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aksuur posted:poo poo, for real? Where are you? What can I expect to get for my 25k 02 NB w/ hardtop posted a page or two back? It seems like NBs in my area with that amount of mileage are going for 12-12.5 with no hardtop. I'll give you 10k 
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May 3, 2009 15:18
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The Third Man needs convincing. Everybody, tell him that this is a decent car to buy for sub-5500: http://detroit.craigslist.org/cto/1151237561.html vvv - the mechanical engineers i've come across don't seem to be too bright; i roomed with one who explained out a perpetual motion machine and thought it would work Phone fucked around with this message at 18:09 on May 3, 2009 |
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May 3, 2009 17:35
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I'm scared of high mileage and have a mech engineering friend who hates 4cyls over 100k send halp. EDIT: He's actually quite good about cars, aside from his BMW fetish The Third Man fucked around with this message at 18:49 on May 3, 2009 |
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May 3, 2009 18:07
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Yup, that looks like a pretty good buy if you can get it for $5k aside from the mileage. I'm a little suspicious of what "new hardtop" means though. If it's not OEM it's not worth $1000. quote:Bilstein Coil-Overs with Eibach Springs, Height Adjustable quote:Tubular Sway Bars front and rear with Heim Joints
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May 3, 2009 20:58
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 The rain rail appears to still be soft and flexible, but here are two leaks. The obvious one on the left, and the possibly slightly less obvious one on the right, where the body seam is. am I looking at a new rain rail or could it be something else, since the current one is still all soft and squishy? Tactical Bonnet fucked around with this message at 21:56 on May 3, 2009 |
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May 3, 2009 21:14
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Phone posted:The Third Man needs convincing. Everybody, tell him that this is a decent car to buy for sub-5500: http://detroit.craigslist.org/cto/1151237561.html Went and saw and drove it, and it was quite good. The interior is great, and the car as a whole is very, very clean. Engine bay is immaculate, no sign of leaks, no rattles when driving, though I only took it up to 45 or so. Seller seemed very honest and it looks like he took great care of the car. Originally was sold in Louisiana, and the seller bought it from Illinois, so he was the third owner. Said no winter driving, looked to be true. Mileage is still a little worrisome, and I'm not going to buy it with the hardtop, since I don't really need it and don't have a garage to keep it in. He's asking for 5, with no hard top, and I'm thinking of seeing if I can get it for 4500 if he lets me get it inspected beforehand. He also has a lot of records, though not a complete history, and a clean carfax. How do you other owners feel about the mileage, given the car is really nice condition otherwise? For perspective, I was looking at another car today as well with literally half the miles for 4500, but it had been sitting in a garage for 2 years, and hadn't really been driven at all, so there was some rot in the tires and mildew spots on the convertible top. What, if any, is the difference between a low-mileage car that hasn't been taken care of too well as opposed to a high-mileage example that has been cared for?
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May 3, 2009 23:30
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Personally, I'd prefer the higher mileage car that has been taken care of, but mileage is still mileage. The BP is pretty stout, but you should be concerned about the timing belt and the clutch. If the seller has credible records showing that they were done recently, then you're in pretty good shape at that price. If not, then consider that you'll have to replace them and both jobs are labor intensive. I can't say how long the clutch or belt will last... you might get another 60k out of the car before you have to do them, or you might have to one of them next week.
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May 4, 2009 00:00
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I know timing belts should be done between 100-150 for these cars, how many miles should I get out of a clutch?
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May 4, 2009 00:10
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I'm on 162k on mine, and it's starting to slip under certain conditions. Depending on how horrible I am to it, I should be able to get quite a bit more out of it. A DIY clutch job is only about 150 bucks for everything, or 600 bucks at a shop.
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May 4, 2009 00:54
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The Third Man posted:I know timing belts should be done between 100-150 for these cars, how many miles should I get out of a clutch? Timing belt should be done between 60k and 100k after when it was last done. I personally ran mine 100k (no small feat seeing as the car has been in AZ for 11 years!) but if you do the longer interval like that, expect to do everything else at the same time - water pump, tensioner / idler pulleys, etc. If you do it at 60k you can probably get away with doing the belt only on every other 60k interval. I would have very little reservation with a 140k mile Miata, except that to me the price seems a little high, even if it's sharp - my sister-in-law bought a '95M with half the miles in similar condition a few years ago for that price. No hardtop, but the 95M typically carries a bit of a higher price anyway. Of course, Miata prices are highly regional. The only reason I'm not driving my 102k mile '99 much right now is I'm having too drat much fun with the Mazdaspeed3...that and the 3 is a better commuter. I'll probably keep the Miata at least another five years without any mechanical worries at all.
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May 4, 2009 00:56
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I think michigan/midwest has high prices relative to the south/california, which kind of sucks.
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May 4, 2009 01:50
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I still say get a drat hardtop. You won't regret it.
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May 4, 2009 01:53
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Man, I saw my car's evil twin, today. It had a hard top on. I thought it was ugly. I'll take out my carpet and deal with the leaks before I have one on my miata.
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May 4, 2009 03:24
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Heh, that's funny since I've got the same car as you and I'd take the soft top out and bolt my hard top on if my HT weren't busted (and also a lovely SnugTop). 
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May 4, 2009 03:32
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How tight should the nuts that hold the soft top on be? I'm starting to wonder if they're loose and that's why mine is leaking, but without any idea how tight they actually should be I don't know where to start. (I do have an inch-lbs wrench) I'd just order the new rain rail and go on and replace it, but I'd still have to know the answer to this question.
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May 4, 2009 03:48
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Tactical Bonnet posted:How tight should the nuts that hold the soft top on be? I'm starting to wonder if they're loose and that's why mine is leaking, but without any idea how tight they actually should be I don't know where to start. (I do have an inch-lbs wrench) http://www.miata.net/garage/rainrail.html
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May 4, 2009 03:55
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Man, I saw my car's evil twin, today. It had a hard top on. I thought it was ugly. I'll take out my carpet and deal with the leaks before I have one on my miata.  Click here for the full 1024x683 image.
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May 4, 2009 04:18
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Looks like somebody is selling theirs... http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cl...prevaction=show :P
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May 4, 2009 04:44
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Tactical Bonnet posted:How tight should the nuts that hold the soft top on be? I'm starting to wonder if they're loose and that's why mine is leaking, but without any idea how tight they actually should be I don't know where to start. Which bolts are you referring to? If it's the 10mms around the rain rail, it's something ridiculously low. I had to snug mine a bit, but it should be done in the following order.  The frame is made up of multiple pieces, and you want the entire thing to sit flush against the rain rail. Goop adhesive/sealant is kind of a ghetto fix, but can also be a solution if re-torquing the nuts fails to resolve it.
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May 4, 2009 05:58
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Yes, those. turns out 70-95inlbs is the magic number. I've needed an excuse to buy a good low-torque wrench anyway.
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May 4, 2009 07:09
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So after re-torquing the studs(all of which were about 1/2 rotation away from 75 in-lbs) one of the two leaks has gone away, but the one near the body seam is still there. The rain rail appears to be just this side of brand new(the top is new), and did not have any flaws I could find. Any idea how to stop this leak?
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May 5, 2009 03:37
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Well there's always goop/sealer/etc as wintyfresh mentioned. I think you can use something that's not super strong/harsh (silicone?) so it'll be reversible should you ever try to put it on the concourse in 20 years. :P
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May 5, 2009 04:39
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Turns out that replacement O2/EGR sensor wasn't needed. Changing the battery apparently caused it to reset, and after driving the car for a few weeks and running a tank of gas through it gave it time to recalibrate or whatever, since it passed the emissions test this morning. Woo. Anyone know what size screws you need to attach a license plate to the front bumper? I didn't have one in CA or KY, but have to in DC. The holes are there but I'm not sure what size/thread they should be.
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May 5, 2009 16:53
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Well I just got a hell of a deal on a Megasquirt (enough to dissuade me from building it myself, anyway.) Anyone else on here running one? I won't be able to get a WB02 for a while so I'm hoping the base map isn't too awful.
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May 7, 2009 03:44
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solong as you're not pushing boost, base map will do fine. get a PNP? there will be modifications to be made if all you got was a built box.
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May 7, 2009 03:56
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Yeah I got a Braineack box so it's good to go. Got the MS, boomslang, IAT/MAF sensors for $400, not too shabby.
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May 7, 2009 04:13
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no worries on braineaks box's then. one thing I would highly suggest when running your MAP line is to run it thru a fuel filter and use that as a vacuum reservoir/pulse filter. Once you get into tuning, you'll see why - it'll eliminate alot of tiny spikes in your map. and of course - unplug your coil packs prior to flashing.
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May 7, 2009 04:28
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Yeah, I'm running an MSPnP. Cool beans. That's a great price though, I think I paid nearly double for my PnP after shipping, etc.
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May 7, 2009 05:05
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Can anyone recommend a mechanic in Massachusetts (just south of Boston preferably, but I can be dropped off on a w/e if it's really far out) to do the following: 1. Replace my soft top? 2. Weld a patch panel into my driver's side rocker? Conversely, anyone know of junkyards in the MA/RI area that might have Miatas I can go through for, say, a soft-top on frame...and a driver-side quarter?  I know of a few in RI, but I haven't been there in a decade for the pick n' pulls, so I don't know if the ones I used to frequent are even viable.
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May 7, 2009 15:39
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I think there's a couple CL Miata ads local to Boston that had extra soft tops. You might want to check into those. There's a shop in Peabody that I've used multiple times who have been really square with me. Their labor rate is $77/hr, though, which is a bit high.
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May 7, 2009 18:17
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kimbo305 posted:I think there's a couple CL Miata ads local to Boston that had extra soft tops. You might want to check into those. I checked CL and found none; the one I did find (a month or so ago) sold it before I got to him. Did you have the links around?
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May 7, 2009 22:06
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Shlomo Palestein posted:I checked CL and found none; the one I did find (a month or so ago) sold it before I got to him. Did you have the links around? weird, I can't find them either. I think you're right, they must have expired a while ago. I think both were red.
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May 7, 2009 23:32
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http://www.flyinmiata.com/groupbuy/ Stiff diff mounts, last day. I imagine only Savington would be interested though.
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May 8, 2009 00:30
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http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/1132233551.html Goin to check this out tomorrow, anything specific I should look out for with a miata of this mileage/year?
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May 8, 2009 02:02
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Timing belt in 8k?
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May 8, 2009 03:27
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Ziploc posted:http://www.flyinmiata.com/groupbuy/ I did Energy Suspension bushings a while back and love them. I'll probably do MMRs eventually. Can't justify $100 for diff bushings right now.
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May 8, 2009 04:15
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Savington posted:I did Energy Suspension bushings a while back and love them. I'll probably do MMRs eventually. Can't justify $100 for diff bushings right now. Why're you selling your hardtop, btw? Oh yeah, so I just pulled the trigger on a set of non-adjustable Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers today since I hate money. The wait is going to kill me.
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May 8, 2009 04:35
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Hog Obituary posted:Oh yeah, so I just pulled the trigger on a set of non-adjustable Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers today since I hate money. The wait is going to kill me. How is it non-adjustable?
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May 8, 2009 04:58
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Ziploc posted:How is it non-adjustable? Probably non-adjustable shocks, coilovers only let you set ride height and preload, unless you swap springs out.
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May 8, 2009 05:20
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Oh sorry, I just assumed you guys knew what I was talking about. The shocks are non-adjustable. http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Bilstein_coilover_revalve.htm
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May 8, 2009 05:56
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