idle fine on choke. After warming up for a bit, it idled alright without choke, but I still left a bit of the choke on just in case. Next, I went to the gas station and filled it up with 93, added more Sea Foam stuff, and went riding. After about a mile and a half, the same thing as before started to happen: the engine would lug in low RPMs, so I had to keep the throttle open at stops to get home. The problem progressed as tim ewent on (over the next mile or so), although the rate at which it progressed slowed. Any ideas?
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May 7, 2009 16:02
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Sounds like high float bowl level/stuck floats to me.
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May 7, 2009 16:05
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Z3n posted:Are you planning on starting a motorcycle taxi buisness? I just want a comfy rear end on longer rides (5-6 hours)
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May 7, 2009 16:06
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A comfy bottom on long rides relies more on you, than the bike. People aren't designed to sit for extended periods like that. Any place on your body that has pressure on it will eventually develop pain. The fix, is to move. No seat cover can simulate moving. So why bother. Sit a little left, a little right, a little forward, a little back. Move every few minutes. Even according to corbin... yaknow the seat people? They say you should be standing roughly 10 percent of the time. We're not talking a 6 minute stand in the wind every hour, but getting up off your rear end every few minutes to let blood flow again.
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May 7, 2009 16:10
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Standing really does wonders. It can be a tricky thing to learn at highway speed. Just remember to not let off the throttle, or you are going over the bars.
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May 7, 2009 17:44
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Phat_Albert posted:Standing really does wonders. It can be a tricky thing to learn at highway speed. Yea I already learned the standing up trick a while ago when the Ohio DOT decided to do lovely pothole repairs on the highway between work and home, leaving this raised or lowered strips of asphalt that feel like a sledge the nutsack if you aren't off the seat when going over them. I understand the throttle part and deceleration, but on my bike letting off at 6k at highway speeds feels only like light braking. Nothing that would toss you off the bike.
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May 7, 2009 17:51
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Any opinions on cramp busters / throttle rockers? I bought one figuring I'd give that a try before I look further into raising my bars (I get throttle hand fatigue on longer hauls). Haven't tried riding with it yet, but it seemed like crap and it would just slip on the grip. I guess the spring force is pretty high, which is part of my fatigue issues. I've heard it mentioned as problematic with regards to inadvertent throttle application and so on, hence my question.
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May 7, 2009 18:29
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Ola posted:Any opinions on cramp busters / throttle rockers? I bought one figuring I'd give that a try before I look further into raising my bars (I get throttle hand fatigue on longer hauls). I just bought one myself, and took an extended ride on it a week or two ago. Due to its design when you push down on it, it actually tightens its grip on the throttle so it won't slip while applying throttle. You can however adjust it by pushing it up (and thus closing the throttle), this way you can set it to whatever throttle position you want. I could see some inadvertent throttle application when first getting used to it, but after using it for a bit it wasn't too difficult to use. The one caveat, is I found it a bitch to use in around town traffic because as I ride a 250 I have to set it to have a large portion of the throttle open while cruising on the highway, and very little while cruising on the surface streets around town. This means that after setting it to use on the highway, if I exited the highway the rocker was just getting in the way while going slower around town. This might not be a problem on a bigger bike with more power as you could get in the right gear to make it work though. I'd give it a 2.5 out of 5 stars, only because its so cheap.
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May 7, 2009 18:39
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Ola posted:Any opinions on cramp busters / throttle rockers? I bought one figuring I'd give that a try before I look further into raising my bars (I get throttle hand fatigue on longer hauls). I hate, hate, HATE cramp busters and throttle rockers. I love these: http://www.casporttouring.com/thestore/Vista-Cruise.html 25$ and you flip the switch on to lock the throttle, and flip the switch off to unlock it. You tune it to add just enough resistance to prevent the throttle from rolling off, but if you have to, you just twist a little harder and it'll let you roll off. I was skeptical, until I rode a friend's bike with it, and I've got 2 on the way for me and the g/f's bikes now.
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May 7, 2009 18:51
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Bukanza posted:What <= 500cc cruiser would be a comfortable ride for a 6'3" dude buying his first bike? I fear a Rebel and Virago would be too cramped. I'm 6'2" and have a Vulcan 750. I find it very comfortable, much more than my wife's '97 Magna. It's ~60 HP I think, so it's by no means overkill.
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May 7, 2009 19:38
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Z3n posted:I love these: http://www.casporttouring.com/thestore/Vista-Cruise.html Oh god, seconding this. It's so easy to just flip it with your thumb and rest your arm/scratch/wave/whatever, and then flip it back down again. I'm always going to have one on my bike from now on.
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May 7, 2009 20:17
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For tall dudes, a dual sport like the KLR 650 would make a great first bike. I couldn't afford one, so I got a 1982 GS 750. It's ~80 hp, but very forgiving torque curve. A little bit smaller than I'd like, but comfortable enough. Had it for 7 months so far, and am definitely growing into it. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it as a first bike.
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May 7, 2009 20:21
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I dont know a ton about metallurgy, so I dont really even know how to phrase this. I'm looking for the kind of pipe that I can use to make an exhaust pipe. Everything I find in normal stores is for plumbing and is a 1/4 inch thick. Where can I get actual exhaust piping? Heres the kicker, its for a CT90 motor, so it needs to be relatively small 30mm diameter or so.
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May 7, 2009 21:13
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Plain Stainless is used for a lot of motorcycle exhausts. Otherwise ,the stuff you find on cars is aluminized. If you're willing to coat it, plain steel works too. You're looking for welded seam thinwall tubing.
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May 7, 2009 21:17
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Hmm, any ideas where I can buy it?
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May 7, 2009 22:30
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http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=19&step=2&top_cat=1 That'll do nicely. Fill it with sand before bending :-)
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May 7, 2009 22:40
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If you have hand pain the only way to go is a good throttle lock. The Vista cruise can be adjusted so it applies just enough force to hold the throttle in place. You can easily roll the throttle off if you need to do it quickly. It's not like an old fashioned lock that won't let free unless you unlock it. It also makes adjusting your speed easy since you can still twist the throttle. I've even had a throttlemeister on two different bikes, and aside from the fact that the vista cruises are a little ugly on your bars I think they work better. Just push the little button down as opposed to having to twist the bar end everytime. I found that most of my complaints with regard to riding position have to do with my hand falling asleep. It just does it regardless of the bike, so after I discovered throttle locks I was able to put up with bikes with a lot more aggressive geometry and weight on your hands.
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May 8, 2009 01:04
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Phat_Albert posted:Standing really does wonders. It can be a tricky thing to learn at highway speed. What do you define as a stand - lifting rear end with knees bent, or a full fledged on-the-prow-of-the-titanic stand? I've done both, but am never sure which is appropriate.
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May 8, 2009 02:36
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Z3n posted:Where are you located? From everything I've heard, Keith Code does a fantastic job of breaking down the steps to learning to go fast. I could just never justify one of his days as there are a lot of trackday providers out here who offer some amazing schools for 1/10th of the price. I'm in Northeast PA(1 hour from philly 2 hours from NYC) so not a whole lot of options that I know of out here at the moment only close tracks are Pocono raceway and New Jersey Motorsports Park. I know we also have Nesba and Team Pro-motion out here.
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May 8, 2009 02:48
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OrangeFurious posted:What do you define as a stand - lifting rear end with knees bent, or a full fledged on-the-prow-of-the-titanic stand? Both. I do both. Depends on how long I want to stand.
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May 8, 2009 02:49
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OrangeFurious posted:What do you define as a stand - lifting rear end with knees bent, or a full fledged on-the-prow-of-the-titanic stand? Don't worry about it. Just move around. If you're on a straight road with no/little traffic, snaking down the road a bit, getting off to each side of the bike can even be enough to help.
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May 8, 2009 03:32
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Sick_Nukes posted:I'm in Northeast PA(1 hour from philly 2 hours from NYC) so not a whole lot of options that I know of out here at the moment only close tracks are Pocono raceway and New Jersey Motorsports Park. I know we also have Nesba and Team Pro-motion out here. Ahh, yeah. I'd look at doing one of his cheaper school trackdays and see if you mesh well with his style of teaching...there's a lot of different teachers and a lot of different teaching styles.
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May 8, 2009 05:56
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Anyone got specific questions i should be asking about a '99 BMW r1100s i'm looking at picking up?
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May 8, 2009 08:09
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Where's the best place to pick up a chain and sprocket set? Bike Bandit or the other usual suspects? Also, what brand would you recommend? I moved a bit out of the city and my commute shot up to about 50 miles daily. The GS needs to be in top form to make sure I can get to work every day. Currently the chain seems to go out of adjustment every 1000 miles and is misting rusty powder from between the links. I'm thinking it's time for a new one.
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May 8, 2009 15:05
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Bugdrvr posted:Where's the best place to pick up a chain and sprocket set? Bike Bandit or the other usual suspects? By far the lowest name-brand item was getting the part number from dennis kirk, and pasting it onto the search field on Ron Ayers.
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May 8, 2009 15:14
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Z3n posted:I hate, hate, HATE cramp busters and throttle rockers. Tried the throttle rocker about 8 miles today, hated it. It definitely felt like it interfered with pushing on the bar for steering and that it would not let the throttle drop to idle if I needed to go hard on the front brake. Raising the bars is too much of a pain I think, I'll keep the rocker in the tail comparment for the odd long haul and work on my posture instead.
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May 8, 2009 15:23
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So the crack in my muffler turned into a regular gopher hole. JB Weld will not save me now  . I'm also poor and don't have the money to drop on a new exhaust system. Inspection is due this month and I won't pass as-is (though I don't really know what having a loud hole in the muffler has to due with safety goddamnit, straight-piped Harleys are 10x as loud). I can find replacement mufflers online at several sources. Am I ok to use a sawzall to cut the welded-on stock mufflers off, and then just slip on the replacements? A guy offered me a 4-into-1 exhaust for $60, but I currently have 4-into-2 and want to keep the balanced look, plus I don't want to have to deal with removing the entire system, buying new exhaust gaskets, etc.
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May 8, 2009 17:04
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4-1 trumps 4-2 any day of the week. Doooooo iiiitttttt
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May 8, 2009 17:44
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100 Years in Iraq posted:So the crack in my muffler turned into a regular gopher hole. JB Weld will not save me now Are you going to fail your inspection if you have the 4 into 1 on there? If not, just use the 4 into 1. You can usually recycle exhaust gaskets without too much issue. Or you could just take the exhaust to a muffler shop and have them weld a patch on it, probably wouldn't cost you much of anything.
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May 8, 2009 17:47
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Z3n posted:Or you could just take the exhaust to a muffler shop and have them weld a patch on it, probably wouldn't cost you much of anything.
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May 8, 2009 17:52
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