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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I will probably only be changing out my turn signals as far as custom stuff. Probably a power commander in the future somewhere. I will go back to using the stock connector's. Does anyone else compulsively label and document any changes they make to their bike? I don't label but I will go out of my way to use the same coloured wires when I'm doing electrical work. Nothing sucks more than following an original orange coloured wire into one end of a harness and seeing nothing but new blue ones out the other end.
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May 13, 2009 17:33
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Nerobro posted:There's nothing worse than half assed wiring jobs. Electrical work isn't my strong suit, but when you're working with construction equipment, where there's a lot of punishment & abuse involved, and downtime can cost thousands of dollars, you learn to do things properly. [/run-on sentence] 8ender posted:same coloured wires Atta boy.
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May 13, 2009 17:41
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Road_Warrior posted:How long should a clutch last? Just this past week my ZZR600 gearbox (ZX6E in North America) has been quite cranky and difficult to get into neutral at a standing start, as well as crash and bang into some gears. I've adjusted it now, but the clutch point is still almost all the way in near the handgrip which is where it shouldn't be. It is however, less clunky. The clutch point should not be in almost all the way in near the handgrip. It should have about a quarter inch worth of slack in the bar and then engage almost immediately. If you're out of adjustment at the top, adjust it at the bottom, near where it goes into the engine case. The reason that it's not shifting well is because you're never able to really disengage the clutch. You've always got some load on the transmission, so it never wants to shift.
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May 13, 2009 17:55
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I am completely unfamiliar with centre-stands, having only used one briefly on a rented Vespa. Just got my 2001 Triumph Bonneville, and can't deploy the centre-stand for the life of me. Per the seller's advice, I hold the handlebars with my left hand, put my right hand on the frame, and put my weight on the prong of the centre-stand. I see it press into the ground, I feel it get some leverage, but I can't get it all the way deployed. I'm not as big as the seller, but at 160lbs I'm not tiny either. Even when I briefly take my other foot off the ground and put all my weight on the prong I can't get it to actually lever the bike up. Tried rocking it back and forth slightly too (though the seller said that's not necessary to deploy the stand), but still can't get it. For the moment, I'm carefully parking it so that the ground is higher on the left and the bike doesn't lean too much onto the side-stand, but clearly it'd be good to figure out the centre-stand. Suggestions?
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May 13, 2009 20:02
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Basically get the bike rolling backward with some momentum, kick the stand down, and pull on the bike hard.
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May 13, 2009 20:05
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You need to pull up and back. After awhile you'll get used to the unique motion that it takes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2s1EY9YDzQ That guy does it well.
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May 13, 2009 20:05
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What are th legal requirements for a bike? what all does it have to have on it to be "street" legal?
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May 13, 2009 20:07
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I am completely unfamiliar with centre-stands, having only used one briefly on a rented Vespa. Just got my 2001 Triumph Bonneville, and can't deploy the centre-stand for the life of me. If you have hard luggage you can put your foot onto the centerstand and lean your thigh into the hard bags to get additional leverage. Another way is to reach down LOW with your right hand. Grab the frame where the footpeg meets the frame, use your left hand to steady the bike with the handlebars and pull up on the frame while pushing down with your leg. The fastest way to learn the technique is to watch someone else to it in person.
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May 13, 2009 20:07
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:What are th legal requirements for a bike? what all does it have to have on it to be "street" legal? This changes state to state. MOST states need: Headlight taillight brake light operated by rear brake at least one mirror horn Lights that stay lit for 15 minutes with the bike off
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May 13, 2009 20:11
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Nerobro posted:This changes state to state. MOST states need: know of any specific power requirements for a headlight, or is it just a shiny light?
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May 13, 2009 20:13
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:For the moment, I'm carefully parking it so that the ground is higher on the left and the bike doesn't lean too much onto the side-stand, but clearly it'd be good to figure out the centre-stand. Others have detailed the technique but if you want to cheat a little then roll the rear tire onto some about two or three inches high like a brick or block of wood and then deploy the stand. Once the bike is secure on the stand just kick the block out from underneath the rear tire.
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May 13, 2009 20:19
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8ender posted:Others have detailed the technique but if you want to cheat a little then roll the rear tire onto some about two or three inches high like a brick or block of wood and then deploy the stand. Once the bike is secure on the stand just kick the block out from underneath the rear tire. I tired a 2x4 under the rear wheel the first time and the end result was the center stand off the ground by about 1". When on the center stand the rear tire on my bike is barely 1/4" off the ground.  Enough to spin and clean the chain, but not super far up.
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May 13, 2009 20:24
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dietcokefiend posted:I tired a 2x4 under the rear wheel the first time and the end result was the center stand off the ground by about 1". When on the center stand the rear tire on my bike is barely 1/4" off the ground. Hell in that case you could just use your wallet or something under the rear tire.
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May 13, 2009 20:39
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8ender posted:Hell in that case you could just use your wallet or something under the rear tire. hey guys i tried this and now my credit cards are all crushed and I think i lost $5. haaaaalp
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May 13, 2009 20:46
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:know of any specific power requirements for a headlight, or is it just a shiny light? It really depends on the state. Where are you?
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May 13, 2009 21:37
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Doctor Zero posted:It really depends on the state. Where are you? CA
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May 13, 2009 21:56
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Has anyone actually driven a bike with a TrailTech Vapor installed on it? How easy are they to see during the day? Any weird gripes or issues you noticed? I'm probably going to pull the trigger on one this week for the Bandit.
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May 13, 2009 22:05
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Phat_Albert posted:Has anyone actually driven a bike with a TrailTech Vapor installed on it? How easy are they to see during the day? Any weird gripes or issues you noticed? I'm probably going to pull the trigger on one this week for the Bandit. Pick me pick me pick me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9M4ixz0s72w I have no problems seeing mine during the day, the backlight is on at all times when you've got it hooked to 12v power. Never had a problem reading it at a glance. Gripes are the issue with the tach not reading correctly (probably an SV thing, you can order a kit with a resister in the line to make it stop), and the other thing I'd recommend is using more than one magnet on the rotors for the hall effect pickup, because otherwise the speedo lags slightly on updating.
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May 13, 2009 22:13
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Z3n posted:Pick me pick me pick me. I totally forgot you owned one. Yeah, the Trailtech sales guy I talked to says that they ship all their units with the resistor tach pickup these days. Also the package for aircooled bikes comes with a crazy engine head temp sensor, which should be cool. I will remember the multiple magnet thing when I install it.
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May 13, 2009 22:16
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Putting a bike onto a centerstand isn't about stacking anything or yanking like crazy. Most of the time if you are having trouble getting a bike onto it, you don't have it standing completely verticle. Steps are: In neutral Bars straight Bike completely vertical Push centerstand down until you can feel that both the peg things are hitting the ground Put all of your weight onto the little peg thingy you push down on Pull the bike backward - I usually like trying to grab somewhere on the subframe If you are working hard or yanking on the thing you aren't doing it right I'd suggest having a friend just stand on the other side of the bike until you feel confident.
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May 13, 2009 22:16
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I just pull back on the bars while standing on the centerstand leg, no grabbing the frame or anything. Thats how I get the Bandit on the stand. It does have to be perfectly vertical though.
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May 13, 2009 22:23
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Phat_Albert posted:I totally forgot you owned one. Yeah, the Trailtech sales guy I talked to says that they ship all their units with the resistor tach pickup these days. I'm honestly not sure how powerful the magnets have to be to trigger a hall effect sensor. I've got a small 1 pound pull magnet that I picked up from the local hardware store and I'm going to see if that fits/triggers it. I didn't use their bolts but instead just epoxy it directly to the rotor, so that I can hide the pickup being part of the mounting bracket for the brake calipers. If you'd like pics, I can grab some later today.
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May 13, 2009 22:36
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n8r posted:
I pull it almost straight up, it might even feel like I'm lifting the bike up and slightly forward. But I guess different bikes have different lever points.
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May 13, 2009 23:04
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I'm looking at a bike that has been modified for batteryless operation via a "magneto". Based on my understanding this means you need to kick start the bike every time, and that all power that the bike needs comes from the charging system. What are the pros and cons of this? I assume if it was a hassle you could always convert it back to a plain-jane battery powered bike, right?
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May 13, 2009 23:38
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:know of any specific power requirements for a headlight, or is it just a shiny light? My Twinstar has a 6v 25w/35w sealed beam. "Shiny light" is being generous. If you're only running daytime, you could probably get away with something the intensity of an automotive reverse light (1156 bulb), so long as it's somewhat masquerading as a headlamp.
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May 14, 2009 00:24
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Bucephalus posted:My Twinstar has a 6v 25w/35w sealed beam. "Shiny light" is being generous. Couldn't get away with a bike light attached to the handlebars could I? Just for daytime riding until my new headlight assembly comes in.
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May 14, 2009 00:40
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Phat_Albert posted:Has anyone actually driven a bike with a TrailTech Vapor installed on it? How easy are they to see during the day? Any weird gripes or issues you noticed? I'm probably going to pull the trigger on one this week for the Bandit. I've stuck one on my EX250. No problems with the speedometer. I jbwelded a magnet to my rotor and it works great. As mentioned earlier, the tach is flaky, and as far as I'm concerned is worthless. My first tach wire was broken, and they shipped me a new one after I shot them an email about it. I rode around without it for a bit, and got used to not having it. Now that I have a wire that isn't broken, its still pretty flaky. The reading jumps around, is sometimes way off for the speed I'm going, etc. Also, it doesn't really even go high enough for the ninjette, so the shift warning light is blinking at me any time I'm at highway speed and its reading remotely correct. If you don't have a 15k rpm rev limiter, it might be a little more sane on your bike. It does work to tell if your bike is on and idling or not when you have headphones in, so I use it for that. The screen is great. No complaints. I can read it just fine at almost all times. The one exception is at high noon when the sun reflects off it into my eyes.  The ambient temp sensor is always off by 10F or more. I don't know what's up with that. On a two hour 45F ride a few months ago, it told me it was 60F out. Yeah, right. I haven't installed the radiator temp sensor yet, so I don't know how well that works. The trip odo maxes out at 1999.9 miles. I haven't figured out how to reset it yet (haven't really tried that hard either). Overall I've got around 2200 miles on mine, and I find it pretty adequate.
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May 14, 2009 00:42
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Couldn't get away with a bike light attached to the handlebars could I? Just for daytime riding until my new headlight assembly comes in. Why the hell not? You're playing around in the grey area of the law, but 1) you don't need it for illumination, and 2) it is a "cycle headlamp". I say go for it.* *I'm not paying any fines or posting bail. Anti-double-post edit: '82 CB650SC, Keihin VB44A carbs. Got the fuckers to quit leaking. Starts okay, idles good enough. Snap the throttle, engine jumps to attention...then hangs at ~3k. Linkage returns to idle. Sticking CV piston? Dagen H fucked around with this message at 01:51 on May 14, 2009 |
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May 14, 2009 01:00
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My brother just bought a 1992 Honda Shadow and I can't find the owner's manual anywhere online. Does anyone know where to get it (other than order it from Honda from some absurd price)? This is his first bike (mine too, I'm a noob also) and we need to adjust the chain. I watched some howto videos online and it seems like I need to read the owner's manual to know how much "give" the chain should have when it is properly adjusted. I'm sure there is a lot of other stuff in the owner's manual too since when I took the MSF class the answer to every maintenance question was "Read the owner's manual".
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May 14, 2009 01:13
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Bucephalus posted:Why the hell not? You're playing around in the grey area of the law, but 1) you don't need it for illumination, and 2) it is a "cycle headlamp". I say go for it.* I only need to get away with it for 4-5 days I have already ordered my new bracket and headlight assembly. Next Thursday I will go ahead and order my new fairings. Taking votes now on whether I should go back to the "stock" black with red flames or onto a different design. They have the Redbull team bike as well as Rossi's R1 for the same cost.
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May 14, 2009 01:19
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tayl0r posted:Honda Shadow questions 1. Search Ebay. Or, there are internet bookstores that sell reprints...for absurd prices. 2. 5/8" to 3/4" of slack. Edit (because I always do): What engine size? You don't have to find a manual for that specific model year. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 01:33 on May 14, 2009 |
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May 14, 2009 01:27
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Bucephalus posted:1. Search Ebay. Or, there are internet bookstores that sell reprints...for absurd prices. Lame =( I found the pdf version of the owners manual for a Yamaha Virago on a Yamaha website... if only Honda were as cool. I'm gonna go check out this Virago tonight and pick it up if it looks ok. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/1162746529.html
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May 14, 2009 01:37
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sklnd posted:I've stuck one on my EX250. How long ago did you purchase yours? From what I understand they've been steadily improving it.
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May 14, 2009 02:36
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tayl0r posted:My brother just bought a 1992 Honda Shadow and I can't find the owner's manual anywhere online. Does anyone know where to get it (other than order it from Honda from some absurd price)? Send me an e-mail/PM/AIM, I may have one that I can send you.
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May 14, 2009 06:47
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I'm getting kind of annoyed at my peaky powerband. Acceleration is like more, moooore, moooooore, MAX TORQoh redline. I seem to recall hearing about people moving their peak torque down the rev band by changing the cam timing. Less overall HP but more accessible torque. Is this a retarded or advanced idea? And before you suggest it, no I can't afford the SV 1000, Bandit or GSX 1400 right now. edit: TORQUE IS CHEAP, that should be the Bandit motto.
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May 14, 2009 07:41
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I'd first take a look at your jetting. the 750 should have lots of torque, almost everywhere. IIRC, retarding your intake cam will give you lots more torque.
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May 14, 2009 07:46
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wzm posted:I don't know ZZRs, but if it has a clutch cable, I'd guess that your cable has stretched and needs to be adjusted. It isn't slipping because your cable is loose, rather then tight. Z3n posted:The clutch point should not be in almost all the way in near the handgrip. It should have about a quarter inch worth of slack in the bar and then engage almost immediately. If you're out of adjustment at the top, adjust it at the bottom, near where it goes into the engine case. Thanks chaps. I'll have a fiddle with it this weekend but if problems persist, I'll be back here...
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May 14, 2009 08:20
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8ender mentioned in his epic restoration thread that he used solder to seal a crack in his carbs' overflow pipes. I have some experience with soldering electronics. I'm curious if the process is the same, and if the materials and tools are the same. I assume at least the solder is of a different type. Also, what other kind of applications does this have? And what limitations can I expect? Solder is not recommended for soldering electronics in vehicles because it tends to fail under vibration.
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May 14, 2009 10:19
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darknrgy posted:8ender mentioned in his epic restoration thread that he used solder to seal a crack in his carbs' overflow pipes. I have some experience with soldering electronics. I'm curious if the process is the same, and if the materials and tools are the same. I assume at least the solder is of a different type. Also, what other kind of applications does this have? And what limitations can I expect? Solder is not recommended for soldering electronics in vehicles because it tends to fail under vibration. Actually I'd love to hear everyone elses opinion on this as well. The solder is currently holding out just fine on one carb. The other I don't think I completely sealed the crack as its had a slow leak since I put them back together. Thank god for vacuum petcocks. Also it was just regular old electronics solder. One thing going for anti vibration is that the carbs are suspended between the two rubber intake boots, so it doesn't move around a lot.
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May 14, 2009 12:06
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Nerobro posted:I'd first take a look at your jetting. I could be a bit lean, but it does pull very well. It's just that the "whoa!" push comes so late in the rev band it only lasts for a little second before you have to shift. Also, I synced up my carbs today.  Went with the Carbtune + Carbtool which I don't regret for a second, couldn't have done it properly without it. Didn't get it perfectly perfect, but very good. It was indeed off, but not by much. Idles much smoother, will try a ride in a sec. Pics/video clip later.
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May 14, 2009 12:46
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