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If anybody in the New England area is looking for a Miata they need to jump on this one right away if it isn't gone already. http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1158821956.html
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May 8, 2009 16:50
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Wayside Bazaar posted:If anybody in the New England area is looking for a Miata they need to jump on this one right away if it isn't gone already. well if you just want a Miata, maybe the better deal is: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/1148575576.html You're down a timing chain, and mileage, but there's no SE markup.
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May 8, 2009 16:59
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Well maybe if you are just looking for a cheap one yes, but a well-maintained 50k mile special edition model with a hardtop that has probably never been driven in the winter for $6k is a ridiculously good deal.
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May 8, 2009 17:12
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The other ad also claims summer driving and has a factory hardtop. If it's in the same shape, it's a cheaper way to get into a Miata.
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May 8, 2009 17:25
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WOOHOO!!! I'm a new owner of a 2000 Mazda MX-5 Miata LS. It's in excellent condition and the only problem with the entire car is the foglights are out.  More pictures coming later. I'm so excited to get out of work.
Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 03:16 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 8, 2009 19:36
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Changed my oil to synthetic last oil change 4k ago. Took out 4 quarts of Castrol GTX, put in 4 quarts of Mobil 1. Changed my oil today: took out 2 quarts, put in 4 quarts. 
Phone fucked around with this message at 22:41 on May 8, 2009 |
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May 8, 2009 22:37
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Maybe check it a little more often?
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May 9, 2009 00:05
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Phone posted:Changed my oil today: took out 2 quarts, put in 4 quarts. Why would you leave 2 quarts in your car?  Also, I fear this my next oil change--I should check my oil.
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May 9, 2009 00:49
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Finally got a chance to take some pics of my new baby. Got her for 7500 after everything, its been owned by a retired guy for 2 years he took really good care of it and it's never been driven in the winter by either owner. Didn't really put too much effort into the pics as it was crappy lighting and I didn't feel like fiddling with the manual settings on my camera at the time. On with the pics. Needs a wash.   Interior is in perfect condition  Now onto the good stuff....  Aaaanndd a failed artsy shot 
Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 17:50 on May 11, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 02:33
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Nice find. You said 52k? The only "problem" with it is the open diff, but that shouldn't prevent you from having fun with it.
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May 9, 2009 02:57
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Phone posted:Nice find. You said 52k? The only "problem" with it is the open diff, but that shouldn't prevent you from having fun with it. This is an LS, it has the torsen limited slip differential.
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May 9, 2009 03:13
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I thought that the Nardi wheel = touring = no torsen. Color me surprised, and nice fuckin' find.
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May 9, 2009 03:40
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Out of sudden curiosity, is there a common diff swap for when you get sick of an open diff/torsen shits the bed?
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May 9, 2009 03:53
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Phone posted:I thought that the Nardi wheel = touring = no torsen. Color me surprised, and nice fuckin' find. Nope. Nardi = 'leather' = torsen
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May 9, 2009 04:00
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Hypnolobster posted:Out of sudden curiosity, is there a common diff swap for when you get sick of an open diff/torsen shits the bed? Another torsen? or an Rx-7 diff?
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May 9, 2009 04:12
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Phone posted:I thought that the Nardi wheel = touring = no torsen. Color me surprised, and nice fuckin' find. Thanks! I've been looking for a car for months now and I finally found one that really caught my eye so I grabbed it up real quick. It is beautiful but I loathe the upcoming 60k service  . How long past 60k do you guys reckon I could go before doing the service? As much as I would love to do it sooner rather than later, I don't really have the money right now.
Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 05:59 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 05:52
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Hypnolobster posted:Out of sudden curiosity, is there a common diff swap for when you get sick of an open diff/torsen shits the bed? I think the standard Torsen is the most common diff out there unless you're doing something insane like a V8 swap or a huge turbo. It's a really good unit and can take a good amount of power/abuse. I really like the Torsen in my 95. Though like was said, I think the RX7 diff can work, too. Don't know much about it.
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May 9, 2009 05:55
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Brain Issues posted:Thanks! I've been looking for a car for months now and I finally found one that really caught my eye so I grabbed it up real quick. It is beautiful but I loathe the upcoming 60k service You can go until the belt breaks. Not really recommended, but it is possible.
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May 9, 2009 06:03
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my mechanic who has a Miata said that even though the engine is non interference, if the belt goes while you're doing high revs, there's still a chance that you could ding the valves a little bit. Any anecdotes that bear that out?
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May 9, 2009 06:17
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Is the 1.8l in my 1995(it might actually be a 1996, if the owners manual is right) interference or non? The application data at work(autoZone) says it is interference, I'm wondering if I should keep putting off the timing belt swap(bought the car at 102k, was thinking of doing the belt and other service just to get it out of the way), or if there's a better way to check the belt than taking off the valve cover and poking it with a stick.
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May 9, 2009 06:27
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Is the 1.8l in my 1995(it might actually be a 1996, if the owners manual is right) interference or non? The application data at work(autoZone) says it is interference, I'm wondering if I should keep putting off the timing belt swap(bought the car at 102k, was thinking of doing the belt and other service just to get it out of the way), or if there's a better way to check the belt than taking off the valve cover and poking it with a stick. I believe ALL miatas are non-interference. They had the same engine in them from 89-93 and 94-05 with just a few modifications right?
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May 9, 2009 17:03
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Brain Issues posted:Thanks! I've been looking for a car for months now and I finally found one that really caught my eye so I grabbed it up real quick. It is beautiful but I loathe the upcoming 60k service That's a '99 or '00, right? I would worry about it a bit based on the time at this point and probably wouldn't try pushing it to 100k since the timing belt is possibly 10-11 years old. I pushed my '99 to 100k before I did the work, and while it didn't cause any problems, it did mean I had to basically replace everything in addition to the timing belt. If you go this route it is much cheaper to buy the whole box of stuff at once instead of trying to do the belt only and then realizing you need a water pump and tensioner / idler pulleys too, and having to pick them up locally after the fact. AkrisD posted:I believe ALL miatas are non-interference. They had the same engine in them from 89-93 and 94-05 with just a few modifications right? They had the Mazda B series with minor tweaks all the way from 1990 to 2005. 90-early 91 was the short crank 1.6L, late 91-93 was the long crank 1.6L, 94-95 was the OBD1 1.8L, 96-97 was the OBD2 1.8L, 99-00 had an improved head on the 1.8L, and 01-05 bumped compression to require premium. The 04-05 Mazdaspeed was a bit of an exception as it essentially went back to the 99-00 engine, plus a small turbo, but is still non-interference. I know all of the pre-01 engines are non interference but I'm only 99% certain on the 01+.
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May 9, 2009 17:44
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I think in 02, they added variable timing of some sort. The pre-02 are all non-interference motors; I'm not sure about the 02-05.
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May 9, 2009 17:55
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Does anyone know if the NB center console (from armrest up to and around shifter) and the tan plastic parts on each side of the vertical radio section can be fit to an NA? I've seen direction on how to make the door cards fit. In other news, miatas are a ton cheaper where I live. There have been a ton of great NA Miatas popping up on my local craigslist for quite a steal. Some 95 and 97 M-Editions, too. Since I'm currently unemployed, I'd be willing to check out and even deliver to the new goon owner willing to pay only my travel expenses. Just pay for gas and my plane ticket back, and you get your new Miata delivered to your door. Check out the Scranton Craigslist and let me know if you're interested. PM or email: goku chewbacca fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Mar 5, 2013 |
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May 9, 2009 18:36
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I know you can swap the entire dash along with the console, but I don't think the console will fit by itself. There's a dude on miata.net with a full NB interior+NC steering wheel in his NA, looks pretty slick.
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May 9, 2009 20:23
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How hard would it be to fit some headrests with speakers into my NA? Is it as simple as finding a headrest and running speaker wire or as complicated as changing seats? I have one blown door speaker I'm going to replace on monday, but it's still pretty hard to hear the radio at speed with the top down, and I think some added, closer, speakers would work wonders. My weak google-fu is only showing me how to put different speakers into headrests that already have them. Tactical Bonnet fucked around with this message at 21:59 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 21:55
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http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=119366&highlight=adding+headrest+speakers
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May 9, 2009 22:01
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destructo posted:I know you can swap the entire dash along with the console, but I don't think the console will fit by itself. There's a dude on miata.net with a full NB interior+NC steering wheel in his NA, looks pretty slick. God, that's got to do a hell of a job of updating the feel of the car. If I ever had enough time and money to piss away on my sister-in-law's '95M that would be a tempting upgrade, since her interior is no longer in the best of shape (ran around with a busted up back window for too long).
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May 9, 2009 22:02
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 Click here for the full 864x648 image. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=269579
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May 9, 2009 22:08
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Speaking of dash works, is there a way to adjust the vents? Mine are rather loose and flop downwards all the time. I'd really prefer to avoid the "jam something in them to hold them in place," or "use grippy tape" methods.
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May 9, 2009 22:48
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Speaking of dash works, is there a way to adjust the vents? Mine are rather loose and flop downwards all the time. I'd really prefer to avoid the "jam something in them to hold them in place," or "use grippy tape" methods. That's pretty much it. On my truck (which has similar style vents) at least you can fix it relatively easily by popping the whole vent off (two screws) and replacing the felt liner on the inside. The vents in the Miata are considerably harder to get at, and personally I find it quite obnoxious that Mazda used such a terrible design...really, GM figured out they were poo poo sometime around 1970, and Mazda should have known for sure they were poo poo by 1998, yet they showed up again in the NB. Of course, that's my biggest gripe about the whole car, so, yeah 
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May 9, 2009 23:07
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Speaking of dash works, is there a way to adjust the vents? Mine are rather loose and flop downwards all the time. I'd really prefer to avoid the "jam something in them to hold them in place," or "use grippy tape" methods. Try setting them where you want and then just pushing it in a bit. Usually that works to keep them where you adjusted them.
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May 10, 2009 01:45
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Hog Obituary posted:Try setting them where you want and then just pushing it in a bit. Usually that works to keep them where you adjusted them. Yeah this what I do. Works for me. Once I set them they don't move once I snug them in there. And I never really need to adjust my vents ever, so since it works I don't have any real reason to try anything fancier.
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May 10, 2009 01:56
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Go to your local Craft store, pick up felt with backed adhesive. Pop the vents out, remove the old crap felt, put new strips of felt in, voila - they stick. Done it on all my miatas so far, works great. Instructions for pulling the vents are availible on m.net In other news - My dads miata is still getting warm (at least its not overheating) after headgasket and hoses replaced. Found that there was some stopleak in the heatercore and it was partially blocked. After listening to him describe it, it sounds like it's getting two needlewidths to the right of center when the car cruises open loop - disabling EGR. A couple of local miata guys at the megasquirt megameet mentioned that some Mazda headgaskets had blocked off some of the passages for the head, and that plus stopleak could be the cause. I hacked up a quick EGR override for him. If that works, looks like I get to do a headgasket. Yay. iscariot fucked around with this message at 02:50 on May 10, 2009 |
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May 10, 2009 02:47
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iscariot posted:In other news - My dads miata is still getting warm (at least its not overheating) after headgasket and hoses replaced. Found that there was some stopleak in the heatercore and it was partially blocked. After listening to him describe it, it sounds like it's getting two needlewidths to the right of center when the car cruises open loop - disabling EGR. A few needle widths on my 1997 equate to only a few degrees (+4-6 degrees from ~98 degrees) above normal temps. See if you can get someone with a Scanguage to hook it up for a bit and see how much it really fluctuates? Cruising in open loop? As in highway >4kRPM?
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May 10, 2009 03:51
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Anyone know anything about the Chinese-made turbo systems that Bell Engineering sells now? Apparently the basic kit for the Shanghai-S Turbo System and the BEGI-S Turbo System are exactly the same, the only difference being the turbo (Chinese vs. Garrett). A $1350 price tag is really appealing over a $1950 one if the only difference is the turbo itself. BEGI's website says they haven't had any problems with the Chinese ones, but that doesn't mean much. Anyone know if it's a good deal or a poor decision?
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May 11, 2009 22:59
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Guinness posted:Anyone know anything about the Chinese-made turbo systems that Bell Engineering sells now? Personally I wouldn't buy a Chinese-made turbo. It's too critical a component for me to feel comfortable relying on Chinese materials and quality control. Plus, if you ever have a problem with it, the odds of getting any kind of customer support are nil. With Garrett, at least they have a business presence in the US that you can hassle if poo poo breaks.
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May 12, 2009 01:31
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But for $600 difference, if the Chinese turbo bites it I could just buy a used Garrett turbo to upgrade. No?
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May 12, 2009 01:52
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BEGI swears up and down about their Chincharger kit being reliable, and nobody has posted anything to the contrary about that specific turbo model from their supplier.
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May 12, 2009 02:46
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I hardly think Corky would put his name behind a pile of poo.
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May 12, 2009 03:02
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