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Uncle Ivan posted:The carbs are completely 100% clean inside and out, I don't remember what the jets are, but the bike was running 6 months ago on the same carbs, so those probably wouldnt be preventing it from running. Here's what happened today: Second, if you did remove them, what did you set them to? Have you checked the condition of your intake boot o-rings? You should set your valves on the loose side. If you set them tight you're dancing on the edge of burning them. That's very, very bad. It sounds to me like your jetting is both rich and lean. Chairon posted:Okay, so I got a 1991 Suzuki GS500 sitting in front of the shed right now. It runs! Time to get cleaning. :-) Nerobro fucked around with this message at 20:14 on May 17, 2009 |
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May 17, 2009 20:11
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Nerobro posted:First, I don't believe you cleaned the carbs. Did you remove the pilot screws? They are on TOP of the carb, and i'm not talking the brass pilot jets. Yes, I completely pulled everything apart, dipped and sprayed everything. The screws were set to about 1 turn out before I took them apart, so that's what I have them set to right now. There are no intake boot o-rings on this year 750, so I'm good there. I checked the valves today, they were all in spec except for two, which I set to .005, which is the loose end of the tolerance. Checked compression, got 145-150 psi on all 4. So I'm down to fuel or spark. Any easy way of testing to see if gas is getting to the cylinder? The idea of putting a few drops of gas in the spark plug hole doesn't appeal to me.
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May 17, 2009 21:41
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^^ Petcock screen plugged? What's the inside of the tank like? Is there an inline filter installed?
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May 17, 2009 21:52
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Bucephalus posted:^^ Petcock screen plugged? What's the inside of the tank like? Is there an inline filter installed? I'm running fresh gas in from an auxiliary tank. All four float bowls are filling. I think the main tank is fine, but I'll tackle any petcock problems after I get the b ike running.
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May 17, 2009 22:15
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Uncle Ivan posted:I'm running fresh gas in from an auxiliary tank. I shouldn't have assumed otherwise. Apologies. Sorry I can't help, I'm the furthest thing from a carb guru. Sounds like fuel/air, though. Air filter clean? Removed? Mice?
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May 17, 2009 22:29
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Nerobro posted:Well, just cuz you can. Go ahead and adjust the idle. It sounds to me like you've got a major intake boot leak. Try replacing the o-rings behind them first. Also, it sounds like the carbs need cleaning. The bike is reving to 6k on the pilot circuts, and as soon as you open the throttle it dies. That indicates there's likely crap in the main jet circuit. I was afraid of that. I might try cleaning them, but my dads best friend(Whose been a mechanic longer then i've been alive) says he'll take a look at it and pretty much get it running perfectly. He might not even charge me, he didn't when he changed the brake drums on my Jeep. THen again my dad doesn't charge him for any plumbing or anything. Thanks though!
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May 17, 2009 23:19
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^^^I'll second the intake boot O ring replacement. Your bike will do screwed up things with leaky intake boots. Run fine, then miss when riding, then not idle, then stumble, then run fine again. I couldn't even get it to change by spraying the boots with carb cleaner. I was chasing my tail until I changed the O rings and the bike is the happiest it's been since I've owned it.
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May 18, 2009 00:50
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Bucephalus posted:I shouldn't have assumed otherwise. Apologies. Yep, it's a fuel air issue. I checked the voltage at the coils today, one coil was a little low, like 10.8, so I wiggled some of the connections around and now it's up to 12.4. I dropped like half a teaspoon of gas in each cylinder and it fired right up for a second. Pulled the carbs off and now I guess it's time to tear them apart again...
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May 18, 2009 01:00
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Wow, taking the carbs off was not as hard as I thought. Though, referring to the Intake boots! Click here for the full 640x480 image.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. Do either of these look bad? I don't know what a good one looks like. I don't see any huge cracks or anything.
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May 18, 2009 02:17
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If they're not cracked, they're probably fine. You should replace the o-rings.
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May 18, 2009 02:27
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Bucephalus posted:If they're not cracked, they're probably fine. You should replace the o-rings. Could you point out the o-rings, just so we're clear? I'm thinking it's the piece of rubber inbetween the outside and inside, am I right? Or am I missing something here? EDIT - Good, thank you! I just wanted to be sure. Chairon fucked around with this message at 03:04 on May 18, 2009 |
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May 18, 2009 02:43
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May 18, 2009 03:02
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Uncle Ivan posted:Yes, I completely pulled everything apart, dipped and sprayed everything. The screws were set to about 1 turn out before I took them apart, so that's what I have them set to right now. quote:There are no intake boot o-rings on this year 750, so I'm good there. quote:Checked compression, got 145-150 psi on all 4. So I'm down to fuel or spark. Any easy way of testing to see if gas is getting to the cylinder? The idea of putting a few drops of gas in the spark plug hole doesn't appeal to me. Chairon posted:Do either of these look bad? I don't know what a good one looks like. I don't see any huge cracks or anything. Yeah, your carb boot o-rings are so hard that they don't look like o-rings to you anymore. :-) you can just use normal o-rings to get the bike running. But normal o-rings do harden and do the same thing as what's on there. The proper o-rings are $1.50 or so from bikebandit. Spend $0.60 to get the bike running now, and order the right ones for when (not if) they fail again.
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May 18, 2009 04:52
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Nerobro posted:Yeah, your carb boot o-rings are so hard that they don't look like o-rings to you anymore. :-) you can just use normal o-rings to get the bike running. But normal o-rings do harden and do the same thing as what's on there. The proper o-rings are $1.50 or so from bikebandit. Spend $0.60 to get the bike running now, and order the right ones for when (not if) they fail again. Aww, you just had to say it. I just got done cleaning the carbs and putting everything back together. Put the last of my fresh gas in the tank and found out the battery was dead. So now I have to take it all apart again, rip out these o-rings and put it all back together. Again. Good, it looks like i'll have something to do tomorrow  But still, I just put in 15 hours today in this damned California heat, flying by the seat of my pants, I feel good.I'll see if Napa or someplace has the o-ring. Which brings me to my next question, as it's the next biggest part I want to tackle! Scored brake rotors. Safe or unsafe to ride on? According to my dad, keep in mind hes from the day when if something didn't work you MADE it work safe or not, it's not the worst thing you could so, it'll just eat up your brake pads really fast. I know I can get them resurfaced and forget about it, but i'd like to expand my knowledge.
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May 18, 2009 07:56
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Scored rotors aren't the end of the world - usually they'll flatten out over time, with usage. Warped rotors, on the other hand. 
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May 18, 2009 07:58
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Just bought a fully-functioning 1983 Yamaha XJ750K with 26,xxx miles off Craigslist for $350. Any quirks I should be aware of? It rides great and I already put 300 miles on it, which put to rest my fears that the seller was hiding something and was thus asking a low price. I'm also looking to put slightly lower handlebars on it, but not as low as Clubmans. Would Superbike bars a la a CB750 work? FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 16:12 on May 18, 2009 |
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May 18, 2009 16:08
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:
I have a question about bars too. If I bought some cheap clubman bars, or any sort of bars for that matter, is there any additional work needed aside from taking the stuff off the old bars? Is there any drilling or weird stuff like that you have to do to make your assemblies fit on the new bars?
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May 18, 2009 16:43
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wrong thread 
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May 18, 2009 16:46
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I have a question about bars too. If I bought some cheap clubman bars, or any sort of bars for that matter, is there any additional work needed aside from taking the stuff off the old bars? Is there any drilling or weird stuff like that you have to do to make your assemblies fit on the new bars? Sometimes you need to drill a small pilot hole, I tend to break off the locating tabs because I just really don't care. FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Just bought a fully-functioning 1983 Yamaha XJ750K with 26,xxx miles off Craigslist for $350. Any quirks I should be aware of? It rides great and I already put 300 miles on it, which put to rest my fears that the seller was hiding something and was thus asking a low price. Nice deal. Not aware of any unique quirks, but to answer your question: Handlebars are handlebars. Superbike bars tend to be an intermediate between the clubmans and the normal kind, so yeah, that should work without an issue.
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May 18, 2009 16:47
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Just bought a fully-functioning 1983 Yamaha XJ750K with 26,xxx miles off Craigslist for $350. Any quirks I should be aware of? Wow, what a great deal! If I recall right they have some pressure equalizing gallery between the intake manifolds which needs a special tool to block off for carb sync. Why doesn't the gallery help keep the carbs in sync? I don't know. I think it also is one of the many bikes with cam chain tensioner issues, albeit small ones. Loads of info here: http://xjbikes.com/
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May 18, 2009 17:01
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I have a question about bars too. If I bought some cheap clubman bars, or any sort of bars for that matter, is there any additional work needed aside from taking the stuff off the old bars? Is there any drilling or weird stuff like that you have to do to make your assemblies fit on the new bars? Yeah if you do a Google search for "replace motorcycle handlebars" or something similar you'll get a bunch of pictorial guides on how to do it. Some bikes route their control cables through the bars so you need to drill holes. Depends on the bike. Also, you'll probably have to end up cutting off your old grips if they have been glued on and just buying new ones. I had to when I put Clubmans on my 250.
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May 18, 2009 17:13
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Can't hurt to post this here too:quote:I have an 04 600 with about 14k miles. No recent maintenance, about 1000 miles since it got a rear tire and about 2k since a full service. No history of electrical problems, no new batteries, nothing. Posted this on the gixxer.com boards. Bike just flipped the gently caress out on me riding home from work today.
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May 18, 2009 17:33
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How's your battery? Bizzaro issues like that usually either mean a dead battery or a dying charging system. Are you getting good voltage while charging?
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May 18, 2009 17:41
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I'm on the possible dying battery boat too. The bike is old enough, and has enough miles that it could be time for a new battery.
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May 18, 2009 17:59
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I just took my new (to me) GS750 out for my first ride. There's quite a bit of oil leaking from the exhaust though. What would cause that, and is it any sort of an easy fix for someone with no mechanical experience?
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May 19, 2009 02:08
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Nerobro posted:1 turn sounds wrong. 1.5, 2.5... What sort of carbs? VM or CV? What year 750? Yep, you're right, it's a carb setup problem. It's a 1982 GS750, it has the rubber intake boots, they're old, but they're flexible enough that it shouldn't be a problem. Anyway, I figured out what the problem was today. I pulled the carbs to reclean everything and recheck the float levels, threw them back on. Also interestingly, one of the pilot jets was different from the others. The mains were all 130s, but none of the pilot jets had markings, so I don't know what they were. I was able to get the bike started today, it was stumbling around 1000 rpm for several minutes, warming up. I noticed that as time went on, the revs went up to a maximum of about 3000. I gave it some throttle, it revved to about 6000 then tried to die. Kept running at about 3000, sounding not too bad. After a minute, started dropping revs, sputtering, I added more fuel. As the fuel filled the float bowls, the idle went up to 3000, then dropped back to 1000, stumbling. I pulled off the air filters, the bike kept running. I'm going to recheck the float levels once I get a set of calipers, but they were pretty close to the spec of 22mm using a tape measure. So, basically, it looks like the jetting is catastrophically rich. Only part that doesn't really make sense is that the bike was running and idling pretty well 6 months ago, I rode it around until it stopped starting in the winter which prompted me to clean the carbs. I guess it's possible that the carbs were just so clogged to poo poo that it made a normally super rich condition into just the right mixture. The air filters are clean, so I'm pretty sure that's not the cause. Besides, it shouldnt keep running with the air filters off. It would be nice to find a set of carbs or a set of jets somewhere cheap. Also the needle doesn't look like the Dynojet needle that I have on my GS850, so I'm thinking that the needle here might not match the jet size (130 would correspond to the Dynojet stage 3 kit for the 1982 750) Anyone have old GS parts lying around?
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May 19, 2009 02:41
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orthod0ks posted:I just took my new (to me) GS750 out for my first ride. There's quite a bit of oil leaking from the exhaust though. What would cause that, and is it any sort of an easy fix for someone with no mechanical experience? Are you sure it's oil? There shouldn't be any oil coming from the exhaust. The GS750 is a four-stroke, so the oil should all be contained in the crankcase/valvetrain. If it were a two-stroke, a bit of oil in the exhaust would be normal. Check to make sure it's actually oil. If it's unburnt gasoline, it's just you running rich. If it's oil... I'm not sure how it could be, since oil should burn into clouds of smoke on combustion, unless there's a lot of it. Did you leave the choke on the entire time?
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May 19, 2009 02:49
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I'm no mechanic, but I'm pretty sure it's oil. It's black... I had to leave the choke open for a while to get it warmed up, but I was able to close it before I rode. I'm pretty sure it was coming out of the end of the exhaust and running back under it near the joint (pardon my lack of jargon) and dripping off there. Of course, if that doesn't make sense, I can take a better look at it tomorrow.
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May 19, 2009 02:57
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If it's coming out the end of the pipe, it is most likely soot mixed with condensed water. Feel it with your finger to see if it is at all viscous. It is possible that you have a separate oil leak that is running down onto the joint, but it's extremely unlikely that oil is flowing out of your exhaust in liquid form.
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May 19, 2009 03:10
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MrKatharsis posted:If it's coming out the end of the pipe, it is most likely soot mixed with condensed water. Feel it with your finger to see if it is at all viscous. Would that be black? I mean completely black... I'll take a closer look tomorrow. If it's just soot and water, is that normal? Edit: The exhaust also smokes quite a bit while the choke is out, but cleans up pretty well when it's closed.
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May 19, 2009 03:15
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orthod0ks posted:Would that be black? I mean completely black... I'll take a closer look tomorrow. If it's just soot and water, is that normal? Water + soot is fairly common, especially if that bike has a cat. Best way to tell is to hold a piece of paper under it and rev. Try and catch some of the liquid on the paper. If there are dark particles in clear liquid it's water + soot. If it just stains black it's oil.
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May 19, 2009 03:18
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Water + soot is fairly common, especially if that bike has a cat. Best way to tell is to hold a piece of paper under it and rev. Try and catch some of the liquid on the paper. If there are dark particles in clear liquid it's water + soot. If it just stains black it's oil. I'll try this tomorrow. What's a cat? Thanks for the help guys.
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May 19, 2009 03:20
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orthod0ks posted:I'll try this tomorrow. What's a cat? Thanks for the help guys. A cat is a catalytic converter. I have no idea if your bike has one at all. If I'm correct in my understanding; it takes some harmful gasses and can convert them to H20 or less harmful gasses.
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May 19, 2009 03:23
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:A cat is a catalytic converter. I have no idea if your bike has one at all. If I'm correct in my understanding; it takes some harmful gasses and can convert them to H20 or less harmful gasses. Oh yea, I think that's next to the flux capacitor. On a separate note, I'd like some inexpensive saddlebags (not $400 leather...) and replacement handlebar grips. Any suggestions on where to look for these?
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May 19, 2009 03:32
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orthod0ks posted:Oh yea, I think that's next to the flux capacitor. ere is a decent explanation of a cat: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalytic_converter
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May 19, 2009 03:57
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What happened to biekwiki.com? It was kind of helpful. Without it I may resort to asking massive amounts of stupid questions. I looked back a few pages and couldn't find anything discussing it. The OP still references it, but as far as I can tell it hasn't been up for months. Sorry if this is a re-question.
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May 19, 2009 08:34
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As far as I know its been down for months now.
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May 19, 2009 15:08
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Phat_Albert posted:As far as I know its been down for months now. If anyone still has the database laying around, I'll re-host it for free.
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May 19, 2009 15:20
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Could chain noise be mistaken for something that resembles an exhaust leak? I am hearing a pretty odd noise when wind noise doesnt overpower it at lower speeds, sounds almost like an exhaust leak. Before when I was using waxy type chain lube after I cleaned the chain it was making a sizzling type noise. Cleaned it again a couple of weeks ago and switched to gear oil. Right now I get a sticky/raspy/exhaust leakish sound, goes away if I hold in the clutch (take load off the chain) and coast, comes back the second you release the clutch. I have checked the bolts on the exhaust side and checked with my nose for any leaks, didnt find any. Dont really have much experience with noise chain. When a chain is making noise from being clean or being worn, can it go away when not under any load?
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May 19, 2009 22:35
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dietcokefiend posted:When a chain is making noise from being clean or being worn, can it go away when not under any load? Sounds like the clutch basket to me. How many miles on it?
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May 20, 2009 00:29
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