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Phat_Albert posted:4-1 trumps 4-2 any day of the week. Doooooo iiiitttttt Won't need to rejet or anything? I dunno, I just like the look of the 4/2. While poking around on the internet I found some really neat looking peashooter exhausts that are intended for Triumphs, but 1 3/8" is 1 3/8." Maybe the patch for a quick fix, I really am poo poo-broke right now. Ultimately I want to do a "convertible cafe" on my bike. The later-model CB650's are nearly impossible to do this on, as the frame is much more "cruiserish" and angled...it will involve fabbing a seat pan/hump that will hide the angle of the frame. Apparently the 750F tanks bolt right on to the 650 without mods, so I'll have to source one of those and pound in knee dents. Stock tank on the '82 is very much like a cruiser and won't take the dents well. The "convertible" will come from unbolting the custom pan and bolting on a stock seat for carrying passengers or gear. The best part is I really have no power tools or welding gear so we'll see what can be done with a simple toolset and a loving hammer. 
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May 8, 2009 18:07
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Welp, it begins. Took the Husky out for the first time after getting it serviced at the dealer. Clutch was grabbing right away and within a couple minutes completely stopped working. Tried to bang shift it to get home but ended up stalling and then couldn't start it (because I couldn't engage the clutch) and ended of walking it a good mile. It's 10:30 at night so I'm just gonna put it away and call the dealer to ask what the gently caress tomorrow morning. Anybody have any ideas? It's a hydraulic clutch to boot. Edit: Nothing really looks wrong from the outside that I can tell. There is a red adjuster underneath the clutch, which promptly fell off when I touched it, so maybe that just needs to be threaded back in (hopefully). Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 03:50 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 03:39
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Clack clack clack clack is the sound my chain is making over my front sprocket on my Honda C70. I got a new engine, then I decided to get a new chain. The new chain is a DID 420, the one specified to fit the original engine. It fits the stock back sprocket very well. Not so much on the front though. The rollers are too big to fit into the sprocket's juicy welcoming crevasses. The current front sprocket appears to be stamped "428." Don't ask if I can put the original on, it's hundreds of mileometers away. I have no idea what the size of the chain I removed is -- the link length looks like it's EXACTLY the same but the roller diameter is ever so slightly smaller; A 415, perhaps!? The old chain fit great but sucked exponential amounts of rear end. I don't know anything about the chain size system other than what I just google searched for, can someone tell me "yes you should order a 420 front sprocket made by JT or Sunstar and get one with more than 14 teeth for TOP END PERFORMANCE from you China-powered engine!" <3
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May 9, 2009 10:55
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Yea, just get a new sprocket from Dennis Kirk or something.
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May 9, 2009 13:32
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I put aftermarket grips on the bike when I replaced the handlebars, and the throttle grip isn't very secure - it slips forward without much effort and presumably would backward as well if I tried to pull it past full throttle, but it does catch the tube no problem. Any way to take care of this short of gluing it down?
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May 9, 2009 17:04
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Endless Mike posted:I put aftermarket grips on the bike when I replaced the handlebars, and the throttle grip isn't very secure - it slips forward without much effort and presumably would backward as well if I tried to pull it past full throttle, but it does catch the tube no problem. Any way to take care of this short of gluing it down? Just safety wire the grip on. One loop on each side, twisted tight and fold the tail over into the grip so it doesn't catch.
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May 9, 2009 17:09
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Wooo! The Sea Foam seems to be working. The bike starts and idles fine, albeit runs a bit hot since I accidentally let out some of the coolant. Speaking of which, can I just top off the overflow or do I need to go to the radiator? (It's a Ninja ZX600 C1).
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May 9, 2009 18:20
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Polynomial posted:Wooo! The Sea Foam seems to be working. The bike starts and idles fine, albeit runs a bit hot since I accidentally let out some of the coolant. Overflow tank should be fine. I filled my system up that way after flushing it.
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May 9, 2009 20:38
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Anyone familiar with the power commander III units? I installed one today on my EX650R and ran into some issues with the software. When I went to update the mapping, it gave me an error along the lines of 'The TP columns you have in your map file do not match the throttle settings in the device. Would you like to adjust etc..'. Where the throttle position columns read 0,2,5,10,20,40,60,80,100 before, they now read 0,2,5,10,20,40,65,88,3. Yes, 3. I'm also unable to adjust the throttle range as it resets to idle values no matter what I input. Could this all be a result of a faulty TPS tap? I wasn't too keen on the wire tap they provided.
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May 9, 2009 23:23
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Nerobro posted:Not even. If hte fork oil is to low, you won't get the air compression in the forks, reducing the spring rate. Trip Report: I stopped being a baby and took the bike to my friend's place, fork oil and fork seals in hand to replace. Took a couple hours but we figured out how to get everything apart and back together. After the first one was done the second one took mere minutes. We couldn't figure out how to get the actual fork apart though to take the seal out so I just went to town on it with some film negative and got a lot of grime out. the oil inside was charcoal grey and super thick, which I didn't really pay attention to until I realized the stuff I was replacing it with was loving semitransparent red. Welp. :I So I poured the correct amount in (375ml per fork) and when I poured the old stuff back into the container, it didnt even come to 375ml, so I was running on less than half the amount per fork. Nice. Anyways, I rode it for a while to test out the forks and its AMAZING, the handling is so much better. I think the old fork seals staying in is ok, no leaks detected so far but I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks again for the help/info/advice as always goons. TL;DR if you don't have enough oil in your forks your bike will handle like poo poo and its way easier than you'd expect it to be to replace as long as you have the right tools. Don't take it to the dealership like I was about to break down and do.
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May 10, 2009 04:34
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Nerobro posted:It's not a safe bet. I know probably a dozen people on this forum that could buy that and do "something" worthwhile with it. But even $500 is to much. New it was $1000. And those people know enough to not bother. I was considering having a side business selling the Chinses bikes until I had a good look at one, and realized that I could not in good consience do that to t he unsuspecting public. "loving dreadful" is the kindest word I have for the build "quality".
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May 10, 2009 19:11
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Hey, sorry if this question was asked. I'm almost positive it was, but i ctrl fed the last few pages and found nothing.. I ride a honda metro (50cc scooter) and the muffler recently came undone. Its completely detached now and has been for a few days. Any damage caused by this? Besides the angry neighbors possibly throwing something at my house. Thanks
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May 10, 2009 21:07
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It's a four stroke so it doesn't lose power without the exhaust like a two stroke would. You might get some sooting and heat damage where it exits, but probably no big deal. Should be pretty easy to reattach.
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May 10, 2009 21:18
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Ola posted:
Yeah of course, its only a three bolt attachment. The thing is, I fell in love with the loud scootery noise, and maybe its just a placebo effect, but I can "feel" a little more oomph in the acceleration. I just didn't know if it would mess up my bike in any way. I know there is back pressure and whatnot, but im not exactly sure on the details. Thanks for the help. On another topic.. What do you all think of street triples? I was THIS close to trading in my scooter and financing one the other day.
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May 10, 2009 21:27
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Gnomad posted:"loving dreadful" is the kindest word I have for the build "quality". Oh come on, how bad could it possibly be?
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May 10, 2009 21:39
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Ok, so there is a bike listed on CL http://slo.craigslist.org/mcy/1162288640.html I talked to the guy and it was supposedly an "easy" wreck. If I could talk this guy down to around 1500ish would this be worth it if it does run and is in good shape? I have good mechanical experience but this could get expensive I assume.
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May 11, 2009 01:59
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Ok, so there is a bike listed on CL http://slo.craigslist.org/mcy/1162288640.html I talked to the guy and it was supposedly an "easy" wreck. If I could talk this guy down to around 1500ish would this be worth it if it does run and is in good shape? I have good mechanical experience but this could get expensive I assume. That guy comes across as confused when he is describing the bike. "Test ride is possible?" Without seeing the bike in person or having someone who knows what to look for with you, it would be very easy to get hosed on that purchase. One thing you would have to ask yourself about being crashed into a field, what transmits more energy into a frame on impact... dropping and sliding on concrete until it slows to a stop, or slamming into dirt, not sliding easily, and coming to a halt much quicker. The last thing is plastics run an insane amount to replace, so depending on their condition and possibility to be repaired you might easy spend the cost of the bike on new plastics alone.
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May 11, 2009 02:34
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dietcokefiend posted:That guy comes across as confused when he is describing the bike. I think he's saying that a test ride is possible because the bike runs, but it's not going to have a headlight or mirrors, so you're going to be taking your chances with the law. I'd buy it if you could get it around 1500$ and slap a spiegler bar kit on it and streetfighter it. I know a couple of guys who do hardcore touring on those with the either the woodcraft or helibar risers too. I'd be very, very leery of damage to the forks/frame though. But...those USD forks can take a lot of abuse, so if it rides straight and doesn't show any odd handling characteristics, you're probably fine. Hell, my trackbike is probably a bit off of ideal geometry from crashing so many times and the crack + weld in the frame.
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May 11, 2009 04:02
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There's a dirtbike just outside my city for sale that was apparently running when parked 3 years ago. The guy says it sparks and has good compression, but won't run. He also only wants a couple hundred bucks for it. How good are the chances the bike simply needs a carb cleaning vs engine rebuild? I just want a beater that runs even if it doesn't run well....
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May 11, 2009 04:26
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Pweller posted:There's a dirtbike just outside my city for sale that was apparently running when parked 3 years ago. The guy says it sparks and has good compression, but won't run. He also only wants a couple hundred bucks for it. Very good, as long as he was honest about it. Good compression and spark means that it's pretty much a fuel delievery issue.
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May 11, 2009 04:29
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I just spoke with the guy about the bike. Apparently it was dropped and slid about 40-50 ft into a field through the brush and finally hung when it hit a barbed wire fence. He said it probably could be driven home safely. It has been sitting for a year but has been started and test driven a few times. As far as looking it over if I don't reach my other R1 guy tomorrow and find out whats up I'ma go check this out.
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May 11, 2009 04:40
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I just spoke with the guy about the bike. Apparently it was dropped and slid about 40-50 ft into a field through the brush and finally hung when it hit a barbed wire fence. He said it probably could be driven home safely. It has been sitting for a year but has been started and test driven a few times. As far as looking it over if I don't reach my other R1 guy tomorrow and find out whats up I'ma go check this out. drat that's a good distance to slid through a field. I wonder how fast his "friend" was going when he wiped out. Wouldn't hurt to check the bike out anyways, see if the forks/shock compress smoothly without binding. Know anyone in your area that could tag along and spot a tweaked frame and know the difference between hosed and fixable?
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May 11, 2009 04:49
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dietcokefiend posted:drat that's a good distance to slid through a field. I wonder how fast his "friend" was going when he wiped out. Wouldn't hurt to check the bike out anyways, see if the forks/shock compress smoothly without binding. Know anyone in your area that could tag along and spot a tweaked frame and know the difference between hosed and fixable? Yeah, I'm actually going to have him come ride it with me and see what he thinks.
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May 11, 2009 04:51
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Z3n posted:Very good, as long as he was honest about it. Good compression and spark means that it's pretty much a fuel delievery issue. That's what I was hoping someone would say.... for the price I'm going to make the drive and have a look. Hopefully all it needs is some time and effort not parts.
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May 11, 2009 04:54
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Are motorcycle grips pretty universal? Looking for sizes I know I am aiming for 7/8", but one side is 7/8" and the other is 1" for the throttle grip. Is this pretty standard, and grips are advertised on the width of the left side?
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May 11, 2009 05:08
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Usually grips are universal. One grip in the pack will be larger than the other to account for the throttle.
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May 11, 2009 05:11
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Pweller posted:There's a dirtbike just outside my city for sale that was apparently running when parked 3 years ago. The guy says it sparks and has good compression, but won't run. He also only wants a couple hundred bucks for it. 4 stroke, could be just clogged carbs. 2 stroke, could be crank seals gone bad as well and carb clogged.
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May 11, 2009 06:31
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Ok, so there is a bike listed on CL http://slo.craigslist.org/mcy/1162288640.html I talked to the guy and it was supposedly an "easy" wreck. If I could talk this guy down to around 1500ish would this be worth it if it does run and is in good shape? I have good mechanical experience but this could get expensive I assume. The way that is worded...and the fact that it's an R1 for $1500, crashed or not that doesn't seem right at all.
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May 11, 2009 13:18
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Bob Morales posted:The way that is worded...and the fact that it's an R1 for $1500, crashed or not that doesn't seem right at all. My money would be on it being a non-fixed/paperworked salvage title.
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May 11, 2009 15:46
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Z3n posted:My money would be on it being a non-fixed/paperworked salvage title. Title has about 350 in backed fee's from a screwed up transfer. Makes me wonder about it. I'm not even going to really waste my buddies time at this point because it seems so fishy. I'll go up and offer them a grand max and part it out if it's in decent shape. If not I won't even bother.
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May 11, 2009 16:58
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8ender posted:Usually grips are universal. One grip in the pack will be larger than the other to account for the throttle. Harleys run 1" grips on the clutch side and something bigger on the throttle side. Some metric cruisers do the same, presumably in emulation of Harley. Pretty much every other bike on the planet will have a 7/8" bar on the clutch side and something bigger (possibly 1", but not sure) on the throttle side.
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May 11, 2009 17:08
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Title has about 350 in backed fee's from a screwed up transfer. Makes me wonder about it. I'm not even going to really waste my buddies time at this point because it seems so fishy. I'll go up and offer them a grand max and part it out if it's in decent shape. If not I won't even bother. Yeah, that sounds about right. For that amount of money though, I'd be tempted to find a good title frame, and swap parts over to get a running streetbike. A clean title R1 from that time would be worth about 4k, and if you've got a running bike minus plastics, you could probably find a frame for 300-500$, dump 500$ into chinese knockoff plastics, and ride it for a bit and then sell it if you don't like it.
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May 11, 2009 18:41
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Pweller posted:That's what I was hoping someone would say.... for the price I'm going to make the drive and have a look. Hopefully all it needs is some time and effort not parts. I would check spark and, if you can, compression yourself. A friend and I went to look at a bike and the guy swore up one side and down the other that had spark and compression. We got there and he said he just had the bike running "10 minutes ago", but it drained the battery and now it wouldn't start. When we looked at it in the garage it still had about 5 years of dust on it, and the engine block was stone cold. He refused to try to let us jump it with any number of strange excuses. We just walked away.
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May 11, 2009 19:39
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My roommate's 2002 Harley Fat Boy died all of a sudden at the gas station last weekend. It will power up, lights come on but no fuel pump whir and no starter when you actually try and start it. We checked the battery and it was at around 13 volts which isn't great, but should still manage to at least turn the fuel pump on. We checked the alternator with a local auto parts store and it checked out fine. We've decided it's either a dead fuel pump stopping the start up sequence or the security system has gone tits up and is preventing the bike from starting. Anyone have any experience with Harley security systems or fuel pumps, or any other good ideas as to what could be wrong. It started up fine in the morning, rode 3 miles fine, turned off and refused to turn back on. Kind of perplexing.
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May 11, 2009 19:56
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Taelrin posted:We've decided it's either a dead fuel pump stopping the start up sequence or the security system has gone tits up and is preventing the bike from starting. Anyone have any experience with Harley security systems or fuel pumps, or any other good ideas as to what could be wrong. It started up fine in the morning, rode 3 miles fine, turned off and refused to turn back on. Kind of perplexing. 100% it's fuel injected? Some of the fuel petcocks have a vacuum line running to them, if it gets unhooked, it won't flow any gas. But if it's injected there won't be a petcock so you can rule that out.
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May 11, 2009 20:51
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My 1980 Honda CB400T has smoky cold starts on the right cylinder. I never noticed it until my Dad pointed it out when I was down at their place last Fall before I garaged it for the Winter. It's still doing that now, having just gone for a ride and paid attention to when I started 'er up. I have to take it in for a carb sync/balance anyway since the right one's running a lot noisier than the left, what else should I be looking out for with this smoke? I assume it's burning oil a bit and that's what's causing the grey smoke on startup. Doesn't seem to smoke from warm starts, ie. having sat in a parking lot for 10 minutes.
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May 11, 2009 21:20
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Chris Knight posted:I assume it's burning oil a bit and that's what's causing the grey smoke on startup. Doesn't seem to smoke from warm starts, ie. having sat in a parking lot for 10 minutes. Sounds like textbook valve stem seals.
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May 11, 2009 21:29
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Bob Morales posted:100% it's fuel injected? Some of the fuel petcocks have a vacuum line running to them, if it gets unhooked, it won't flow any gas. But if it's injected there won't be a petcock so you can rule that out. 100% sure it's fuel injected. Also 100% sure of the problem. Evidently he doesn't use the kill switch and bumped it with his helmet on the mirror. Whoops. Made for a great call when I finished "fixing" it though.
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May 12, 2009 03:38
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At least he wears a helmet, unlike 90% of Harley riders I've ever seen.
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May 12, 2009 03:50
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Doctor Zero posted:I would check spark and, if you can, compression yourself. Turns out I was beaten to the bike after work today, talked to the guy on the phone about it, he'd lost the key and yanked the ignition among other things he didn't mention yesterday. Probably for the best, there will be more.
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May 12, 2009 04:07
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